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Homes are expensive here, too, but services are still reasonable, relatively speaking.
oh, gas was down to $2.96 yesterday by me. Not that I'm trying to rub it in or anything.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
From fill up to yellow warning light seems gather about 265 miles. This is stop and go, big city traffic, and that is with the AC on about 50% of the time.
What kind of mileage are you guys seeing?
I realize this reply is to a nearly two month old post, and, furthermore, that its current relevance is probably slightly less than that of a gnat on an elephant's behind, but, Honda's factory-fill oil is a conventional blend formulated by Nippon Oil of Japan. Nippon Oil currently contracts with toll-blenders in the U.S. to provide bulk motor oil to Honda's, Toyota's, and Hyundai's U.S. assembly plants. The oil company has broken ground to build its own blending plant in Alabama - due to go online in late 2007. In Japan, Nippon Oil sells a premium oil formulation to consumers under its "EOS" (I believe that's the spelling I read in an article in Lube Report) brand, and is considering doing the same in the U.S. once their U.S. blending plant is up and running). The Honda brand motor oil sold through dealerships (as well as Toyota brand motor oil sold through Toyota dealerships) is relabled ExxonMobil-made "Superflow" - a decent, serviceable, conventional blend that's fully API "SM" and ILSAC "GF-4" certified. The advantage to buying this $2.60/qt motor oil for $3.50-$3.75/qt at Honda dealerships is the warm & fuzzy feeling of seeing "Honda" prominently displayed on the label - the "empties" are a sure way to impress refuse disposal workers on trash day (if they can read...). Of course Honda recommends their own brand in their owner's manuals - the auto company is one more link in the distribution chain. Due-ichur-selphurz, if you wanna duplicate what's available through Honda dealers, just go to K-mart for Exxon Superflow 5W-20. However, if your main concern is a good, conventional, motor oil, just buy any established national brand SM/GF-4 5W-20. Specs trump brand. As to earlier posts about switching back from full synthetic to conventional motor oil, there is NO problem*. Just don't presume that any conventional motor oil formulation is suitable for oil change intervals beyond Honda's oil-life notification light.
*That wasn't always true. Very early attempts at marketing synthetic motor oils at the consumer level (which predated the introduction of Mobil 1 oils by at least a decade and a half) were based on oddball esters used for military jet aircraft engines, and which had very limited solubility in conventional motor oil that resulted in a nasty tendency to glop up when mixed and heated. A switch required an expensive intermediate flushing when changing types. The limited content esters used in all Mobil 1 oils are fully compatible, hot and cold, with conventional motor oils, so a switch is only a routine drain and refill away when switching. For gearheads curious about the desirability of esters at all in synthetic motor oils, adjust your reading glasses: Esters bring two advantages to motor oil blends:
1> they help maintain seal pliability to elliminate the major synthetic component's (polyalphaolefins) tendency to shrink elastomeric (geek-talk for "rubbery") seals.
2> they're "polar" molecules that latch onto metal like a magnet (actually, more correctly, an electrostatic attraction). This advantage assures there're NO dry starts because every metal part exposed to motor oil contact has at least a one molecule layer of ester clinging to it regardless how long the engine has sat since last being run.
In addition to synthetic motor oils, esters are also used in so-called "high-mileage" motor oil blends for their seal conditioning advantages. Since these little buggers cling to exposed metal, potentially there's that unadvertised dry-startup advantage lurking in high-mileage oils, too. Quite a number of forumners over at BITOG have switched from conventional oils to slightly costlier high-mileage oils for that reason alone in their moderate mileage and new cars after break-in. I personally haven't, but I can appreciate the logic of doing so.
Once it would not play, the second time it randomly ejected Cd's for no reason. The dealer admitted the entier unit is a problem.
7,500 miles. Toyota made some internal changes to facilitate oil drain from the upper end back to the sump and has cut back to recommended 5,000 mile OCIs. You're right - despite arguments to the contrary by a few "Honda knows best" diehards, there are legitimate arguments for more frequent OCIs in severe service operation - urban crawl, very hot or very cold weather, dusty conditions, high speed operation, towing, as well as any and all combinations of the above. Honda continues to recommend 8,000km/5,000km (5,000 mile/3,000 mile) oil and filter change intervals (normal/severe service) in their passenger cars distributed and operated in Europe, Asia, the Indian subcontinent, Australia, and New Zealand. (Are we to presume engines destined for those markets aren't as well designed and built as those for North America? Really? :confuse: (Or are the North American motor oil service recommendations simply a response to competitive market demands with minimal engineering department assurance that Honda's not likely going to have to replace bummed engines during the warranty period?)
Nah, unless your engine overheated. (From what you posted, that doesn't sound likely.) Just keep an eye on the level in the reservoir regularly - at least once a week. Tomorrow, while the engine's cold and before you start it, carefully remove the radiator cap to check the coolant condition and level in radiator.* It should be right up to the "shelf" in the filler neck that the lower cap gasket seals against. Shine a flashlight beam into the depths. If you see bright, scale-free, core tubing metal, that's a VERY good sign of a happy cooling system. Don't forget to replace the radiator cap properly. Check the coolant level at the radiator at least four times a year. More frequently wouldn't hurt - especially in hot weather.
You're right of course, elroy5. But 33 ft-lbs is plainly toward the upper limit or above for most cars. When I still owned my '96 Accord, the recommendation was nearly the same (32 ft-lbs), but I never tightened the oil pan drain plug beyond 18-20 ft-lbs. Never leaked, either - even re-using the same factory supplied washer over the seven years I had the car. (I bought an oil pan washer the day I dook delivery of my '96 - still got the darned thing somewhere. I s'pose had I used new washers at each 3,000 mile oil change, my Accord would've avoided getting totaled by the drunk woman in the Ford Contour who ran a red light, eh? )
(Don't get me started on the Gypie Lube oil change monkeys who tighten drain plugs with an impact wrench - and at that only after carefully cross-threading the danged things... )
Honda's antifreeze/coolant, PS fluid, and ATF are proprietary - the latter two are definite musts, though others have substituted other AF/Cs with fine results, too. However, brake fluids are Department of Transportation regulated for specific and consistent quality. ALL brake fluids are synthetic, too, whether they state so on the container or not. Honda brand DOT 3 brake fluid is no better than any other DOT 3 brake fluid. (It's illegal to stock and sell non-Department of Transportion rated brake fluids in the U.S., by the way.) If you want a BETTER brake fluid to handle heat and extreme driving conditions, go to a higher numeric grade. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point and typically only fifty cents/8 oz. bottle costlier. DOT 5.1 has an even higher boiling point. It's fairly pricey, though, and not always available in autoparts departments in discount department stores. They're all compatible, interchangeable and variations of polyglycol chemistry*. Do NOT use DOT 5 brake fluid. It's a silicone based fluid that requires complete flushing of the system before use. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 fluids.
*For modelers who need an effective paint remover that won't damage most common plastics, use a polyglycol-based brake fluid. The stuff's wonderful. Not only will it quickly soften the undesired paint (once softened, an old toothbrush will remove it right down to the plastic piece's original finish without marring it), it's easily removable with running tap water due to its being a water-soluble alcohol - leaves no residue behind.
I purchased a clearance 2006 Honda Accord with Nav last night and paid $770 for a zero deductable 5 yr 100,000 mile Honda Care Warranty. They wanted to charge us over $1000 dollars for this until we pulled out prices from another dealership that were much lower. We found these on the internet. The dealer agreed to match those prices.
The oil Honda sells with the Honda label on it is Mobil "Clean 5,000". It's supposed to be guaranteed for at least 5,000 miles. It's about the cheapest oil you can get from Exxon/Mobil.
I use Castrol Syntec. The Honda name is also on their label.
I am by no means and oil specialist. That's just what I decided on. You make your own choice.
Without getting too technical, a few thoughts about early motor oil darkening:
1> Certain additives in motor oil darken the first time the oil is brought up to engine normal running temperature. The color change has no effect on how their chemistry works.
2> All internal combustion piston engines produce varying amounts of combustion by-products in the form of soot, acids, and other partially oxidized "insolubles". This junk is either harmlessly expelled through the exhaust system or "blown" past the piston rings straight into the sump. The detergent/dispersant additives do a good job of neutralizing the junk harmlessly in suspension. Were it not for these specific additives, the junk would gradually clump into larger particles, stick solidly to bare metal parts, and form the gritty component of sludge. (Some is trapped by the oil filter - but not all. And since the formation of this crud is ongoing, it can only continue to increase in amount throughout the chosen oil-use interval despite the oil filter's best efforts.)
In other words, a fresh change of oil that darkens quickly isn't evidence that the oil is poor quality. The color change is actually evidence that the oil's additive package is doing its job.
(There are motor oils that will not darken perceptably in use. They go under the API classification of "SA" and "SB". "SA" has NO detergent additive - it's straight, unadditized mineral oil fresh from the refinery. "SB" has a very minimal amount of detergent additive. Until recently, WalMart in my area continued to stock this garbage for low-income/unsophisticates who are convinced that "SA" must be better than "SL" or "SM"... This stuff can result in visible sludging in approximately 4,000 miles. But, at least it remains pretty on the dipstick while the engine's going into critical meltdown.)
Our Honda dealer charges $26.
Maybe yoribe's was for a "full service" oil change and not the "economy?"
My oil change is always $21.95 + tax, unless I go with the "Full Service" Oil Change, in which belts and hoses are inspected, and something else (I can't remember) is done on top of normal. I usually don't do this (i inspect things myself), but before I take the car on trips I will have the full service done. It costs about $35.
If anyone has changed them, what did you use? thanks
Just my .02.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
All I can say is to wax the car, it will make the car's surface smoother and therefore a little easier to hand-dry the car when you wash it. If you do the drive-thru car wash thing, still wax it, and just drive it quickly (above 50 MPH) right afterwards; the water will blow off.
Also, Meguiar's (sp?) has something called "Detail Mist" I believe; I use it sometimes. It will eliminate your water spots and make your car's paint look especially vibrant. It is good for in-between waxings.
thegrad
All I can say is to wax the car, it will make the car's surface smoother and therefore a little easier to hand-dry the car when you wash it. If you do the drive-thru car wash thing, still wax it, and just drive it quickly (above 50 MPH) right afterwards; the water will blow off.
Also, Meguiar's (sp?) has something called "Detail Mist" I believe; I use it sometimes. It will eliminate your water spots and make your car's paint look especially vibrant. It is good for in-between waxings.
thegrad
I can not wash my car at home (very bad water, 40 year old pipes).
What I do is go to the nearest car wash, then hurry home to hand dry. (I must look like a nut swerving side to side on the road home, to get most of the water to come out of the cracks).
I started using the new ICE synthetic liquid polish from Turtle wax. And the spray detail also. It doesn't last as long as say Nu-finish does, but you don't get all the white dust either (the white dust is terrible on a black car). The new ICE polish is the easiest thing I have tried, to apply and remove. The best thing is, no white dust.
The service manager told me this morning he gets lots of those problems, and also told me the SAME exact problems happens with a few other cars equipped with the 6-CD changer, BUT ALSO WITH THE SINGLE CD PLAYER!
Our library uses a plastic tape to attach some kind of a code to the CD. The problem is -- ANYTHING attached to the top surface of the CD adds to the THICKNESS of the CD, and since the 6-CD changer (and even the single CD player) is very tightly made, anything that adds, even a very thin layer to the CD -- causes it to get stuck.
So now we have to wait a week for a replacement unit, get to our Honda service to take the old unit out, so they can send it to Honda, wait about SIX WEEKS for them to disassemble the unit and get those stuck CDs back to us....
Hope we all learn a lesson............... Don't insert any CD to your player unless it's a commercial CD, or, if burnt -- marked with a marker, NEVER WITH ANY STICKER/LABEL -- NOTHING that adds to the CD's thickness!!!
Sounds like your library needs to be notified what can happen with their labeling system.
Mrbill
You should not have to change the plugs for a long time (up to 100k miles). If you do decide to change them. Go with Honda original equipment. Either NGK or Denso. I think you can get them from Advance.
Has anyone's battery died yet from the 2003 year? Just wondering how long I can expect honda's battery to last cause it's in my wife's car and I'm not always around to bail her out if it would strand her. thanks in advance.
Any other suggestions on buying an Accord LX 06 would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
*There's nothing at all wrong with DEXRON ATF. But, it's specifically formulated for use in GM transmissions, not Honda transmissions.
Sounds like your library needs to be notified what can happen with their labeling system. -- Yes, I have to call them anyhow, to let them know they're not gonna see that CD for a while (asking them not to charge me late fees also...)... And I'll let them know of the problem, though I don't believe they'll do much... Changing all those THOUSANDS of CDs? Who will pay them? Honda?...
Otherwise, you need to TEST DRIVE BOTH CARS EXTENSIVELY, and judge for yourself, they are DIFFERENT cars. The Accord is a more SPORTY car, stiffer and less refined than the softer, smoother Camry.
This is my first car so please don't laugh at my silly questions. I have been studying the manual but couldn't find the answer so I hope that someone more experienced here would be able to help. Here are my questions, and the model I have is Accord Ex-L:
1. Is there a way to turn on the fan/vent without turning on the AC? The only way I am doing it now is to push the Auto button. If I press the AC button to turn off the AC, the fan will turn off as well...
2. Is there a way for the display to display the time when everything else is off, AC, radio, etc? What happened was I pressed the OFF button next to Auto to shut down the Climate Control System, and then I pressed the Audio/Power button to turn off the radio. Then the whole display was turned off/blank. The time was not even displayed. I was wondering if there is a way to have the time always displayed with nothing else on.
Thanks in advance for any help!
My guess is this isn't just a Honda problem, it could effect any CD changer or player. My bet is all it takes is one label to curl, and when it does, and it's accessed, it jams the changer making the whole thing unusable.
Mrbill
I didn't know the the clock could ever be turned off. I'll have to check that on my car.
On another note, I do miss the old Accord clock that allowed you to press a bar under the clock that would display the time even if you didn't have a key in the ignition.
Thanks!
Someone, like thegraduate, who doesn't have the Navi will be able to give you more specific info for your car.
You should be able to run the fan w/o the AC on. With the system on Auto, push the A/C button. I'd assume it would cut off the compressor, like it did with our Odyssey. You are saying that's not the case? If it's not, I got nuthin!
tallman, normally I'd be able to help, lest you forget, I have the cloth EX. No Auto Climate Control for me. I slum around with my manual controls, lol. I'm not an expert on the Accord's Dual A.C.C., but I've driven two Odyssey's with the system (our 2000 model was single zone, my aunt's 2005 is dual) and it works by just clicking the A/C button.
Try this: with the system off, push the fan speed up arrrow button. This will turn on the AC (not in auto mode). Then, push the AC button so the display says AC off. The fan should still be on. You can change the temp and fan speed too.
Not sure about the clock, but it would also never occur to me to turn off the radio! I will look at this next time I drive it, but I think you are right, when the display is off, you lose the clock.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.