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Volkswagen GTI Maintenance and Repair



  • vooch,

    I've noticed the GTI gets poor mileage when the engine is not warmed up. If you have a later model Celica your engine has an aluminum block. The GTI on the other hand is a cast iron block, which takes longer to heat up.

    I have a 4 mile drive to work as well, and I've noticed that mileage doesn't get respectable until about mile 3 (watch your instant mpg display). Since the GTI is fun to drive, I've changed my route so I now have an 8 mile drive to work. It's a dumb argument to drive farther to get better mileage, but like I said I'm doing it for the fun.

    Also take a long trip someplace. Get it on the highway for a few hundred miles and punch it a few times. I noticed better mileage after a couple of excursions. Guess I freed up the engine a bit.
  • I'm sure that the GTI is a fast little car but I wouldn't call 200 hp with 207 lb torque a "high performance engine". Many cars available today have much more HP and torque. I have owned a 1998 GTI VR6 and the 2001 GTI. The VR6 was far superior to the Turbo 1.8. The only thing nice about this particular model is that it is made in Germany vice Brazil. I wonder if this will be the only year that happens? Does anyone know? Or will VW continue to make the GTI in Germany?
  • I believe we have been talking about the new 2.0T FSI engine on the mkV GTI's...

    For a four cylinder 2.0 liter turbocharged engine, 200 hp and 207 lb-ft of torque are performance numbers. There aren't that many cars running four bangers that can hustle to 60 in 6.7 seconds (ok, so the srt4, evo, and sti are freaks). Sure there are lots of v6 and v8 engines with more hp and torque, but they have a lot more displacement to work with. If you felt the need for better numbers you could even chip the 2.0T engine for 30-50 more hp (while voiding your warranty).

    In addition, the new 2.0T engine is far superior to your old VR6. The edmunds library cites the VR6 as having only 172 hp and 173 ft-lbs torque and a zero to 60 time of 7.1 seconds. I wouldn't judge the new GTI based on the prior 1.8T mkIV

    I'll stick with my 2.0T thank you very much.

    In the event that the mkV R32 makes it over to america it will be sporting the next gen. VR6.

    ...Powered by a 24-valve 3.2L V-6 that generates peak torque of 236 lb.-ft. (320 Nm) at 3,000 rpm, the R32, which debuted at the 2005 Frankfurt auto show, will be available with VW's Direct-Shift Gearbox dual-clutch transmission...

    If VW makes good on it's word, you can party with the new R32 summer 2007. Since north america usually gets the europe vw table scraps, it will probably be some bastardized version.
  • mheinsmheins Posts: 4
    I got my 2006 GTI 2.0T manual trans. a couple of weeks ago, and I *really* love most everything about this car. I've got about 1000 miles on it now, and it recently feels like I've lost some low rpm torque since I got it. I thought at first it might be my imagination, but I've since done some unscientific tests, and I do believe there's an issue. What I do to test is put it in 4th going up a gentle slope, and adjust RPM to 1800. I then "get on it", and pay close attention to the acceleration I feel and the RPM. It definitely starts out weak. At about 2300-2400 acceleration picks up very quickly, and then seems to maintain a constant acceleration through 5000. As far as I can remember, it feels like the performance above 2500 is the same good performance it had when I bought it. Gas mileage is good, and I don't hear any unusual noises when testing.

    I plan to talk to the dealer about it, but wanted to know if anyone else had experienced similar, or had ideas on what might cause this.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Posts: 483
    I'm sure that the GTI is a fast little car but I wouldn't call 200 hp with 207 lbs torque a "high performance engine". Many cars available today have much more HP and torque. I have owned a 1998 GTI VR6 and the 2001 GTI. The VR6 was far superior to the Turbo 1.8. The only thing nice about this particular model is that it is made in Germany vice Brazil. I wonder if this will be the only year that happens? Does anyone know? Or will VW continue to make the GTI in Germany?

    Well, yes, performance is relative to engine size (displacement), and the 2.0TFSI rates very well, which got VW/Audi yet another Ward's Auto award...

    Of course, this engine is underrated, with close to 200hp/lbs-ft wheel (rather than crank), as many dynos have shown. It has already been sold in ~225hp versions in the European A4, and close to 260 lbs-ft is the norm for simple and inexpensive tuner ECU re-flashes. At any rate, don't underestimate the significance of the direct injection technology.

    I have not seen any plans to move production of the left-hand-drive (right-side-of-street) MkV Golf/GTI outside of Wolfsburg. The MkVI will be arriving shortly (late 2008 Germany production) - so that will be the time to stay tuned for.
  • My 97 vr6 starts just fine but if I try to drive and get the rpms above 3200 it conks out and will not restart for a minute or two.When I turn the key after it stalls it wont even turn over a little bit.Also when it does restart after the stall it shakes vioently untill its warm the its fine.If I start it up and let it run untill it reaches normal operating temp everything is fine.Theres also the occasional stall when its warm if I'm not on the gas say at a red light it stalls but will restart just fine.If any1 has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. PS this is a year round problem
  • frank908frank908 Posts: 48
    The MkIII platform was the first to use the VR6 powerplant, which debuted in a 12V version. The engine was initially marketed as a DOHC engine, however this is a point of contention due to the unique design. Yes, there are two overhead cam shafts, however there is only one cam shaft over each bank of cylinders. The next generation of the VR6 engine, used in the MkIV platform, in 2004, was a true double overhead cam engine, with one camshaft controlling the inlet valves and the other controlling the exhaust valves, while still using two cam shafts over the one cylinder head. The 24V engine also features other technical improvements, such as variable valve timing and a variable geometry inlet manifold, that enables it to extract another 20HP from the same displacement, giving it a total of 200 horspower. :P So the VR6 is just as fast as the new 2.0 T and it sounds a whole helluva lot better getting there too without any turbo lag at all. Don't get me wrong, the 2.0T is a awesome engine and it has more torque ta boot!
  • danadanedanadane Posts: 1
    My 2001 GTI has what I thought was a serious problem. It stopped abrubtly a week ago, and a message appeared where I normally see the temp and mpgs... it said in big letters, STOP. It proceeded to beep at me while flashing the word. Now thefirst mechanic has said it is the timing belt which blew the pistons and damaged valves. The problem is that it sounds like he didnt even take a good look cause he said he can just tell.....? But a friend of mine has informed me that my car doesnt even have a belt its a chain.Any input?
  • orbit9090orbit9090 Posts: 116
    The solution to all of you peoples VW :lemon: reliability problems is to trade-it-in on something that won't break so often.

    When you REALLY get tired of visiting the VW dealership for this-and-that defects and :sick: breakdowns, take a step-up to the plate and invest in an Acura or a Honda...and then you can do without the snooty :mad: VW dealership attitude too.

    By the way, Acura's 4-cyl makes 200 HP without a turbo (TSX) and 240HP with a turbo (RDX). :shades: The Honda Civic's base 4-cyl (140hp) makes about 17% more hp-per-cyl than VW's noisy 5-cyl...and the Japanese achieve WAY better mileage.

    Now you know.

    The upcoming Civic Si 4-cyl is rated near 200hp.

    "Yes, dear, rabbits do make cute pets...but who has the time for all that maintenance."
  • voochvooch Posts: 92
    Allhorizon, I tried driving using WOT and it does seem to make a difference. I've found that the real problem seems to be stop and go driving. As long as I'm moving and not sitting in traffic the mileage is respectable. But the GTI does not like to be sitting motionless then move 10 ft, repeat. I can get in the low 20's as long as I'm not in stop and go traffic. I guess the Celica just did much better in stop and go traffic. Thanks for the tip though.
  • gputzgputz Posts: 49
    I think the consensus so far is that the reliability of the MkV is decidedly better than the previous generation(s).

    Be careful when drawing conclusions. This is still a new car and it's way too early to speak to long-term reliability.... and that's what really matters.

    I hope you're right, but I'll need a lot more validation from owners.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    What brand and octane of gas do you fill up?
  • mheinsmheins Posts: 4
    I always use 91 octane (premium).

    Additional information on the issue: I have verified by using an accelerometer based performance product that the torque curve is pretty sloped up to about 3000 rpm. I've also determined that apparently it's not just my car, because I test drove another one at my dealer's, and as far as I could tell, it accelerated the same way.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    93 Octane will get the most out of your GTI. The dealer's car you tested might only fill in any gas lower than 91.
    BP Ultimate with an Octane of 93 has been tested as the best of other major brand as Shell, Exxon and Sunoco.
    Try a tank to see if there is any difference.
  • wonderwmnwonderwmn Posts: 1
    I'm new to this forum, and have a question regarding the care and maintenance of turbos.

    I will be purchasing a 2006 or 2007 VW GTI, and I'd like to know what I should do as good preventative maintenance to ensure that the turbo is well taken care of. I have heard that I should let the engine continue to run for 1 minute after stopping the car, or that I should get a turbo timer that will do that for me. Is this absolutely necessary, and is there anything else I should be aware of?
    Thanks in advance!
  • fgslrfgslr Posts: 5
    I believe the owners manual on the 2006 GTI says that you don't need to run the car after stopping unless you just stopped from high speed as on the freeway. Under normal driving if the engine is at normal temp. you should be OK to turn off the engine after stopping. I also have a turbo diesel truck and it says to run after stopping until the exhaust temp is around 300 degree's, which happens at about 30 seconds after stopping. I would not invest in a turbo timer for these new turbos.
  • as a car guy w a bachelors in mech eng, I am aware of the hi throttle load efficiency theory, and I have an 01 gti turbo. not sure if this theory applies to turbos, have u tested it? do u accelerate briskly but shift up quickly? I admit i tend to accelerate slowly but shift up so that higher gear starts at 2K. would love to know what the VW engineers think!! ps mucho problems w my car, I'll save that for another forum or question.
  • How do we know if one has been issued? will the dealer admit it? I certainly dont trust those chumps! my engine ck light has come on recently, I had the codes read and it's my air sensor (a $300 part, oh joy). anybody have their air sensors replaced?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    > take a step-up to the plate and invest in an Acura or a Honda.

    To me, driving a Japanese car is like submitting your form, checking in your identity and becoming one of the masses...

    "I drive a Japanese car. Me too. Me three...etc. etc..."

    The reliability of the VWs I've owned are equal to the Japanese offerings. The Japanese have been good at copying someone else's design features rather than being the pioneer. For example, when VW/Audi brought drive-by-wire technology to their models in the late 1990s, they were ridiculed. Honda just started to use drive-by-wire recently and nobody says a word - because in their eyes, Honda could do no wrong. The same thing is happening to VW again with the criticism of their electromechanical steering. Guess what - I predict that Honda and the other Japanese makes will soon follow suit. But once again - its all right if they do it. VW is unreliable, VW is a piece of junk, blah, blah, blah.

    To me, the Germans are the innovators. Anything else is a compromise. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    "The Japanese have been good at copying someone else's design features rather than being the pioneer."

    There is a lot of truth to that statement but I think you draw the wrong conclusions.

    Yes, in many ways the Germans ARE the innovators. And yes, in many ways the Japanese ARE good at copying someone else's design features.

    But what you leave out is the fact that AS IMPLEMENTED, these innovations end up having a fair number of bugs as initially introduced on German cars. Which is fine if you want to be on the bleeding edge with new innovations. But the Japanese take those innovations and work the bugs out.

    Perhaps this is one reason why folks become leary of new 'innovations' on German cars but don't worry about the same thing appearing on a Toyota or Honda.
  • Hi all,

    I bought my brand new '07 GTI two weeks ago and just now realized that my Daytime Running Lights are not working. Before I take it to the dealer, does anyone have a suggestion? I checked the fuses, but can't find anything. It's pretty annoying, I have 400 miles on the car and I already have stuff checked out. Oh, yeah a rubber seal on my passenger door needs to be replaced as well ... :mad:
  • banibani Posts: 39
    I had exactly the same problem. The sport seats killed my lower back and no amount of fiddling with lumbar adjustment or any other adjustment helped. The seats are really hard. The sport seats in the Subaru STI and the Mazdaspeed6 are far more comfortable.

    The GTI sport seats are also super, super narrow. And even with the super side bolstering everyone in the car was sliding all over the place in cornering due to the slippery leather.

    I might check out the non-sport seats in the GTI to see if they're any better, probably in cloth so they're not so freaking slippery.
  • Hondas are not without fault. I am getting ride of a 2005 V6 Accord with 12000 miles on it. Due to repairs thus far....2 transmissions, 3 radios, AC, Speakers, Windshield rattles and leaks. So on and on.
  • banibani Posts: 39
    what does "getting ride" mean?
  • Means...let someone else deal with that junk.
  • vw have a problem with reliability - i bought my 2006 GTI 2.0L turbo 8 months ago - put 28,000 miles driving to work on interstates. GTI handles very well and is a joy to drive BUT i was informed by the dealer that the 2.0L turbo engine has carbonization problems in the United States (our fuel is not that well refined compared with europe). i was advised to use mid=grade in wintertime. I mix mine 50/50 reg/super because every station i talked to does not sell much of mid-grade and with etanol (absorbs water) in it i don't want water problems on top of carbon problems. Has anyone else experienced similar problem ?? will appreciate any feedback, paul
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Is GTI require 91 Octane? If that is so, 50/50 of 87 & 93 is not right. Should be 1 part of 87 to 2 parts of 93.
    It better to use name brand foreign gas like Shell or BP to avoid carbonization problem.
  • Tnx for info BUT i was using Shell and it did carbonize -
    also dealer said mid-grade (mid-grade is 89 octane) so my 50/50 mixture is 1 point over 89. Engine is rated at 91, but why does a dealer want 89 in wintertime - ignition computers should adjust mixture in cold temperatures UNLESS the computers have a bug which causes carbonization (incomplete combustion of fuel) this to me is very troubling especially when the car runs great w/o power loss and handles excellently
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Have they clean your fuel system? I don't know why they suggest you use 89 ISO 91 due to cold temperatures. May be some folks here like Shipo will be more qualified to answer your question.
    My 2004 GLI (VR6) requires 91, I used 93 for the first 22,000 miles, now I use 91 by mixing 87 & 93 myself for 6,000 miles due to larger price differential between 87 & 93 gas .So far my engine has no problem.
  • wondering about the WOT theory under dynamic (IE accelerating conditions) state. under steady state, high throttle load ,I understand, is most efficient. but when accelerating, not sure. old school carburetors would squirt more fuel to speed up the process, but dont know injector theory.
    Are we seeking to avoid spooling up the turbo?? What is the source of your understanding if you dont mind? reading car mags or something more technical?? Would love the chance to speak w the VW Engineers directly eh?
    my qualifications: MechEngineer and former Jet engine test engineer
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