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Volkswagen GTI Maintenance and Repair



  • sueswimsueswim Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 2001 gti. If you park it for more than 5 minutes but less than an hour and it's hot, then it won't start. What year is your and did you fix it?
  • waz69waz69 Posts: 3
    hi mines a 1992 mk3 all my elec probs we down to the coil pack had a new 1 fitted and no probs since touch wood . if yours is the same would recomend search ebay or onlne for 1 and get some one with a bi of common sence to fit it for you if you carnt do it yourself , coz i int know wat was up with the car the garage stung me £192 + vat for a £40 coil pack and 1 hrs faf , hope this helps
  • jondc212jondc212 Posts: 15
    hey so i am thinking of getting a 2007 GTI. i am a current owner of a Honda accord with 167,000 miles and going.

    But i want a faster, fun, and FAST again car to drive around.

    Being a Honda owner for the past 8 years it has been really good to me, besides freaking people who try to jack my car.

    Will the GTI give me the same reliability with less mechanical problems through many years??

    please experienced VW owners share your love and hate...
  • banibani Posts: 39
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    not as uber reliable as honda, but all mkV's (jetta, rabbit, gti) have been worlds better reliability-wise then their predeccesors.

    dont ever ask anyone to share their you really want to get anywhere with your question?
  • astormalastormal Posts: 4
    I purchased the 2007 gti exactly a month ago. My heart was set on a Honda civic si coupe until a friend told me that the vw rabbit was the way to go. I test drove the rabbit/gti and fell in love with the gti (big mistake) should have stayed focused on my first choice (honda). My brand new 1 month old car will randomly not start, the battery gets a boost and I'm back on track. I've taken it to the shop and am still awaiting a response. So far, they can't replicate the problem, hence they can not figure why my brand new car is not starting. Since you own an acura, you probably haven't had to deal with the headaches. Not sure how lucky you will be if you switch over to VW. Good luck, and if you want a car that will not leave you stranded and cause you more headaches than it is worth, do your research.
  • astormalastormal Posts: 4
    I feel your pain. Did they ever figure out what the problem was. I have my car in the shop and they may need a little help in figuring out was woring. I've missed one day of work, and was late one day within the same week. In addition, I've had the car for only one month. What to do?
  • astormalastormal Posts: 4
    What could it be. Why would my battery die without a reason, how come VW Service can't figure it out and why would they be willing to give me the car back if they can't figure out what the problem is if I evidently have a problem. I only had the car for a month and have been having the problem for the past week. The battery has died on me 3x. First time it was overnight, 2nd time I was at the airport dropping off my little sis, left the hazard lights on while unloading and giving her hugs goodbye (10 minutes). Then I load everyone back in the car and the car engine does not want to start. Luckily I hailed a good samaritan who gave me a boost. Any one have a similiar problem. I have a 2007 VW GTI, recently purchased on June 18th.
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    i just visited that website; hilarious!

    some actual legitamate problems, and then people who don't realize the rabbit is build in germany and not brazil. Losers.

    anyway. astormal, why don't you replace the battery? and see if this keeps happening? maybe thats why they can't replicate the problem?
  • extech2extech2 Posts: 120
    If we assume your battery isn't defective, the no start problem is caused by a weak alternator or a drain on the system. The way to check it is disconnecting a battery cable and checking the draw between that post and the cable with an ammeter. I don't remember the exact procedure. Once a draw has been found, they disconnect the fuses one-by-one, and this gives them a clue where is the component which gives you a problem. Certain items like the clock or computers might draw a minuscule amount, but you need to find the component which draws more then normal. I can't remember the specs, but it varies from car to car. Please let us know whatever you found.
  • halpethalpet Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 MkV with DSG and Automatic climate control.

    On my way to work last wednesday I hit the A/C and nothing but warm air, about mid way through my ride to work it magically starts blowing ice cold. I turn it down as its getting cold, the compressor kicks off never to come back on. On my lunch hour that day the same thing to a tee. On my way home the same thing with a little twist. After the A/C had started working I was at a light, light turns green go to hit the gas and nothing...RPM's drop to about 1-200 and then the engine shuts down. I push it to the side of the road wait a few minutes and start it up. It seems fine, I figure I'll try and make it to the dealer which is a short distance away. I make it no problem.

    On a side note the car has been trouble free until last month when the front end was making noises while turning. Turned out it needed strut bearings, it took a while to fix because to quote the dealer he had to take the whole front end apart. Whether this relates to the A/C issues or not who knows.

    The dealer did call me yesterday and says he sees the problem with the A/C but has no idea why its happening and why the car would have shutdown like it did. He needs to do further testing....

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem with either the struts or the A/C?
  • j14152j14152 Posts: 6
    I have owned my base model 2007 GTI Turbo with DSG transmission, for less than 1000 miles and several months. I got a good deal, which was $2400 off the MSRP of $23,935, the bottom line price on the window sticker, with no dealer add-ons, no trade - a little better than 10% off.

    I am impressed with its power, handling, and soundproofing, After manual transmissions, the DSG is surely fun to play with. This car makes you want to drive fast by the way it feels, and I like that in a vehicle. But the car is not fully broken in yet, and I really haven't run it, or tried the "Launch Control" procedure in the owners manual. The seats are very comfortable for me, and I like the way they operate - power seats are unnecessary, IMO. The doors open almost ninety degrees. The ride is choppier than on other vehicles I've owned over small bumps and undulations, but that's fine with me, personally. Some might not like that.

    And - if you want some extra power, a turbo vehicle can be re-chipped relatively inexpensively. The factory has designed the powertrain for over 250 HP, whatever that means.

    I got mine with used, smoked tires, with chunked tread edges, and 30 miles on the OD. The dealer reluctantly replaced the tires, but won't even acknowledge that the car's service life has likely been compromised by that treatment (per the owners manual). I've filed a complaint with BBB, and we'll see what happens. I will either get a brand new car, or a full cash refund, or we'll resolve it in full civil court.

    I think I made a mistake buying this car, too. It's going to be a maintenance and repair nightmare, compared to the Honda products I've owned for 25 years. I never would have even thought of making this purchase without the four year warranty. Apparently, according to some of the forum comments, some dealers won't honor the warranty, and blame the owners for (excessive) quality control problems.

    I knew of VW's (legendary) unreliability and mechanical weakness before I bought this vehicle. Over time, I had advised lots of folks not to consider a VW purchase. I usually keep my vehicles, but I saw selling my VW under warranty as an "early out". It didn't take me very many days of ownership to know I had to sell it before the warranty expires, because I don't want to have to afford to keep it running!

    A seat handle fell off before I even touched it. Sometimes the power windows won't move while driving. All of the mirrors are a bit small, and right quarter visibility is almost non-existent for me, anyway. A few times, the computer-controlled DSG shifting and downshifting "misbehaves", for the want of a better way to describe some unusual shifting behavior, and sometimes it's response is sluggish. The door panel was scuffed before delivery, and I didn't see it until afterward. The upholstery is going to be a real bear to keep clean. The cup holders are almost non-existent, and there is no logical place to put a decent aftermarket cup holder. Armrest and compartment storage is minimal and limited. There is really no place for coins, toothpicks, or other small items.

    If you remove the battery, (to install the vacuum-boost gauge that should have come with the car), or the battery goes dead (because someone didn't hear the headlight chime with traffic going by), the airbag warning light will need to be reset at the dealership (and you're not supposed to charge the battery yourself, either). Lots of other ECU fault memories will also be triggered.

    Or - you will need a laptop computer and the Ross-Tech VAG Com diagnostic connector and software, and the Bentley repair manual, and the skill to use it, to do this yourself. Same with the service interval indicator. Without this extra $1000 of equipment, you are almost married to a dealership for as long as you own this vehicle.

    (BTW - with this Ross-tech software, you can slightly change the Speedo ratio, to match your GPS reading, which is very accurate).

    Then, lots of other stuff is quirky, like the parking light switch, which doesn't work the lights like any other car I've owned in forty years. It makes this sucking, groaning sound if you get into the boost range, which I see as anything BUT cool. The mileage sucks (about 22 mpg average, driven easy) compared with EPA mileage specs of 25-32 city-highway. The gauge lighting is beautiful, but it's trashed with a bright, non-dimmable red LED computer display in the middle of the instrument panel. The radio is a LCD display that can't be read easily during the day, especially while wearing sunglasses. What a design clash!

    The black strip paint around the B pillar is soft, and easily scratched or marred. The armrest will break if you lean too hard on it when iots extended. If someone backs into you, very easy, the shiny black area on the front bumper will show it. It's going to be almost impossible to clean the bugs off of the front hex grille areas.

    Oil changes are full synthetic, with oil meeting VW's 502.00 (euro) specs, which is hard to find in the US. The oil filter is a replaceable element filter, costing maybe $10-$14, not the spin-on type. Changing the transmission fluid and filter is an ordeal, costing $200+ at the dealership. Fluid - $15.00 per quart, or liter, I'm not sure which. Filter - $50 or thereabouts.

    My Integra GSR never got less than the City EPA mileage, and I never worried about how I used the gas pedal on that car, because it didn't make that much difference in the mileage. It has cost me almost nothing in extra, non-maintenance parts for the 12 years I owned it - a new thermostat & gasket, a radio antenna, and a few rubber boots and parts.

    It could have been worse - I could have paid another 10 grand for the Audi, which is the same basic car wearing a different set of clothes, wiht the same basic quality and reliability problems.

    Still, this is a fun car to drive!
  • j14152j14152 Posts: 6
    I think it is just fine to change the oil when you get home. A 3000-5000 mile oil change, under this interstate service, is just throwing your money away. VW's service interval is 10K on my 07 GTI, after the first 10000 miles.

    Your mileage will be highway mileage which is easy miles.
    With most any other car, using non-synthetic oil, a factory service interval under these conditions is 7500 miles.

    I have changed my oil at 3000-4000 miles, typically, with "intermediate" service (not "normal" service, and not "severe' service). This is overkill. But paying $1 per qt, and buying a $3 filter, which sometimes I do not change - who cares - change it anyway if it's convenient. With a $40-60 oil change, and full synthetic oil, away from home - it changes the picture a bit.

    Maybe 10-15 years ago, Consumer Reports bought a dozen Slant Sixes, brand new, from Chrysler Corp. Then they took them apart and carefully measured and spec'ed them.

    Then (after reassembling them), they put 10 of them into taxi service in New York City, and changed the oil at 5000 mile intervals for 60,000 miles, then they took them apart and measured them again. The results -no measurable wear on any of these engines.

    They put the other two engines into the same service, but changed the oil at 12,000 mile intervals. This time they measured some significant wear.

    What this says, is that 3000-5000 mile oil changes are typically being very, very good to your vehicle. Elsewhere, I have come across some reliable comments that anything less than a 5000 mile interval is throwing your money away, supporting the above.

    A 6000-7000 mile interval, at mostly highway speeds, with full synthetic oil, with very little use of turbo boost and heat effects, especially with synthetic oil, certainly cannot hurt a GTI's engine, or any modern turbo engine, for that matter.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Posts: 3
    I loved loved loved my car from when I got it in Dec to last week. My 2007 VW GTI with less than 12,000 miles had trouble starting in the morning last week. This has happened once before. I got not quite a mile away after it finally started when the engine light came on. I was on hold for service at the local dealership 30 seconds later stopped at a red light. When the light changed, the car went about 7ft into the busy intersection and just died. It would not start and I had to get help pushing it into a parking lot. After being towed to dealership, they said the fuel pump was bad and needed to be replaced. Problem is, one can't be located apparently in the county or in any other right now. I have been w/out my car for a week and am waiting to hear back on my request for the dealership to rob a new car for it's fuel pump and send it back to vw heaven so I can have my car back. I have owned at least 10 hondas in my life and loved everyone of them. I recommend people in the market really listen to owners that warn of these continuous problems. I wished that I had. :sick:
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    if you owned nothing but hondas and have previously heard the 'problems' why did you buy a vw?

    did you take it to the dealer to get it checked the first time you had trouble? what about oil changes and service?

    such an iffy post...pretty common around these parts i guess.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Posts: 3
    I bought in December of '06 before there was much out there about the new GTI's. At that point it was pretty much positive. I had to wait a month to get the 4dr exactly like I wanted it with the DSG, no leather, no nav. As for oil changes I just had my second one. Dealer recommends every 5000 miles, so I forked over the $80 or so already twice. I did here back from them yesterday after my post and apparently my fuel pump is on back order with no ETA. Has anyone heard of trading a car in while in service? They say it could be weeks before I get it back...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    11th commandment:

    Thou shalt not purchase a new car early in production cycle, lest one desires to become a beta tester for the automotive industry...

    So let it be written... :shades:
  • extech2extech2 Posts: 120
    Do you get a free rental car while waiting for parts? If you don't the least they should do is extend your warranty coverage by a month or two as a form of compensation. I replaced hundreds of fuel pumps on Hondas, but seldom on a car with less than 40 thousand miles. Fuel pumps are not serviceable items and they can go out like a light bulb, without any indication of trouble. Good luck to you.
  • flynngirlflynngirl Posts: 3
    Actually the dealership did provide a loaner which I've put over 1000 miles on already due to some necessary small trips. They gave me a new Jetta and they were fairly easy to work with. I will ask for the extension on warranty, however-a really good idea. They said they expect the pump to be in sometime this week...thanks for the advice.
  • Hello Forum! First of all, this is a great place for info From buying to owning to selling. I love this place.

    I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.

    It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.

    I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.

    Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

    Thanks in advance for any help!!
  • extech2extech2 Posts: 120
    My guess it's a bad tire - possible thread separation. Try this on a road with no traffic: accelerate to 40 mph, put it in neutral, and shut off the engine for a few seconds. Your power steering and brakes won't work so be careful. If you still hear it start looking at tires and driveshafts.
  • I own a 1986 VW GTI with about 270k miles on it. Recently I killed the engine in first gear (not a very rough kill) at a stop line in a mall parking lot, and the engine refused to re-start. The starter and engine turned, but the engine would not start. after checking the spark plug I discovered that the engine was not flooded. (the plug had a light grey frost on it, indicating a lean fuel mixture) I plugged in the cold-start valve, and the engine reluctantly started up, but the temperature guage was pegged, and the light was flashing. I drove the car about 6-7 blocks home. During this 3-4 minute drive, the engine was making stressed whining noises, and seemed to be having a hard time. When I arrived at my driveway I promptly turned the engine off to allow it to cool off. I opened the engine compartment. The radiator was very warm. I returned to the cockpit, and turned the key into the 'on' position. The electrical systems in the engine went crazy, including the stereo, the dome light, the diagnostic lights, the gear lights, etc. seemingly the entire electrical system in the vehicle. I returned to the engine compartment and jiggled lights with no result. Frusterated, I allowed the engine to cool for about 25-30 minutes. The next attempt to start the vehicle was successful, and all electrical problems had vanished, except for the temperature guage, which was flashing and pegged instantly. The engine compartment however was not hot, and the engine seemed to be running fine except for a faily loud tick, which slowly got quieter, and eventually vanished. the radiator never overheated dispite the guage indication, and the fan was operating properly. After about 15 minutes the engine was running better than it had all week, leaving me totally baffled.

    Anyone know how to explain all this stuff?

    Thanks in advance,

  • 'jiggled lights' should be 'jiggled wires'
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    could it be the simple fact that it has 270k on it?
  • extech2extech2 Posts: 120
    My first guess it's a bad ground wire connection in the engine bay or under the dash
  • Thanks for posting this.

    The nightmare memories of my wife's 99 Carbio have been fading and I found myself considering a new 4-door GTI with the DSG.

    Thanks for the reality check.

    I must always always that even though they are appealing in many ways, VW's are junk.

    To quote "The Who" We Won't Get Fooled Again
  • paimonpaimon Posts: 3
    Be warned:

    Back in 2000, I bought a new GTI which was nothing but problems: clutch went out at 40,000 miles, glove box hinge broke twice, power window went out three times (the same plastic retainer clip snapped each time), both headlamps and most other exterior bulbs burned out, CD player went on the blink, AC would stop sporadically, turbo valve malfunctioned, etc.

    I had all maintenance done at the dealership and never abused the vehicle.

    I got desperate when the dealer advised me that the part required to repair my inoperative window -- stuck in the down position for the third time -- would not be available for weeks due to inadequate supply, and they could offer no further assistance. (Guess they thought I could just tape some trash bags over the opening.) I had to call the regional manager, who forced the dealer to order the part. I finally got everything repaired and traded in for a 2003 WRX. After 100,000 miles (same clutch, same brakes, no significant problems), I traded for a 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 (a few electrical problems at the onset, but no big deal). The WRX and Speed 3 were a little more expensive, but far superior in performance and reliability.

    After I traded the GTI, I got a notice about a lawsuit regarding faulty VW windows for 1998-2002 models. This means that VW had known about the problem (a plastic, not metal, clip was used to connect the glass to the window motor) for several years, but did nothing until they were sued.

    The bottom line is that VW, at least in 2000, made a grossly deficient, unreliable vehicle which looked good in the showroom but did little else. Based on some of the posts here, it seems that little has changed. While enthusiasts (like the folks in the automotive press) will tout the brand's European flair, performance edge and creature comforts, these aspects will never compensate for the cost and frustration of VW ownership.

    No warranty will restore the hours spent waiting at the repair shop or rental office, and no reimbursement will provide a sense of confidence in the vehicle overall. It's a shame, since my GTI, at a cost of $21,000, could have been the best $22,000 car on the road. VW simply chose to skimp on functional parts while adorning the cabin for test drive appeal. So, potential VW buyer, my advice to you is to fully evaluate offerings from Subaru, Mazda or other reliable brands before buying VW.

    You should have confidence in your new vehicle, and reliability concerns can ruin all the fun.

    Good luck, and safe motoring.
  • ambrockedambrocked Posts: 9
    Hi. I have a '97 GTI, and I've noticed that when I run the A/C for extended periods of time (over an hour or so) water starts to pool onto the floor on the passenger side. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and/or maybe knows how to fix it? Thanks much!
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