Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems

13

Comments

  • jsf32jsf32 Member Posts: 2
    It is amazing to see how many people have had the same problem and Hyundai does not solve the problem. My car started to have issues if I remember right around 22-24K miles with the clutch slipping on upshifts (about 2 years ago). At the time I also had some paint issues on the car. I took it in and was told that it was my care of the car and driving that caused the issues. Well that is such a slap in the face. I have always taken good care of my cars. I change my oil every 2K miles. Change antifreeze anually, clean injectors periodically, wash the car and wax it regularly, etc. I was particularly upset about the clutch issue. I have a 1976 Porsche 914 with the original clutch at 48K miles, a 1999 Mustang with the original clutch at 50K miles and drove a Ford Probe to 88K miles before it needed a clutch.

    Due to the answer I received from the dealer I asked to have a factory rep look at the car. He was as arrogant or worse than the service manager. He looked at the car. He said the paint was from birds and me not cleaning the car. He looked in the door well and saw a little dirt and said I do not clean it. This was after it rained heavy for 2 days and the car was out in it. Of course though he did have the fuel filler cap repainted that had faded to gray. He then told me I have poor clutch skills and that the clutch is not faulty. Then he had the nerve to tell me a friend of his races the same car with a supercharger and has not blown the clutch. Well that I am sure is not true. Anyone supercharging the car and racing it is not going to keep a stock clutch. I have been around cars my whole 38 years. My father was a mechanic and said he was sure it was not my driving.
    Now I am ready to go back after the dealer about the clutch. I want them to tell me it is my driving when the car now has 48K miles on it on the same clutch I supposedly wore out at 22K miles. WOW. I doubled the milage on a clutch I wore out at 22K. Guess that is some pretty bad driving.
    I f someone starts another lawsuite, please post it. I am in on that (if I do not unload the car first). I have been so frustrated by the arrogance of Hyundai and their lack of ethics.
  • jsf32jsf32 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    Of course I did not mention that the car also blew a brake cable at the cost of $100 and had to have both rear calipers replaced this past spring at about 43K miles. That should never happened at that low milage. And of course now the radio also has a reception issue. I am hoping that is just a loose antenna wire. Have not had a chance to check that yet. I have owned several cars and this car is by far the worst. My 11 year old Mustang has only cost me about $1000 in all that time (recently new brakes and shocks). This car has cost me more than that in just 6 years.
  • tiburonclutchtiburonclutch Member Posts: 1
    I just am experiencing the EXACT same problem with the exact car you have. I have been driving mini coopers and other stick shift cars for almost 40 years and have NEVER had a clutch go out until 200,000 miles. This car is at 19,000 miles and the dealer service just told me how much -above like you I might have to pay. I told him he was nuts....I am an attorney. Please respond if you are considering a class action on the 2007 tiburon. I will try to find the appropriate legal process for us. This is ridiculous. Thank you, Jean Farley
  • janny225janny225 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, my son has a 2007 with 48,000 miles on it. His clutch just went and Hyundai is saying he needs to shell out $1700 to fix it. This is their problem, not his. Plus he is a young man in the miliary. He does not have this kind of money.
    I think it is a shame that Hyundai does not stand behind their products and shoddy clutches. It is obvious from this forum that they are well aware of this problem and refuse to do anything about it. I would welcome a class action suit for 2007 Tiberons! :mad:
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Look at my post.. #67
    The answer is there.
    As far as the existing clutch, its probably already shot.
    However.. if you DO the simple mod as mentioned in the post, you will NO LONGER have clutch problems!
    It isnt really a design flaw.. it's a functionality flaw.
    Trying to make the clutch action super smooth and yet, wear the clutch out prematurely.
    I have over 60K on my car, and 4 years.
    Clutch works fantastic.
    It works like a manual should when you do the mod.
    Good luck.
    :)
  • spencierspencier Member Posts: 1
    My Clutch is not going in gear even when its Brand new!!!!!!!!!!

    My problem started when i couldn't get the car in gear, i would actually have to turn off the car and put it in gear and start from there. Its a Hyundai Tiburon 2006, i put a brand new clutch in and a clutch master cylinder but im still having problems putting it in gear PLEASE SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi.
    There is a possiblity that your clutch master and slave still have air somewhere in them.
    Did you do the clutch mod that asks to remove the little spring and small valve in your clutch slave? (See post #67).
    Typically, if the clutch slave is not pressing the clutch fork far enough, the clutch will not release the input shaft of the transmission, and you wont be able to shift into gear well, or at all. (grinding).
    The exact opposite of a worn slipping clutch that wont keep the engines flywheel tight against the clutch disk which wont keep the
    Since both the Clutch master and Slave can have air in them, continue to bleed the clutch and be sure the slave is pushing the pin hard enough against the clutch fork.
    This can be felt in the clutch pedal, but if you have the delay valve, it numbs the feeling.
    Sometimes, the new clutch master cylinder can actually be bad.. right out of the box!
    Keep that in mind.
    If I were you, Id replace the slave as well just for good measure.
    They aren't horribly expensive, and you can look for the valve in that as well.
    It is installed inside the fluid hose side of the slave cylinder coming directly off from the clutch master cylinder.
    The last possiblity is the clutch disk or pressure plate was the incorrect size, or the throw out bearing is not the right type.
    If it was a new clutch (not re manufactured) I would be less inclined to think it's the problem.
    Did you install the new clutch? Or a dealer/shop?
    Did it drive, or is it in the driveway with a new clutch?
    Was the flywheel resurfaced?
    Start with the bleeding procedure and take the delay valve and spring out first.
    Make sure there are no leaks, and use a good fluid..
    Dot 3 is ok, but Dot 4 is even better. (higher boiling point, and makes the clutch smoother).
    Dont use Dot 5.
    Also, one last thing..
    Once you replace your clutch master, people tend to forget you need to put some silicon grease on the PEDAL shaft inside the car.
    Eventually, it will squeak alot and drive you crazy.
    LOL
    Good luck!
  • lois17lois17 Member Posts: 2
    I did finally get my clutch fixed under the warranty after going to two different dealerships and getting the general manager involved. It was a dog fight, but I finally got the dealership that I bought the car from to at least pull the transmission and diagnose the problem at no charge to me. Once they did that, they discovered that there was a broken flywheel, and because they were not able to say without a doubt that it was driver error, they fixed it under warranty. It's too bad, because I really do love the car, but now I am very gun shy about this happening again. I dont want to be scutinized every 25000 miles when the clutch goes out. I suggest that anyone having the transmission pulled and clutch repaired, get pictures of the clutch and have them examined by a trusted mechanic, especially if your vehicle is still under the warranty.
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Glad you got it taken care of. :)
    Hyundai uses a dual inertia type flywheel, so for it to break that meant it got pretty hot.
    Im sure with a really weak disk (due to slipping by the ridiculus, clutch slave delay valve) the pressure plate couldnt keep the disk sandwiched to the flywheel tightly, and as a result, literally warped the metal to all hell, and im sure cracking it.
    As long as you remove the slave cylinder delay valve, I can assure you, you wont have a clutch problem like this again.
    Over 60K on mine.. and I bought it at 16K.
    I couldn't understand why the clutch felt so odd, and suspected the clutch master, or slave was somehow "slowing", or "delaying" the clutch engagement.
    I was right.
    I went online and found a guy on a Tiburon Forum that suggested removing the Clutch slave delay valve.
    It did the trick.
    The clutch feels like all other manual transmission cars out there.
    No slipping, no slow takeup of drive.
    Just perfect.
    My gas mileage went up, and I have had no problem with my clutch.
    :)
    I did this just a month or so after I bought her.
    I've had her since February 2006.
    Just don't forget to do this little easy mod, and you should be fine.
    Good Luck!
    :shades:
  • gpenngpenn Member Posts: 1
    A clutch should not wear out at 50k. I too am having a similar problem at 50k and the dealer and Hyundai will not acknowledge the problem. It floors me that they have been sued for this in the past and they are playing dumb once again. This problem exists in the Tiburon, Elantra and the Sonota. And they all have the same clutch assemblies. To make matters worse. They are keeping the clutch from the after market mfg companies, so they can rape customers on the sale of a replacement. I too will join any legal action on this.
  • rbailinrbailin Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    My brother just had his 2004 Tiburon (GT V6 6sp, 76K miles) into the dealer because the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. They insisted he needed a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel, cover & release bearing for $2300. Apparently after re-assembly, they still couldn't get the clutch to release, so they ended up replacing first the master & then the slave cylinders. It STILL would not release so they tore it down and discovered that the new replacement clutch cover was defective.

    When we went to pickup the car, they said there was no charge for the master & slave cylinder in order to stick to the original $2300 estimate. We asked for the old parts back, and examined them before paying the bill. The clutch had very minimal wear (wear limit at the rivets is 1mm and there was at least 3mm), and on both the clutch cover and the flywheel you could still see 98% of the original machining marks on the contact surfaces.

    At first the only problems I noticed were that the clutch cover surface showed minor signs of heat stress (blue discoloration) and the flywheel surface had quite bit of surface rust (very unusual because the clutch should fully disengage from both surfaces and clean off any rust upon re-engagement).

    But then I noticed that the hub area of the dual-mass flywheel was cocked. According to the mechanic who worked on the car, this hub is supposed to allow some axial movement but no lateral movement, and needed to be replaced. The seal surrounding the hub was also distorted and not lying flat against the surface.

    We went back to the service manager and insisted that the flywheel was defective and should be covered under warranty. After much discussion, during which we gave another look at the flywheel hub, we finally noticed that the hub ring edge was ragged and, in fact at some point had broken off and fallen out without damaging the clutch in the process! They agreed to cover the flywheel under warranty ($1100) even though they claimed that it was unlikely that Hyundai would grant it and the dealership would have to eat the cost.

    I've never had a clutch need replacement before 150K miles of driving (or 10 years) and never had a flywheel break on me (after all, on most designs what is there to break besides the ring gear?). In my opinion there is a problem with both the design or q.c. of the dual-mass flywheel, and having a check valve in the slave cylinder that's causing all this premature clutch wear, especially with experienced standard transmission drivers. A class action suit should cover all models that use the dual-mass flywheel, from 2004 to end of Tiburon production.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAMember Posts: 9,400
    While frustrations are understandable when dealing with a problem with your vehicle, the Edmunds forums can NOT be used to organize legal actions, so please don't make any posts along those lines as they will have to be removed.

    Thanks for your participation and cooperation on following the rules of the road in the forums
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    I agree with your post, and find the information very detailed.
    If the metal itself is prone to rusting, I could see pressure plate forces, due to the altered angle of the pressure plate to disc against the flywheel effectively sticking, overheating and not disengaging the real deal.
    However, this isn't happening in all cases from what I understand, but many of them.
    It is important for anyone who is having this issue, have the clutch ASSESSED properly by a well trained mechanic.
    Id consider getting the people who work on these car's to be involved in any potential legal action.
    Of course, as the Host has stipulated, Edmunds cannot be held responsible for legal action created on this website.
    There are other forums online that are generating these.
    Still, the issue with the clutch slave delay valve and spring helps destroy the clutches in these cars in a rather short period of time.
    The dual mass flywheel may be partly to blame, particularly if rust AND overheating, all caused by the silly delay valve work together.
    An overheated clutch along with either salt water from de-ice,(very severe rust potential) or just rainwater entering the bell housing could promote rusting particularly if the clutch metals used have a high iron content.
    That is why I am saying to consider the possiblity that something simple.. like the delay valve IS the main culprit.
    Not only the clutch design. ;)
  • bhoosebhoose Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon that has just hit 68,000 miles and I have now replaced the clutch three times! Hyundai won't replace a damn thing. They say it's my fault. I mean sure, I like to down shift when jumping on the highway, but who doesn't? I don't drive the car hard. Even IF I did, how the hell can you burn through 3 "good quality clutches" in such a short time? I would avoid these cars all together if possible, but if stuck with a payment, I would reccommend an aftermarket clutch and flywheel. The factory ones that Hyundai puts on your car will jusy for be shot again in no time. I bought an F1 stage one racing clutch kit of of e-bay for less than 120 bucks AFTER shipping. It's cheaper, it they actually work! Hyundai dealers are worthless *******, just like the parts that they manufacture. Really, that is the only major problem I have had with the car. Everything else has been great. I know some of my friends who drive 03s have issues with brakes. They also have more miles on their car than I do. Hyundai doesn't care about you! As soon as it's paid off, I'm trading it in for a Camaro.
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    edited January 2011
    Remove the clutch slave cylinder spring and delay valve the factory installed as Original Equipment.
    ANY time you use the clutch, it actually ruins it by making it sliip for an excessive period of time until it fully releases.
    Depending on RPM, the destruction of clutch material on the disc results in other damage to the Pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing as the loads change rapidly due to wear.
    The part is simple to remove, and will stop all the wear you are encountering.
    Yep.. this is a stupid engineering idea for them to put a "delay" valve to improve clutch "feel" at the cost of major wear.
    Do the mod, and your clutch will feel like a normal clutch, with perfect engagement.
    I agree that Hyundai should have done a recall on this part and eliminated it from the car altogether.
    I have over 60K on mine and never had a clutch fail.
    But it would have otherwise with the delay valve.
    Just remove the slave cylinder, unbolt the banjo fitting and remove the little spring and its part with the hole in it.
    Put it all back together and refill and bleed your brake fluid.
    Add a touch of grease on the tip that contacts the clutch fork.
    Good luck. :)
  • seanyourwongseanyourwong Member Posts: 1
    i just had to sign up to tell u your wrong. The problem is with the bearing and pressure plate unfortunately the I O D of the pressure plate is to large causing a bind on the fork and cannot smoothly engage the pad and flywheel this is what causes the slip and the heat fractures "prematurely" and causes supposed failure however they can be machined for around 60 bucks. ;)

    Hyundai should stick to something a bit easier like maybe go carts if you want to buy a car by a honda and leave the loud mufflers and wheels for the Hyundai guys, those cars wont be around to much longer thank god.
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    The problem with the clutch to begin with IS indeed beginning with the clutch slave delay valve.
    If there is an additional design flaw with the clutch fork and throwout alignment, that is the result of the overheating and warping in the first place caused by the intended, "slipping" Hyundai designed into the clutch system to improve clutch feel.
    If the I O D is off, it will only make the problem worse.
    It is not likely the general cause.
    Anytime metal is fatigued with overheating, warping can cause all kinds of interference issues.
    The INTENTIONAL design of slippage causes serious heat damage.
    So.. no.. I am not wrong and you are not completely right.
    You didnt consider the repercussions of just the act of overheating the clutch in general.
    It is the cause of ALL clutch failure to the disc, at the pressure plate and the flywheel.
    Your added info is interesting, but it is NOT the end failure result by itself.
    It is only magnifying the problem by that stupid delay valve.
    Yes, I believe Hyundai should rectify this regardless.
    :)
  • 63taz63taz Member Posts: 1
    I've got an 06 gt tiburon....I love the vehicle .... today my husband complained about the clutch slipping and a terrible smell when he downshifted to pass and went back up into 5th gear. I have just over 103,000 miles on this car and knock on wood this is the very first issue I've had with it. If we do the slave cylinder mod now will it help.... I haven't noticed any slipping and I'm the one who drives it everyday but in the last 2 years haven't done as many trips as I had been doing. This is the very first time I've had this problem and the clutch burning smell.
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Well, it sounds like in your situation, the clutch is finally worn out.
    If you were doing a great deal of Hwy driving, that is likely why your clutch has lasted as long as it has.
    There is typically little shifting done when you do long road trips.
    If you had removed the clutch slave delay valve early in the car's life, your clutch would be fine.
    But, not alot of people know about this problem.
    If you are careful, and don't continue to drive on the clutch with its current condition, you might be able to get away with only a resurface of your flywheel.. but a word of caution.... it should be inspected carefully for any cracking, or severe warping and replaced if in question.
    The friction disc is currently worn out, and your pressure plate can no longer provide enough clamping force to keep it sandwiched to the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged.
    When you do replace your clutch, be SURE to remove the clutch slave delay valve!!
    Then this wont happen again anytime soon.
    I would recommend having your engine rear main seal replaced while your flywheel is removed as good measure, and also replace both transmission output shaft seals (one on each side of the transmission, where the cv axles enter.
    As far as the clutch itself, I recommend a clutch kit, and try to go aftermarket NEW for good measure.
    There are some great companies out there that make better than stock clutches, so they make a good investment for better long term performance.
    (provided the clutch delay valve is out.. he he).
    You can just go for a stock replacement, unless you want to add more mods to the car, ( for more hp) which a stronger than stock clutch will be of benefit.
    You can go used OEM style for a clutch, but I don't think its worth the lower cost longterm.
    They are reconditioned older parts with a history of known weaknesses.
    I hope this helps.
    Good luck!
    :)
  • shadowh127shadowh127 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my Tiburon 14 months ago with 15000 miles on it. It now has 35300 miles. I've had it in to the dealership over a dozen times for various problems; on 3 occasions reported problems with the clutch. (but because they couldn't replicate the problem it got dismissed.) I've been noticing over the past few weeks its become harder to drive; doesn't accelerate like it should. Sooooo, I took it back to the dealership and was informed its the clutch! I was told it will cost me around $3000 because its the dual fly wheel. My first thought was, I bought the extended warranty, isn't this covered - NO! I started researching on the net and found an amazing number of people reporting the same problem. At the advisement of the Dealer service tech, I called the Hyundai consumer number. After explaining the problem (and also pointing out all the issues across the country with clutches from many of their Tiburon models and siting the civil case in the 2003 clutch) she called the dealership. I was told they can tear the car apart at no upfront cost and if they find a manufacture's defect then there will be no charge to replace it. But if they try to worm there way out of fixing it (by saying driver fault) then I pay $500 + to get it back together and/or fixed. I told the consumer rep that there should be a recall for this issue and she was "noting" it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! :sick:
  • rksterlingrksterling Member Posts: 1
    We just changed the clutch out on a '03 Tiburon. Changed the Flywheel, Disc, Pressure plate & release bearing. Less than a 1000 miles later its doing the same thing. We tried adjusting the free play on the pedal and it fixed it for a little bit while testing.

    It still doesnt release disc completely. When in gear and releasing the clutch it luggs engine properly with 1" - 1 1/2" of pedal release, but still doesnt allow to shift into gear.

    My question is...... since the pressure plate is a pull type design, is there a possiblity that the release fork is pulling the release bearing off center causing the disc to not release evenly? Is there a way of adjusting the release fork?

    Rick
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Yes.
    The system is actually a push type system which uses the clutch master, to build pressure, to activate the clutch slave cylinder, which presses a rod against the fork, then the clutch fulcrums on a ball inside the bell housing, which in turn moves the Throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers, releasing the clutch.
    The central problem with these cars begins with the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. (which needs to be removed).
    The one thing I am concerned about it you could have a slightly bent input shaft, which causes the friction plate to jam slightly with either the flywheel face, or the clutch pressure plate itself.
    It is a possibility, or it the throwout bearing fork and related hardware are bent, or damaged.
    Alignment is crucial, and so is adequate tightening of parts.
    There could be a burr on the flywheel surface where the bolts connect to the Engine crankshaft causing a slight "tilt".
    The Pilot bearing could be misaligned.
    The replacement parts are Reconditioned (rebuilt) and were done improperly.
    The clutch and all its parts may not all be correct.
    The disk might be ok, but the throwout bearing is wrong.. or the pressure plate is wrong for instance (and a couple different ways back and forth with all these parts).
    If the engine LUGS that means there is a connection still occuring at the disk.. so there is definately a problem with the transmission being allowed to "free wheel".. which is what the clutches job is. (release).
    Obviously, the clutch needs to be disassembled again.. :(
    I am not sure if you did the clutch, or someone else did.. but just go back through it, and be SURE all torque settings are correct, all parts are smooth and ALIGNED.. with a slight amount of grease put into the clutch disk splines, and the throwout bearing sliding surface.
    Use High temp grease if possible.
    Hope this helps. ;)
  • way2fam0usway2fam0us Member Posts: 1
    With ya'll in the same boat.. I have an 04 Hyundai Tiburon GT and at 125k the clutch pedal wouldn't spring all the way back up when released and there were terrible grinding noises. Took it to the dealership and they said it's the clutch, bearings, and flywheel. $2300. Friggin' Korean car!!!!!
  • amyjo2amyjo2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Tiberon. When I hit 60,000 miles in 2008, my clutch first went out and was told I needed to replace it. So I did. 9,000 miles later (13 months), it was doing the same thing again. I had to pay another $60 for them to bleed the line and change the clutch fluid. Now, 21,000 miles later (2 more years), it's happening again and they are telling me I will need a new clutch AGAIN, at my expense of $950. My question is, don't these official Hyundai dealerships have to be held accountable for the work they do? How can they just turn around and say that and not have any accountability for the defective crap they are putting in my car? Has anyone out there ever had success getting the dealership to man-up and take responsibility for these [non-permissible content removed] clutches? :(
  • mud63mud63 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tiburon. My clutch went out, well it is slipping, I can drive it, as long it is a short distance. As soon as it gets warmed up It starts to slip. Anyway I have 130,000 mile approx. a little less but close enough. I think my clutch lasted fairly well. I don't do a lot of highway driving. I have 15 stop lights and then 6 stop signs everyday to work. So I believe I have or had a great clutch. I am not a slow driver, I blend through traffic very well. I am praying that the new clutch kit I put in works as well. give me 5 years and I will be happy. I just need to know if it matters if I put in a slightly different size disc, will it matter. I guess I need to check my owners manual to see what size clutch plate etc. is factory for my car. Disc mm: 215; Disc In: 8-7/16; Splines Dia: 7/8; Splines: 20 is what I was going to buy. but there is another listed as standard, but what is standard? And is there a problem if I buy a 8-1/2" instead?
  • kimmiekatkimmiekat Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
  • pluckedchickenpluckedchicken Member Posts: 1
    I see the clutch problem has been going on for a while...

    I am looking at buying a '03 Tiburon GT, and won't waste my money if the clutch problem was never resolved.

    Did Hyundai ever own up to the problem, and provide a permanent fix?
  • ryanwhistleryanwhistle Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone i recently bought an 03 tiburon gt. I was told that the clutch was replaced with a f1 stage 2 racing clutch. Ive been driving the car for about 5000 miles and recently ive been noticing its slipping. obviously ive been driving the car a little fast but that still should not cause this much premature wear on the clutch. It usually only slips in third and fourth gear and it seems to be only slipping when ive been driving the car for a while almost like its heating up..im very lost and dont even know where to start looking anyone have any ideas of what i can check to narrow down the problem? or any suggestions?
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi there.
    I have actually made several replies to this issue.
    Try looking at maybe.. Post #95.
    There is a solid solution to solving this issue, but your friction disc is probably gone already. :(
    Its the Clutch Slave Cylinder Delay Valve.. Remove it, and your issues will vanish with your next replacement.
    Dont hesistate.. get it out of there.
    Good luck!
    :shades:
  • ryanwhistleryanwhistle Member Posts: 2
    could you possibly send me a link to a video on removing the clutch cylinder delay valve? i have no idea what that is and do i just have to replace the clutch disk? or will the flywheel and everything else have to be replaced as well
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hey there.
    Heres the main link:

    http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1962&highlight=clutch+slip

    You might be able to salvage the flywheel, but it will need to be resurfaced more than likely.. have it inspected closely for cracking as well.
    The throwout bearing should be fine.
    Id defineately replace the Disc (obviously) and the Pressure plate without question.
    Whatever you do.. make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced !!
    If you ignore it, it will more than likely create a condition called clutch "judder".. which is caused by the surface of the flywheel not being smooth, like the disc and pressure plate will be.
    It will cause a type of on again off again feel.. like a brake rotor does when its warped.
    Considering the damn clutch delay valve has been slipping your clutch for the last 5000 miles, the flywheel has heat damage.. believe me.
    I wish you best of luck!
    :)
  • alandavidalandavid Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Tib - 39K miles.
    Clutch started slipping, took it in, needs new clutch and flywheel.

    My questions
    1. The slave cylinder delay valve / spring mod applies to the 2006 model too ?
    2. Define 'hard driving' as it pertains to a clutch. Does that mean high speeds, or frequent shifting or what ?
    3. A few times I've been caught in bumper to bumper traffic on a freeway, crawling along too slow to leave the clutch out. Is there anything I should do in the situation ?

    My miles have been mostly in-city, although now I commute on the highway, so future miles will be most likely cruising in 5th gear for the most part.

    Any advice (along with the slave cyclindar mod) would be appreciated !
    Alan
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi there.
    The answer is yes.. 2006 is under the same issue for the delay valve.
    Anytime.. I mean anytime.. the clutch is used, the excess wear is in effect.
    That Delay valve really makes the clutch slip.
    Kind of like when you are first learning how to drive a manual.. you slip the clutch in fear of stalling it.
    This is the way this thing works ALL the time!
    It makes the clutch feel, "smoother".
    You might already have enough damage (see my earlier post) that will mitigate the need for a new disk, pressure plate.. and possibly either a replacement flywheel, or a resurface. (have a clutch shop look closely at it).
    At 39K, its just old enough to consider a full clutch kit anyway.
    If you have gone 39K on a clutch thats known to have an issue.. you are doing great compared to many here.
    I kind of doubt you have been, "hard driving" the clutch to death.
    Honestly, it only applies when someone mods the engine.. adds another 100 HP at the wheels and races all the time shifting as fast as he/she can to the nearest grocery store!
    Obviously, you havent been doing anything of the sort.
    You have been driving in city.. which is also remarkable that the clutch hasn't failed sooner.
    No matter what happens.. replacing the Delay valve is IMPERATIVE for your clutch to last a long time.
    My tib has over 75K on it and its the Original clutch.
    I removed the delay valve at 16K.
    Besides increasing life greatly.. it FEELS so much better.. Positive engagements..
    You wont believe the difference.
    Good luck! :shades:
  • alandavidalandavid Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response !

    I'm looking forward to pulling the thing out ASAP.
    I've been reading what I can about driving a manual transmission (it's always possible to learn something new ).

    I guess I've tended to hold the clutch in as I'm slowing and stopping at lights. I've read that you should just put it in neutral instead.

    Will running the car in neutral like this have any negative effects on the
    transmission ?
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi again.
    Putting the car in neutral is fine, but your way isnt bad either.
    If you are coasting to a stop, having the clutch in is going to happen anyway, because you are going to be going into a lower gear one way or another as you go slower and slower. (speed matching the gear).
    It will allow for a faster gear engagement because the clutch is already engaged, and in some cases, might give you more time to avoid an accident!
    In stop and go situations, you are forced to let out, then press in over and over.
    Par for the course.
    I rarely go into neutral in most cases.
    On the road, coasting a long hill, with a manual, you can in essance put the car in neutral.
    I have heard different views on this because while in neutral, the gears are not engaged to the main shaft.. and the gear oil, on a long neutral stint, may actually under lubricate the bearings and cause damage.
    Particularly bad on Automatics.
    (long as in something in excess of a couple miles).
    I think going into neutral coming to a stop is ok, but it depends on the situation.
    For braking downshifts.. (while having fun) this uses compression braking.
    The Engine itself provides slowing down of the car through the gears.
    This isnt a good idea for long term use because you are doing more down shifts.. which means more clutch use.
    Using your brakes are far cheaper, and easier to repair than a clutch.
    Honestly, use what method works for you.
    Neither going into neutral coming to a stop, nor having the clutch engaged and then going into 1st is going to really matter.
    Once the clutch is disengaged (your pedal is down) there is zero wear on the clutch disk.
    Its always when engaging the wear happens.
    Regardless.. you are going to have to go into SOME gear when you are stopped and want to move again.
    LOL
    There is another thing you can do to increase clutch life.
    Skip shifts.
    You can move from first, to 3rd, then to 5th.
    You can essentially be in 5th gear as early as 45 Mph.
    Watch for lugging.. if the engine RPM drops below 1500 on ANY shift in any particular gear and you notice the engine starts laboring some, and goes rough... it means there is too little power to travel at the speed you are driving at in the gear you are currently in.
    Shift back down a gear.
    Also.. when I meant it might be time to go ahead and get a clutch kit.. for 39K.. Its because you are going to have it apart anyway, and even if one or more of the parts was salvagable, its got just enough mileage to not reuse the old stuff.
    Start fresh.
    Also.. dont forget to remove the clutch slave delay valve.. LOL
    Best of Luck! :shades:
  • alandavidalandavid Member Posts: 3
    Finally got my Tibby back today, after a week. New Clutch, New Fly, AND the mechanic did the clutch slave delay valve mod for me.

    It feels GREAT ! God how I missed my Tibby - all hub-bub and money aside,
    I could have driven it all day when I left the shop.

    The clutch feels like a clutch (finally, not again).

    After driving a 4 cylinder automatic for the last seven days, it was such a pleasure to sink back into the shark. :)
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hey there.
    Glad to hear everything worked out.
    Yes, the Clutch Slave Delay Valve mod REALLY makes a difference!
    I tell people who have the Tiburon I meet around town If they have Manuals, to get in there right away and take out that Clutch Delay Valve if they want to save their existing clutch longer and that it restores proper, "feel" of the clutch action, and control at the Stick.
    Makes the car more fun.
    The added bonus is no premature wear.
    :shades:
  • jkleejklee Member Posts: 4
    I'm thinking about buying a 2008 tiburon with 35k miles on it. I've heard about the clutch problems and was told that they can be prevented by removing the delay valve.

    Obviously the benefits of removing the delay valve would be that the transmission is smoother, but are there any disadvantages?
    I'm a little uncomfortable with removing something from my car. I'm just worried that I won't be covered by insurance or something because I modified the car.

    And if i were to remove the delay valve, is the car worth getting?
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Absolutely no cons at all.
    I have 80k on my tib, took out the delay valve at 16k.
    Still works great.
    The delay valve is a pure pain i'n the butt to leave in and wipes out your clutch prematurely.
    I'd say, if the car has 38k and has been driven lightly and possibly mostly highway, it should be ok.
    No guarantees..
    But yes.. If the valve has not been removed, it's on a timer.
    Maybe someone already took it out reading in the forums?
    It's easy to tell if it hasn't.
    Any person who has driven a manual trans will immediately feel the excess slip.
    It's very easy to remove the valve and it brings the clutch back to a normal feel.
    Gigantic improvement.
    So.. Being as time tested as my 04 with 80k now.. All original clutch!
    No issues and nothing but grins. :)
    My professional opinion and experience.. Absolutely remove the silly delay valve and the spring.
    Best of luck!
    ;)
  • hazard2000hazard2000 Member Posts: 1
    I just had to post on this because this was the only post on the 2nd generation tibby. seems like the 3rd gens are pieces of crap. I have a 2000 tibby i bought with 35 miles on it. I currently have 170k and still going strong with the orginal clutch that came on the car. Maybe 01 to 03 hyundai must have really messed something up with the drive train because i have no slipping,pulling i have drove my car hard.
  • jkleejklee Member Posts: 4
    how will I know if the clutch is slipping? I'm just starting to learn how to drive a manual, so I won't be able to tell if the clutch is slipping or I just suck at driving stick.
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi,
    In your case, your right... you won't. ;-P
    It takes some at least basic experience to feel the difference.
    If you have someone you know that has something other than a Tiburon, I suggest trying it out.. then driving the tibby.
    In some ways, the slipping clutch the delay valve brings to the Tib will make you a better clutch user, because the delay actually promotes slipping.. much like a early stick driver.
    The easiest method is to just go ahead and remove the delay valve.. if its there, then good, if it isnt.. thats fine too.
    As long as its G O N E.
    If you are learning a stick on the Tib, do it the way it should have been all along.
    No clutch slave delay valve.
    Id teach you myself if I could.
    Ive taught several people how to drive stick.
    Its about timing with rpm, and understanding where the clutch engages and when to shift.
    However, its about experience..
    Practice daily.
    After about a month or so of almost daily driving.. even just short trips, and on back roads perferably (with no traffic.. which is great).
    Learn about easy engagement.. Not banging into gears.. smooth.. think smooth.
    Find the point it engages.. move ahead, clutch in.. brake..
    Find neutral.. brake.
    Go back into first.. when below 15 mph..
    Press the clutch back in.. Brake again.
    Start off.. Start and stop.. Gain confidence.
    That will teach massive control skills.
    If the engine RPM is below 1500 RPM, shift DOWN a gear.. If its over 1800-2000 RPM.. Shift UP. (while driving Easy, this is the common spread of RPM in most cars).
    Hard shifting.. you can take it to 5-6K.. and move to the next gear fast.. But, with experience.. not until then. :-P
    Move through each gear.. skip shifting can come with time (1st to 3rd to 5th (or 6th on the SE).
    SMOOTH..
    All new drivers slip the clutch.
    The 03 and on Tibby's do it ALL the time with the valve.. which wears out the clutch way too early and causes alot of damage in most cases.
    Good luck!
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    The 1st Gen tibby didnt have a clutch problem like the 03 and later.
    Nobody ever talks about them at all.
    Which is great.
    They did use a similar engine and transmission.. the Beta 2.0 was still pretty much the same.
    The only major diff was the new head with variable valve timing used beginning 2003.
    And of course, a completely new body.
    I have heard of some people complaining of the shift forks going out on the 1st gens, but that's not all as common as the Failing clutches of the 03 and later Tibs.
    Its such a silly, and easy fix to remove the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. it makes me almost sick to my stomach that Hyundai even had such a part installed!
    Dont know much about the 3rd gens.. because to me.. they are just 2nd gens with a refresh.
    Hyundai didnt change much at all mechanically.
    Im pretty sure they use the same silly delay valve in all the 5 and 6 speeds.
    :P
  • jkleejklee Member Posts: 4
    I've been practicing on my friend's 2001 honda civic, but I still stall every once in a while. My main problem is getting the car to start moving smoothly. I either burnout or stall. With his honda civic I'm able to half-clutch which makes it a bit easier, but he told me that you can't do half-clutches with a tiburon. Is that true?
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    The slipping action of the stock (delay valve and spring still in place) makes your clutch feel awkward in general on a tib.
    It feels like it has a long pedal, and no definate engagement feel.
    I would agree with his assessment.
    Honda makes some very smooth clutches, and great transmission feel.
    But.. they are also low on torque.. so stalling is easier.
    On a Honda, my advice is to move the clutch AND gas pedal evenly as possible.
    The engine needs alittle more RPM to get moving, with an even clutch disengagement as you begin.
    Once moving, you can release the clutch all the way out alittle faster and can let up some on the gas.
    Your stalling is due to the car not being in motion, and giving the car not quite enough gas (to boost torque).
    For years, Honda has made cars like this.
    Until 2006, with the New 1.8, and any 2.0 engine (SI civic) the torque was up noticably so it made it easier to learn how to drive a stick.
    The 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 Engines were all low on torque at low rpm, making it harder to clutch without slipping it more, and running the rpm higher for smooth take offs.
    I promise.. you'll get it right.
    Practice..practice..practice.
    ;)
  • jkleejklee Member Posts: 4
    Whenever I'm stopped at a hill with my friend's civic, I can just use the half-clutch to keep the car from rolling back. Since tiburon's don't have the half-clutch, are there any tricks that I can use for uphill starts?

    Also, if I do need to replace the clutch, do you know how much a clutch kit for a tiburon could cost?
  • jemtecjemtec Member Posts: 40
    Hi,
    I have heard of a "Hill Holder" clutch.. but that is a Subaru thing.
    Hmmm..
    Uphill starting is kind of nerve racking.
    It's hard to not slip the clutch alittle due to the additional power the car needs to overcome the grade of the hill.
    Honestly, I would suggest NOT doing alot of hill climbing from a stop while you are learning.
    When you get good at general take offs, shifting, starting and stopping in typical traffic.. then come back to hill driving.
    Its harder on your clutch.. no doubt about it doing hills.
    Much like the Clutch slave Delay valve is in general use on a 2003-on Tiburon.
    (why I suggest removing it so much).
    As far as a clutch kit.. I would suggest a stock type kit from an aftermarket supplier as NEW.. not remanufactured.
    If you plan on modding the car, maybe go with a step up with a slightly heavier clutch for more racing type applications.
    Or nuts, and go full race (ceramic button type pressure plate and disk).
    They tend to be harder to press in, but provide alot of clamping force for HP in excess of say, 500 or more.
    You can buy new Hyundai Stock, but its going to cost more than just buying a OEM style aftermarket clutch.
    Keep in mind.. if the clutch is going out, the flywheel might be toast too.
    Its a dual mass flywheel, and I am not sure if there are any aftermarket companies who make them. (Havent checked recently) but typically, you have to buy them from Hyundai.
    Luk makes good clutches. Might look into one from them.
    As far as cost, they vary.. many cost 150.00 and up for a complete kit.. (disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool sometimes, and occasionally a pilot bearing/bushing.
    You might be able to get a cheaper kit.. but be careful and do research on the company if you are looking to save money.
    When it comes to clutches, I like to buy good quality components.
    I hate redoing my work prematurely.
    Otherwise, good luck!
    ;)
  • anthony91anthony91 Member Posts: 1
    i feel you i have a 2006 tiburon that i bought january 7 th of this year and just had to replace my master clutch cylinder and 12 days after that my starter went out and ever where want a rediculas amount of money everytime this stupid car breaks down
  • nicolitanicolita Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05 tiburon se with right under 50,000 miles. I purchased the car in april 2011 with about 41,000 miles and didn't have any problems with it until this month. One day I got in it and noticed the clutch felt very light, now I'm no expert at driving stick as I just learned when I got the car, but I never rode the clutch or grinded gears so I'm wondering if the previous owner drove it rough or if Hyundai is just that cheap with their parts. I was told if it wasn't a hydraulic clutch it could be adjusted and that might fix the problem but I'm pretty sure it is hydraulic so does that mean I just have to replace it, and if so how much am I looking at spending? :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.