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Dodge Magnum Maintenance & Repair



  • I don't agree that it is "normal," or at least that it SHOULDN'T be normal.

    The reason, is this: sometimes, when I pull up to a light, the idle is smooth and sometimes you can feel the car shaking a bit. The presence or absence of the shaking correlates with idle speed; when the engine is ticking over at just a tad over 500 rpm, it shakes a bit, but when the idle settles in at say, about 650 rpm (I am obviously estimating here, with an analog readout on the tach), it feels smooth.

    So the issue is that I have never seen a modern, computer-controlled engine idle speed vary by that much, even in cars twenty years older.

    It's just a glitch in the engine management system that shouldn't be there (I noticed no correlation with ambient temperature, how hot the engine is, A/C use, etc).
  • If your car is fitted with one (not all are) it should be under the cowel on the left side.

    Pop the hood, look @ the left side below the wiper, there should be a long access panel with some tabs, push the tabs open the panel and the filter should be in there!.

    Hope this helps.
  • I have the same issue with a rattle on a 2008 Magnum. The noise, however, is coming from the passenger side. It only occurs when I am on residential streets, or somewhere you have to drive at lower speeds. I have been to the dealership twice, they claim to have not heard a thing. They said they re torqued everything on the front end and there was nothing loose. They also said, they had re lubed the entire front end and that should stop it. It hasn't. I am going to take it back for the third time next week. Does anyone have any ideas at all?
  • My 05 Magnum had the poor handling issues. Dumping the OEM tires cured that. I also had the rattling knocking noises at low speed over bumpy roads, parking lots. My mechanic replaced the sway bar bushings and that resolved the issue. The noises have returned again, so I believe the other bushings are probably toast. Most mechanics said there wasn't anything wrong with the front end, but this last guy really researched it for me.
  • My 2005 dodge magnum R/T will shut down when driving. This only happens after filling up with gas. I will be driving and car will shutdown any were from 4 to 8 times. No power steering, No power brakes, nothing. It will start back up and then do it again. Have taken to the dealer ship numers times and they can not find anything wrong with it. They want me to pay $300 + to run some more tests and that my not even tell them what the problem is. I'm thinking it has something to do with fuel system. Has any buddy heard of this problem before or have any thoughts. Please help.
  • I was turning into a parking lot the other day when the car lost all power. I had to put the car back into Park and then turn the key again to start it up. It started up and ran just fine after that. I haven't had this issue since. I am wondering what might be the cause of this? :confuse:
  • Does anyone know the location of the sensor on a 2005 Magnum RT?? The check engine light went on, I went to Auto Zone she ran the computer and told me that it was a sensor. I got the piece now I need to install. Will there be a lot of coolant leaking.?? The car is cold !!! Any help would deeply appreciated.
  • bec3bec3 Posts: 2
    I have a 07 Magnum RT ( NEW) it has done the same thing to me 2 times. I took it to the shop and they told me without a warning light they could not find out what the problem is. My trans. got stuck in 3rd gear and I drove the car 30 miles to get home. With no warning light. The light can on later that night when I took my husband for a drive in the car. To show him what it was doing. I went about 1 more mile and then the warning light went on. So if Iam wating for the light to come on, good luck.
  • bec3bec3 Posts: 2
    Has anyone had parking brake problems?? I have had my front, and rear brakes replaced. My parking brake makes a metal to metal nosie when you are going 10 to 15 MPH. I have a Magnum RT 2007 with 14,000 miles. I have had my car in the shop 6 times for the brakes. Last time with the parking brake Dodge told the dealership to switched the brakes. The put the right on the left and the left on the right. It did not work. Now that they cannot fix my car. The want me to bring it back when a Dodge Rep is there so the can drive the car.
  • I have been having the same problem for over 6 months. It only happens when I fill up will gas and only if I fill up till the gas pump quits pumping. If I don't fill up it dos not happen. I have take to Dodge they don't know what is wrong ether. They have had the car numerous times and ran there test. They now want me to pay about $300+ to run test that they are unsure will tell them whats wrong. The car will completely shut down and will do it many time. It will also jump forward. Now if I just fill it up to 3/4 of a tank or less it will not do any of these thinks. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
  • After reading the above posts and talking with some friends I believe it is fuel related. The one time it happened to me I did not just fill up with gas. I had filled up two days before. I believe it is water in the tank. When you turn some how the water is getting into the fuel pump and it shuts the car off. I have put in a few cans of "heat( the yellow bottles that take water out of the fuel) and will see if it every happens again. Thanks for the replies!
  • The annoying rattle in the front end is definately bushings, my guess is the weight of the vehicle is making them wear pretty quickly. from the sound and looks of the bushings, it is the large sway bar in the front end. I have an 05, bought it in summer of 04, have 70,000 mi's and the rattle has progressively gotten louder over bumpy roads at any speed, as the miles stack on. if you have any other front end noise, look at your wheel bearings, my driver side front was toast at 50,000mi. The rear differential blew its seal around 55,000 and lost all its oil, fixed it before it siezed (under warranty) prior to it being fixed, I noticed an oil drip under the rear driveline, you could see the oil splash burned to the exhaust pipe that runs past the pumpkin, i took it to the dealership, they said it was fine, not to worry, it kept dripping. I took it to another dodge shop on the east coast during a road-trip, told them to open it up, they realized it was bad and fixed it. beyond this, the car has been pretty solid, put some performance tires on it with the 18in rims and you're good to go.
  • I'm sure i am not the first to make this statement but they don't make them like they use to, and what ever happened to customer service, here is my story!! i purchased my 2005 magnum in december of 04, i spotted a black magnum while driving down I-10 and said to myself i like that car, yes looks are deceiving, i decided to purchase a new vehicle and headed straight to the dcj dealership, 1st wrong move, we all know soon as you step foot on the dealers property they become your long lost friend act as if they are part of your family even offer their first unborn child anything for a sale. Myself not knowing the tactics and lies they tell to sucker you WITH a piece of crap. Two days of driving around the car just died in the middle of the street, took the car back in but you know the service big excuse "can't duplicate the problem" so it's not our problem. so after many trips back to the dealer for every problem listed here in these forums, i see that i'm not the only person with a pile of crap in the garage, WHAT GOES AROUND WILL COME AROUND FOR YOU CAR MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS.
  • Receiving the follow code after check engine light; Coolant thermostat (cooling temperature below themostat requlating temperature). Any thought or ideas as to what is causing this code.
  • kayjkayj Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 dodge dakota and i would like to know where can i find the engine number
  • sabobasaboba Posts: 5
    my 2005 magnum has an issue when the car is at an idle the light are fine but when it hits 1000 to 1500 rpm it starts to flash and not only do the headlights flash but the dashlights and the emergency flash button flashes as well. no non lighting connceted items flash like the radio. I have had the battery and the alternator tested and they both work fine anyone know what else it could be.
  • i have the same problem on a customers car and i will tell u it will either be the torque rods which run from front of the sub frame to the spindle Quote not the ball joint the bushing in the torque rod cracks and causes the noise just replace both torque rods and it should be fine im told they are 104.00 a peace what ever u do try to stay away from replaceing the lower ball joints they are 900.00 each the whole spindle assembly unbeleavable hope this helps you out which im sure it will good luck oh and make sure to check the end links and the sway bar bushings aswell but unlikely the problem.
  • well i would say your torque rod bushings are cracked replace the torque rods they go from the front of the sub frame to the spindle
  • enzieenzie Posts: 2
    :confuse: Hi I own a 95 Dodge 2.7 Magnum and we have been experiencing major brake squealing. We changed the brakes/Rotors $1000.00 plus in repair. We have even brought it back to the dealership and requested all new brakes again! We are still experiencing the same if not worst sounds...almost embarrassing to drive sounds when we go to stop!! :blush: Also at 100 km a continuess loud high pitch squeal will all of a sudden appear and will sometimes go away when we apply the brake sometimes this doesn't help either...HELP! Other than this problem it has been a joy to own! :shades:
  • enzieenzie Posts: 2
    :sick: Hi I own a 2005 Dodge 2.7 Magnum and I have been experiencing major brake squealing. I changed the brakes/Rotors $1000.00 plus in repair. I have even brought it back to the dealership and requested all new brakes again! I am still experiencing the same if not worst sounds...almost embarrassing to drive sounds when I go to stop!! Also at 100 km a continuess loud high pitch squeal in the rear will all of a sudden appear and will sometimes go away when I apply the brake sometimes this doesn't help either...HELP! Other than this problem it has been a joy to own!
  • last week end took the car to a wedding and the car wouldn't start after the wedding. It wasn't the battery! The car would start then shut off. I tried to turn it over a few times but nothing. I tried one more time and held down the gas(as it felt like it wasn't getting any) and it fired up and stayed running. I took the car to the dealer and $500 later they flushed the fuel system and put in new plugs I thought that fixed it but today the car shut off when I was at a stop light. I love this car but I am getting worried it is not reliable anymore? Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Heym

    Im from France and I have couple friends to which this happened on Audis a6.

    When you fill up your gas tank, the volume of the gas injected grows and the weight of the liquid of course increases with it (according to relativity). Problem is, this car has a 71 liter gas tank. When you fill it up and make turns or quick starts, the gas pomp which calculates live the amount of gas needed to run the engine through an electronic devices placed in the computer system of the car, opens up the valves and let go by the gas needed to keep running the engine . Since american cars are not as soffisticated as Germans, the electronic device and computer system in general do not take into its calculus the weight and liter amount actually present in the tank. If its total weight is too high, gas goes into the valve to quickly since the tank weight is heavier than usually, resulting in the engine being overrun by gas that is not able to be consumed. Basically your engine draws over gas, that explains why it shuts down

    Its a problem that is related to the constructor, you need to check you gas pomp and as well your computer system.

    It could happen the other way (dodge could have conceived a computer system that would under run the engine with gas instead of over running it)

    But i'm not very optimistic, i think they will just try to get money out of you since they wont admit such a failure in the design of the car....

    German cars computer system are much more sophisticated than that, that's why they cost more money to fix!
  • If you ever watched formula one racing, this happens to their machines sometimes. When pit stopping, if they full the tank to its maximum capacity you can see once they start again an irregular amount of smoke. Sometimes it created little fires too as you can see on that video here :

    Just dont fill up your tank I think you will be fine.

    Fill it all the way to 3/4 of its capacity and don't go under 1/4 either as you may experience the opposite phenomenon
  • wanguswangus Posts: 2
    the dodge magnum uses a computer system designed by Mercedes Benz...part of the now defunct Daimler partnership...quite sophisticated.
  • While on a out of town trip, my RF brake seized up while driving, I could smell it burning. Towed into local garage...I just had to replace all of the pads & rotors on my 2007 Magnum RT AWD w/10K miles. The rotors were so rusted the pads were shot, had grooved the rotor so bad they couldn't be turned. The entire rotor assembly was rusted solid 1/16" all over, even on the face. After I got back, took rotors to Dodge dealer. Gee..we know of no problem with these brake systems. Looks like bad cheap chinese steel to me. Anyhow $1200.00 bucks later all is well.
  • I own a 2006 Dodge Magnum with a 2.7 liter engine. At times it seems to hesitate accelrating from a stop and also while driving. It seems to go away after it has had time to warm up.
    My first thought was one or more bad spark plugs. It has 132,000 km's on it.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance

  • jaymagjaymag Posts: 3
    I have the same problem on my 2006 R/T. I have 50,000 miles on it and it is currently in service for this. (8 months ago the dealership told me it was a gunked up throttle body and cleaned it out. I now have the car with my local mechanic who told me the charcoal canister was full of fuel (actually has caused the car to stall immediately after fueling) and is exploring what he thinks is transmission problems. We'll see what the diagnosis is.
  • Thanks for the info Jay. Let me know what they find, if you don't mind doing so.


  • jaymagjaymag Posts: 3
    Hi Mike,
    I got my car back today. My mechanic checked the "computer library" for manufacturer's calibration updates and or corrections. He installed the latest revised calibration ID and cleared the system of all trouble codes and reset the learning adapts. He explained to me that it was much like downloading the latest updates from Windows for my computer. I have only driven the car around town as yet but I do notice it shifting more smoothly and no hesitation. Truth will be told the next time I take it on the highway for a trip. Evidently the vapor canister was a real problem and was replaced as well as the hoses that had been contaminated by holding fuel. Good luck with your car - I love these vehicles and am not ready to part with it yet. My dealer addressed none of this when I took it in 8 months ago with the same problem.
    Best, Jay
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