Yes and you need to have the odometer reprogrammed with your current mileage or a sticker placed in the doorwell showing date of cluster change and mileage at that time.
You can find a ton of used ones on ebay with some even offering to repair with overnight service. I've tried to check with some of the online GM dealers and it seems they don't offer new replacement clusters. However there are a few aftermarket sources like EverDrive.
I have a 2005 silverado my speedo would go to 0 or be wrong,now my tach is all over the range,also my inst. lts. when dimming will go full bright and dim or out.
THE ONLY THINGS I CAN THINK OF WOULD BE TO CHECK THE MAIN HARNESS PLUG THAT PLUGS INTO THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, IT COULD BE LOOSE SOME HOW. THE ONLY OTHER THING WOULD BE ONE OF THE RELAY'S IN THE MAIN FUSE BOX IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ONE OF THOSE COULD BE GOING OUT, OR COULD JUST HAVE SOME CORROSION ON THE CONTACTS. PULL EACH ONE OUT AND LOOK AT THE PRONGS ON EACH ONE AND MAKE SURE THEY'RE CLEAN. I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU IN SOME WAY, GOOD LUCK.........ANY QUESTIONS, LET ME KNOW.
I have a 2004 GMC K1500 SLT Z71 Pickup. As of late the language on the readout under the speedo has been changing on its own and will not allow me to change it back to English. Has anyone had this problem and does anyone know how to fix it?
I have a 1997 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 with 260,000 miles. Yesterday I started the truck and found the tachometer, odometer and speedometer not working. The transmission indicator line was dark. I assumed it was a fuse. I drove down the street and attempted to ascend a hill only to discover the truck was lacking the power to climb the hill efficiently. It quite literally barely made it up. Any ideas?
When I first crank my 04 sierra the temp gauge works fine, goes up to about 190 because of driving home. After 30 seconds the gauge drops to zero. Anyone have any ideas I have a V8 5.3L
I have a 1994 4X4 with a 5.7 350. It cranks and runs fine for the first cranking of the day or if it has been sitting several hours and cooled off. When I run the truck and get it to normal operating temperature then turn it off for a few then try to crank it again, it will start up then go dead. I can do this a couple of times and it cranks. Once cranked it runs fine. I can cut the AC off and it seems to crank easier also. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
I CAN'T BE 100% SURE, BUT THIS SOUNDS LIKE A VAPOR LOCK TO ME. HAVE YOU CHANGED OUT THE ORIGINAL GAS CAP, OR HAVE YOU TAKEN OUT OR REMOVED THE VACUUM LINES THAT RUN TO THE CANISTER IN THE BACK LEFT HAND CORNER OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT? IT RECEIVES THE FUMES FROM THE CARB AND GAS TANK TO KEEP IT FROM DEVELOPING A VAPOR LOCK. I WOULD LOOK INTO THESE 2 THINGS FIRST AND HOPEFULLY IT FIXES THE PROBLEM. IF NOT, LET ME KNOW, AND I'LL THINK A LITTLE DEEPER ON THIS. (SORRY IT TOOK SO LONG TO REPLY)
I just purchased a 95 GMC Sierra 1500 and the speedometer tachometer & odometer are not working. All the other guages work well. I checked the fuse and it was not blown but I replaced just in case. The horn does not work, and when I turn the wipers on I can hear the motor so I think it just a connection problem because I hit it and the wipers started to work but I they stopped working again and now I can't get them to work again.
My truck has developed a grinding noise under the dash at around 1800 RPM on every shift of the gears. Two different mechanics have no idea what it is. Anyone figured out what this is?
Practically all of my diode lights are out on the CD and radio. I noticed the tech answer above, however, we are to pry of what right corner of what. I assume it is the top of the dash? And what do I use to pry it off and cause less damage?
Start by prying off the trim piece around the speedometer cluster from top left of the dash to the right working your way around the steering column to the center section which holds the a/c controls and the cd/radio.
I have a 05 chevy silverado I had instument cluster trouble in the past had all motors replaced now i notice the engine hours reset back to 0 hours and my prndl sometimes is bright and most times dim has anyone experienced this thanks
have an 06 silverado 3500 with dual climate control and looking through fog to see which function the fan is set at and how my blower is working (whether on the floor or the top vents or defrost or what.) would like to know if this plastic piece just pops out or requires some additional part removal. it looks as though I could just wipe it clean on the inside, but don't want to get too aggressive unless I know it comes out the front or how.
I'm buying a 2000 silverado 1500 to pull a travel trailer, The emergency brake pedal goes all the way down. (I don't know if it works or not, I didn't check that on the test drive). I guess there is a cable attached to it, so if the cable is broke how much of a job is it to replace it? Could it just be an adjustment maybe?
I have an 08 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 Duramax with 68000 miles on it. While driving I've had the dash gauges drop off and the transmission start trying to shift. I've lost my back door locks which I'm not sure is part of the same problem or not. Dealer changed out the fuse block under the hood and the problem stopped for awhile. Well its back. I shut the truck off and it wouldn't start, popped the hooded and tapped on the fuse block and the truck started right up. Service trailer brakes displayed but seems computer resets itself and I lose all codes etc. I've read through some post with similar problems but not finding any answers. Anyone? Please.
I had the same problem on a 95 Silverado. The problem is no or insufficient power to the transmission which throws all sorts of codes and messes up the computer signal which goes to the tach, speedo, and prndl light. First check the Trans fuse to see if it needs replacing. Next check the Trans fuse for power. Should have battery voltage to the fuse socket when switch is in Run (on). Voltage on one side of the fuse socket, no voltage on the other side. If no voltage, it's the ignition switch. Replace switch. If you have battery voltage to the fuse socket, plug the fuse in and check the voltage again (one lead of your multimeter on the fuse, the other lead to ground). You should still have battery voltage. If you have substantially lower voltage then there's a short somewhere. Best plan at this point is to run another wire from a different fuse socket (I selected an unused socket from the fuse block under the hood) to the plug on the transmission. It's a pink wire and can be identified from several wiring diagrams available on the internet.
Comments
Just over a year and a half and the problem raised it's ugly head again with the same exact symptoms.
Does anybody know if there is a recall on the instrument cluster unit that controls gauges etc. and what the details are?
THE ONLY THINGS I CAN THINK OF WOULD BE TO CHECK THE MAIN HARNESS PLUG THAT
PLUGS INTO THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, IT COULD BE LOOSE SOME HOW. THE ONLY OTHER
THING WOULD BE ONE OF THE RELAY'S IN THE MAIN FUSE BOX IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
ONE OF THOSE COULD BE GOING OUT, OR COULD JUST HAVE SOME CORROSION ON THE CONTACTS.
PULL EACH ONE OUT AND LOOK AT THE PRONGS ON EACH ONE AND MAKE SURE THEY'RE CLEAN.
I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU IN SOME WAY, GOOD LUCK.........ANY QUESTIONS, LET ME KNOW.
THANKS,
MR IMPALA (CLESLIE2006)
Thanks
Ron
I CAN'T BE 100% SURE, BUT THIS SOUNDS LIKE A VAPOR LOCK TO ME. HAVE YOU
CHANGED OUT THE ORIGINAL GAS CAP, OR HAVE YOU TAKEN OUT OR REMOVED
THE VACUUM LINES THAT RUN TO THE CANISTER IN THE BACK LEFT HAND CORNER
OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT? IT RECEIVES THE FUMES FROM THE CARB AND GAS
TANK TO KEEP IT FROM DEVELOPING A VAPOR LOCK. I WOULD LOOK INTO THESE 2
THINGS FIRST AND HOPEFULLY IT FIXES THE PROBLEM. IF NOT, LET ME KNOW, AND
I'LL THINK A LITTLE DEEPER ON THIS. (SORRY IT TOOK SO LONG TO REPLY)
THANKS,
CLESLIE2006
CARL
We had the exact same issues. Replace your fuel pump and your gauges will return to nomral and the power will be back.
Gary
Thanks!