Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

kiawah

I personally don't leave any error codes on, for two reasons. First is that whatever is causing the first error code could be causing further damage (some error codes are more damaging that other error codes). For instance if your engine is running lean you can burn valves, if it is running too rich you can damage your cat converter. But the second reason is if you leave the light on and by some chance you have a 2nd problem surface, you will not know about it (since the light is already lit), and that problem could be worse than the first.

Any suggestions?? Yes, get it fixed.

accordv61

thanks, kiawah

user777

would 1457 be thrown by a gas cap that wasn't on tight? perhaps the person should try putting the cap on tight or getting a new cap ($20) and putting that on tight (at least 3 clicks) and going for several start cycles for a few days to see if the light goes off?

i had a CEL thrown in our ODY and it turned out to be a leaky down-tube from the filler neck to the tank which the dealer located. took two visits to locate it but they did using a smoke machine.

geesh, it seems to me they are tossing everything at it in hopes of catching the true culprit, but not very selectively.

it seems they are forcing the customer to pay for stuff probably not needed. is that your read as well?

accordv61

777, that's true, it's a good idea to invest $20 for that first. And I am pretty sure my cap is tight, i tried many clicks and drived for many trips.

user777

emissions check: the vehicles with the on board diagnostics don't have to be placed on a dynomometer and taken to speed, they just check what the system has stored for codes related to emissions, but they also check the gas cap for leakage.

the price of getting a new OEM cap and slapping it on is even cheaper than an emissions check which is what $25 or $35.

the $20 may save the day... yeah, that is the route i'd go first.

then if the light didn't go out after a few days with several start cycles, i suppose i'd call an independent shop dealing with hondas regarding the code and inquire how they would diagnose and fix. i'd tell them what the dealer wanted.

also, not every dealer is going to charge the same amount for service or attack a problem in the same way.

good luck.

zakiman

My 2002 Accord has 124k miles and during the last oil change it pointed out to me that there could be a possible rear main seal leak and they also put a possible oil pan gasket leaking as well. I changed the oil pan gasket as well as the valve cover gaskets last year, so maybe the dealer is lying about the oil pan gasket leaking!
Anyway, my question is : can I nurse the rear sel leak until next year when I plan to get rid of the car? Based on my testing it looks like I am loosing around 1 pint of oil every 4000 miles. Does this seem like an insignificant leak? I know I know a leak is a leak but if I have to fix this then I am looking at $800 to $900 to fix it.
When I look under the car after I get home (45 miles commute), I see a drop collected at the bottom of the engine right where the crankshaft is connecting to the flywheel and clutch system ( based of my observation from the top of the engine too).
I know that oil leaks are hard to pinpoint most of the time, but are there more seals in this engine that could be leaking as well? I am afraid that even if I fix the rear seal leak, I may still see other leaks elsewhere.
Thanks for any input on this issue and I am very disappointed at Honda because I thought this engine could last at least 200K with no major problems!!
Lastly, should I trust the dealer assessment or should I get another opinion about the leaks?

sincerely,
Zak

elroy5

The main seal leak is not that bad. It will make your engine a mess, but as long as your not loosing too much oil it will not hurt anything. I would get it fixed simply because I am picky about having a clean engine and don't want oil dripping on the driveway. If it doesn't bother you, you can let it slide. Just keep a close eye on the oil level. Hope this helps, and good luck.

zakiman

Thanks [elroy5] for your input... is it worth fixing at this point if I only plan to keep the car for another year or 1 1/2 yr max? just curious. and is this just an expensive dirty job period?

thx
zak

elroy5

In a perfect world, your engine would not leak a drop of oil. Many many cars out there on the road have leaking main seals, which is why you see so many oil spots in parking lots. Some of them have been leaking for 5 years or more. If you would rather not spend the $$ to fix it, keep a closer eye on the oil level, and you should be fine for a while. Of course if you did have all the leaks fixed, and kept the engine clean, you could probably get more $$$ for it when you do decide to sell. It's your call.

smadpi

I bought a 98 Accord coupe last year, and it currently has 140,000 miles. This past winter it would not start in sub-zero temperatures (a couple weeks straight during Jan/Feb in Minnesota). It would not start with a battery jump. The only way I got it to start again was to take out the battery, let it thaw out in my apartment, charge it, put it back in, and then press down on the gas pedal as I cranked the ignition. I had the battery/alternator/electrical checked, and the mechanic found no problems.

In addition to this, the car has stalled out on me 4 times: 3 times in winter, and once last week (in 70 degree temperatures). It usually happens as I'm pulling into a parking spot, though it's happened at stop lights, too. The lights go out slowly, all of my warning lights go on (including the door ajar lights -- weird), and I lose power steering/breaks. The car won't start up again unless I give tons of gas.

I've tried running an error code reader to see if anything's been stored in the computer, but nothing comes up. I thought this was just a cold-weather problem, but last week's stall-out disproved that. In any case, I'm dreading the onset of winter with this car. According to Honda.com, the previous owner had the ignition switch fixed under recall, so I don't know what this could be. The car checked out fine with my mechanic when I bought it last summer.

Any ideas on what this could be?

rhuberty

I have a '98 Accord with 4 cylinder and about 125,000 miles. Several months back error code 420 showed up indicating catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 below threshhold. After resetting the light the code did not show up again for almost 30 days. Now I have that code again and code 1457 which appears to indicate some kind of EVAP leak. Any help would be much appreciated as I can't afford a dealer trip.

raider24

more in likely its the ignition switch 98 only had problems with main relay on two door v6 models. the recall on switch should apply to all 98 accords

raider24

sounds like it may have a coil going out. this was common on v6 accords of the same year

raider24

for dtc p1457 i would check the gas cap.for p0420 i would first check for exhaust leaks before the cat. if no leaks are found the cat needs replaced

raider24

I am a master honda tech at a dealership and usually the two way bypass valve is what causes 1457

kiawah

Check for voltage drops across your main + and - power cables. You could have a cable gone bad, usually with corrosion up inside the cable, which adds a resistance to the cable. When you get current flow thru the cable, the resistance drops the voltage down to lower than normal levels. If you have a resistance, the higher the current drop the more voltage drops. (V = R x I, where I is current).

Start with the battery, and measure the voltage of the battery with the lights on (to draw at least some power thru the circuits). Use a digital voltmeter to do this. Lets say you have 13.4 volts there. Now measure the voltage from the + battery terminal, to the engine block. This added the - battery cable into your circuit. See if the voltage dropped.

Do a similar thing with the + cable that runs to the starter (careful with poking around with a voltmeter on the starter), from the battery - terminal to the starter lug.

Common on older cars to have corrosion, usually up inside the connectors on either end of the cable.

The fix is to either replace the cable, or if the cable is long enough and the problem is at the end, cut off the connector and the bad end of the cable, and put on new connectors. Most cables are custom though and just the right length so that might not be do-able.

If this voltage is all good, then I would find a way to set up the voltmeter so it is monitoring your fusebox voltage while you are driving. I have done this with a couple short wires attached to a fused circuit. Pick a circuit that is a 'switched' circuit, which is something that works only when the ignition key is on. This will catch a problem if it is related to the ignition switch, or one of the main fusible links on the main power feed to the fusebox from the battery.

Hard to diagnose your stalling problem over the net, but you need to start eliminating potential problem areas, and starting with knowledge that your electrical is sound is a key step.

rhuberty

Thanks so much for the advice. If I choose to run the car without replacing the converter is there any harm being done to the vehicle? I just don't have that kind of money now.

Any way to remove the converter and still have the car run properly as well as eliminate the error code? I know the o2 sensor will still be looking for a removed converter.

doublecrest

Did you fix the problem?

My 2002 Ex-leather got the exact same problem recently, right after my extended warranty was expired after 5 years.

andrew27

My 2000 Accord suddenly fail to start completely. The car seems completely dead. Turn the key, the car seems not even try to start. Clock reset. Remote keyless entry not working. No head-light. The inside reading-lamp still dim, though. I tried jumping start and it doesn't help.(So it rule out the batter/alternator problem.).

Any help/suggestion please. My car is at inconvinient location to tow.

kiawah

Your battery is probably soo dead, that a battery jump won't help. Probably has a dead cell or two.

Put a digital voltmeter on the battery, and see if it is 13+ volts. If not, your battery is the culprit....go get a new one.

thegraduate

My 1996 Accord was battery tested at wal-mart and came back with a voltage in the mid 12s. I always thought 14v was about right, but this battery isn't even two years old!

andrew27

Actually my batter is replaced less than one year. And I hooked up with another car when starting.
I doubt it is due to battery but tommorrow I will dry voltmeter.
Any other suggestion?
Thanks!

thegraduate

If the battery IS in fact drained after one year, I'd have your alternator checked.

kiawah

Yes, a number of things to look at.

Each cell in a battery is 2.2 Volts, and there are 6 cells so you should have 13.2 + volts. If the battery checks out good, then I would suspect that you have corrosion in either your positive or ground battery cable. If you have a digital voltmeter, I can tell you how you can check to see if that is your problem. I've written the instructions previously in one of these Edmunds forums, but can do it again.

You can get your battery and alternator checked for free at one of the chain autoparts stores (Pepboys, autozone, etc), and they will do a load test on the battery and alternator to see if the alternator is putting out what it needs to in both voltage and current, and that the battery is holding the charge.

With a good battery and alternator, and then known good main battery cables, you then have a main fusible link (a hunk of metal sized to burn at typically 100amps or more). Since mentioned that you have a dome light but it is weak, I don't believe it's fried....but it could be corroded as well.

Corrosion in your battery cables in main fusible link, creates resistance in the circuit. What happens with this resistance, is that in electricity Voltage = Current x Resistance. So with a resistance in the wire, when you put current thru it, you will get a voltage drop across that resistance. That voltage drop on the other end, will mean that the devices that need the full 13volts to run, will get less than that and may not work.

From what I think you wrote your symptoms to be, you have lost the bulk of your electricity so it sounds like a battery cell has gone bad, or you have a very bad case of corrosion on terminals and/or up inside the sheathing of the cables.

There's other things it could be as well, but those are normally the culprits.

andrew27

kiawah, Thanks a lot.
A silly question, I thought, if the battery is bad, if I use jump cable to connect to another car when I try starting engine, the engine should start. From what you said, seems that is not true, why?
How do I use digital voltmeter to check cable corrosion?

Thanks!
Andrew

kiawah

The analogy I'll give you is this. Your spouse could try to move a boulder in the back yard, and determine she is too weak and calls you in to help...the big brute that you are. You go over, reach down, and give it a big lift....but it is too heavy and even you can't life it. If a battery has a dead cell (or two), depending on the quality and length of your jumping cables, and the quality of the good battery/alternator, and both sets of car cables....you may or may not be able to start it. I have an excellent set of very thick cables which will jump almost anything. I also have a cheap set (much thinner and easier to handle) which will only jump some vehicles.

Check your battery and alternator output. I'll search the forums to see if I can find my previous post which explained how to check for corrosion in the cables. I can't do that today as have other commitments.

kiawah

Andrew27,
Found the previous post in the electronic gremlins forum

Checking your battery to engine cables

blufz1

Guys. Thinking about changing the original platinum spark plugs on my 02 v6 now at 85 k. Anyone notice any benefit of pre 105k spark plug change? That rear cylinder bank looks like no fun. Comments?

thegraduate

In my 1996 Accord I had the plugs changed after about 80k on set number 2 (change at 88k, and then about 164k-167k, not positive of exact time) and noticed extra midrange power (climbing hills at 40 MPH in 3rd was a lot peppier, important since I don't have VTEC in my LX Accord).

You have two extra plugs though - more cost. It's a toss-up vote from me; I'm not sure! I think my car wants plugs more often than newer ones.

blufz1

Thanks,Grad. Hope school is going well.

thegraduate

Eh, just got through my midterms. Nothing too terrible this time!

Sorry I'm not more knowledgeable on the spark plug issue.

corkscrew

Improper installation of plugs is one of the greatest single causes of unsatisfactory plug performance. Always clean plug seats and torque to specs. This will insure heat transfer and provide a tight seal.
Oil burning is identified by wet sludgy deposits, rich mixture by dry black fluffy deposits, overheated plugs by blistered or burned electrodes (caused by overheating or improper timing).
Normal plugs look rusty-brown to grayish-tan.

blufz1

No problem,man. Stay safe.

blufz1

Thanks for the info. I'm in no rush to install. The more I look at the rear bank of cylinders the less bad they look to access. Still no fun anticipated.

elroy5

The more I look at the rear bank of cylinders the less bad they look to access.

The swivel attachment for your ratchet is usually very helpful for hard to reach places. Have fun.

blufz1

Thanks,E. I'm going to make sure I can do it before I try it. I don't know how careful the dealer techs are,if they torque the plugs or just throw them in. I'd prefer the plugs be torqued properly to 13.

rmk818

Please help!!! Had my timing belt and internal filters changed, and my transmission flushed (60K Maint) on my 98ex accord (not by the dealer) and now when I accelerate, the cars engine seems to be louder than before I had the maintenance done. Also, seems to have an oil burning smell inside. Is this normal or is there something I should be concerned about?

corkscrew

Go back to the garage and voice your concerns. Assuming the oil pressure light goes off after starting the car, oil burning smell could be:
Oil filter not installed tight enough or an oil spill on the engine when the old filter was removed.

blufz1

Check the oil level on the dipstick. Check all the fluid levels. Most of us just do a drain and fill on the transmission not a flush. You trans will shift better,longer if you use Honda brand atf.

isieze

I own a 1998 accord which I bought brand new. I use my care to drive about 500 miles every week. Recently I suffered a punctured radiator, which I replaced. At the same time did some work on Timing Belt, and gasket cover. I started experiencing overheating whenever I slowed down after driving for over an hour or so. Last week I changed the Gasket head and it has not solved the problem. I took it to the dealer and they could not find any problem. I am now about to contact the third mechanic in two months. Any assistance would be appreciated.

kiawah

Did you put in the correct radiator?

I read here not too long ago, don't remember which forum, where the poster finally figured out his overheating. When he had replaced the radiator, he had the wrong sized part. It fit, but had less fins that was supposed to.

elroy5

Here's a link for some troubleshooting. Hope it helps you.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html

isieze

I can not say if the correct radiator was put in, but it is worth checking out. Thanks you very much.

rmk818

To All...Thanks for the advice. Took the car back and they are looking at it again without hassel. Had the car smog checked (CA requirement) and the tech said that it was burning rich (still with in standard but very high). The smell was what I believe to be the richness in the fuel (burning eyes; headache). So my assumptions on the car being quieter or at least them same level of noise is correct? The engine noise level seems to really get louder when the car reaches 3,000 rpms with a slight vibration in the pedals but feels and sounds normal at idle.

notthereyet

98 Accord Ex V6. Auto. 80K miles. Recently noticed both cooling fans behind radiator turning on when car is started with cold engine in the morning. Both fans run constantly. Temp gauge runs normal. Checked several fuses, none blown. Switched Circuit breakers (is this what they are called?) Fans run. Disconnected a sensor on the engine next to radiator output hose (believing this was temp sensor but unsure) - fans still run. No CEL, no MIL. I can disconnect plugs on fan and they WILL stop working. I am guessing either a bad sensor or bad wire. But which one? What should I test next? Is there a schematic or diagram I can locate to narrow or solve problem? :confuse: Suggestions appreciated.

mrbill1957

If you have the A/C on and/or have the system set for "defroster on", the fans will run. The fans need to run continuously any time the A/C compressor is running.

Mrbill

bfyerxa

The one time I forget to lock my 02 SE and some *&*&*&*& yanks my aftermarket deck (guy hit 10 cars in our area in one night :mad: ). But the big problem is the damage. He removed the two bottom screws holding the center console but not the third one behind the clock. So they simply yanked away and busted the mounting tab from the main dash. Any ideas to fix? Super glue it back on? The center console piece not only bolts on but there are ~6 clips as well so this is not a critical mount point. Anyone else with this problem? Man am I mad!

activex111

Hi,
I need to replace two broken engine mounts on my 99 V6 4dr accord. I got an estimate of $320 from a mechanic who is known for honda repairs (not dealer).
Can someone please let me know if $320 is a reasonable cost (it seems high to me) thanks

blufz1

Check the dealer price.

notthereyet

Checked A/C. System Off. Engine Cold. Fans remain On. Neither A/C nor defroster are on. Turning those systems on or off did not change the fans engagement. Checked vent mode and other modes in On position and Off position. Fans always On. Also, Overflow coolant is above minimum at cold temps. I would check continuity at fan plugs, but I do not know what to look for. Your suggestion is appreciated and more are welcome if you have the time. Thanks,
(still) NotThereYet