Toyota Tacoma Tires and Wheels
I recently had a blowout on the left rear of my '01 TRD double-cab, and was wondering the best on-line prices for a replacement tire (oem). I already checked a few tire places here in the SF Bay Area, and more than one said that that tire has been discontinued (but they'd be more than happy to sell me a full set of updated replacements...gee, who woulda' thought?). I currently am using my spare but don't want to place further unecessary mileage on it. Can someone point me in the right direction for a replacement tire that costs less than the $160 these guys are asking? Thanks!
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I think Toyota has made a mistake and in some sort of cost cuting measure. I believe either larger tires of a better set of struts might solve this problem. So far Toyota has done a very poor job responding to my safety concerns.
Am alone? Any advise would be nice.
They are awesome tires for the highway, even though the tread pattern remains very aggressive.
Is anything mass-produced not computer designed these days?
If you don't want to use the sensors at all, there is also a way to de-activate the whole tire pressure montitoring system. Some people find it annoying to use. E-mail me if you want info on how to disable the TPMS. It won't mess with the computer, BTW.
Got a link?
I don't have the system, but know someone who does. We drive the Cape Cod National Seashore in the summer and run 9-10 PSI. I'm sure his TPMS isn't going to like it.
I was looking at some threads talking about tires and tireshack.com. Pretty good prices if I have to buy new ones.
P.S.: Does anyone know what was OEM for a 2004 Taco Prerunner V6 SR5?
As a note, I test drove several other '04 trucks in the 22-32,000 mile range before buying this one, and the ride and handling from the OEM BF Goodrich tire was unacceptable in each test drive ! I don't recommend the OEM tire to anyone. I think many 2004 PreRunners are being traded off right now because of tire handling issues alone ... and, of course, the allure of the 'new' mammoth 05/06 body style. I will report my results on this problem in the coming weeks.
After owning the 4runner for a few weeks , while we were driving it home from a Sunday outing I noticed a warning lite flashing on the dashboard , it turned out to be the tire pressure warning lite !
After getting the truck home I check the tire pressure in all the tires including the spare tire , only to find the spare was flat. I took the spare down and found it had five punctures in it ! I plugged all five holes and fill all the tires to the proper pressures only to find the warning lite was still on. We took the 4runner to Toyota and were informed ALL our pressure sensors were missing and they wanted $800 to reinstall them !
I told the service manager that thats the way they sold the truck to me and that they owed me the sensors since they must have swapped away the tires that came with our truck from the factory before we purchased it, the service manager told me that that was impossible because the warning lite would have been flashing from the minute we took the truck.
Can anyone tell me if the dealer could have disabled the tire pressure warning lite for a temporary amount of time so I wouldn't know the tires with the sensors were swapped away to someone else ??
Also as I look further into this problem I notice my rims were not the same as other 2005 4runner sport models or any other Toyota model with the tire pressure warning system , in that the rim with the sensors has a much larger cut out on the rim to mount the pressure sensor to, and the rims on my truck have a small hole with a rubber stem coming out of them , which looks much to small to fit the tire pressure sensor to.
Can anyone tell me how to shut the warning lite from flashing until I can get this matter settled in small claims court !
Truck delivered with Bridgestone Duelers, replaced due to recall we all know about. Absolutely great when new, no argument.
These tires had air pressure checked every week, were rotated every three weeks, four wheel alignments every six months. Never driven off road, hard or abused. Tires wore to wear bars at 1/2 tire life.
Replaced tires at pro-rate price or 2/3's of new cost plus mounting, warranty, disposal, etc.
These tires lasted 1/2 of the tire life under the same conditions as the previous set.
I'll never buy these tires again because.
1. You buy new tire, lets say at $100.00 ea. with warranty for 'X' miles.
2. You maintain tires above requirements.
3. Tires wear to wear bar at 1/2 of 'X' miles.
4. You replace at 2/3's or $75.00 ea. plus other dealer cost.
Net: You paid $175.00 ea. plus dealer cost twice to go the original miles you paid for at day one.
Not a bad marketing plan, warranty a tire that will go 1/2 the distance, have the customer pay 2/3's to replace providing they can prove they maintained the tire to warranty requirements.
Now doesn't this make you feel good about Bridgestone???
I need some Feed Back please. Thanks.
The question remains, what next? A good friend is a tire engineer and he tells me that car manufactures develop models with a tire in mind, so I should consider going with the OE tire, a Dunlap. I had Goodyear Wrangler ATs on my 1986 Toy and really liked them.
I would appreciate comments and suggestions. :confuse:
Logically, if you carry heavy weight I the bed, you’ll want more air so the tire holds the proper shape (does not balloon). Likewise if you pretty much never carry anything heavy in the bed, you’ll actually want to use less air to maintain proper tire shape, and thus even wear.
All that being said – I’m going to stick with 32psi all the way around and see the wear patterns for myself – then adjust as needed. Traditionally I’ll actually over compensate – if my tire’s middle is wearing thin, I’ll put too little air in the tire to get the use of the outer edge (and vise versa). The main thing is to check the pressure regularly so you can catch them if the pressure starts to go off in one or more tires (valve inconsistency?), thus you get consistent wear feedback for what tire pressures you’ve chosen.
It’s VERY important to measure your pressure under consistent conditions. Just driving the car down to the gas station will heat up the tire (because of carcass flex), and increase the tire pressure. The pressures given above should be flat-cold in the morning or evening, and after many hours of non-use.
Interestingly on my motorcycle, out at a track day, it’s all about tire temperature for grip, not pressure. The front tire is roughly half the volume of the rear, and I use 33psi in the front, and 34 in the rear on an average day. The rule of thumb is to shoot for 10% increase in pressure in the front and 20% increase in the rear (which is an abstract approach to getting the correct TEMPERATURE from tire pressure). So when I come in from a run the tires should be about 36.5 in the front, and 41 in the rear. Starting with less air pressure will make the tire bulge, and cause much more friction in the tire as it roles, heating up the tire more, and increasing the % different between cold/hot.
I kind of went off topic, but maybe this helps with overall knowledge of the processes going on. I am certainly no expert.