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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • pappycpappyc Posts: 3
    1999 Dodge Dakota Auto. V6 4 x 4
    Stalls when engaging to reverse, when engine is cold. It is ok after driving 10 miles or so.. HELP
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Had you heard any strange noises from the truck recently?

    How many miles on the vehicle?

  • tonym5tonym5 Posts: 6
    The indicator for my auto trans does not highlight the "P" when I shift into Park. As a result, the truck won't start since it appears the trans is not in Park. If I push hard on the shift lever, the Park will highlight. Is there an adjustment to the linkage to allow it to go into Park easily
    Thanks for your past help. It saved me a lot of money.
  • Hi i had a 2001 Dakota Sport 4x4 4.9L with some tranny issues, i notice that over 70km/h when the overdrive comes on that it will randomly kick off and my RPM's surge up about 500rpm or so then the overdrive will re-enguage and then dis-enguace, this happens both on slight inclines as well as on flat stretches of road. I notice that if i keep the vehicle under slight acceleration this problem doesnt occur, its only when i try to maintain my speed. Is this the TPS or something else?

    Thanks for your time.
  • dervin1dervin1 Posts: 9
    What is the maximum pull weight for a 98 Dodge Dakota ext cab, with a 3.8 V6? I don't have a manual so I need to know.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    What gear ratio, 3.55 or 3.92? 4x2 or 4x4?
  • dervin1dervin1 Posts: 9
    I don't know. It isn't a 4 x 2 or 4 x 4. I am guessing a 3.55. What is the model of the transmission for this motor?
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    My sources only go back to 1999, which should be close. For a 3.9L, 4x4, it is 5000 lbs. It is 4800 lbs for a 3.9L, 4x2. Both are for automatic transmissions. Manual transmissions lower the rating by 500 lbs.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I find it interesting that a manual xmission LOWERS the tow-rating by 500 lbs. I know a guy that burned up automatic xmissions towing a bulldozer on a tripple-axle trailer (not with Dakota!)

    This same guy next orderd a MANUAL xmission (same type of Dodge ram truck)and never again had transmission issues while doing the same work that the automatic xmission whimped out on.
  • jlgilbertjlgilbert Posts: 1
    My 1999 Dodge Dakota (65,000 miles) has developed a significant transmission whine when in overdrive. Other than the noise, everything seems fine. I thought at first that it was the tires, so didn't pay a lot of attention. This has been going on for about 15,000 miles and nothing has fallen apart. Any observations or suggestions? Thanks,

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you certain it is the xmission and not the rear differential?
  • jknisleyjknisley Posts: 3
    Ihave a 2001 Dakota with the 42RE transmission. I took it to a Dodge dealer because the transmission was acting up. It would not stay in high gear on the road. It aways wants to downshift. I figured out the following.
    1. In O/D the transmission acts like it wants to downshift all the time.
    2. with O/D off the transmission shifts up to the next higher gear but does it slowly( high RPMS), if I shift it into nuetral and back to drive it shifts correctly.
    3. It always downshifts properly when I come to a stop with O/D off.
    4. Occasionally when I am stopped at a light it surges forward for a secon then stops

    I have been looking for the cause because I had taken it in to get the fluid replaced and the dealership told me the fluid was fine. Since it drives differently in O/D than without it I think it is electronic. I have read the TPS fix and taking the negative lead off the battery which I am trying now.

    Please let me know if anyone might know what is going on with my truck. I just bought it used a month ago and I love it but dont want to replace the transmission if I dont have to.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    TV Cable Adjustments (V6/V8 Magnum Engines)

    The transmission throttle valve is operated by the valve body throttle lever. The throttle lever is actuated by a cable connected to the engine throttle body lever. A lock button at the engine end of the cable provides for cable adjustment.

    A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable, will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever from the idle position. Proper adjustment allows simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to move ahead of, or lag behind the throttle body lever.


    Turn ignition key to OFF position.
    Remove air cleaner.
    Verify that throttle body lever is at curb idle position. Then verify that transmission throttle lever is also at idle (full forward) position.
    Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever.
    Compare position of cable end to attachment stud on throttle body lever:
    Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039 inch) in either direction.
    If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in following procedure.
    Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
    If both levers move simultaneously from idle to half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is correct.
    If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents transmission lever from returning to closed position, cable adjustment will be necessary.

    Turn ignition switch to OFF position and shift into Park.
    Remove air cleaner.
    Disconnect cable end from attachment stud on throttle body.
    Verify that transmission throttle lever is in idle (full forward) position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.
    Insert a small screwdriver under edge of retaining clip and remove retaining clip.
    Center cable end on attachment stud to within 1 mm (0.039 inch) and release cable button.
    Install retaining clip onto cable: housing.
    Check cable adjustment. Be sure transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously and as described in cable adjustment checking procedure.
  • scoopyexscoopyex Posts: 31
    there are no mechanical connections between the engine and transmission on late model Dakotas or Rams or any other vehicle with electronically controlled transmissions.. the transmission is electronically controlled via throttle position sensor. this information has been posted before and is only appropriate for older transmissions that require throttle cables that are controlled via carburators and throttle body type injection.. 2000 and up Dakotas are electronic, not mechanical.
  • jknisleyjknisley Posts: 3
    ok so now I have bought and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and it still is not shifting correctly. Was definately worth the try. There are three cables that come off of the Throttle. one heads down to behind the transmission and the others around the front. Since I posted the first question I have taken it to a local Dodge dealer. One of the mechanics was there when I was making an appointment and he suggested that one of the Solenoids in the valve body probably was the culprit. Today I got a Governor Sensor code on the OBDII reader so it is most likely the cause ( or a byproduct ) of what is going on. I am taking it in and letting the Dodge dealer see what is wrong.
  • I have had this truck for about 6 months i bought it with 98xxx miles and it now has 103xxx. It has a 5 speed manual and the first thing that started was a kind of metal scraping noise when I let the clutch out, but when I depressed the clutch the noise went away. I thought it was because I went mudding and got it in deep and maybe got the throw out bearing dirty. Well the noise went away for about 100 miles then now it is worse it squeals loud when depressed and the scraping noise is worse. Any one have an idea on what is wrong do I need to replace the clutch? :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    your description sure sounds like throwout bearing. Your thoughts about dirt getting into the bearing whilst in deep mud are also a possibility.

    This does NOT mean that the clutch needs to be replaced.... but it does not make sense to replace throwout bearing and not clutch while it is torn apart.

    It is also possible that a noisy throwout bearing can last a long time.... just spend as little time as possible with the clutch pushed. It is good driving-habit with manual trannie to NEVER sit still with clutch pushed... if you are not shifting, DONT have the clutch pushed.

    In many years of driving manual xmissions I have never EVER worn out a clutch nor throwout bearing. (To save the clutch, do not touch throttle pedal until AFTER enguging the clutch... it takes practice - but it is possible.)
  • Hey thanks for the tips, I am looking for a clutch now with a bearing in the kit, and will replace all when I take it apart. (I am glad to have joined this forum) thanks again will repost when complete. :)
  • dakudadakuda Posts: 1
    I'm new here, sure to be a regular. Got a 2000 dakota RT recently. The automatic transmission is on the fritz. It would hang between 2 and 3, I could shift it to neutral then back and it would move to 3 then 4. I did a complete fluid change today myself. There were no metal bits in the pan, lots of dust, clutch dust I guess, stuck to the magnet, looked like fur. Fluid was hazy and light red/brown. I filled with Castrol +4 synthetic, 10 or so quarts. I found a thin strip of material stuck in the old filter. It was 3/4 inch wide 5 inches long and as thin as a piece of masking tape, very brittle. The truck has about 75,000 miles on it. still seems to be slipping. Am I in trouble here?
    I appreciate any help.
  • scoopyexscoopyex Posts: 31
    Not sure what that strip would be... if I were you I would take the truck to a good tranny shop and let them give it a checkup. It might turn out to be some very cheap part that can easilly be replaced. It might be just a problem with the tps.. either way, before it goes from bad to worse, look into a tranny shop with a good reputation. check all of your electrical connections at the transmission and on your throttle body.. might just be a loose connection or one getting ready to lose connection for green death forming. if you seperate any connections, make sure any silocone boots are in tact, and smear some dialectric grease in the connectors. the film on your magnet is from normal wear and tear. if it looks like hair, it's metalic.. unless you're finding suspect metal, I wouldn't worry too much about the film on the magnet.
  • nsark74nsark74 Posts: 2
    It's is stuck in reverse but the shift selector seems to be in neutral. I am totally lost on this one, someone please help.
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota with 147,000 miles. Its a 4 banger with a 5 speed granny shifter on the floor. In really hot or really cold weather, It next to impossible to get into first gear. Can you tell me what the problem may be? Cant remember the last time any service was done to the tranny or if any is needed.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Not entirely true.

    The 42RE, 45RE, and 46RE transmissions use solenoids to shift gears in a normal upshift pattern, but utilize a Throttle Valve Cable to control part-throttle kick down and shift speeds. That is why Jknisley (post 167) has three cables at the throttlebody. One is the accerator cable, the second is the cruise control cable, and the third is the throttle valve contol cable.

    Only the 545RFE ("FE" = "fully electronic") does away with the Throttle Valve Control and relies solely on various electronic sensors for complete shift control.

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    We were heading out for a weekend camping trip this past Friday. I was cruising along in 3rd gear (5000 lb trailer in tow) when I came to a hill. The transmission (45RFE)shifted down into 2nd gear, then after about 1-2 sec, shifted back to third. The CEL light came on. The first thing I noticed was that the torque converter was no longer locking up. The next thing I noticed was that I no longer had second gear. I drove about another 20 miles to a place where I could pull off and check things. The error code extracted was a P0700, Transmission Control System Malfunction. I disconnected 12V power to the truck for 30 seconds and started things back up and everything was OK for the rest of the trip. The CEL cleared after about 3 or 4 start cycles. Obviously, something bad happened, but there was no mechanical damage as far as I could tell. Everything was fine on the trip home today.
  • I have a 2003 Dakota with the 5.9L magnum accompanied with the 46RE Transmission (we think) When I lay into it, it delays upshifting from 1st to 2nd and its the only gear it does it in....its a spoungy shift. When im in Cruise Control it feels like the Torque Converter is unlocking then immedietly locking back up. It's a very subtle feeling almost like I was tapping the brake ever so slightly. I have the DaimlerCrysler Service Manuel but me and my boyfriend couldn't find anything so I'm convinced Automatic Transmissions work on staight PFM. Anyone got an idea to point me in the right direction?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    This might seem quite like an incredulous implication, but how old is the battery in your Dak?

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    When you say that the "...delays upshifting from 1st to 2nd..." do you mean that your getting an upward flair in engine RPM before it engages second gear?

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319

    The battery is less than 6 months old. It's as if the transmission controller got into some anomolous state. I'm not sure if I was in a "limp" mode or not, since I don't know what the "limp" mode is like for a 45RFE.
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