Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Ranger Engine questions



  • kpbarberkpbarber Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 that is doing the same thing. Let me know if you figure it out!
  • Check your refrigerant. It probably needs to be recharged.
    As it turns out, mine had a small leak. Once that was fixed and the system recharged, the clicking stopped.
  • zacmzacm Posts: 2
    my 95 Ranger seems to idle very high in warm weather and while im driving.. ill come to a stop and it will still be idling very high until about 10 secs after i stop and when its cold it doesn't idle up at all which is whut i want it to do so i don't have to sit there with my foot on the gas pedal for 10 minutes until it finally warms up.. someone please tell me whuts wrong
  • scarab3scarab3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Explorer with a 4.0L. I left the key on last night and the battery was dead this morning. I charged the battery and now it cranks fine but, I don't have any spark. I thought it was the security system. Any thoughts.
  • flychukerflychuker Posts: 3
    I ended up taking mine to a mechanic and it turned out to be a sensor on the crank shaft that was bad. Ended up costing about $130 with parts and labor. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  • 89ranger189ranger1 Posts: 1
    1989 Ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed. Bought with 107k miles, now has 133k miles. Maybe 15k miles ago (8 months?) it began to lose power once it warmed up. I commute (highway miles) & after approx 20-25 miles of driving, the truck's engine sound changes, it immediately begins to run rough, & struggles to do 55mph. Often drops down to 45mph regardless of load. Previous owner installed oil pressure gauge; oil pressure is normal. RPMs drop to 2000 or so during these "episodes" & will not exceed 3000. Sometimes "check engine" light comes on if I rev engine to get RPMs up; light usually goes off eventually. Uphill is slightly worse but even downhill truck will often not exceed 50mph with the gas pedal floored. Sometimes barely makes 40 mph & I have to use flashers the rest of the way home. Feathering off accelerator and letting truck lag along at 40-45mph SOMETIMES helps, but not always. Usually it remains that way till I stop for an hour and let if cool off; a few times it has recovered somewhat after I feather off accelerator and don't try to do more than 50. My mechanic said it was fuel filter; installed new one. Nope. "Catalytic converter must be stopped up". He cut cat converter off and installed new muffler (old one was rusted). No change. There are no oil leaks. Truck is using too much coolant but mechanic said it could be "bad radiator cap". I keep coolant in it and check daily; truck doesn't appear to be overheating. But is it really water going into the engine? Is it blow-by? Help--- this truck is uncomfortable as hell (infamous fall-apart Ranger seats!) and I don't want to keep putting money into it, but can't afford new truck. Any easy fix?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My wild guess from long distance, especially since you say "using too much coolant" (a car should not 'use' any coolant), is bad head gasket.

    Not real bad, since you don't say it is overheating, but a head gasket anyway. The coolant is going somewhere.
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    I am with bolivar on this one. It sounds like coolant is cooling down the cylinders and not allowing the engine to produce maximum power. Also the coolant going into the exhaust will cause the 02 sensors to stop operating.

    I would have a cylinder compression test done. All cylinders should be within 5psi of each other.

    Ford Tech
  • jack78jack78 Posts: 5
    There are some chemicals on the market that will help in the swelling of the front seal. but other than that you will need a new seal and sleeve for the convertor.
  • sadrielsadriel Posts: 1
    My boyfriend has a ford ranger. He recently ran it out of oil while i was riding with him! I made him pull over, and we put oil in it, but the oil pressure did not come back up.

    So, I went and changed the oil, and put a new filter on it - still no oil pressure.
    Replaced the sender in hopes it was the sender - still no oil pressure. Now, its beginning to tick...

    Is the oil pump hard to get to? its a 98 with a 2Liter.

    Please help. Is the oil pump a common part to go? Or is it possible that I just have a plug somewhere?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Ok, do what I did. I got out of my 94 Ranger and bought a new Corvette.

    Next-to-last tank of gas gave 29.2mpg. Last tank was 27.7. It does require premium.....
  • geoffcgeoffc Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 Ranger 2WD with 250,000 km. It's got the 2.9L 6cyl. 10W30 oil. It starts fine and the oil pressure gauge reads at about 1/4 up (I believe that it used to be at about the 1/2 way mark). Once the engine is warm the oil pressure drops and at idle it drops down to nearly nil as the engine idles roughly, then stalls. It won't stall if I rev the engine.

    I'm thinking the gauge must be fine because the rough idle/stalling accompanies the low pressure. I'm not prepared to spend the time or money on an oil pump replacement, if that's what it turns out to be. Any alternative ideas to try before I relegate it to the scrappers?
  • abell2abell2 Posts: 2
    What is the normal start rpms for 02,4.0 Ranger...?? Mine starts up at 1850 to 2100!!!! The EGR system checks out,put a new idle control solenoid and it still kicks up..?? The idle does come down to the normal but ?? Sometimes it RattleS like a bad mixture or what..thoughts??
  • I have a '94 Ford Ranger 3.0, with about 137,000 miles on it. Once in a while (maybe once or twice every time im driving) when im cruising, or sometimes when im accelerating, it will cut out for a second, like a brief hesitation, then it will be fine again. The engine is not burning oil or any fluids, and the radiator isnt using extra coolant, temperature seems to be normal. Anyone have any idea what this could be? Fuel injectors perhaps?
  • seed60seed60 Posts: 1
    Here of late the truck cuts off when when you put it into park. The idle fluxuates and eventually stalls. I have check the oil, and other fluids. Has anyone had this problem before? I looked at the topic "idles rough until stall" and saw low oil pressure. Does anyone know of a solution for this problem??
  • hayparkhaypark Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger that is doing the exact same thing. Did you find out what the problem was?
  • hayparkhaypark Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what is causing the idle problem? Mine is doing the same thing.
  • sammy18sammy18 Posts: 4
    I have not found the answer. I have changed the idle speed control valve and checked for vacuum leeks and still have the problem. I will continue to work on it, if you find the answer please let me know.
  • ltpageltpage Posts: 3
    I'm hearing an alarm somewhere behind the glove box of my 1997 Ford Ranger. It only sounds after I first start the engine for 10 or 15 seconds then stops.It is a different sound than the normal seat belt alarms and such. The truck seems to be running ok.
  • Hey, I bought my ranger in 2005 with it being an 02 model and I have a question about the engine. well, I've noticed at the beginning of the year that it's not getting the right amount of mileage that it should be. I think it's suppose to be getting around 300 to the tank, but now it's more like 230 at max. Also, since it's been making clanking noises when i would accelerate, I had to switch to mild-grade on the gas (and it helps), but I'm not sure if they are related.
    But, right now it's at the ford dealership getting warrenty work on the aircondition. I have extended service plan so i don't know if maybe some of the engine problems will be with the warrenty.
    but if anyone has an ideas, let me know please. I just want my truck to be fixed so i can move on. :)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You have the 3Liter V6, right?

    They ping. This is what you are hearing. Higher grade of gas is about only thing to help with this.
  • Yeah it's a 3.0L V6. I know the pinging noise will go away with using the medium grade gas. But with using that type of gas, is it normal to lose a little gas mileage??
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would have thought it might give better milage.

    But if you are not writting milages down and carefully calculating each fillup, your milage figures are useless.

    Such as 'I get xxx miles on a tank of gas!'

    My 94 4Liter with a cap got about 14 in town and the highest I ever saw was 18.5 on highway driving. I now have a Honda Ridgeline which gets 19-20mpg on the highway and is a much larger, 4wheel drive truck.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    How do you figure highway and city driving mileage? I would think that you divide the mileage by the amount of gallons used at fillup. Unless of course you have a computer that tells you your current mpg as you drive. Even then to state 18.5 highway? How accurate can that be?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I do it the way you said, which is the correct way to do in. Every car of mine has a small notepad where each fillup and its milage is logged.

    I've seen lots of postings where people say "My whatsit used to get 300 miles to a tank it now only gets 275. What is wrong with it?" This isn't a milage calculation.
  • rbd008rbd008 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3.0L that has suddenly become hard to start. I replaced plugs, checked hoses and replaced the IAC valve but still no change. Any suggestions?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Does it start ok when hot? If so, the following may be the problem.

    You probably have two temperature sensors. One drives the guage on the dash.

    The other talks to the computer and gives it the coolant temperature. This one has possibly failed. It is not telling the computer that the engine is cold. Under cold starting conditions, the computer increase the fuel amount injected (unriches the mixture). If this enrichment is not done, it will be hard to start.

    This sensor will usually have black and yellow wires, twisted together, coming off it.

    Or, your fuel pump may be failing and is not giving enough pressure to start. I would think this would cause other problem, like missing at high speed due to fuel starvation. A pressure guage on the schrader valve on the fuel injector line should give the pressure readings. I don't know exactly what they should be, but around 40lbs, I think, is usually in the range of a good working fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank.

    Or, you might just have a clogged fuel filter, if you have a lot of miles and it's never been changed. Or you got a tank of dirty gas.

    I don't think the IAC valve has anything to do with starting, only idle speed.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I'd also change the wires if you're still running the original. Not that it has anything to do with a hard start. Just that with the engine comparment temp the wires deteriorate and at 5 years would be a good idea to replace along with the plugs.
Sign In or Register to comment.