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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

145791021

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    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    I believe the 92 at the very least should be the same trans (Dusty will probably verify or correct me on that), but as for the price, I am not surprised Parts will always be worth more than the assembled vehicle. That 92 might make an excellent "parts counter" for you.

    kcram - Pickups Host
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    gaultneygaultney Member Posts: 1
    1999 Automatic - All gears are working fine, except reverse. Suggestions needed
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, you're going to have a 4-speed RH series in any year from '91 through '93. However, I think you'll find either a 44RH or a 45RH in a '93, with the possibility of a 46RH if it has the optional heavy duty transmission. The model series should be clearly visible as raised letters/numbers on the side of the transmission bell housing. In practical terms these transmissions would be interchangeable as far as physical requirements (bell housing bolt pattern, tailstock length, etc.) and would connect mechanically. Technically, however, there are differences in gear ratios and kick-down operation depending on the factory supplied rear axle ratio.

    If you are willing to tackle something like this yourself you're fortunate that Dakotas are fairly consistent in parts usage and mechanical arrangement. The thing that needs to be considered is the condition of any used transmission. Over the years I've seen some situations work out okay, but a lot that didn't last long. If you need to keep the cost down you should be aware of the risk in using a part with no knowledge of usage, service or repair history.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It is always helpful to know the engine, mileage, and service history of the transmission. However, in general the possibilities are as follows:

    *Gear selector out of adjustment

    * Rear band loose (adjustment)

    * Throttlebody malfunction (dirty or worn)

    * Broken or severely worn rear band

    *Defective or inoperative front clutch

    *Overdrive thrust bearing failure

    Regards,
    Dusty
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    lowrange01lowrange01 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem as dodge01driver a year ago. Stealthb2 posted pics on this site, which evidently helped to remedy the problem. I cannot find the member page for stealthb2 for the pics. If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. BTW, it is unusally cold (15-20 deg) tonight, and I have tried rocking the truck; with the key in on position, but not running; and with the engine running. The truck is still stuck in the garage. Thanks.
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    shislopshislop Member Posts: 3
    Dusty, thanks for the info on the auxilary Trans cooler. Bought the Dakota. Mine does not have Aux. cooler. The Dealer put on the Factory hitch and wiring but no trany cooler. I will be towing 5500lbs a few times a year 200 to 300 miles. Should I buy an after market cooler? Any recomendations?
    Thanks
    Steve
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    colkd2002colkd2002 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dakota Sport Quad Cab. 4.7 L V8 Automatic with 108,000 miles. Lately I have been having problems with the truck getting stuck in park. When I start the truck, I can't get it to shift out of park. If I take out the Trans Pos Ind Fuse(Fuse #8) and put it back in then it will sometimes switch over to neutral and then back to park. If I time it right then I can get it out of park. After I manage to get it out of park it will shift through every gear including park until I shut the truck off. Then it will do it all over again. Any Ideas?
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    lowrange01lowrange01 Member Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem last week, when it was real cold. My V8 Dakota is an '02 also, and has 102k on it. After reading the posts here, I removed the steering column cover(s). Then, I could see the lever mechanism, and I lubed it up good with Lithium grease. It started working right away. It had warmed up to about 40 deg by then, so that may have helped as well. BTW, it has been working fine since then.

    One other thing to check though. When you have the cover off, you can see the black brake relay amidst the column wires. Press the brake with your hand, and make sure you hear the relay click. If it is not working, the shift lever lock won't release. You can push it free with your finger, according to one of the earlier posts in this thread.

    Stealthb2 had some pics of this(read earlier posts). BTW, thanks Stealthb2. All your info was very helpful. And thanks to Dodge01driver also, for your offering help.
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    yeltaryeltar Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Dakota, 4.7L V8. I have a similiar issue with the transmission getting stuck in park. I just figured out that the relay is what is causing the bind. Typically it will bind if you try to shift without depressing the brake first. Once it binds it seems almost impossible to get it to release. If you remove the lower dash panel (3 screws on the bottom and to pull pins under the steering wheel) you will find a black relay attached to a black cable. This relay engages a pin that locks the shift lever in park. You can do 3 things to fix it, 1: wiggle the relay, press the brake with your hand and it should free up, 2: disconnet the relay then it doesn't bind anymore but will shift freely without pressing the brake when the vehicle is running, 3: replace the relay, but just from my stance it looks a lot harder to replace because of its location than to just disconnect it.
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    w9awxw9awx Member Posts: 3
    I'd check the throttle position sensor. 45-55 is usually where these things start to act up when they start failing.
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    coxjcoxj Member Posts: 4
    I replaced plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor with original parts. It is running perfectly now. The previous owner had installed after market no-name crap.
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    coxjcoxj Member Posts: 4
    It wasn't the transmission. I replaced plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor with original parts. It is running perfectly now. The previous owner had installed after market no-name crap.
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    cjaxcjax Member Posts: 2
    New to the site as of yesterday. I had been fighting what I thought was a "slipping transmission" on flat roads once up to speed and cruising. Constantly revving up 200-400rpms and driving me crazy thinking the tranny was about to go. (2001 QC 4x4 SLT Sport auto customized).
    Anyway, took a shot yesterday replacing the TPS, and had ZERO slips on the way to work this morning. I drive 95 miles a day at least, and it was slipping 20-30 times a each way. This was a huge relief.
    Thanks again to everyone on here for you help.
    :shades:
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    dbrojondbrojon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 dakota 2wd pickup was having problems drive a couple of blocks and it would stop going park it for a while and it would go a couple more blocks and stop.
    I changed filter and fluid And while I was There I adjusted the Band to HAYNES specs and now it only goes foward and the fluid get real HOT what is wrong or is it time for a new tranny
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    dawg6dawg6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 dakota--my owners manual says that at ambient temperatures below -4. the trans mission will NOT go in to O.D. I live in Minnesota so this is a real problem for me. I'm trying a new TPS , and new plugs-cap-and wires. I've read in these forums this has helped.
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    usmc77usmc77 Member Posts: 1
    Seems to have hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd gears.; Youi hear high revs , although once motor warm high pitch rev goes away.

    Thank for any help on this matter would be highly appreciated
    hank You
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    bzeiherbzeiher Member Posts: 4
    OK. I've been here before. so far I've changed my TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) and I have changed my ABS speed sensor. The replacement of the ABS Speed sensor had the biggest impact. The shifting to second gear while at a stop, stopped for a few weeks. While the shifting to second gear at a stop appeared to be fixed, now when coming to a stop (especially the last 15 – 20 feet) the ABS will engage. I have to let go of the brake peddle in order for the ABS to stop. Thirdly, now that it has been 5 weeks since the shifting to second gear at a stop has quit, it has returned. So now when I come to a stop, the ABS brakes engage 50% of the time when stop the last 15 – 20 feet and the transmission will shift to second gear at a stop 50% of the time. I’m getting desperate.

    Any ideas?

    Bill
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    redmongoredmongo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 dakota with 3.9,130,000 miles. recently started not wanting to downshift,now it won,t shift out of low,it also has reverse.the temp light has come on.I haven't noticed it slipping,but the fluid stinks!! Any ideas would be appreciated!
    Also,isn't there a way to check code with out a scanner? someone said something
    about turning the key a certain number of times to get code for tranny??
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    chevyman19chevyman19 Member Posts: 3
    I am told that when the battery is or has been disconnected for a time, the transmission needs to be relearned by the computer, sort of like a reboot.....tow the truck to a shop that has the computer diagnostic ability to enable your vehicle computer to relearn the transmission.....IF it has been the power disconnected for a time for perhaps a repair...WHEN did your transmission begin its problem?
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    dbrojondbrojon Member Posts: 2
    I AM LOOKING FOR305,307,327,350 TO FIT IN A 1891 CADILAC COUPE NUT HAVE MUCH LUCK LOCALLY
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    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Better place to ask would be the Engine Swaps discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host
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    freeshiftingfreeshifting Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 V8 and can shift out of park into reverse or drive without pressing on the brake, it has always been this way is it normal?
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    bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    All I have to do is press the clutch to shift... no need to press the brake. 8-)

    However, I beleive what you describe for an AUTOMATIC xmission is not right. As a safety-factor, most automatics have had the "press the brake to shift out of park" safety-feature since at least the 1990s. (or at least a button on the side of the shifter-knob to get it out of park)
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    freeshiftingfreeshifting Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information.

    You are correct I am describing my situation relating to an automatic transmission. Interesting my truck dash does not contain the statement "press brake to shift out of park" like I have seen on virtually every vehicle with an automatic transmission.

    I am trying to find out if this actual requirement or not, and if Dodge should be repairing it.
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    silverdak1silverdak1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 3.9L V6 and am about ready to change the ATF fluid. I just need to know the fluid capacity so I know how much ATF+4 to buy. Anyone know? Thanks.
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    cubanskycubansky Member Posts: 8
    If my memory serves me correct I used 5 to 6 quarts on my 2002 with a V8.
    But my advise to you is to buy the original Mopar fluid at the dealer because transmissions can act funny when something else is added.
    They can also tell you how many quarts it takes. It's also in the owners manual if you have it. Mine takes two filters but the auto parts only had one, you may want to check into that as well with your V6 at the dealer. Good luck
    Robert
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    baebaebaebae Member Posts: 1
    I have a great 91 Dakota ext. cab 4x4 V8 5.2 that runs great. All of a sudden one day it just stopped shifting into 4th gear overdrive. I changed the OD shut off switch still didn't work. So I changed the OD cylinoid and it still don't shift into OD. I shifts very smooth into 2nd and 3rd. Still runs the same just no overdrive. Any Ideas?? I need some help. :confuse:
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    jimloh75jimloh75 Member Posts: 1
    My 02 Quad Cab a few months ago had the 4 wheel drive quit working with the check trans. dash light on. The transmission works great otherwise. I am thinking it is it the switch, anyone have any ideas?
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    drukdruk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 with 10.000 on it the dealer has replaced the trans and torch converter, and still does not work right. I have sat at a red light and when it turned green the truck feels like i shifts through all the gears ans then just over revs to 5500 plus making me put in to park and then back to drive. some times its fine other time it mis shifts all over the place,
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    bethann1bethann1 Member Posts: 3
    I pulled up on a hill,put the truck in park got out and it rolled backwords.Allso it dont wont to shift to forth gear when its cold.Looking for some help.
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    1trkjon1trkjon Member Posts: 5
    Hi. I'm the proud new owner of a 2001 dakota sport quad cab w/ 96,500 miles on a 3.9 L V-8. I noticed a leak where the transmission meets the drive shaft. This is just minor,right? How bad could it be? Just give it to me straight doc, I can take it>
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    1trkjon1trkjon Member Posts: 5
    correction its a 3.9L V-6,oops.
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    scoopyexscoopyex Member Posts: 31
    rear tranny seal. about $8.00 at your local parts discount store.
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    1trkjon1trkjon Member Posts: 5
    thanks scoopyex, I hope thats all it is, seems to good to be true.thanks for quick reply,I put it in the shop tomorrow, will post back w/ good news hopefully.
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    1trkjon1trkjon Member Posts: 5
    I know it's corny but, Rear tranny seal $8.00, Labor $67.00, finding a mechanic you trust, Priceless. My Truck and I couldn't be happier.
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    dcregardcregar Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 dakota 3.9 v6, It had a 42rh, which I was rebuilding for a friend, but we came across a 42re from a 98 with about 42xxx on it, could you tell me what would be required to convert it, or is there a vb modificaton as far a changing the t/c lock up sol and the 3-4 sol. Im not opposed to swapping some parts. He does not have enough money to finish repairing the 42rh. If you could please be a tecnical as you can. Thanks much
    Dave
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    scoopyexscoopyex Member Posts: 31
    mechanical vs electronic versions. You'll need an ecu or some sort of wiring harness to make it work correctly
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    bpurcellbpurcell Member Posts: 1
    I have this exact same problem with my 1998 Dakota. Simply hates to shift when cold. Winds out and I have to pump the gas a number of times to catch the next gear. Once it warms up it shifts fine. A trans shop checked it out and told me it was a seal inside the trans that allows not enough or too much fluid by. They offered to fix it for $1200.00 (rebuild) but it sounds like bull to me. Any ideas?
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    scoopyexscoopyex Member Posts: 31
    I would get a second opinion. Typically the colder your fluid is, the better it's ability to seal. Your problem should get progressively worse as the atf in the transmission gets hotter and thinner. The only other thing may be the seals are heating up and creating a better seal. Again I would get a second opinion. Try warming your truck up in neutral (not park) when it's cold... about about 5 mnutes and see if that makes any difference. A shortcut may be just a simple fluid and filter change with genuine Chrysler atf.
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A sticking, mispositioned or out-of-adjustment Throttle Valve Cable can cause this problem, and in fact is fairly common. In addition, the return spring for the Throttle Valve Cable may be missing or stretched. The most common problem is a sticking pivot shaft at the transmission.

    To check it, start at the Throttle Body Lever bracket and follow the cable down to the side of the transmission. When the throttle is opened and released, the pivot shaft should return fully to its starting position from curb idle.

    Low or high fluid levels and a partially clogged filter can sometimes cause the same symptoms, especially in cold weather. There are other possible causes, such as bad electrical connections at the shift solenoids, etc.

    Regards,
    Dusty
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    bonnievbonniev Member Posts: 1
    My dodge dakota will not move when placed in reverse. it will however drive in neutral. it seems to be stuck in drive at all times. i have changed the oil and filter, looked underneath and nothing seems to be broken. it will only start in park and neutral. what can it be? :confuse:
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    dcregardcregar Member Posts: 2
    You have an issue with the valvebody, ;)
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    cabrecocabreco Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Dakota 4x4 5.2 ltr V8 with a 46rh auto trans. Since I bought this truck in 1999 it has always shifted oddly. The problem is that whether cold or hot the shift from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd ONLY happens when the truck's rpm exceed 4000. overdrive engages normally after that. The dealer said the trans was ok back when I bought it. I have read the TPS may have a hand in this and taking voltage readings it showed .83 volts at idle position and 3.7 volts at wide open throttle. The output voltage increased gradually as the throttle plate was slowly opened from idle to WOT. Those numbers I understand are within normal specs. I also flushed the entire trans and replaced the fluid (it had Dextron) with ATF+4. Other than the late shifting no other problems are present. Does anyone have any suggestions or had the same issue?
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    daniel8956daniel8956 Member Posts: 1
    My 93 dakota 4x4 when put into drive will not even attempt to move, but in reverse it has all the power in the world...it is the 4sp with o/d. happened all the sudden. was no slipping no nothing just went out and it will do no forward movement, can not even fill it surge or hear/ rpm change.. any ideas?
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    jnpicardjnpicard Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 dakota 5.2 4x4 auto. There's a couple of problems, don't know if their related. First there's a metallic whining from the the transmission that is fairly loud when in overdrive and lately its gotten worse. Recently the tranny started slipping when warm and get to the point of barely moving. Occasionally the speedo will spike over a hundred. When you shut it off for a few minutes, the truck becomes drivable then repeats later. I checked the transmission fluid when this happened and the dip stick was covered in bubbles and appeared over filled. After it was shut off for a few minutes the dipstick was clear of bubbles. Any advice would help. Thanks
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    brekdbrekd Member Posts: 2
    Hi Folks:

    I have a 1997 Dakota with the 5.2L and auto tranny. For some reason it is now not starting off in first gear. If I manually shift the auto into 1st gear, it starts off normally - no problem, the problem is it simply will not start off as it should in automatic mode, in first gear - it's starting in 2nd.

    Also, the "check engine light" has also just become illuminated.

    One more thing, although I live in FL, I drove this baby to California in November (ran great) however, the heat went out. Blower worked normally, just cool air. THe temperature of the engine was normal, and I had the radiator serviced so I'm confident all the fluid levels were good.

    I'd appreciate any help. This has been a solid truck for me all these years.

    Currently, it has just under 90k on the odo and I am the original owner.

    REgards,

    Brek
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    johnmulletjohnmullet Member Posts: 1
    I just recently got surprized when my 95 3.9L SLT desided to stop shifting into O/D and there isn't any good troubleshooting web sites out there to help me choose a starting point. I've looked over my Haynes Repair Manual and decided to talk to you folks first.
    I'm hoping someone has knowledge into the common causes of O/D failure, so I won't go on a long goose chase.
    Thank you for your help.
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    moongazrmoongazr Member Posts: 1
    I am currently in market for a Dakota and test drove a 2002 extended cab, 4 x 4, auto transmission. We noticed a noise when shifting from park to reverse or drive to reverse. The sound was kind of like a whirring noise, but nearly like a grind but not so metallic sounding. Anyone out there have any ideas? Is this a normal noise? I was fairly spooked by it and told the salesman I was not too interested, but wanted to have some more info.
    Thanks
    Mike
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    bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A lot of Dodge automatic xmissions sound like that when changing gear-selections. (Dakota, minivans, cars...etc) I understand this is a function of the design of the Dodge automatics. Somthing about as they enguage a gear-selection, the electro-hydrolic system calibrates itself. You may be hearing the solenoid-pack as it ripples thru and momentaraly enguages each solenoid.

    The sound I am describing only lasts about 1-2 seconds.
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    brekdbrekd Member Posts: 2
    Is the solenoid user replaceable? In other words is it inside the autotrans unit or is it outside of it? The reason I ask is I recently lost 1st gear in my 1997 5.2l. If I put it into "D" it starts in 2nd. However, if I manually select "1", it will operate in first.

    Hoping I can fix this myself. Any thoughts?

    Thanks

    Brek
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