Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

dea8805

I figured it out. Its on the passenger side under the air intake to the throttle body. Had to remove the plastic intake pipe in order to see it. Remove one bolt that holds it on (12mm) pull it out. disconnect the leads, put the new one in and bingo - fixed everything. :shades:

elroy5

Glad you got it dea8805.

agirlshonda2nv

I have a 1999 accord ex. I recently replaced the slave cylinder and the master clutch cylinder. There was clutch fluid leaking out from where the hydrolic line goes into the master cylinder. I got that taken care of. Now it looks like it's leaking out from underneath the master clutch cyl. Can you give me any suggestions, hints, anything?!?! i've been working on this darn car for 3 days now. Thanks so much.
Bekah

Mr_Shiftright

your post is confusing. First you say you replaced the slave and clutch master. Then you say you fix the leak from the "master" and then you say the clutch master is leaking.

You need to clarify a bit for us.

Are you also talking about the BRAKE master cylinder?

When you say "leak", do you mean it's dripping from where the line screws into the master? Does it drip by itself or only when you pump it?

krimsontide1

I've had a couple of instances over the past month where my 1998 Honda Accord LX 4cylinder automatic shut down completely (while sitting at a redlight for instance). I would crank it back up and drive away like nothing happened. I'm driving today and it actually shut down twice while I'm doing 75 on the freeway. It did immediately regain itsself both times without me having to pull over (much like a speed chip would do). Then a few miles up the road I begin to smell that something is burning. Then I actually see smoke rising slowly from my steering column. Engine temp is fine. I immediately pulled over, turn the car off, let it cool down, then finished the rest of my trip a few miles up the road no problem. What is causing this? Other facts that may be factors; my car also makes a rattle when accelerating as if there may be a problem with the exhaust system. I have a slow oil leak. I just changed the oil. I just hit 150,000 miles.

dgrge

I have an 01 Accord and the clock has begun acting up. The display goes half blank and the time changes, sometimes while driving and sometimes while the car is off. Wondering if anyone has had similar experience and if it was the clock or an electrical problem. What does the clock cost to replace? Any help is appreciated.

elroy5

Your problem could be related to the ignition switch. Click on this link http://techauto.bravehost.com/, then click on ignition switch at the left and symptoms at the top. Does any of this sound familiar? I'm not sure, but there may have been a recall on this. Good luck.

snuke

The display on my clock of my 2000 Accord completely went blank this year. My mechanic replaced the clock battery which took less than 5-minutes and I was not charged for it.

austinman7

I've just purchased a 2000 Accord LX coupe with 113,000 miles on it and have no service records on the car. Is there any way to tell if the timing belt has been replaced?

I see the owner's manual says to replace timing belt and balancer belt at 105,000, and to check the water pump. Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the water pump anyway, since I understand it's hard to get to, but easy to do it when replacing the timing belt.

Thanks.

blufz1

Replace the belt and the pump simultaneously.$850 at my H dealer in Dallas. Call the orig. owner and see if work was done at a dealer. They can just reprint the services performed.

siadn

I recently had my front brake pads and rotors replaced. However not too long after driving I noticed that when I am coming to a stop while on the brakes there is a grinding sound. I took it back to Merchants and the guy told me he checked the brakes again and said it it not the brakes. Now he is saying I would have to do a different diagnostic. I am not paying them anymore money and gonna take my car for a second opinion.

Could this be something else besides the brakes. This was not making the noise before I had them replaced.

austinman7

Well, I finally found out that the previous owners didn't do the timing belt replacement, so that's No. 1 on my list. Got a quote of $700 from my Honda dealer for timing belt, balancer belt, accessory belts, and water pump.

They may want to drain and replace the fluids in the brake and power steering systems, also. I understand Honda corporate has recommended against flushing these systems out because the pressure of the flush can force tiny metal flakes into places they would never otherwise go, leading to premature wear. The standard "drain and replace" is recommended, even though dealers like the flush because it's easy profit. Sound about right?

Don't know if the same idea applies to replacing the coolant.

blufz1

Sounds right. I'd replace the coolant and change the oil,too. Look on the net to see if you can get a service special for them to match or a discount coupon.

LanceL99

This same thing just happened to my sister today in her 99 Accord LX 4-cyl automatic. No smoke from the steering column, but it also didn't immediately restart. I had her tow it to the Honda dealer (90K miles). She was able to restart the car using the extra key, which she happened to have on her, but then it conked out again a few minutes later. Have you figured out what was wrong with yours?

elroy5

Probably the ignition switch.

dhski04

When I am driving at slower speeds (under 30), I can hear a metallic rattling coming from what sounds like the front left. It generally happens when I am turning left or reversing to the right. I read some other postings that suggested a bad CV joint might be to blame, but I looked at the boots underneath on both sides (and inner and outer) and saw no signs of a leak or break. Any other ideas?

kiawah

You don't need a leak or brake in the rubber, for the CV joint to be bad.

elroy5

The CV joint will make a sort of "clicking" sound, with the wheel turned, at low speed (easier to hear it with the window open). If you are getting a "rattling" sound, it could be suspension components or body parts.

kott

I think you need to stop going to Merchants they are crooks, especially if you are at the Warrenton shop.
Try Joe's, if you can get in or Striblings good luck.

stuartf

My parents drive very little, like maybe 10-15 miles a week at this point. I want to get their car services but not sure what I should have done, given the age vs. mileage question.

I am thinking change the fluids (oil, brake, coolant, tranny), cehck the t-belt and serpertine belt, change the air filter and the climate control filter. Other suggestions?? (They are still running the original tires, but I don't think the car ever goes over 30 MPH these days.

Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

I think I'd put that engine on a synthetic oil diet, since this will lessen the possibility of engine sludge. That poor engine will never get warm, and also fuel dilution of the oil might be a problem (running too rich a mixture at start-up but not driven enough to burn the fuel residue out of the oil).

mk1371

I have had the same issue. It happened once then went away. Now its back and worse. I've found that when I have the engine at higher RPM's, most of the time the lights go out. Did you find out what the problem was with your issue? It sounds very similar to the one I am having. Please let me know.
Thanks.

user777

it's possible at higher rpms, vibration is more, and something is loose.

but i'm thinking something else.

i'm not an expert on alternators, but if the diode / regulator assembly on the thing was bad, and it wasn't clamping voltage output to the proper upper range value - 14 or so volts), then possibly it's over-volting some ckt that is shutting down to protect itself when the rpms and resulting voltage get too high.

first things first, take your intensity adjustment and run it back and forth a few times to clear any debris that might be making that ckt a flakey.

then, if that didn't help, i'd go to an autozone and have them put the alternator and battery under test.

the other possibility is the battery is going and unable to aid in the filtering of the output of the alternator. or, possibly, you got a loose battery cable.

either way, a possible cause for burning up bulbs as they don't have their own voltage regulation that circuit boards would probably have to save them from big transients when the vehicle starts up or shuts down.

toyoman1

I have noticed in the last couple of days whenever I shut the engine off on the car it stops really abruptly, evem my wife asked if I noticed it and I hadnt said anything to her. It also shudders pretty darn bad like you can feel the whole engine wobble under the hood as soon as you turn the car off. Anyone know what this might be!? I was thinking motor mounts. Car has 77k miles. Thanks and Happy Motoring... :confuse:

havasu2322

Did you ever do the maintance/cleaning of the ports on the EGR Valve? If so how hard was it?

havasu2322

I recently bought a 1998 EX and the check engine light came on after running test, we bought a new EGR Valve but my husband was thinking of cleaning ports first to see if they may be clogged, anyone done this procedure? What if any special tools are required or is there a kit that can be bought? Thnaks

elroy5

I have never done it myself. I have a link with a how to (clean egr ports) with pictures. But it is for the 95 model Accord engine. From what I here, the engines are not the same as the 98. Here's the link, if you want to take a look at it. You may have to copy and paste the link. http://members.troublecodes.net/hondadude/95AccordEGR.htm

I don't know how different the engines are. Probably has something to do with Vtec, or DOHC. Maybe there is a how-to for the 98 Accord engine on the net somewhere. Do a search, and you might get lucky. Good luck, and Happy Hondaing.

themzcman

I have the exact problem right now with my honda accord. I have an 98 EX v.6, which dumps on me all the time. I have replaced the ignition, distributor and cap, and now I am focusing on the EGR. All to no avail. Not sure where to go from here. By the way, the egr was recalled, however the dealership won't honor the recall... 8 yrs. 88,000 miles. Not sure where to go from here... love the car and performance... but I hate this problem. By the way, mine started roughly the same time yours did. Wild. :mad:

havasu2322

We decided instead of trying to do it ourselves to take it to the dealer and have the ports cleaned out, it runs about $200.00 and takes about 2 hours they say, we have already replaced the valve and now we have been told we probably should have cleaned it first, actually we just bought the valve and are gonna put it on ourselves ($135) dealer wants and additional $250. I will let you know how that goes.

n_p2010

I have a 99 Honda Accord LX 4 door and on the dashboard the CAR DOOR AND TRUNK lights are constantly on and I had it diagnose twice and it showed no problem with the wiring. So if anyone have, had this problem before or can assist me with this problem it would be a big help THANX.

P.S. my dome lights are working properly, when you open the door it turns on and when you close the door it turns off. its just on the dashboard the lights are on.

user777

got me stumped. i very much doubt they ran multiple conductors to each switch at each location for both dash indication and center-dome on (don't have schematics with me), so this condition *might* suggest a problem with the dashboard assembly or the module that drives those lamps...

toyoman1

Could be a sensor in the trunk or rear of the car. Check to see if the auto has been in a collision if it is used...

honda00

Replace the timing belt or not? I own a 2000 Accord(4cyl) which is 7 years old and has 82.5K miles on it. I'm trying to decide if I should pay the $650 to have the timing belt replaced. I plan on buying the new Accord in the Spring or Summer of 2008.

The manual recommends changing the belt at 7 years or 100K miles. My car will be 8 years old and have approx. 93K miles when I trade it in next Spring/Summer.

Am I playing with fire trying to get to 8 years without changing the timing belt? I'm just having a tough time spending the $650 when I know I'm only going to have the car for less than a year.

snuke

I have a 2000 V6 Accord. My mechanic shop, which only services Hondas & Acuras, has been in business for over 20 yrs. and who has customers that love them due to their excellent service and reasonable prices, recommends changing the timing belt at 90,000 miles. I am approaching 75,000 miles so I have more time. However, your question is more of a judgment call with a decision only y-o-u can really make. I suggest going with your gut feeling.

carkrazy2

Hey Everyone! I have a problem with my 99 accord sedan its the EX model, the remote will not unlock the car it will only pop the trunk and make the lights flash! Is there a problem with my car or the remote? Please Help Soon

elroy5

The lights flashing, and the trunk button working, tells me the transmitter is working. So the door actuator would be a suspect at this point. Testing should be done before replacing. Good luck

dgrge

Have you been able to find out what is causing this noise? I have an 01 Accord and gett a smiliar noise when going over bumps going straight. I've had the dealer check it out and they think a strut might be starting to go bad.

carkrazy2

Thanks, Could anyone out there tell me how to replace a door actuator for my 99 Accord EX. I would take it to a dealer but there are none around where i live and the dealership that i got it from doesn't have a service department so could someone Please Please Help Me!!

elroy5

All I can do is suggest that you get a repair manual for your car. Autoparts stores have Haynes or Chilton manuals for probably under $20. Definitely worth the price, IMO. It may help you again, if you have other problems with your car. I always get a shop manual for my own car, but it's an 03 (7th generation), and not the same as your car (6th gen). Good luck.

ouyangl

I bought my 2000 Honda Accord LX new in 2000, after a couple of years the gas paddle started getting sticky when you start to car, after you first push, then it went back to normal.

I went back to the Honda dealer and was told it was a common easy problem and they cleaned something for free as it was still under warranty.

Now it is getting more frequent as it is getting older and Honda dealer would charge to do the easy cleanup, and they won't tell what the problem is.

Does anybody know what the problem is and where to clean so I won't have to bother to make appointment and pay to do this easy job?

Thanks in advance.

johneb18

I would like to know about this "prognosis" also... thanks!

mazer

A few months ago, the OEM security system of my '98 coupe started going off at seemingly random intervals for no reason. When I lock the doors, within a few minutes or a few hours, the car's alarm will begin sounding, lights flashing, the whole bit.

I inspected all the door connection points, trunk latch, hood latch, and everything looks okay. The battery checked out as well.

I had the starter replaced about 2 weeks before the problem started (at a Firestone/Bridgestone service center) and wondered if that might have something to do with the problem. I took the car to a Firestone, where they could not immediately identify a problem. They refused to look at it any further because "they don't do electrical wiring" (except new starters, apparently).

I then took it to a Honda dealer, where they also could not immediately identify a problem. Further investigation (inspecting every single switch, wire, etc.) was going to cost $300-- and that was just to locate the problem, not fix it.

I took the car back home and pulled the fuse for the horn. So the alarm still goes off, but it doesn't wake anybody up, and the lights stop flashing after 3 minutes or so. It makes me nervous to not have a car horn, but I can't leave the car unlocked (I live in the city). Any ideas as to what might be causing the problem or who might be able to fix it?

toyoman1

Hey I was wondering if anyone could tell me if fuel injector cleaner is safe for my car. I have the 3.0L V6 and I was wondering if it is safe what is the best brand for my honda. thanks

accordv61

Dear Everyone, couple of days ago, the engine service light is on, my mechanic help me remove the code and told me come back if the light is on again (he told me some sensor 's problem, not clear). Today the light comes back, so drive to Autozone, check it for free, the code says "XXX water pump" (sorry not familiar with cars). How many water pumps in a car? is that one close to the timing belt?

My millage is 86K, I want to drive for two more yrs to get the timing belt changed. If I don't want to change the water pump, will it damage my engine? What should I do ?

Appreciate for any suggestions. Thanks again.

elroy5

I don't think there is any code that would specifically point to the water pump? The pump is not electrical, and there are no sensors that would get a code from the water pump itself. You need to get this checked out, IMO.

accordv61

Then what's problem, I still remember the code checked by the Autozone guy: P1457

elroy5

P1457 = Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister System).

This has nothing to do with the water pump. Let me ask you a question. When you fill your gas tank do you stop when the station pump clicks off? or do you force more gas into the tank, and up the filler neck? Your evaporation canister may be overflowing with gas, when there should only be vapors in there.

accordv61

it stops automatically when the station pump clicks off, I always fill gas in this way.

elroy5

Maybe the canister has simply developed a leak. I doubt it would hurt anything, but I would still get it checked. Good luck with the car.

kiawah

suspect cracks in any of the rubber hoses in the system