Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems



  • joeoggjoeogg Posts: 7
    The problem with clutches seem to have appeared form 2003 on, the only year with calls action lawsuit is 2003, I don't know but suspect they are all dual mas clutches, I replace yhr orgianl clutch(went out at 22,000 with a clutch master aluminun wheel , that one went out, clutch master replaced with steel one, did not go to dual mas clutch,

    I think the only way to ge hyundai to own up is to go to better business bureau. I am 67 years old been driving stick shifts forever and have never had aclutch go out till now, I know they have a problem with design
  • kim64kim64 Posts: 1
    I have read alot of bad stories about this car on here, I have a 2003 4cyl , I bought it new, my clutch just started to slip, did I get lucky ?? it's got 190,000km on it, the biggest problem I"ve had with my car is the electrical.. they have relpaced the motor for the power door locks 3 times, and yet again.. not working, neither are the power windows. But as for the clutch, 190 K.. can't complain, considering I also have 2 boys who learned how to drive stick on it..OUCH. So now I am shopping for a clutch (and no I am not taking it to the dealer to be repaired) I know a good mechanic, just looking for some advice on what clutch to put in.
  • I have a 2007 Tiburon with 24500 miles . that smoke out backing out my garage.
    Charge me 520.00 to tell me it was my clutch. they applied it to my repair for a total of app 1700.00 . You want to buy it? :(
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The 2003 in particular had several electrical faults, and of course the clutch failures on both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
    I HAVE a solution..THE solution.
    I personally own a 2004 Tiburon 2.0L, with a 5 speed so I speak with experience.
    I also have spoke to other fellow Tibby owners with the same issue and figured adding my info in this forum might be useful.
    When I bought my Tib in Feburary 2006, it had 16K miles on the clock.
    I also noticed when I drove it, the clutch didnt feel right.. Like nothing Ive ever driven, and Ive owned many manual transmission based cars.
    The clutch action made a novice drive like a pro, and an expert drive like a novice.
    I was thinking something was off immediately.
    Hyundai made the clutch smooth, but at a cost.
    Slipping on every shift!
    Now on to the solution.
    There is a little part located in your clutch slave cylinder called a "delay valve".
    The part has a small hole in it, and a spring.
    The clutch slave cylinder in and of itself is pretty simple.
    Dont confuse it with the clutch MASTER cylinder located on the cars firewall.
    Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the side with the hose on it, and you should see it, (the valve) and a small spring.
    Once these are out, and you have properly installed and done an air bleed of the slave prepare to be amazed!
    The car will now shift properly, with positive shifts, NO slipping,better fuel economy, more power, and perfect clutch feel!
    TRUST ME.. This works perfectly and is totally safe.
    My car has over 40K on it now and not a single lick of trouble.
    I cant remember the name of the site I found this info, but it was very new at the time, and im sure I would have found this solution myself given alittle time.
    I give kudos to the guy that found out the solution before I did. :)
    If I had the link, there is a full, photographs and all, website that has step by step of how to do this.
    But, you can also do it simply by buying a service manual.
    This is the absolute best "Mod" you can do for your Tibby.
    I wish Hyundai would just admit to the issue, as the solution is so painfully easy to solve its kind of silly.
    Say goodbye to clutch wear, and hello to a car with added performance you havent met yet.
    Word of caution.. If you have replaced your clutch, or have a badly worn clutch, this mod will save your existing clutch, but if its already so bad that most of the clutch friction material, or the flywheel has been overheated bad enough to cause judder, you will still need to replace the clutch and possibly the flywheel.
    If you catch it soon enough with the mod, you could get tens of thousands of addtional miles before having to do your clutch!
    Each situation will vary.. but for the love of god.. REMOVE THE VALVE!
  • 4bakrs4bakrs Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon (53,000 miles) that was just taken into dealership with Clutch and Flywheel problems. Both are not covered under warranty.
    I have also had to replace the steering wheel rack at 42,000 miles. Very costly repairs.
    Has anyone else had clutch problems with their 2005 Tiburons?
  • joeoggjoeogg Posts: 7
    I have a 2006 tiburon, 6 cyclinder that had 23,000 miles on it and Hyundai said it would cost $2400 to repair, they never gave me anything in writing, I took my car to local mechanic and they repaired once using aluminum CLutch master fly wheel, which didn't last, had to be replaced by steel one which now has 5000 mile on it. I took my case to auto better business hot line and got re-imbursed for most of the cost, Also in warranty book it says it does cover clutch lining which is a cheap part. It doesn't say anything about rest of clutch which is flywheel etc.
    good luck
  • joeykujoeyku Posts: 1
    Hey buddy,

    Can you email me personally about this? I have an '07 GS with no problem... Yet, but I notice when I "Rev" it out to redline and try to quick shift into second that I hear a grind. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet and I don't beat my car at all. I have almost 38,000 mile on it and want to know if I can do that to my car. email is Thanks.
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    ...but Hyundai definitely cuts corners on certain components to keep their costs down, and two of these main components happen to be the clutch.flywheel assembly and the suspension on all but the Genesis.

    There's a reason why Hyundais do well in initial quality, but clutch, suspension and electrical problems mount significantly over times.

    Plotted on a chart, Hyundai remains flat during years 1 through 2, ticks upwards in year three, and takes off in a nasty upward direction in years 4 and beyond.
  • I have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT, and I have very bad clutch problems. The clutch has been replaced. I read on your post, and it said to look for the delay valve in the slave cylinder. Do i just take out the delay valve and the spring and reinstall?
  • ajagerajager Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 V6 5 speed Tibruon and it is the first standard i have owned. I have roughly 50k miles on it right now and the only problem i am having right now is that it will pop out of 4th gear from time to time. I dont know if this means the clutch is going or what. That is my only problem right now, in the past they had to replace my driver side window motor a year after i bought it. I bought this car in 03 with only 11 miles on it. Any help with what is going wrong with it would be much appreciated. :confuse:
  • amnred103amnred103 Posts: 2
    This might sound strange. You had air in your brake fluid. There is no mechanical linkage from your clutch to your tranny (its hydrolic) and uses the brake fluid. Anyway, you get air in the line and it wont have the pressure to push the clutch or push the clutch pedal back out. After the bubble escaped out the reservoir it was able to build pressure again essentialy fixing its self! If you have that problem again first make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full. If you have this problem again bleed the line out and it should fix it.
  • tlzinktlzink Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel for my 03 Tiburon with a grip force stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel. my problem is that now that I have everything installed, I have no back pressure when I press on the clutch pedal. At first I thought that there was an air bubble in the hose, but that's not the case. Any suggestions?
  • My daughter owns a GT Shark. About a year ago, she had the clutch replaced and is now at about 76K miles. At that time they also replaced master or slave cylinders or maybe it was both.
    She recently started experiencing a problem. Sometimes it was hard to get in gear, gear grinding, and other times it would rev as if the clutch had not engaged. The problem is intermittent and the dealer said they could not find a problem. She took it to another mechanic and have changed the slave twice without success. And now has an added problem of not wanting to start sometimes as if the clutch is not being depressed.
    I realize this info is partial, but would appreciate any input.

    How in the world does a clutch fail to engage or disengage as a single problem?
    My only suspicion is that somehow the throw-out bearing is sticking on the shaft. So I'm looking for other possibilities and any knowledge of how this assembly is constructed. My knowledge is from previous times where a fork compressed the clutch plate away from the flywheel. The clutch plate was splined to the output shaft. In some designs the plate slid on the splined shaft.

    And now there is the no start issue. Does anyone know where that safety switch is located?
    Some designs had it located near the brake switch, on the interior. If your linkage went bad, you defeated the safety switch. With mechanical linkage, they might be put anywhere along the linkage including at the clutch. With hydraulic, it could be put at the master or slave cylinders. For the highest degree of safety, it would seem they would put it at the output of the slave. I have no idea how the slave actuates, is connected, to the clutch. I remember one where the slave would make direct contact with the fork, but have no idea if someone came up with one of those "better ideas". (other than the one everyone hear seems to have) ;)
  • espo35espo35 Posts: 144
    The site w/ slave spring removal outlined in it is
  • hi I just did the vavle take out project you said worked for you it diod not work for me every thing was done just as you explained it in fact I even down loaded your file so as to not get it wrong, in fact it slips more now ten it did befor, I will take it to the local hun.dealership and see what they have to say. I really thought this was going to solve the problem not make it worse. please let me know what you think thanks kevin
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    After the shop kept the car for a couple of weeks, they had given up all hope of avoiding pulling tranny. Because they had put a new clutch in 1 year ago, they did not burn her. This time they used a steel pressure plate and charged her about half what it cost the first time, about $350.
    Problem solved.
  • Does anyone know how to bleed the clutch on a 2003 tiburon, 6cyl, 5 spd? I'd hate to take in for that. Any help would be appreciated
  • I bought my 2006 Tiburon in March 2006, with 87 miles on it. In June (3 months to the day), I was driving back from Washington DC to Ohio, and the car would not accelerate over 40mph. I tried checking all the fluids, and putting better gas in, and nothing helped. I called Ricart in Columbus where the car was purchased, and they said (if it made it back), to bring the car in to be checked. The problem was that the clutch needed to be replaced. Luckily, they fixed it at no charge to me, since the car was so new. Now, 3 years later, my clutch is bad again. The only time I can get the car to go above 50mph is when I'm going downhill on the highway (which doesn't happen a lot in NW Ohio...) Midas told me that the clutch needs to be replaced, and of course, Hyundai will not cover it, since it wears out. My car is at 61,000 miles now, and I have treated this car like my baby since I've owned it. The first few weeks were tough since I was a little rusty at driving a standard, but it's been great since then. Unfortunately I won't have this car paid off for another 2 years :( I was planning on keeping this car until I had a good job and could afford a really nice car, but I'm thinking after having this problem again and reading the other posts, that I might need to think about getting a new car a little sooner than I had planned. :lemon:
  • A few years ago, I bought a used '04 Tiburon 4 cylinder with only 9k miles on it. It was two years old and I remember being shocked that a car two years old had so few miles on it. Only a few months in, I found out why. It had an electrical problem. I took it back to where I bought it a few times and was treated horribly. After five or so times that it had been in, I angrily asked to speak to the service manager and he informed me that I was lying, it had not been in five times. Called me a liar in front of everyone in the service dept, when I had the paperwork to prove it, and he could've looked in his own computer to see. I called the store manager later, who discovered "my story had never happened" and I miraculously could never get a hold of her again. So I went higher up and talked to people at Hyundai headquarters. Same thing. It never happened and I couldn't get a hold of anyone again. So I took my tiburon to another dealership. After 13 times total, replacing the alarm, the alternator and battery several times, replacing the stereo several times, the wiring harness, they could never fix what was wrong and it got so bad that one night driving home when I let off the gas, all the lights shut off. Not safe. In horrible frustration (but still loving the Tiburon and assuming this was just a lemon and a fluke) I foolishly traded in my used 04 for a brand new 06 SE. I drove the SE for three years with never a problem until about six months ago. Without warning, the left front wheel bearing went out. Luckily, they replaced it at no cost. But about a month or so later, I started having clutch problems. It would grind going into and out of gears, trying to downshift, and it would seem like the clutch wasn't disengaging. It would keep moving in gear even when the clutch was pressed to the floor. I took it to the dealership and they told me the master cylinder had come apart and they replaced it. Few weeks later, started having the problem again. So I took it in and dropped it off for a week while I was on vacation and they replaced the entire clutch assembly. For a few weeks, it shifted flawlessly. About two weeks ago, I started having the problem again. I take it back in for the third time and they say "this time the slave cylinder took a dump." So they replaced it. Not even a week later, same problem. I took it in for round 4 and now they can't find anything wrong with it. It is infuriating. I don't drive the car hard, especially when I started having problems, I baby it fanatically because I'm so afraid it will mess up, which it always does. I've had this car for three years with never a problem. I don't think I suddenly forgot how to drive it in the last six months. This is also the third manual I have owned, and I've owned nothing but manuals since I learned to drive. I don't think I suddenly forgot how to drive. I will never own another Hyundai and I would get rid of this thing today if I wasn't upside down on my payments. Two different Tiburons with several different problems, so I think that proves it's not that i just got ONE crappy car. I've started daydreaming about Toyotas and Hondas. Ugh.
  • mntibmntib Posts: 2
    :mad: Another one bites it....Another classic storybook case as it seems...
    Took car to dealership, clutch didn't seem right, ticking noise, told nothing wrong ($50). Problem got worse, back to dealership, nothing visible need to teardown to locate problem ($130). Amazing they found that the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate needed replaced. Said no warranty that the car had been driven hard they could tell because the tires needed to be replaced as well. So $2400 just for the clutch problem, gave quote also for tires, but we took it to a tire company so we at least know that we have a good warranty on them. Amazing that the tire company told us that getting the 19,000 miles out of the tires that were on it was good. So guess that takes care of the driven hard excuse because of the tires!
    So in summary $22,000 for the car, $2400 for the clutch, $500 for tires all in the first year. They got us!! To sell it we lose our shorts, to keep it sounds like we will lose our shorts as from what I read our clutch problems have only begun. But guess what we have a good warranty on the tires.
    I guess from what I read our next step will be to contact the BBB since the dealership is no help, Hyundai doesn't seem to care, so why bother.
    If anyone else has had any luck anywhere, please let me know.
  • I have a 2006 tiburon and I went to better business bureau and go back my money tthat it cost me to replace clutch, The dealer is not going to do anything and you must force hyundai to do something, go to BBB
  • Hi, I have a 2003 hyundai tiburon and I am trying to pull out the alternator because I believe I need a new one...So I need to figure out how to loosen the tension belt...I can't find the idler pully...Please help! i've been looking online for a bit and i'm a working woman so I don't have much time...Thank you! :confuse:
  • Same old story--2006 Tiburon that I bought new. Less than 35,000 miles and am replacing the clutch for the second time. Hyundai is absolutely no help. The dealership says it is due to an inability to drive a stick. Why don't we fight fire with fire and take out some ads in major newspaper complaining about this issue? How about the consumer advocate on local TV stations coupled with a move to get our various congressmen involved. During these difficult financial times what Hyundai is doing is criminal, and they shouldn't be allowed to get away with it. Anybody else for a good old fashioned American fight against these corporate jerks?
  • I am with you on that. So far, I've been lucky in that the Hyundai dealership by me has replaced everything for free, but I fear that's coming to an end since they claimed they couldn't find anything wrong the last time I brought it in. I contacted the law firm that is handling the lawsuit against the 2003 models but I have yet to hear back from them.
  • mntibmntib Posts: 2
    Anyone who has been the BBB route with clutch problems, I would like to hear from you as to your results and what it took to get there. We have contacted them and it appears we are going to arbitration.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The answer is YES.
    Take the "holder" out..(has a hole in it which creates the delay).. along with the spring.
    There is no longer a need for the spring as the delay orifice is removed, and the spring will no longer serve a purpose of helping the part stay centered.
    Be sure you look for any leaks when you are done, and bleeding the clutch slave is a piece of cake.
    I suggest using a Dot 4 type brake fluid as it has a slightly different and I think better "feel" at the pedal. Dot 3 is fine as well of course.
    Just take your time, and be sure you have a couple good rags to clean up the brake fluid.. its horrible on paint.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Popping out of 4th gear could mean either you have a bad shift fork, or, more than likely.. a misadjusted shift lever cable..
    Look into doing an adjustment on that, and if someone removed the transmission in the past, either they messed up the adjustment, or the cable may just be stretching.
    I have seen situations where people with bad clutches get all "angry" with their transmissions and shift hard on them and bang them into gears, sometimes stretching out the cable that way.
    I would look into the simple approach first, (cable adjustment) before you poo-poo the transmission as possibly needing some repair.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Sorry to hear you are still having problems.
    The thing about this fix, is that it works best if your clutch isnt already toast.
    If it slipped long enough, even having the clutch slave no longer "delaying" (which wipes the clutch out in the first place).
    Now, if you are replacing your clutch, make damn sure this valve is removed or you will be doing it again pretty quickly.
    Also, make sure you have properly bled your clutch slave, and at the same time, keep your clutch MASTER filled well during the process or you will get a bubble,which.. will act like another delay valve, or worse, you cannot engage your clutch at all.
    Which may be your issue.
    Its been sometime since you posted this, but with your experience here, maybe others can learn from any possible problems in the future and make sure to look for this solution.
  • julieckjulieck Posts: 2
    :mad: My 2008 Tiburon 4cyl has been grinding when downshifting into 2nd gear. I have had my car in the dealer since Monday, May 3 (for the second time) and basically they have ordered 7 parts and are rebuilding my transmission. Now mind you I have only 10000 miles on my car. Any other 2008 with this problem?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    There are times when transmissions just go bad with one or two parts that fail due to quality issues.
    Parts are sourced from all over, and sometimes, you just get bad parts installed in a complex mechanical device (such as a transmission) with tolerances, metallurgy to worry about, and the possibility the transmission may have actually been assembled wrong as well, you can see that things can and do go wrong.
    As far as I know, there were minor differences between 2003-2008 5 or 6 speeds.
    With exception of the silly clutch slave cylinder delay valve, that was the only known "flaw" with Hyundai's design.
    Just be SURE that thing is removed (the spring and delay valve) and not only will the clutch last a long time, but it feels SO much better shifting too!
    Good luck on your transmission rebuild.
Sign In or Register to comment.