HELLO , I 'AM IN NEED OF SOME HELP HERE ...I HAVE A 1983 FORD RANGER 4x4 WITH A BAD 2.3 CARBURETOR MOTOR ... I JUST PURCHASED A 1988 FORD RANGER 2 WHEEL DRIVE WITH A FI 2.3 ENGINE IN IT.......I WOULD LIKE TO SWAP OUT MY 1983 CARB MOTOR FOR THE 1988 2.3 FI ENGINE ... WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO MAKE THIS CHANGE WORK ... PLEASE HELP , I WOULD LIKE TO GET THIS THING IN BEFORE WINTER COMES...
Better place to ask would be Ford Ranger Engine swap. Also, as noted in the post box, please do not put your email address in your messages - we have no control over who will copy it and use it. If you want to reach someone off-site, their email address can be found in their profile (or ask them to make it visible). You may also use your CarSpace page for email - your page is http"//www.carspace.com/grump1 and your email address is the username "at" carspace.com
:confuse: The engine runs rough and misses. Had a check eng light. Misfire #3 had been a reocurring thing. Replaced all plugs, wires, PCv, coil pack, Fuel filter, cleaned MAF and did an emissions cleaning service. Now get an p1000 and p1464 codes. It still runs rough. Any sugestions?
I HAVE A 93 FORD RANGER WITH A 3.0 V6 ENGINE IN IT AND I NEED TO KNOW IF I CAN PUT A FORD TAURUS 3.0 V6 IN IT AND IFSO WHAT YR. MODEL WILL I HAVE TO USE?
There were problems with these in the early years of 2000. with gears or chain wearing out at around 100,000 miles. Has this problem been solved and what year was it? I'm in the market for a good used Ranger around 2003 -2005. What should I be looking for as far as any problems I mentioned?
My Ranger only has 38,000 miles on it, and when I sit idle (say at a stoplight) the engine shakes. The normal shaking does not bother me, but there is a definite whole engine shakes and it feels like a belt is loose/off but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Thanks.
I just bought an 89 ford ranger with a 2.3 engine with 2 coil pacs. When I first drove it home it smoked for about 15 minutes and stoped smoking. It runs rough at an idle but when you increase the RPM's up to 1000 rpm's it smoothes out and there is no missing. I replaced the plugs and wires and it still misses at an idle but it smokes again and won't stop. It is a grey smoke. I did a pressure test on the coolant system and it shows a leak I think it is a head gasket. My question is if it is a head gasket and is repaired is the grey smoke going to go away or will it continue ? Also I understand it could be a bad cylinder. With running at a higher RPM's wouldn't it miss all the time if it is a bad cylinder. looking for a cheap fix
I was wrong on the RPM's on the previous post when I raise them up to 2000 RPM's its smooth. But it seems like its running rich also. Any help would be apreciated.
I just drove the ranger about 10 miles and the engine stopped smoking but it still misses at an idle. Is it possable that the cat converter is also causing me problems?
can someone tell me why ford would put 8 plugs in a four cyl. motor? ang then they make the 4 on the drivers side almost impossible to get out. was this one of fords better ideas?
My ranger 4 cyl with 168,000 miles runs perfect at speed but at low rpm it wants to stall. timing belt plugs and wires were just done and it started this after the wires and plugs????
I can tell you the general reason for this design - pollution control. The plugs fire in the 'regular' fuel compression cycle for power, then the other plug for a cylinder also fires in the 'exhaust' cycle in an attempt to burn any unburned fuel before it is exhausted.
I will be driving my 05 ford ranger 4x4 level 2 and the motor will stop and then restart immediately without any fault showing up. I had it checked at the ford garage and they said four of the six cylinders were dropping out and the engine control module needed to be replaced. After replacing the module the truck continues to have the same problem.
I have run into this before. It was a difficult diagnosis. Check to see if the Alternater is leaking AC voltage through one of the diods. The alternater may be charging just fine, but if the alternating current is leaking past the diods, it wont be detected without special test equipment. I have had this cause PCM's to shut down befor and do all kinds of crazy things. Without a vantage graphing meter to test for this, disconnect the alternater from the electrical system. This will turn your check engine light on but its part of the test. Place a battery charger on the battery and run the vehicle. See if the symptom goes away. Don't let the voltage drop below about 10.5v on the battery during the test. The PCM shuts down at that voltage anyway. Good luck.
so i just recently got my 1989 ford ranger working. the module that comes off of the distibutor was bad. my dad and i took almost the whole engine apart to get to this damn part. now that its all back together i have less power in the engine than i did before and it really slams into second and third gear. anyone know what might be the problem? its a 2.9 L 4 cylinder.
If the transmission has a 'vacuum modulator' on it, this part has a vacuum line going to it. If the line is unhooked or has a split, hard shifts as you are feeling will occur.
Find the modulator, probably on the right side of the tranny somewhat high up, and follow the line back to where it gets vacuum off the intake, looking for a problem.
Or, the modulator may have failed. If the diaphram inside is burst, it will pull tranny fluid into the intake, where it will mix with the air into the cylindars, and will be burned. Your tranny fluid will drop as it is burned in the engine.
The truck ran fine then one day it felt like a fouled plug. I changed the plugs,wires,coil packs. Checked the TPS,coolant temp senser,replaced fuel filter twice. It will run like it is missing but it is'nt miss firing. It is getting rotten fuel mileage and is under powered. Sometimes it pings other times it does'nt. The check engine light comes on rarely,but it does come on every once in a while. Also it sometimes smells like it is running rich.It allways starts right up and will run forever just no power,hills are a real bummer.
Ok I drive 4 miles and my check engine light comes on when I get home I leave it running and put the decoder on it and when I hook it up the decoder light comes on, when I flip the test switch on it blinks 3 times then my check engine light goes out. I have decoded it for three days in a row and the same thing happens. Any ideas would be appreciated! :confuse:
You probably have a cheep code reader. I use a Snap on scanner myself. Try this; Turn engine off. plug in your code reader. Turn key to run position engine still off. (accessory position) Then test. OBD1 on that year ford sometimes my scanner tells me to then again turn key off, then back on to accessory in order to scan it.
i have a02 ranger 3.0 flex fuel and the temp in my city is 50 degrees and my truck is running to cold like right on the C line. i have changed out the thermostat to a 180, please help
Does anyone have an official 0-60 time for a 3.0 Auto ford ranger?
I ask, because I'm car shopping for a new car, and I'd like a objective measure of my current ranger's acceleration for comparison.
It seems like the auto press has avoided the 3.0L ranger like the plague, because *all* of the reviews I have found are for the 4.0L. I haven't timed the 0-60 myself because, well it's hard to find a place where you can legally stop, and then floor the gas and hit 60, all whilst timing the whole darn thing with a stop watch.
I did see a few youtube videos that hit 60 around 14 seconds. I'm sure you could drop at least a half second off that with a trained driver brake torquing or something.
I always knew my ranger was slow (passing is usually a white knuckle event requiring hundreds of yards of clear space), but I had no idea it was that bad. I think I could just about be smoked by a smart lol... :sick:
if you havent figured it out yet, it sounds like you have a clogged cat converter, you described the systems they can cause when they go bad, if you replace it you can take the old one to a recycle place and get some money for it to
it was running great and all sudden it started missin bad like one or two spark plug wires was off and i look under hood to find out oil was every were looks like it is comin out of dip stick !!! can any one tell me what happened
Wild, wild guess - the PCV valve or its line is plugged. Blowby pressure that usually gets 'relieved' thru the PCV is not getting 'relieved' and it is forcing oil up the tube.
I think my ’05 4.0 does the same thing but the problem is very intermittent. However the other night it happened 3 times. Again I also checked the PCM codes and found no codes. I was reading the Chiltons repair manual and learned that errors are only reported if the error occurs in 2 subsequent driving cycles which means that it is highly likely that this problem will never pop a code. The alternator theory sound interesting but I’m not sure how to try it under the conditions I have.
We have 1 2006 Ford Ranger Diesel 3.0lts 5 speed manual trans and 1 2007 Ford Ranger Diesel 2.8lts 5 speed manual trans. Both had to be overhauled but the engine have no power. We have set the timing to what the manual is stating but it bearly reaches 80 kms per hour in 4th gear. We have scanned it to see if a sensor is bad but the scanner does not pick up anything. Can someone give me some advise?
whats up i gotta 1994 ford ranger auto v6 4x4 and i jus tgot it and its really sluggish off the take off i really gotta floor the gas to get up to speed i can feel it holding back alot once im doing like 40 45 50 it runs fine well it runs fine just the sluggish part... anyone have any ideas? someone said maybe the cat or mufflers clogged but i dont no about that then i was reading another post on here and they said EGR valve and or the hoses to it and manifold for it might be clogged? any ideas THANK YOU
i have a 99 4.0 4x4 with 71,000 miles truck runs fine but at idle it has a knocking noise and sounds like a mini diesel has done it for a while... i recently put new plugs/wires/airfilter/fuel filter on it and i didnt buy cheap parts all were motorcraft...this is a pampered truck not beat to hell want to keep it running like it did when it was new also now the air bag light blinks 2 times then 7 times then stays on but the passenger air bag light is off now matter what the position of the idicator i tried all the battery/seatbealt connection tricks still messed up ...and now my tranny shifts hard out of the gate like it never downshifted after a stop
Comments
WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO MAKE THIS CHANGE WORK ... PLEASE HELP , I WOULD LIKE TO GET THIS THING IN BEFORE WINTER COMES...
THANKS GRUMP1
Email Me At : grumpscustomz@hotmail.com
kcram - Pickups Host
rocker arm 1999 ranger3.0 v6 2 wheele drive
Thanks.
Terry
Terry
Terry
If the transmission has a 'vacuum modulator' on it, this part has a vacuum line going to it. If the line is unhooked or has a split, hard shifts as you are feeling will occur.
Find the modulator, probably on the right side of the tranny somewhat high up, and follow the line back to where it gets vacuum off the intake, looking for a problem.
Or, the modulator may have failed. If the diaphram inside is burst, it will pull tranny fluid into the intake, where it will mix with the air into the cylindars, and will be burned. Your tranny fluid will drop as it is burned in the engine.
Turn engine off. plug in your code reader. Turn key to run position engine still off. (accessory position) Then test. OBD1 on that year ford sometimes my scanner tells me to then again turn key off, then back on to accessory in order to scan it.
, and clean up ground connections that go to the body.
I also pull out the relays and sprayed some electrical cleaner into the connectors.
Probably a bad ground, loose connection.
I ask, because I'm car shopping for a new car, and I'd like a objective measure of my current ranger's acceleration for comparison.
It seems like the auto press has avoided the 3.0L ranger like the plague, because *all* of the reviews I have found are for the 4.0L. I haven't timed the 0-60 myself because, well it's hard to find a place where you can legally stop, and then floor the gas and hit 60, all whilst timing the whole darn thing with a stop watch.
I did see a few youtube videos that hit 60 around 14 seconds. I'm sure you could drop at least a half second off that with a trained driver brake torquing or something.
I always knew my ranger was slow (passing is usually a white knuckle event requiring hundreds of yards of clear space), but I had no idea it was that bad. I think I could just about be smoked by a smart lol... :sick:
http://www.zeroto60times.com/Ford-0-60-mph-Times.html
If you find something on the 3.0L, please let me know.
Well, golly.
1/4 mile mph.
1/4 mile et.
1/8 mile mph.
1/8 mile et.
60 foot et.
Still no 0-60mph et.....
I guess we may never know.
We have 1 2006 Ford Ranger Diesel 3.0lts 5 speed manual trans and 1 2007 Ford Ranger Diesel 2.8lts 5 speed manual trans. Both had to be overhauled but the engine have no power. We have set the timing to what the manual is stating but it bearly reaches 80 kms per hour in 4th gear. We have scanned it to see if a sensor is bad but the scanner does not pick up anything. Can someone give me some advise?