Isuzu Trooper Start Problems

troopscoop8troopscoop8 Member Posts: 1
Trying to find out if I am wasting my time attempting to switch my starter out on my 00 trooper. I have the tools, but am unsure if it would be worth taking to the pro's to do. Is it possible to do? If so, how long will it take? Any recomendations??? Thanks,

TroopScoop
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Comments

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I have included description of removal process. I have not done this, so I don't know if there are any shortcuts. Unfortunately, it appears that the exhaust has to be removed, but maybe you can figure out if it is absolutely necessary to remove it completely or just loosen it up to get enough wiggle room to drop the starter. The two links are to the schematics which are referred to by the directions. Good luck , and let us know what you decide to do.!

    REMOVAL
    Battery ground cable.
    Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).

    Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
    Remove heat protector (3).
    Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals "B" and "S" (4).
    Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529d!v=

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529c!v=

    Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
    INSTALLATION

    Install starter assembly (6).
    Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb ft)
    Reconnect the connectors to terminals "B" and "S" and tighten Terminals "B" to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb in)
    Install heat protector (3).
    Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb ft)

    Connect Heated 02 Sensor connector (1).
    Reconnect the battery ground cable.
  • jjokerjjoker Member Posts: 8
    TroopScoop,

    I have replaced the starter on a 1995 and a 1992 trooper and it isn't to much trouble. There is only two bolts that hold the starter up and you can get them out by using a long extension on your ratchet. You can remove the wires to the solenoid before or after you remove the mounting bolts, whatever is easier for you, BUT MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE BATTERY unless you like to see sparks flying from under you car LOL. There is a trick I have learned to get the started out without removing any of the exhaust or A-Frame to the front left wheel. The starter must comes out twords the front of the vehicle. You have to remove a vaccum line that is in the front drive shaft. It sits on top of the shaft and goes straight down into it. You will see what I am talking about when you get under there. Then bend the bracket that holds a couple wire harnesses up slightly to make some more room. Now the Trick is to TURN the front wheels all the way to the RIGHT. This will make enough room for the starter to come out in between the front drive shaft and the steering linkages to the front wheels. You have to position the starter just right but trust me it comes out. Put the new one in the same way you removed the old one and your done. Since the starter is like $200.00 all by itself I would hate to see what they would charge you to replace it at a shop. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Looking for assistance. My son is in Alaska going to college. It's below zero most the time. He has 1999 Isuzu Trooper. It hasn't started since Thanksgiving. Fuel line froze. It would turn over but would not start. Finally wore the battery down. Re-charged and still would not start. Now having a clicking noise coming from the starter area. Had battery checked OK. Pulled starter it's ok. Put on a new starter relay. Still just clicking noise from starter area. Help Please. Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    This is a real shot in the dark but one time I got stuck on the Parks Highway after skiing into a friend's cabin for 3 days. Below zero most of the time. My minivan would not crank even with a jump when we got back to the highway. It just clicked too.

    Some mechanic from Trapper Creek stopped and messed with the distributor cap and got the timing adjusted enough to get it going and I got back home fine. Or maybe he fixed a flaky ground while fooling with the cap, since clicking usually means the relay or starter solenoid. Since the starter checks out, I'd check the battery connections at both ends before checking the cap, but who knows.

    Well, someone here should know better than me. :shades:
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Thanks I'll have him take a look. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again. Butch
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    The "No Start" Problems discussion would be another good place to look for help until Atfdmike or Paisan stumbles in here.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, How exactly was the starter checked? I ask because as was mentioned previously, your symptoms are generally due to a bad starter motor or solenoid, more likely the starter motor if you are hearing a click. There is a starter relay, I believe in the under hood fuse/relay box that may also click, but generally not as loud as the solenoid. Is that the relay you refer to? If you CAREFULLY jumper the starter solenoid by using CAREFULLY a heavy short screwdriver or such, to connect the two large threaded lugs on the back of the solenoid the starter motor should energise. Be extremely careful to ONLY jump these two items and not anything else or a dead short could occur. PLEASE don't attempt this if you are not confident that the vehicle is in neutral, or park, wheels chocked,and that it is safe to crank and start: if the ignition is on the engine will start if the starter motor is working. The large gage wire comes directly from the battery and is always at 12 volts. If the motor does not engage or sounds like it is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, then the bendix gear and assembly are frozen/bad. Can you be mistaking the spinning motor or not hearing it and think this is the clicking sound? Still need a starter at that point. If nothing happens, then still need a starter. IF it does start doing this, then the solenoid is bad, assuming the smaller gage wire on the back of the solenoid is plugged in to it. You can replace the solenoid, but it is still necessary to get access to the starter. Most people opt to replace starter and solenoid as a unit.
    I hope this helps. Are you sure the fuel line is OK now? Cranking on a starter for long periods will overheat it and eventually kill it. Trying to crank with low voltage and a dragging starter have been known to keep an engine from starting due to the electonic ignition not having enough volts to fire the system. Good luck. If you need more help, post again. I don't have a manual at home for your vehicle, but will check again Monday at work. Let us know how you do...
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Thanks they did pull it off and had it checked at the local NAPA store. The vehicle will not crank at all. They did replace the stater relay still no luck. Thanks alot appreciate your thoughts. Butch
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I know this is an older post, but the directions given by jjoker are great, and work just as given. I would add that once you have the starter loose and wires unhooked, rotating it 180 degrees from the original position allows you to move it forward and past the wire harness and axle. The Trick of turning the front wheels to the right is PERFECT. Once the starter is beyond the front of the motor and axle, you can turn it sideways and it slips between the draglink and driveshaft. What a lifesaver when dealing with an older vehicle. That exhaust removal would be a nightmare! Thanks jjoker. Kudos to your sharing this info.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    OK, then I think the solenoid needs to be jumpered as I described in my post. This will tell you whether the motor is getting enough power from the battery. You don't mention if there is an alarm system or manual trans. There is a Neutral safety switch in an automatic, clutch disengage switch on the manual trans clutch that could prevent the solenoid from getting power. If you jump the solenoid and the starter works, then you know that for some reason the solenoid is not getting a signal to engage, which could be caused by the above items. The alarm system includes a starter disabler on some vehicles.
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    It doesn't have an alarm system. But I'll forward your thoughts up to him. There is a clicking noise by the stater when the key is turned. Thanks again.
  • rockn32rockn32 Member Posts: 1
    the starter feed wire might be loose.. this takes 2 people 2 check first someone needs to climb under the truck on the passenger side, and wiggle the feed wire while the other starts the engine it might take a try or 2 but it should start. make sure the car has its e brake on and you secure the tires for safety. if it starts all you have to do is tighten it with a cresent wrench..
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Thanks I'll have him try. Appreciate all you guys that have responded. I'll let you know.
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for your suggestion. They ended up putting a new starter on vehicle. Now it starts fine. Thanks Butch
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    He put a new stater on and now starts. Don't know if it was bad or not. Had benched tested ok, but I;m in WI and they are in Alaska Thanks again for all the help. Butch
  • coldestbulletcoldestbullet Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 tropper ls and the other day i got in it to go some where and it would not crank it would not do any thing all the light on the dash came on when i truned the key it did not even make a sound no clicking come to find out the cluth saftey switch broke so i just put a jumper in it no luck still nothing well after a few hr. of checking all i know to check still nothing so i crawel under to check the starter noting loose
    so i cross the starter to get it going drove it do the road and back shut it of and it started right back up drove it all the next day started up just fine then it done it again i push it off and no it doing it and wont start it like the battery deed but it check out ok so any one have a clue what it mite be i was think starter relay but i'm not sure is there in help out there
  • gopack2gopack2 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 94 Tropper. The previous owner had a starting issue that he brought to my attention. The vehicle is a 5-speed and the previous owner feels that the sensor for the clutch is the reason it does not start. The vehicle will start several times and then out of now where is will not turn over and the vehicle can remain like this for days. All the lights work when I turn the key but it will not start. The starter was also replaced five years ago. Does the vehicle have a sensor that would cause it not to start and if so can it be easily replaced?
  • jfrozenh2ojfrozenh2o Member Posts: 18
    i have a 94 trooper, with new plugs, new fuel filter, new timing belt, ive done extensive work on this to get it running great. my latest problem is that when i start it, it takes a while before it fires up, once fired up runs great. only when the vehicle sits overnight or for a couple hours does this problem occur. if im driving it and turn it off then back on, it fires right up. what could this be?- jes
  • ray82517ray82517 Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to Thank You jjoker your suggestion was right on the money. Your method was quick, easy and a money saver.. Thank you again! :)
  • tate65155tate65155 Member Posts: 1
    HI,
    I'm having a problem on cold mornings with a sluggish starter. The battery is nearly new and checks good. The alternator seems to be working fine and shows about 13 volts at idle and normal driving. The trooper has a feature where the alternator kicks out under a load or during acceleration. This makes it difficult/impossible for the parts places to check the alternator. Their meters require you to rev the engine whick causes the alternator to kick out and the meter says it has a problem, but I don't think it does as the guage shows it charging good during normal driving. I am wondering if the starter may be getting weak. It is a 97 trooper with the 3.2 and cranks fine after it has warmed up. Anyone have any suggestions.
  • johnblazedjohnblazed Member Posts: 6
    Hey hows it going, i haave the EXZACT same problem with mine... i got a 94 trooper, automatic transmission. and one day i goto start it up and nothing, no sound coming from the starter whatsoever just silence, not evena click. but the thing is i had full battery power, i even tried to boost it and still nothing. I was just wondering if you fixed the problem and if you did what is it cuz its driving me crazy. i figure its just the starter finally bit the dust and time for a new one. i just want to be positive before i buy a new one just in case I can fix it for free. anyone have any idea what it is????
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    Yes it did end up being the starter also. We checked cables, battery, even an igntion relay. The stater bench tested ok but in the end we had to put a new one on. I think under a load it could not turn the engine. Good luck it's a tough one to get off. Hope this helps.
  • johnblazedjohnblazed Member Posts: 6
    where is the starter located, passenger or driver side... do you know of any diagrams? also does anything have to be removed before taking a look at it. I live in Canada and its already sstarted snowing so there hasnt been a good day to take a look at it, prolly this weekend. any tips??
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Starter is on driver side, accessible from beneath....can be removed without loosening exhaust ...........if you do a forum search in Trooper you should find directions. Good luck.
  • johnblazedjohnblazed Member Posts: 6
    hey thanks buddy... replaced the starter today and that was exzactly it, starts up without any problems now, im glad i got that taken care of. thanks for the help
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Glad you were able to do it. Hope to see you around the forum....great place to get advice and share it too.
  • mdenman1mdenman1 Member Posts: 7
    Hi all,
    I have a 99 trooper and i'm having problems with the starter, initially I drove the trooper to a store locally and when I attempted to restart the vehicle it made no noise what so ever. The dash lights came on and blinked when the key was engaging the starter, the headlights appeared strong. I towed the trooper home and after some investigating took the battery out to have it bench tested at autozone. The result was a bad battery, I bought a new battery, but again no noise from the starter, but the dash lights stayed on durning the process. I then checked the relay under the hood, in the fuse box, as heard a clicking while engaging the starter, but still no noise from the starter. I then removed the starter, took it down to autozone and had it bench tested. It passed all tests so now i am at a loss, I thought maybe it couldn't work under load but i hear nothing from the starter to even get under a load. If any one has a suggestion please let me know
  • firemanbutchfiremanbutch Member Posts: 17
    We had the same exact problem. My son has a 99 trooper in alaska. We had the battery tested/OK. Took starter off test OK. Put an ignition relay on still no start. Finally we put new cables on and a stater. I think the bench test we did checked ok because it wasn;t under load. But maybe the cables were bad too. I was not there or I would of changed cables first but between the stater and the cables it started. His 99 Trooper had over 120,000 miles and like I said they are in Alaska. Hope this helps. Butch
  • bkressbkress Member Posts: 1
    I OWN TWO 94 TROOPERS,ONE IS A 5 SPEED ONE A AUTOMATIC.I JUST PUT TWO NEW STARTERS IN BOTH.THE 5 SPEED WAS UNDER WARRANTY,THE STARTER COST ME$120.00 2YR WARRANTY.THE AUTO COST ME $109.00 AT CHECKER FULL LIFETIME WARRANTY. BOTH STARTERS KIND OF A PAIN TO PUT IN,I HAD HELP.WE HAD TO TAKE OFF A CROSS MEMBER ON BOTH,AND A HEAT SHIELD ON THE AUTO,THERE ARE TWO CYLINDER SHIMS THAT FIT IN THE BOLT HOLES ON THE STARTER.THE STARTER IN THE AUTO GAVE US THE MOST PROBLEMS.WHEN WE PUT IT IN ,WE DIDN'T GET A GOOD FIT,AND THE SHIMS BENT,CAUSING US TO GET ANOTHER STARTER,THAT WENT IN FINE,YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT IF THE SHIMS STAY IN THE HOLES THAT GO INTO THE MOTOR PS WE HAD TO JACK UP THE CAR TO GET IT OUT GOOD LUCK SHOP AROUND IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO IT YOURSELF
  • boo56kerboo56ker Member Posts: 2
    I've been having a similar problem, with the cold AM start becoming more difficult as winter has progressed. Didn't think it was the starter because mine was replaced less than a year ago. The hard start got better during the day the more I started my vehicle . No check engine lights came on. However, took it to the dealer and they said it is the starter. I'm taking it back to the garage that put the original starter in as they will replace it for free. I'll let you know if the problem goes away with this fix.
  • boo56kerboo56ker Member Posts: 2
    Well, it isn't the starter. The mechanic tested the starter and it checked out fine. He replaced it, anyway, as it was under warranty. The mechanic suggested a cracked or loose fly wheel or loose torque converter bolts. At this point, I'm not sure what to think. The noise it makes upon starting is as if something is slipping, then catches. I had my serpentine belt replaced recently... :confuse:

    Sorry. I know this doesn't help you. Good luck with your problems.
  • tjm55tjm55 Member Posts: 3
    Any advise on changing the starter on a 2002 Isuzu Trooper V6? It looks like the exhaust may need to be removed. One mechanic I talked with said they cut the exhaust and re-weld it... that sounds like something that could just create more problems.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I have never heard of a reputable mechanic cutting a section out of any exhaust to change a starter, although I could imagine it being done. Usually they break the manifold bolts and you have to pay for them to repair them on top of the starter repairs.
    As to your particular model, I know because I have done it on my older model that you can get the starter out without removing any exhaust even though the service manual says to remove it.
    I got the tip from another owner that you drop the starter, remove the wires, then turn the steering all the way to the right and lock them in that position (turn off key). Remove the axle vent tube by carefully twisting it and pulling up until it comes out. Once that is done, unhook the lower wiring harness from the clips and rotate the starter to put the solenoid in a better position and pass it forward, moving the harness out of the way to do so. You may have to bend some of the thin bracket to allow the starter to clear, but it is pretty obvious once you are down there doing it. Once it is clear of the harness, turn the starter so that it is parallel to the steering drag link and it will drop down through and it is out! Reverse the process to reinstall.
    It does work because I have done it....twice. It is a little tricky getting it past the wiring, and I know that others have done it, including one guy who paid to have it done and found out that the dealer had done it as I describe but still charged the service manual rate.
    I cannot say for sure on your newer Trooper, but the engine and starter are virtually the same so I don't see why not.
    Good luck.
  • mdenman1mdenman1 Member Posts: 7
    i took my starter out twice, because it benchtested ok and i thought i might have a switch problem, then after reinstalling it I tested the connections and it was in fact the starter. It looks a lot harder than it is, basically I removed the cross member(4 bolts, then the heat shield(2 bolts), then removed the exhaust pipe from the header (3 bolts) disconnect the O2 sensors, remove 4 bolts at the rear of the exhaust, backed the exhaust a few inches and remove 2 bolts holding the starter in place. then disconnect 1 wire and unplug 1 wire and it falls out. It took me about 30 min to remove it and another 30 to reinstall. One word of caution, its easy to cross thread the header bolts on the reinstall, but everything else is relatively easy. Good luck
  • tjm55tjm55 Member Posts: 3
    Great advise.

    The cutting and welding of the exhaust seemed pretty extreme.

    Thanks
  • tjm55tjm55 Member Posts: 3
    I'm going to tackle it over the weekend.
    Thanks for your help.

    It always makes me wonder who engineers these things to make it so difficult to get to things.

    I have an old 1987 Trooper that I had to change the water pump on, I had to pull most of the front of the motor apart.
  • rsh415rsh415 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I just had my starter replaced on my 99 Isuzu Trooper. The mechanic said I also needed a linkage fuse replaced. The problem is now when the truck excellerates when it shifts into gear theres a knock or thud in the truck. Also when the truck slows down from say 20mph to 10mph the same thud, like the gears are engaing to hard. Does this linkage fuse that was replaced have something to do know with the truck banging into gear hard when it speeds up or slows down? Does this linkage fuse have to be calibrated somewhere on the truck? Any information would be helpful...Thanks.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi and welcome to the forum.
    I took a quick look at
    www.myisuzuparts.com
    to see if I could find an inline fusible link for your vehicle. That site is a great site and is free, so check it out.
    I did not see any fusible link in the starter area, but I don't have your year so I am not familiar with your harness.
    You should ask the mechanic exactly which link he replaced....you paid him so he should be able to tell you how he knew to replace it. Isuzu put all the links I am aware of in the underhood fuse box, so it is interesting to hear there is one inline.
    Let us know what you find out, and you may get some more replys.
    One guys opinion, Good luck.
  • fmtwofmtwo Member Posts: 1
    have the same truck and had hard shifting problems too. chec the transfer case fluid level and lube the rear driveshaft and u-joints and see what happens. as for the fuseible link your tech is saying needs to be replaced my information doesn't show that as a problem. :mad:
  • syoung83syoung83 Member Posts: 1
    Hello :) I have a 99 Isuzu Trooper that is giving me a hard time. I just bought the car... and it was doing GREAT. Now it will start fine at times, then it will start and shut off, and other times it will hesitate to start (act like it doesn't want to crank, hard time turning over) but starts. Once it starts no noises or anything coming from the car and no check engine lights come on. Any suggestions on how to fix??? Is it the starter, fuel pump. I also have a 93 trooper and it has never done this totally confused. Thanks for your help. :cry:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, welcome to the forum. I would look first at the battery in this case. Have it load tested to make sure it is OK. It may be that it has plates loose or shorting and the voltage is not constant. Poor voltage results in a lot of different problems and intermittent behavior. If you don't know the history on it, changing the fuel filter and checking fluids would be a real good idea. One guys opinion. Good luck, let us know what you find.
  • getwildegetwilde Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to try replacing the starter on my '96 trooper this weekend. I'm pleased to have found this hint by atfdmike. Can you tell me, does this work for the 4x4 model (which I have), or just 4x2? (Other sites mention that you needn't remove the exhaust for a 4x2, thus the question.)

    Thanks in advance
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    This sounds more like the transmission mode switch. They get gunked up and can be cleaned or replaced. Sometimes just cycling the shift lever back and forth can clean it up. Also, if the mechanic 'moved' the mode switch it may not line up correctly now. Occasionally my '00 Trooper will shift hard like that...almost slamming into gear when downshifting. One indicator that this might be the problem would be that the transmission indicator lights in the dash might not display the correct position or even jump around out of sequence with when you are moving the shifter.

    Sorry I look to be late answering this one...just now noticed it is about 6 weeks since posted.

    Bill
  • tjgreentjgreen Member Posts: 1
    hello,
    i have a 93 4x4 that is doing the exact same. except now it makes no noise or action when the key is turned. the battery is new and shows 13.7 volts at full charge. jumper cables made no diff...just dead silence when the key is turned . i checked the fuses and found no problems.....so did you get yours figured out. i have pretty much decided my starter is fried. but if any one has a cheaper solution i am all ears.
  • jjokerjjoker Member Posts: 8
    I had what sounds to be the same exact problem you are referring to tjgreen and in my case it was the starter. I would turn the key, get no sound but the click of my key turning in the ignition. I even took out the starter, had it tested by a mechanic and they said it was good but I still got the same problem. I was able to get my old starter working again by taking it out (see Starter Problems thread for directions, it comes out easily if you search mine and aftmike's tips), get a can of electronic contact cleaner and clean all the connections really good on the solenoid and starter, then put it back in and make sure your connections are good and clean. I feel its worth a shot first before you pay for a new starter that can run you a lot of $$. Hope this helps.
  • mstoutmstout Member Posts: 6
    Anyone have any idea why no current to injectors on '93 Trooper, 3.2 SOHC? I thought fuel pump was bad so tested it and it's fine. No current going to pump either so bypassed it with wire hot only when key is turned. Pumps gas to engine now but still won't start. Starts for a second with starting fluid so there's fire. Disconnected alarm, still no luck. Recently had "check trans." light flashing now and then but even when cold. Recently changed trans. filter and oil to eliminate doubt. Still came on sometimes but didn't affect starts. Possible that the computer is shot? What would cut current to fuel pump and fuel injectors at the same time? Fuses are all fine. Please help, I've been without transportation for over a week and live far away from a reputable mechanic here in Costa Rica. Tow bill would be over $120.
    Mike
  • mstoutmstout Member Posts: 6
    My 93 Trooper, 3.2 automatic, decided not to start suddenly in a parking lot last week. Starts for a second with starting fluid. Took out fuel pump and it works fine. Found that there is no current to fuel pump so jumped it and pumps gas to engine but still doesn't start. No gas smell either. Fuses are all fine. What would fail all of a sudden and cut current to pump and injectors? I've located a used ECM but would appreciate any suggestions before buying it.
    Mike
  • mstoutmstout Member Posts: 6
    Trooper problem solved!!! Paid a car electrician to make a house call and after proding and testing things for over three hours, including dismantling the ECM to check circuitboard, problem was that no current to computer to control fuel pump and injectors. After a while looking for the actual problem in hidden wire, it was decided to run a new one from internal fuse box thus curing the problem and getting me back on the road. Almost bought a used ECM. Wheew! House call ran me $150. Well worth it. Pays to be patient. Hope this info is beneficial to others with similar problems.
  • mstoutmstout Member Posts: 6
    I was wondering why in the mornings my Trooper's battery was dead. Eventually I saw that at any given time, the headlights mysteriously would go on by themselves and are unable to be turned off by the interior switch or even by pulling the lighting relay out of the fuse box in the engine compartment. I totally disconnected the alarm to eliminate doubt. As it is now, I have to disconnect the battery every time I park it. Anyone with this same problem or any suggestions? Thanks.
    Mike
  • nqlblqnqlblq Member Posts: 4
    So I have an 89 Trooper RS (the 2-door).

    I was driving it home and all of the sudden all of the dummy lights came on. Gas, Brake, Battery, O2. The car kept running with all of the lights on.

    When I got home, I turned off the car and tried to turn it back on and it would start up and die immediately. I can get it to stay on if I leave the key in the "start" position in the ignition but once I let it back to "On" it dies.

    After I replaced the entire fuel system (except the pump which is a year old), the Air Mass Overflow, and the fuel pump relay and the main engine relay - it still wouldn't start.

    That when I looked at the fuse box. I took out the main engine relay (big blue one on the outside of the fuse box) and it fired up. It started and ran really rough. All of the lights were off and I could drive it around - barely.

    When you put the MER back in, the lights come back on and when I turn it off, it won't restart.

    I'm basically out of ideas here. Anyone run into a similar problem? Or have any ideas about what else I should replace
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