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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • gsfr659gsfr659 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 QC 4.7 4x4 and recently recieved a letter from the local dealer that there was a recall on the switch that requires you to depress the brake to remove the vehicle from park. They said it was a safety hazard. I've had no problems with mine though.
  • I have a 1999 Dakota Sport, 2WD. It has been serviced and rebuilt once already. Since the rebuild if I leave the truck sit for 7 days or so, I notice a puddle of tranny fluid under it. It continues to grow to a sizable puddle. My mechanic tells me if a Dakota is left to sit for several days the fluid drains down to the pan and comes out through a valve. i have never heard of a transmission not being a sealed system. Should the transmission be leaking if left unused? Also, it has a tendancy to shift very hard into gear at 32 mph. If I accelerate quickly is seems to shift smooth. If I drive slowly it gets to 30 or 32 and really strains to shift. Any ideas??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You did not mention if it was the TRANSMISSION which was rebuilt or not... but obviously the xmission is not right.

    NOTE: Make absolutely CERTAIN that only the proper Dodge-specified fluid is used in your xmission. Using something like Dexron (GM fluid) has been known to destroy the valves/clutches in a Dodge xmission.

    There are reams of reading on the internet which explain why using the wrong fluid in a Dodge automatic xmission can damage the valves/clutches. Essentially, the design of Dodge xmissions expects a certain 'friction coefficient' and using the wrong fluid can cause hard-shifting until the xmission self-destructs.

    Unfortunately, just adding the correct fluid will not fix a leak. :cry:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Let me guess. The guy that told you that drives a chevy or a Ford!

    There is no such "valve" that releases fluid from any Chrysler built transmission onto the ground. Fluid should not be leaking from the transmission for any reason. Next time you're at a Dodge dealer look under every Dodge truck, Dakota or RAM, and see if there's tranny fluid under them. Some of these trucks sit in one spot for weeks or months.

    I'm assuming this is an automatic transmission. If fluid is leaking from the transmission it is not normal. There are a number of areas of the transmission that have a potential for leaking, including the rear output shaft seal, shift lever pivot shaft, throttle valve pivot shaft, front seal, or the transmission oil pan, just to name a few.

    If this transmission has been apart by somebody, check to see if there is a transmission pan gasket installed. A gasket is not used by Chrysler on automatic transmission pans because they eventually leak. Chrysler uses RTV sealant from the factory and that's what I use. Mine or any I've done have never leaked. (Chrysler part number 05010884AA.)

    Most aftermarket transmission fluid filters include a gasket. Most of these that I've seen are compressed cork and rubber composition. Cork swells and eventually displaces the rubber component, rendering small voids that absorb fluid causing the ATF to wick out. Also, when a gasket is used the oil pan bolts will have a tendency to loosen over time because you cannot properly torque the pan bolts down without overtightening the gasket and crushing the material. This can accelerate a leak.

  • Hi, I am new member and from Canada, hope some one can give an advise about the transmission, I recently brought a used 05 Dakota SLT 4.7 V8 with 186 thousand k on it, the truck run great until recently weather change to cold, it happened once a while at the cold morning or even afternoon nice temp. the tranny seen to be not engage at least the first 10-20 second, than it run great, but it only happened once a while, doesn't metter cold or warm, any help. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    If you have a Dakota (or a Jeep or RAM, for that matter) with a 4.7 engine, you also have the 545RFE automatic transmission. This transmission has a reputation for being exceptionally reliable and trouble free. The only cause I've seen or heard of that causes delayed engagement is a defective Cooler Return Filter. There was an approximate four month period of time that Cooler Return Filters were defective from the component manufacturer. This is covered in Chrysler Technical Service Bulletin 21-015-05 as follows:

    "The customer may experience an initial delayed shift engagement following an extended off (not running) period of time, generally after being parked overnight.The initial shift engagement may feel like a delay or slip when a transmission gear (reverse or drive) is first selected after engine start.

    The customer may not have experienced the delayed shift engagement until after the transmission has been serviced, where the cooler return filter was replaced during the service and/or repair.

    The condition is not detrimental to the transmission but may cause concern with the customer. The above condition may be caused by a suspect cooler return filter a part number of 04799662AB. This “AB” suffix / level filter may allow transmission fluid to drain back out of the torque converter. The drain back condition may occur over a period time when the engine (and transmission) are not running. With less fluid in the torque converter a delay in gear engagement may occur at engine start up while the torque converter fills to its proper fluid level.

    All 04799662AB cooler return filters with the “AB” suffix are suspect. The above condition may be corrected by replacing a suspect “AB” filter with a new cooler return filter whose part number is 04799662 (with no suffix or with a suffix that is other than the “AB” level).

    NOTE: The cooler return filter, p/n 04799662, will not be available until September 09, 2005. The filter part number is stenciled on the side of the filter

    NOTE: A replacement 04799662 cooler return filter may come packaged with a
    separate threaded adapter stud. The threaded adapter stud is used to attach the cooler return filter to the transmission. Inspect the stud and note end without threads. Install the stud end without the threads into the cooler return filter and tighten the stud-to-filter connection to 18.6 Nm (165 in. lbs.). Once the threaded adapter stud has been installed to the cooler return filter, install the assembled cooler return filter to the transmission and tighten the filter to 14.1 Nm (125 in. lbs.)."

  • Thanks and very appreciated, I will look in to it, my guess is last owner might be just get a after market cooler filter.
  • We are looking to purchase a 96 Dodge Dakota V6 Transmission for our son. One owner, very clean, low mileage. Unable to talk to the previous owner (has passed away) but did speak to his son who said there were no problems that he was aware of but admitted to limited knowledge.
    The check engine light is on and it's sending a code of 1762. The code indicates three possibilities and all three have been checked/changed. First they replaced the PCM, then they ran a pressure test which came back normal and finally replaced the governor sensor. The light is still on.
    Does anyone have any ideas of what this might be? I don't want to buy the truck even though we're getting a really good deal if we're buying a big bunch of trouble. All input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I looked up the code 1762 and it came back as "The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations."

    This is a TRANSMISSION code... not the engine. It sure sounds to me as if somone has been "shotgunning" the problem by blindly replacing parts.

    If it were me, I would first replace the xmission fluid (and all filters) to ensure it has only the Dodge-specified fluid in it. (Using Dexron (GM) fluid is known to cause problems in Dodge xmissions.)

    Of course... to replace the "governor pressure solenoid and sensor (transducer)." the filter and fluid should have also been changed.

    If that does not help.. then a transmission-shop that has the equipment to read the datastream while driving should be able to isolate the trouble.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Exactly how many miles are on this vehicle?

    Has this vehicle sat for a prolonged period, or had infrequent use?

    How does it Drive? How are the shifts?

    How is the park-to-drive or nuetral-to-drive engagement? Is it harse?

  • Hi... I just bought a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport. 105000 miles, 3.9L magnum, automatic transmission. I got too good of a deal on it even if it needs a tranny rebuild. When the truck is cold it does not shift into second without with RPM's hitting 4000. It is almost as if it will not shift into overdrive. It is not consistent when it does this. The check engine light is not on. After driving about 10 minutes it starts shifting normally and drives great. I have checked all fluids and they are good. The guy I got if from put some Lucus transmission "stuff" in it and really no change. I have found no leaks. I have done some research but want some more opinions. Govenor Pressure Solenoid?? or Speed Sensors?? In low and High Gear (1 and 2) truck runs and shifts fine.
    Thanks, first_truck :(
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    A binding or loose Throttle Position Cable can cause this, or a weak or missing Throttle Return Spring.

    I highly recommend that you get that Lucas stuff out of there. Mopar automatics use a special ATF (ATF+4) that can be easily destabilized by incorrect or incompatible fluids.

  • I have a 2003 quad cab with auto transmission. If I depress the throttle hard in order to pass or climb a hill the transmission seems to go into nuetral and the engine rpms peg. When I release the throttle, the transmission goes back into gear. Is this some type of safety feature or is there a problem?
    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Is it a V6 or V8?

  • Thanks so much, will do.
  • Weird right!

    I've owned my 3.9L V6 2000 Dodge Dakota 2WD since buying it brand new in well 2000. Over the last three years or so once in awhile while making a left turn the tranny (automatic) will slip out of gear and hesitate. I've gotten used to it and it doesn't seem to really harm the truck but I'd like to fix it if possible to prolong the life of the truck. I intend to replace the throttle position sensor as I've read on here to see if that works but I wanted to see if anyone else on here was having a similar issue.
  • Dusty
    It is a V6
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    Sorry about the late response.

    You have a 42RE transmission.

    Based on your description of the symptom I would say there is a problem. Some possibilities are list as follows:

    *Low fluid level or foaming (possible transmission overheating)

    *Clogged transmission filter

    *Clogged cooler lines

    *Throttle Position Cable misadjusted

    *Gear shift linkage out of adjustment; kinked or binding shift cable

    *Partially restricted Anti-drain Back Valve (excessively dirty fluid)

    *Low hydraulic pressure caused by a weak pump, Valve Body malfunction or warpage, leaking clutch or ring seals, leaking Servo.

    *Rear Clutch malfunction;worn clutch or leaking clutch seals.

    Valve body wear is usually found on high mileage vehicles. Sticking valve body components usually indicate expired or very dirty ATF. Rear clutch wear at lower mileage usually indicates that the transmission had been overheated at one time, probably from pulling an excessively heavy load or towing with the overdrive engaged, or pulling heavy loads/towing in hilly country with the overdrive engaged.

    This is also one of the classic symptoms in Mopar transmissions where the incorrect transmission fluid was used, probably Dexron-Mercon. All Dodge trucks and most Chrysler-built cars require ATF+3 (older vehicles) or ATF+4. Your's requires ATF+4.

    Good luck and best regards,
  • Hey I think I have a huge problem. i have a 99 Dodge Dakota 5.2l 4x4 it has about 117000 miles on it. some times when you take off from a stop it acts like it is in neutral then it will jump hard in to gear. It also pulses when driving down the highway the problem is intermittent. The pulsing is slow like every 10 to 15 seconds the RPMs will jump about 500 to 750. The transmission also slips some times when it shift. Is this something I can fix my self or should i take it in. I have about two years of automotive schooling. But I am a college Student and Broke.
  • Hi, I'm new here and I sure hope you can help me... I just bought a 94 Dakota Ext, cab with the 3.9L V-6 and automatic trans. When I bought it, I drove it home and everything seemed fine as far as shifting... After about a week, it got to where it would shift fine when cold, but after the truck warmed up, it didn't want to shift out of 2nd. But you could sometimes manually shift it and it would go threw the shifts. Then it got to where it just didn't want to come out of second at all. I figured it was the filter picking up slug as it heated up, and restricting the filter. So I changed the filter and fluid. (I used the ATF+4, right?). Shifted fairly good for a couple of days, and the more I drive it the better it shifts. Now it seems to be doing fine except for... Now the darn thing doesn't go into overdrive... At all... I'm just a backyard mechanic, and not at all a transmission guy... What would cause it to not go into overdrive, when it was when I first bought it about a month ago... Help please...
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The symptoms seem to indicate a possible intermittent loss of hydraulic pressure, although there are quite a few other possible explanations. Because of the age and mileage...coupled with lack of proper have a restricted flow problem. Potential candidates are a partially clogged transmission filter or cooling lines, or a clogged anti-drain back valve.

    Of course, you could also have a weak of bad pump, bad seals, or rear clutch problems.

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on this truck?

  • 133,000. It is shifting fine now with the new filter and fluid, but will not go into overdrive...
  • If you have not already repaired your transmission problem...or been gouged with a full transmission rebuild...your problem is one that I have experienced with two Dakotas I've owned.
    The overdrive problem can be solved by having a reputable transmission shop pull the overdrive unit and change out the two bearings in the unit.The whining noise is caused by pitting on the bearing races. If you drive the vehicle too long, you can freeze up the bearing and cause a full rebuild of the overdrive unit that costs in the range of $1200. Change out of the bearings, inspection, clean-up, and changing out the three sensors should be less than $600.
    Hope this time.
  • I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2, 2wd, 160k miles with an automatic transmission. For quite some time I've been noticing a shift quality issue that only occurs between 2nd and 3rd gear when the transmission is cold. When the tranny is cold, and the weather is cool, the engine revs quite high for quite a while before the truck will shift from 2nd into 3rd gear. the colder the weather, the higher and longer the motor will rev before shifting. The truck shifts perfectly after the truck is warmed up (after 5 miles or so of driving).

    I've changed the transmission fluid and filter, and have also changed the output speed sensor on the advice of some folks, but neither step resolved the problem. The fluid change did help a little, but it hasn't resolved the problem.

    I did note during the fluid change there were some very small black particules suspended in the fluid as well as some very fine metal particles stuck to the magnet in the bottom of the transmission pan. I belive the fluid was last changed about 100k miles ago, so the fluid didn't seem too bad considering.

    Any ideas on what might be causing this? I'm really hoping this is a simple fix so I can avoid a costly transmission service here...

  • I posted on here a few years ago and still have the same problem. 93 dak 3.9 auto with 160k on it. It runs fine and shifts fine except when you have to pass it won't kick down. You can manually downshift and it works. I changed the fluid and filter right after I bought it. This is a 3rd vehicle for me and doesnt get used much at all except to haul things. I did replace the atf with the wrong type but it did the same before that. I am going to replace it again with the correct atf+4 and filter since the fluid looked brown and dirty. Anything to check while I am in there? The od works but you cannot manually shut it off at the switch, it is definitely NOT the switch as I replaced with a known good one. When you do hit the button, it seems to rev up a few like it is trying to kick out but then drops back into OD. The cable is adjusted properly. Had a guy in town drive it that rebuilds trannies for a living. He didnt think the tranny was bad per se, might be a valve body sticking or dirty??? Can't stick alot of money into it as its a spare but need it to be reliable. TPS? Od solenoid? It just doesn't have any downshifting ability. PLEASE ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • My 2004 Dakota 4X4 has 193,000 kms (about 125,000 miles) on it. when I stop at a stop sign or stop light I have to manually shift to first gear or the truck will rev. high. 2nd and third are the only gears that work when it does this, first and overdrive don't work. If I restart the truck the problem clears. I took it to a transmission shop they could not find anything physically wrong with the tranny, they suggested it was electrical. I had the fluid and both filters changed,was okay for three days then started again, when the tranny was being flushed the tech. said the pump was real slow. Is there a sensor that could be bad or may be the pump is going?
  • UPDATE..........Ran seafoam tranny cleaner before the flush. Replaced filter and flushed out all the old fluid, replaced with walmart atf4. Has never worked better!!! Now it downshifts and upshifts in all gears and OD now can be turned on/off. I am truly a believer in the flush and refill with atf+4. :shades:
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