When I went to leave work the other day my truck wouldn't start. I listened for the fuel pump to kick on and it didn't. I had previously had issues with the fuel pump relay, so I replaced this relay as a "hail mary" to save money hoping this wouold fix the problem, it did not. Since then I have replaced the fuel pump, traced the wires checking for breaks, and tried replacing those wires. So far nothing has worked. We can force power to the pump and get it to turn on but when you the turn the key on it doesn;t work.
I have just replaced my fuel pump on my 96 gmc 1500 it worked great for a few months but now when I start it and its running the fuel pump will not shut off .
Hello everybody I have a 98 chevy silverado with the 5.0 vortech engine. The problem i am having is that sometimes the truck will start but then immediatly stall. After about 10 minutes or so and after turning the key it will start and run as if nothing happened. Then it will be good for a while then out of nowhere the darn thing acts up again. I have noticed that when i cycle the key when I turn it on the fuel pump does not run then when I cycle it off the fuel pump comes back on. But when it runs it cycles normally. It is really starting to irritate me. Also my fuel gauge will bounce back and forth between empty and full all the time. PLEASE HELP!!! Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Had a '98 silverado with a 5.7 vortec. I think the fuel pump just quit without any teasing. The dealer fix is the complete fuel pump and sending unit as a single unit. Note that the new fuel level sending unit shows empty much sooner than the old unit. The fuel is still there, it just lies to you. Naturally, the tank was over three quarters full. They charge to transfer the fuel to a storage container and lower the tank to gain access to the opening for the unit. An independent shop is likely to replace just the fuel pump for less total labor. Hopefully the gauge issue is an electrical ground deal. Could also be what the fuel pump issue is too. I don't remember what the exact cost was, but it was significant. I would do independent shop. As it is, I had a transfer-flo tank installed in my newer truck and that becomes a non-dealer issue to start with. Actually, I don't think the whole transfer-flo upgrade was much more costly than the fuel pump deal on the '98. 45 gallons instead of only 26 helps get past the high prices in the boonies. Something to consider since you are facing the repair.
Ok, first thanks for this site!! I have read all through this forum but cant find my issue completely, i have a 03 2500 gas GMC of course.(236638 km) i turned a corner and it sputtered out and died, rolled into the lot shut it off then turned it over again but it would putt putt putt and die ( still electrical working) towed it home, then had same issues, now it just cranks but doesnt turn, I havent checked my fuel filter, but i have checked the pressure bleed fitting on passenger side of engine (look like a lil tire valve) there is a lil gas coming out. I read around and it said to remove the plastic hose from my fuel pressure regulator and gas came out for 5 secs and now nothing comes out. i cant get the lock clips off the vaccuum hose that attaches to it though. there is also no error numbers or check engine light, i am at a complete loss of ideas now.. Anyone with a similar problem thanks
I was not getting fuel. Pump was not running. I lifted the bed and pulled the pump. The pump wire had disconnected. The clip was soft. I think that over time the gas breaks down the plastic. I put a zip tie around the clip to assure it wont come off again.
My truck was running just fine no warning lights or messages pulling into the drive way and it stalled out. If I wait about 10 minutes it will start again and about 30 seconds later it will die out again. I let it sit over night and it ran for about two minutes and died again. I am somewhat mechanicly inclined but this just doesent make sense to me. Does anyone have an idea?
There are a bunch of sensors that monitor and adjust fuel, air, etc. I would start by checking both the throttle position sensor and the idle air controller. A failure of either one could cause the condition you describe.
Both are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace.
I am building a 72 nova in which I am planning on installing a 5.7 litre vortec out of a 97 silverado. I have the entire truck, so I plan on using the 460le transmission and the computer. Any suggestions on making this as painless as possible?
While driving, the truck stalled. I managed to get it started, but would only remain started as long as I gave it gas - full throttle. Stalled again, and this time it would start, but could not keep it started no matter how much I revved the motor. The injectors have been replaced, the filter was replaced and now the carb has been replaced. There is fuel going to the carb, but the injectors are not spraying. One may dribble a bit - we're at a lost.
I am in desperate need of help. Driving down the road and the truck died like I turned the key off. It wouldn't start had it towed home. The next day it started but died after warming up to temperature then wouldn't start til next day. We replaced the fuel pump. It started but died after a bit. No codes when put on machine. Very strange, anyone with any ideas?
I am on my 3rd Silverado in the past 10 years and have never had this problem. Truck is under 300 miles, since the first day it hesitates between 20 and 45 mph. It's at the dealer and their answer is it is shifting gears, that's just not true. Anyone have any ideas ?
I am having the same problem with my 2003 silverado 2500HD. I have put 3 fuel pumps, new filter, and pressure regulator in and once it warms up it justs dies and won't start. I need an answer so if you get one please advise us all. I am leaning toward crank position sensor??
We finally got some codes to come out after having a mobile mechanic with a fancier machine to come out for $75.00. He said it had several codes which it spit out, first being to replace the accelerator pedal position sensor. $63.00 not working still. He claims the Crank position sensor is the next one to put it, we will get it tomorrow and see if that works. It sounds like this may be the problem. If it doesn't work then he will come back out and put the machine on again to see what it shows. I am frustrated at this point. I will let you know how it turns out tomorrow evening.
He also said it good be a cam shaft sensor. He talked about both of them. Claims it could be either one. We are going with the Crank position sensor first.
P1516 Code: Chevrolet: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance GMC: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) / throttle body type trouble codes, may be caused by a loose wiring crimp at the throttle body connector, or a broken throttle body circuit.
by all means remove the pump assembly and test it with power from the battery using two pieces of wire touching the poles but only for a second ...then you will know if you have a pump problem or a wiring problem saved me buying a third pump but cost me my right arm for the mechanic to diagnose and replace the wire
I think I got mine fixed tonight. I found a post that said his was a loose ground wire behind the front driver wheel. Well that was correct. The fuel pump ground is connected to the frame at the body mount. I was in an accident 6 months ago and was hit in the driver door and tube step. The tube step was pushing on the back of the ground screw and stripped the threads in the frame. I tightened the ground screw and truck runs fine. This is why it would run fine sitting in the driveway but would die while driving (vibrations from Colorado roads). Just wish I wouldn't have spent $400.00 on pump, filter, and regulator chasing the problem.
Hello. Im having the same issue with my 99 Sierra 5.3 99000 miles. I just had major work done. New headgaskets, heads, intake gasket, etc. Two weeks later I'm having fuel problems. Replaced fuel pump in 08. How do you check if power is going to the pump? Where are the grey and black wires found? Thanks.
I think my problem has to do with my fuel system...On a cold engine it studders or completely lags when accelerating in 1st then kicks into 2nd pretty hard. I just replaced my transmission about 2 months ago. Any ideas? Thanks
My 06 Silverado, 5.3 L , stalled out at 65-70 mph , then restarted, 8 times on a long trip home. The 9th time it would not restart and I had to pull over. I waited 45 minutes after trying it several times. Meantime, I tokk off and replaced the gas cap, and cleaned the air filter. It was ho, over 95 degrees. The last time I tried it, it started right up and ran fine all the way home about 140 miles. Starts OK now. The engine did not sputter or buck when it quit - just quit like a light switch turning off. Sounds expensive to diagnose and fix as I know there can be many different causes. Any ideas or has anyone else experienced the same problem? Thanks
Thanks biga4! I was having the same problem with my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8LTR V-8 you described in your post. I had changed out all eight of the coils along with a new fuel pump & filter (the fuel pump was causing a lag whenever the fuel in the tank was 1/4 full or less) but I was still plagued with rough idle & hard start. I changed out the FPR ($64.64 at O'Reilly's) and it idles smooth and starts right away even after having reached operating temp. You da man!! Jim
I have a chevy 3500HD. I was driving down the road when all of a sudden the truck just lost power like it was out of fuel (I don't know much about diesel motors, this is my 1st one). I checked to see if there was fuel in the filter by cracking the bleeder screw and nothing came out. A friend told me to get a new filter as the one on there may be plugged. I replaced it and I cannot get any fuel into the filter by priming it. What could possibly be the problem??
bigb69, I apologize for your frustrations. I would recommend speaking with the dealer to have the vehicle diagnosed. Can you please update me on your progress as well as send me your information (VIN, current mileage, dealer etc.). I look forward to speaking with you. Christina GM Customer Service
Hi Christina, Thank you for your response, my truck is at Steve Schmitt GMC Chevrolet in Litchfield, IL. I currently don't have my VIN number handy, the truck has 150,000 mi on it. So far as of today they think that it might be the fuel injection pump. Unfortunatly they may not have it done till Monday, I need it tomorrow so I can continue my trip as I deliver new 5th wheels and travel trailers for a company out of Indiana. I was on my way to Texas when this problem occured. I just bought the truck one week ago today and traveled 500 miles when it broke down.
Randie (Bigb69), Thank you for your response. Please let me know how things go at the dealer. If you would like to email me directly with the information when you get it, I would be happy to look into this. You can also find the VIN on any insurance papers you may have. Thanks! Christina GM Customer Service
Now the dealership says that the crank is broke. They replaced the injector pump and the truck didn't start. The problem we have is that if the crank was broken the motor would have a lot of different noises to it when it was turning over and when we were on the side of the road there were no other different noises. I believe the dealer doesn't know what the hell they are doing (in my opinion)..... It would be nice if someone from GM would call me on this matter............
I have a 1998 Silverado with a 5.7 liter engine. I recently did a full tune-up on it to include spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor.The problem is the truck runs fine until it warms up,then the truck is hard to start and you have to hold the accelerator to the floor before it starts and sometimes it runs rough like it's running rich. It's not showing any trouble codes on my scan tool. I did a resistance check on the temp sensor and it's within tolerance according to my service manual and there is the correct voltage going to the temp sensor. Have changed the knock sensor too. I haven't been able to diagnose what is causing this. Any helpwould be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance
and have you checked the mass air flow sensor? It should be on the 3-4" tube that connects from the air box to the intake(?) and look like a plastic credit card holder sticking off the side. Do a 'tap' test when you start it from cold and see if it cuts out. This killed me in diagnostic time on a couple GMs the first time I encountered a bad one. They have a tendancy to cut out only when hot. If you were inthe air filter box you could have flexed, cracked, unplugged the sensor.
I did check all the wires and connections. I tried a different mass air flow sensor that I knew was good and it still did the same thing. The air box and sensor are all good . It runs fine until it warms up,then acts up. I'm thinking it could be a leaking fuel pressure regulator
I have a 2008 gmc sierra last 8 vin 8Z160870 4WD pickup was running when parked would not start in morning did some test was not getting fuel assumed fuel pump 115,000 miles,replaced fuel pump and still would not start. applied power to pump and pickup started removed power and truck died. have no power at 20amp pump fuse, key on or off, pump relay has power but jumping relay dosent work any ideas
Hey i have the same car and i checked and replaced the feul filter and fuel pump now im geting good pressure and good volume but the fuel injectors wont fire there are two fuel injectors. But evry now and then when i turn it over for a long long time and once and a blue moon it will start and when it deos start it runs fine then it will start up for the rest of the day then when u let it set for a few days its a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to start again
I am having problems with my fuel pump I think. My truck one day just would not start, it would just sit and crank but would not turn over. Me, my dad and my brother dropped the tank and replaced the pump. In the process my old man ripped one of the wire on the female 4 pin connector. So I got a new one but the color of the wires on the new plug are different from the stock connecter. I just put them on so the colors match. And my truck will still not start. I have looked at IGN 1 relay and it was backwards for some reason so i put it on right and all the fuses look good in my fuse box. Please help me.
byron06, have you figured out your problem yet? I have a 03 1500 hd 4X4 and also changed out my pump after checking all the fuses and relays and only have 5 volts at pump, i also ran 12 volt lead to pump and the truck will start and run but only with the jumper. I seem to have 12 volts leaving the fuse box from relay and fuse but it is not getting to the pump, i also checked if the circuit ran to oil pressure swtich and i had 5 volts there as well, any ideas on where to check?
cologuy I may have the same problem as you have, i also installed a new pump and can only make it work with a 12 volt jumper, looks like i only have 5 volts at pump but i do have 12 volts leaving the fuse pump, did you come up with anything? Thanks in advance
cologuy I may have the same problem as you have, i also installed a new pump and can only make it work with a 12 volt jumper, looks like i only have 5 volts at pump but i do have 12 volts leaving the fuse box, did you come up with anything? Thanks in advance
Yes! I did find the problem, it was the red connector that is under the fuse box (I think there are four large square connectors). That red square connector sends power to several things, but the very corner pin feeds the gray wire to the fuel pump. The blade (male part) of the fuse box was not making good contact with the female part of the connector, i do not know how that happened because the truck had always been running before with no problems and that connector is held on with a screw in the middle. I was almost ready to change the contol module because that is what controls the fuel pump but i did have 12 volts at the 20 amp fuse that was not getting to the pump.
I Have a 1999 GMC Sierra. I replaced the fuel pump about 8 months ago. My cousin is a master mechanic and he helped me wire it up, the fuel pump I got from O'reilly Auto Parts was a universal style for a few different years of the sierra. On my model I had to reverse the power wires and rewire it with the supplied plug. (came with multiple plugs as different years have different plugs. If this helps, your welcome :-) I wouldn't of figured it out on my own as always before red goes with red black with black... not red /black , black/red...
I am having the same problem i replaced the fuel pump it will start but just for a few seconds then dies. Can you hear your fuel pump come on when you turn the key on?
The way I had to do my wiring on a new fuel pump as per a master mechanic cousin of mine: 1. Hook up black and white on pump side to black wire on truck side. 2. Hook up all matching colors left. 3. There are 2 wires left that do not match, hook those up.
This was used for a 1999 sierra 4.8 with replacement fuel pump from O'reilly's Auto Parts. If this helps, feel free to say it worked for you! I hope this solves alot of your problems.
Comments
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!">
The dealer fix is the complete fuel pump and sending unit as a single unit. Note that the new fuel level sending unit shows empty much sooner than the old unit. The fuel is still there, it just lies to you.
Naturally, the tank was over three quarters full. They charge to transfer the fuel to a storage container and lower the tank to gain access to the opening for the unit.
An independent shop is likely to replace just the fuel pump for less total labor.
Hopefully the gauge issue is an electrical ground deal. Could also be what the fuel pump issue is too.
I don't remember what the exact cost was, but it was significant.
I would do independent shop.
As it is, I had a transfer-flo tank installed in my newer truck and that becomes a non-dealer issue to start with. Actually, I don't think the whole transfer-flo upgrade was much more costly than the fuel pump deal on the '98. 45 gallons instead of only 26 helps get past the high prices in the boonies. Something to consider since you are facing the repair.
Both are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace.
My best recommendation is to take the vehicle to your local GM dealership to be diagnosed. Please keep me posted.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
P1516 Code:
Chevrolet: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
GMC: Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) / throttle body type trouble codes, may be caused by a loose wiring crimp at the throttle body connector, or a broken throttle body circuit.
saved me buying a third pump but cost me my right arm for the mechanic to diagnose and replace the wire
Sounds expensive to diagnose and fix as I know there can be many different causes. Any ideas or has anyone else experienced the same problem?
Thanks
Jim
I apologize for your frustrations. I would recommend speaking with the dealer to have the vehicle diagnosed. Can you please update me on your progress as well as send me your information (VIN, current mileage, dealer etc.). I look forward to speaking with you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Thank you for your response, my truck is at Steve Schmitt GMC Chevrolet in Litchfield, IL. I currently don't have my VIN number handy, the truck has 150,000 mi on it. So far as of today they think that it might be the fuel injection pump. Unfortunatly they may not have it done till Monday, I need it tomorrow so I can continue my trip as I deliver new 5th wheels and travel trailers for a company out of Indiana. I was on my way to Texas when this problem occured. I just bought the truck one week ago today and traveled 500 miles when it broke down.
Thank you again
Randie
Thank you for your response. Please let me know how things go at the dealer. If you would like to email me directly with the information when you get it, I would be happy to look into this. You can also find the VIN on any insurance papers you may have. Thanks!
Christina
GM Customer Service
Randie
and have you checked the mass air flow sensor? It should be on the 3-4" tube that connects from the air box to the intake(?) and look like a plastic credit card holder sticking off the side. Do a 'tap' test when you start it from cold and see if it cuts out. This killed me in diagnostic time on a couple GMs the first time I encountered a bad one. They have a tendancy to cut out only when hot. If you were inthe air filter box you could have flexed, cracked, unplugged the sensor.
I may have the same problem as you have, i also installed a new pump and can only make it work with a 12 volt jumper, looks like i only have 5 volts at pump but i do have 12 volts leaving the fuse pump, did you come up with anything?
Thanks in advance
I may have the same problem as you have, i also installed a new pump and can only make it work with a 12 volt jumper, looks like i only have 5 volts at pump but i do have 12 volts leaving the fuse box, did you come up with anything?
Thanks in advance
I was almost ready to change the contol module because that is what controls the fuel pump but i did have 12 volts at the 20 amp fuse that was not getting to the pump.
2. Hook up all matching colors left.
3. There are 2 wires left that do not match, hook those up.
This was used for a 1999 sierra 4.8 with replacement fuel pump from O'reilly's Auto Parts.
If this helps, feel free to say it worked for you! I hope this solves alot of your problems.