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Are you a recent EV buyer (past 3 months) as a result of manufacturer incentives and dealer discounts on these vehicles, including year-end deals? Were you convinced to buy an EV after finding a good end-of-year deal, or due to uncertainty around which EVs will no longer qualify for full/partial EV tax credits in 2024? A national business reporter is interested in speaking with you. Please reach out to [email protected] by 12/15 if interested in sharing your story.
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I installed the rears today, install was fairly easy. You need to drill four 1/8" holes on the inside lip of each fender per each guard. They also include some clear decal type mat'l. to install on the painted surface so that the plastic guards don't rub thru the paint where they touch the fenders. Good idea. The install of this decal stuff is also easy. You should remove the wheel for best access to the fender area. Install time was about 1 hour per guard. Instructions are clear and easy to follow.
The guards look very good, they are molded to fit around the lip of the fender, just like Chevy should have done, at least as an option. The fit is very good.
I held up the front guards to the fenders, they also look like they will fit very good. Install is similar, but you only have to drill one new hole for each of the front guards. The front guards use three existing holes in the fenders. I will do the install of the fronts soon.
They are long enough that they look like they will be effective at keeping mud off the quarter panels. But, I still need to see if they hang up on brush off road. If they are too long, the guards look like they could be trimmed fairly easy. Time will tell, although my Toyota trucks and Trooper had guards at least as big as these with no problems.
I would give these mud guards a thumbs up. Big thumbs DOWN to Chevy for not offering them.
1offroader
Yes, GM should offer something equal to or better. One Chevy dealer offers free guards but it has the dealerships logo on them.
And yes, your throttle body will get trashed. Is it from the K&N oil? Don't know but since I dumped my K&N FIPK my throttle body doesn't get anywhere near as dirty.
I guess as we get older the "noise" gets annoying.
I have 2008 silverado HD 2500 LT and i install the GM original navigation system but i had some problem with the sound its not that loud what used to be ( my speaker is not BOSS ) , and how to install the real camera if there is no direct input for it .
I've a 2002 Sierra extended cab with the long overhead console in the roof. It currently has the slot to hold a single portable garage door opener, but I want to replace that with the GM 3 button homelink module. I picked up a used homelink module and have removed my console, however the homelink module has 3 wires (orange, black, and brown), while my old console only has the orange and black going into it. Can someone tell me what the brown wire is and if there is an easy way to connect this up?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike
Truck runs well with 89 octane and gets 17 around town with enough kick to squeal 20 inchers.
Did not see much difference in commuting miles by going synthetic so Castrol 5W-30 works for me.
"Noise" is relative to the cost of your catback. Older is also a relative term.
~Jim
Home link
You can email the vendor with your VIN to confirm it's the part you're looking for.
As I was doing the work I noticed that paint on the underside of the quarter panels behind the front wheel wells had a sandblasted look. Also, a little sandblasting effect on the front lower edges of the front doors. Some of the little nicks even go all the way down to the gray primer. It's not too bad yet, but I've had my truck a little less than a year and it is noticeable if you look closely. These guards will stop any more paint damage.
Mud guards are really needed esp. on a pickup or SUV that gets some use offroad. For the millionth time, it is STUPID not to offer them at least as an option. Thumbs down on GM for that decision.
These guards fit very well, & can be installed by anyone who has a basic ability with tools & who can follow directions. They are on 1offroader's Recommended List.
1offroader
None of the parts is OEM. The cab and motor area 'seem' to be a 1978 GMC C1500.
It has a 1978 GMC 250 L6 with/ 40k on it, new exhaust,nothing fancy, just a normal exhaust with/O cat;Midas said it was not required as the OEM 78 never had one and this is in SE Colorado. It has a granny-gear 4-speed floor mounted stick shift and from the motor you can see the flywheel or is it the clutch, the big geared wheel on the motor side of the trans. I just replaced the distributor as the old one was rusted out inside and the plates were loose and pivots and springs were missing. There is no power anything, no AC, and no radio. A "friend" chopped off some part of the carburetor as it wasn't being utilized I think he said the choke. The truck came with the wrong air cleaner as it covered half of the butterfly so I replace it with a Spectre cleaner but they get real dirty in a hurry.
When I got it it had no bed, so I got one locally for $50.00, it's a 79 Silverado bed.
Yes, you get what you pay for and it would need extensive work IF I was to go that way. Beside this a beater that gets me to work and back and is not intended to be a chick-magnet. Long story but maybe now you get the picture.
So how can I or a shop increase MPG on this beater?I'm willing to use anything including foreign parts with adapter plates to accomplish this. Ugly is not a problem.
Can anyone suggest the best method of running the coax cable from the antenna mount located close to the hood spring on the drivers side, into the cab?
Does it need to be run through the firewall? Do I need to drill through the firewall to do this or is there a place designed for third party use?
Is there a way to run the cable underneath the body and up into the cab without drilling through the firewall?
Thanks!
The new exhaust on the LMM is designed to cool the exhaust when the particulate filter burns off the soot that's collected (this happens about every 400 miles or so). It brings in fresh air to mix with the hot exhaust. The exhaust temps in the filter can get quite hot during this burnoff (upwards of 600º C, tailpipe temps about 1/2 that), so I would think twice about removing. Moving or bending upstream of the jet-pump (weird-looking tip) shouldn't be a problem, but I wouldn't cut it off.
You gain up to 15% H.P. and increase in fuel economy. Go to ssheaders.com & check it out.
Do any of you know if the optional camper mirrors actually extand out less when fully retracted? Or if there are other optional mirrors out there I can consider?
Thanks in advance.
My son has a 2004 GMC Sierra reg cab that got broken into two nights ago. They gained entry by popped the drivers side door lock into the interior of the door.
So the first question I have is how hard is it to take off the inside panel of the door to retrieve the lock and is the lock any good anymore?
The second question I have is if the factory alarm system had been set properly (it got turned off accidentally) would it have gone off? If it would have alarmed, how did the thief know it was off?