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Porsche 944 and 924

944boy944boy Posts: 14
Knowing that there are 113070 n/a 944s and 25107 944 turbos along with just over 170000 924s out there lets get our own forum started and chat up our needs instead of payment options and feature list..lets get down to fuel rail mods, gauge-brake-exhuast upgrades, DME problems, swaybar adjustments! give me a show of hands!!
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Comments

  • 944boy944boy Posts: 14
    The 944 was the direct descendant of the 924 Carrera series and ultimately the earlier 924/931. Beginning in 1979 and the following two years Porsche began developing racing hybrids based on the 924 which later lead to the 944. In 1979/80 Porsche built 406 examples of the 924 Carrera GT. In the following two years, Zuffenhausen continued on to develop several competition versions of the 924 culminating in 1982 with the 924 Carrera GTS (of which 5 were built up as Club Sport models and sold to private owners,) and the limited competition 924 Carrera GTR. When looking at the Carrera GTS Club Sport, one can immediately see the immanent arrival of the 944.
  • 944boy944boy Posts: 14
    In order to improve build quality, over the 924 production done at Audi's facility in Neckarsulm, production/assembly of the 944 was done in Zuffenhausen. The power plant was literally derived from half of the 928's V8. At 2479 cc (2.5 liters) the engine was large by four cylinder standards of the day. The engine was a modern design with high compression and a broad power band. The initial power plant was rated at 163 hp (ROW) and 150 hp for the U.S.

    The 944 was originally announced to the world at the September, 1981 Frankfurt auto show with the U.S. introduction one year later. Upon its introduction the interior of the 944 remained much the same as the 924 while the rear suspension, although improved, retained the VW-derived architecture. In addition to a change in the front suspension control arms, the rear suspension would change with the major revision of the 944 that occurred mid year in 1985. Often times, owners will refer to there 944 as an 85.5, designating the completely redesigned interior and other improvements to the base 944 including; new heater, air conditioning, minor revisions to the bodywork including a flush mounted windscreen, new cats aluminum front A-arms and rear trailing arms suspension components. Although changes where made to the engine, Porsche did not announce any changes to the factory performance specifications. Practical comparison of this watershed model change and it's predecessors indicates performance gains did result however.

    At the end of 1985, Porsche announced the 944 Turbo (factory model designation 951) which arrived in the U.S. as a 1986 model. Performance of the 951 was a reminder of the 944's legacy, even in it's toned down production form. Aside from the turbo charged power plant generating 217 hp with 243 ft/lbs of torque, the 951 had other major enhancements over it's normally aspirated brother. Specifically the 951 included aerodynamic polyurethane front bumper/spoiler with new air intakes serving the turbo's intercooler mounted between the headlights under the front panel. Under body panels where added to cleanup air flow beneath the car. This extended to the distinctive air diffuser mounted under the rear of the car to cleanup exiting airflow past the rear end. As well, the 951 received Brembo 4 piston calipers to bring the car to a stop as well as special forged alloy wheels. The suspension received stiffer components to round out the comprehensive performance upgrades. The 951 also has the distinction of being the first sports car to offer both driver-side and passenger-side airbags. Porsche also produced 198 versions of the 944 Turbo as Cup racing cars.

    The 944S arrived as a 1987 model year addition with a redesigned 16 valve dual overhead cam engine producing 190 hp. In addition to the increased number of valves and cams, the 944S came with an improved Digital Motor Electronics (DME) system with knock-sensing regulation capabilities. Also included on the base 944, the 944S benefited from the new timing belt tensioner which was implemented for the 1987 model year. As well, the 944S received the Bembo brake calipers with optional ABS. The initial 944S shared the base models bodywork until 1990.
  • 944boy944boy Posts: 14
    Porsche revisited the 951 and in 1988 introduced the 944 Turbo S with total model year production of 718. This performance version of the already impressive 944 Turbo received many significant improvements including: bigger Brembo brakes, ABS, firmer springs and torsion bars, stiffer Koni low-pressure gas adjustable shock absorbers, a thicker front sway bar, and firmer suspension bushings. The following year, Porsche dropped the "S" designation and the standard 944 Turbo was infact the "S" form factor, building 1385 for 1989. This was to be the last year the U.S. market would have access to the 944 Turbo.

    In 1990 Porsche releases the 944 Series 2, designated 944 S2. The S2 was an extensive revision of the 944S which now included the aerodynamic bodywork of the 951. The previous three engines available were replaced by the 3.0 liter's 16 valve engine and a big turbo 2.5 liter 944 Turbo (sold in Europe). As well, a soft-top version of the 944 was introduced, the 944 S2 Cabriolet. The new cabriolet was produced jointly by Porsche and the German division of the American Sunroof Corporation.

    Unfortunately for the U.S. market, Porsche offered a Turbo Cabriolet version to the rest of the world through 1991 with the U.S. having the standard S2 Cabriolet to satisfy our open air appetites. Only 625 (non-U.S.-spec) 944 Turbo Cabriolets where built. Unless you know someone abroad who owns one and have driven it, we are left to only dream what a drop head coupe in Turbo form factor would have felt like.
  • Can you tell if the mileage has been altered just by looking at it?
  • 944boy944boy Posts: 14
    Unfortunately Shawn this day and age the Speedo can be swapped out easily and often is instead of repairing the original and there is no ID numbers to verify that it’s a replacement Speedo. I know this because for 25.00 bucks I put a new Speedo in 944 girl’s 1983 porches and now her odometer works and her car has 23.000 miles now instead of 97.000
    Sorry
    944 boy
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    I recently purchased a 1984 Porsche 944 about 4-5 months ago. It's been quite a bit of work, but I'm really happy with my purchase. Long story short, I was drunk, ended up on eBay, and bought it.

    I towed it home with my 2002 Crown Victoria, and managed to get it running. I've since completely replaced the ENTIRE interior. The previous owner spray painted the entire interior with flat-black (he didn't like the original brown). I ended up replacing about 90% of the interior with all new / used interior items off eBay, the rest I simply repainted with real vinyl paint.

    You can check out my progress here if you want...

    1984 Porsche 944
  • 944boy944boy Posts: 14
    looks like your getting the work done!!! these are great little cars. a full interior swap?!! UGGGG!,, have you made this your daily driver yet...they have a way of slowly becoming your favorite car to drive
    good luck Todd it looks really good
    and may
    the Porsche be with you
    944boy
  • krzydadkrzydad Posts: 1
    Hey yall!! I just bought an 86 944..and it's a great car (as you know) I ran across a problem..I can't get the sunroof to work by button...in fact, it looks like I'm missing some hardware..any help out there with a photo of what the hardware looks like installed..? Thanks
  • Hi guys, I bought my 3rd Porsche yest my first 944 and It's a bit needy for me! All day I have been going over the car I'm far from a mechanic but know a bit! First thing replace the 4 tires, find out I have a bent rim from the Inside! Not good news mean probably I have a bent frame ok I can handle this! Then This am I wake up to a puddle of oil! EEEkk It's the oil gasket not bad really bad considering I have to lift the engine out to fix this! thirdly The rear end knocks bad after I learned I have new struts back there I tighten them still has a bad knocking sound! I haven't figured out this problem yet! then the brake pedal vibrates new brake lines and pads probably need rotors! the Interior is nice the car needs to be painted dull paint and a bad replaced fender on the front I bought the car for 1,400 it needs a tune up and has a mere 207,000 miles on thats not a big deal for this Porsche I hope! any suggestions? should i have bought one without all these problems? or will I be stronger but broke after this one? Thanks a lady Porsche lover in Milwaukee :)
  • YES! Let's have a 944 club. I love my '85.5 and would very much like to be able to contact other owners. Here's a question for anyone: I get exhaust fumes in the cabin when side windows or roof are open. Yet I have no leaks in exhaust system or boot. If windows are closed, no exhaust fumes. I'd be interested if others have this experience, and whether there is a cure. My solution is to keep the windows up and rely on the blower and a/c for ventilation. I'd also like to know whether I should switch to synthetic (full or semi) on my oil change, and also whether using higher grade gasoline, or fuel additives like Lucas, is a good idea. My 944 is a delight to drive and own, its only fault is a leak in the steering rack hydraulic, which is not excessive so, for now, I'm just adding Lucas when needed. I live in Toronto, Canada, so I put my baby in the hayloft when it snows.
    Douglas
  • It seems difficult to find a repair manual for a 944s, 1987
    I purchased a Haynes, "All porsche repair 83-89, only to find out it didn't include the 944S....

    Right now I'm trying to remove the Cam shafts but not sure how to remove the front cam sproket. It doesn't look like a wheel puller will fit, Does anyone know how to get this sproket off, or where I can buy a good repair manual...Thanks
  • I'd like to try repairing my leaking steering rack, and I'm wondering how big a job that might be? The '85.5 944 sat unused is a garage for 5 years so I assume the seals on the steering dried up, hence the leaks. The fluid comes out of the rubber accordion cover on both sides. The car has only 130,000 miles on the clock and is in beautiful condition otherwise. A friend who is an aero engine mechanic and I replaced the water pump sucessfully, though it was a 2-day job. So I'm thinking we might tackle the steering rack leak. Questions: How big a job is it? Assuming I should get new parts, not used from a wrecker, what parts of the rack probably need to be replaced, and roughly what do they cost new? Should I use a part supplier off the net?
    Any and all comments appreciated. I'm the same guy who gets exhaust fumes in the cabin when the windows are down.
    thanks
    doug
  • A buddy of mine was moving north and had this 944 parked on his lot and needed to get rid of it, the car had been sitting around for about 4 years, and having once been a 914 Porsche owner, decided to try my luck with this one. The car engine runs great when Fuel is manually sprayed in through the throttle housing into the intake manifold. Good sign that the engine was not locked up! Fuel pump sends fuel through the system and reaches up to the Fuel collector pipe, but cannot get the engine to start up when turning the key as it should.
    This car was stopped running 4 years ago and then parked. Car needs paint job and will need brake servicing. Probably need to change some of the electrical fuses, but have no idea which to change since like mentioned above, car runs great, engine sounds good, no smoking, etc, when started by turning key and spraying fuel into the intake manifold. But just can't get it to turn over with key switch. Have already replaced throttle valve switch, spark plugs, oil filter, air filter, hoses, fuel filter, cleaned out fuel tank, etc. Interior is in great shape, black leather, console, everything works in it except fuel level gauge, I put in 5 gallons of fuel so I know it has fuel!
    Fuel injection system seems to be an L-Jetronic type, apparently a problem in this car. Anybody have any comments on this.
    My previous 914, once had a similar problem and I almost tore the whole car apart to later find out that just by replacing a fuse the injection problem was solved. I would hate to have this happen to me again.
  • It sounds to me like it's the DME relay. That is the relay which ALLOWS the fuel pump to turn on when the ignition is turned on. It's controlled by several things including the reference sensors and the oil pressure sending unit.

    A good way to test to make sure everything is ok, is to manually wire a positive lead to the fuel pump directly from the battery. You can do this just to test it out and see how the motor runs before you dump a TON of money into it.
  • Thanks for the comments, When I turn the key switch to the ON position, I can hear the fuel pump running & there is fuel at the injector fuel rail, with some pressure I could say, how much, sufficient, I don't know, that seems to also be a suggestion from another friend, that maybe the pressure is not sufficient to open the injectors. I will certainly keep in mind your suggestion and test the electrical system to the fuel pump and also to the injectors as well and the DME relay. I hope to be able to make these tests Saturday, so if you think of anythin else thats worth a try, throw it this way.

    Thanks again,

    TonyCEE
  • tccctccc Posts: 13
    At 102,000 an entire new clutch pkg. was replaced by an authorized Porsche Dealer. It now has 107,000. When the clutch pedal is released a faint click is heard about 3/4 way through. When the pedal is released slowly the noise is not heard. Any imput? Thanks.
  • My 1988 automatic 944, still doesn't want to crank up on its own, we have checked fuses, all seem to be ok, fuse # G14, start relay also OK, old fuel pump deficient,changed fuel pump, good fuel pressure now, ended up loosing ball bearing at the end of the injector rail, waited 2 weeks for one to be mailed in. Still cranked up with fuel sprayed in thru manifold, but can't get it to start from the switch, this was last week.
    This morning I fooled a bit with it and after no gain, I decided to at least start it up by the usual way with the fuel spray and this time nothing !! A loss of yardage !!This afternoon I read on another forum that someone had similar problems and was adviced to check the air flow meter flap, that could be stuck and thus sends the wrong signal to the DME and just stops. Did that, thought I was gonna geter done, but to no avail, the flap was not stuck, happened to be working fine, wether or not it was set correctly I don't know. But I never fooled with it before so it should be OK as it is. Its gotta be something else that is just not clicking. Need advice !!!

    Tonycee
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    I have found what appears to be an '83 944.
    It has a serial D in the spot designated for year of manufacture.
    The owner is the middle of rebuilding the suspension and can no longer afford keeping it up.
    Before I make an offer on it I would really like to know how hard it is to find parts for this car.
    I know of a good mechanic, but I would like to hear from actual owners on their experiences with finding and replacing parts - OEM or aftermarket.
  • Hi! Parts are NOT hard to find on the Porsche 944. There are several places that sell parts for the 944, a few worth mentioning are: www.944online.com www.pelicanparts.com

    And of course, the Porsche dealership. Your best friend will be eBay and salvage yards. Mechanical Porsche parts are expensive. There are often alternatives though. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions...

    [email protected]
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    Thank you very much for the info. :D
  • I recently purchased a 1984 Porsche 944 from the dealership where I work for $2000. This 944 came in on a trade, so I took a chance (always wanted one) and jumped on this one owner winter stored pristine looking 944. I fell in love once we checked the car on the hoist and found a near perfect survivor car that is completely original including paint. Driving the car home is where I ran into the first of a few problems I didn't catch back at the dealership. The most devastating experience of the drive was going into my first ramp (slow pace), I down-shifted to third, and as I began to release the clutch the rear end seemed to hop and vibrate.. I immediately clutched again and coasted through the turn. I have now found out that I can't downshift to any gear, when I release the clutch in a lower gear the rear end hops and vibrates pretty badly. Any one have any guesses before it goes on the hoist?
  • The drivers side floor in the rear of my 86 944 turbo is soaking wet even after days without rain. I know there is no roof leak. any ideas where this is coming from? and how to fix it
  • With the exception of a couple of rare occasions, it's almost always due to a leaky sunroof (on the 944).

    In particular on the 944 specifically, the power sunroof tends to stop working and the rear retractable arms tend to become loose. The 944's sunroof requires an extremely tight seal not to leak.

    The best thing to do is to have a friend or your girlfriend / wife get out the garden hose and literally douse the top of your car while you sit inside. See if you see any water dripping. You'll be surprised at where it comes from.

    Sunroof maintenance requires that you use a rubber conditioner on the seals to keep them plush and not worn out. Also, there are 4 rubber / plastic lines that attach to the drain holes on all four corners of your sunroof opening. These need to be CLEAR of any blockage as your sunroof will almost certainly leak. The best thing to do in this situation is to use your air compressor (you will need one, otherwise buy a can of compressed air) and use the rubber nossle attachment. Place it in the hole making a perfect seal and just have at it. You might find that there was all kinds of garbage in there.

    When the sunroof leaks, it's USUALLY in the rear, and it typically pools in the footwell of the 2+2 seats in the back.

    If you are 100% positive this is not the case, then the only other place that the 924s and 944s will leak from, are from the quarter glass gaskets and the hatch glass. The gaskets around the quarter glass can go bad. This causes water to fill up in the gasket channels and kind of drip down. On the hatch glass, if you install new hatch shocks, this will almost certainly cause the hatch glass to separate from the hatch frame (yeah, it sucks). Water can then leak in from there.

    If you have water leaking on the passenger floor board, then it's probably a rusty battery tray.

    Hope that helps.

    Oh yeah, also make sure the drain holes in the rear fenders are open. Water will often drain down in there and you'll want to make sure they are open. Also make sure that the two rear drain holes are properly situated so the end of the hoses actually exit the fender.

    You'll want to clean this up bad, and if it continues to leak, you MUST cover the car until you can take care of it.

    Porsche 944s have a rather unique kind of insulation and padding in the carpet (old school 80s sound deadening). A combination of foam rubber, with jute and cardboard / paper backing will retain water and moisture practically forever. Mold will develop within a matter of weeks, and it can and will get to the point where you'll need to replace the entire interior. I just went through this entire process on my 84 Porsche 944, and it was NOT cheap.

    Really, it's kind of a poor design. I've had my 1987 Fiero SE / V6 outside it's entire life, and it has the original sunroof gasket, and the original sunroof, and it's never leaked a day in it's life. It has over 160k miles on it and I used to take the sunroof off almost every time I got in it!
  • i just bought my first porsche 944 little things need to be fixed , i was told that this car tops out at 130mph but if i remove the limiter it will top out at 160 is this true if so where is this limiter
  • Well, lets look at things from a couple of different perspectives. The first question is, what kind of 944 do you have? If it's a NON-Turbo Porsche 944, then you're not going to be able to achieve 160 miles an hour. The TURBO Porsche 944 can achieve a speed of about ~140-145 miles an hour depending on the model, maybe 150 if it's in perfect shape with some modifications. The NON-Turbo 944 is a pretty nice car, and it was certainly impressive for it's time, but by today's standards it's not overly powerful. For it to even get to 130 miles an hour (which is possible) would be rather taxing on the engine. 130 miles an hour is still pretty fast, and a car needs to be in PEAK condition to be able to achieve speeds like that, safely. Any Porsche 944, by this point with at least average mileage on it, will have a completely worn out suspension, busted shocks, and a stretched timing chain. The engine needs to be in perfect tune, otherwise expect the belt to shread itself the minute you hit 100. If your suspension is shot, I recommend highly that you fix it, otherwise the car will become floaty at triple digit speeds, and you'll probably fly off the road, out of control (to your death).

    There is no "limiter" or "Governor" on a Porsche 944 as they didn't exist back then. Governors didn't start being installed in vehicles until around the early to mid 90s. (really when OBD2 came into effect in 1996).

    Any limiting factors of the 944's top speed would be gearing and / or horsepower.

    I would suspect that the motor would run out of horsepower before it runs out of gearing. Being that it only puts out 160? horsepower, you'll probably find yourself stuck at 125-130 miles an hour with an extra 1500rpm left on the tach. At this point the wind resistance exceeds the pulling power of the vehicle, so the motor stops accelerating further.
  • kool thanks for the imput since this is my first porsche there are alot of things i dont know about them but iam learning
  • ok first does the engine turn over(spin) if so then i would look at the ignition coil. if it dosent turn over(spin)then i would check the starter it self
  • On my 1977 Porsche, sometimes the voltmeter needle goes all the way to the right and the all the light becomes very bright. I took the car to an automotive store to have the alternator tested and I was told that the alternator is charging ok. What could be the problem?
  • It sounds to me like the Voltage regulator has failed or is failing. This CAN cause the alternator to overcharge. This can be a bad thing as it can damage your battery. It shouldn't be too expensive. It's external from the alternator (I believe) in the older Porsches.
  • thomasstthomasst Posts: 1
    My husband just put a deposit on a 2007 Porsche Carrera S with 4305 miles.... Can anyone out there let me know whether $97,495 seems to be a good deal or not?
  • For a 911 as new as that yes, that is a reasonable price. You could maybe get it about a thousand less because of the miles, but your doin good. Enjoy the car. Any problems feel free to email me with questions!
  • I have recently begun the lovely and exciting idea (what the hell was I thinking) of restoring my 1985 944. Everything has gone pretty well until I have just recently hit a spot that I am stuck. I am removing all of my carpeting and replacing with new. now all of it is out except the very front where the driver and passenger legs go this seems to be a major pain in the *%#. I would greatly appreciate anybody who could help and if possible step by step instructions for this removal and install.
    Thanks,
    pitboss29
  • Here you go, check this website. It is for proffesional auto technicians and they can definitly help you out quickly. http://www.iatn.net/
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Hi Pitboss! You'll need to remove the dash. I know, it sounds like a huge pain in the [non-permissible content removed], but there's almost nothing to the Porsche 944, even the 85.5+ models. There are a couple of 10mm bolts holding it down under the dash, and then near the tops under the dash. I think it's five 10mm bolts all together. I don't believe your 85.5 (does it have the new interior?) uses a speedometer cable, but if it does, you just need to remove that. Everything else should be able to lift up. You can then access the carpeting. It's easier to re-install the carpet this way too.
  • cejr3cejr3 Posts: 2
    I have a 1986 Porsche 944 non turbo that the cruise control doesn't work on, any suggestions on where to start?

    Thanks in advance,

    CJ
  • todd82tatodd82ta Posts: 32
    Yeah, there is a cruise module located under the hood, just in front of the battery on the passenger side. This sometimes goes bad. The only thing you can do really is just replace it. The 944 doesn't use any computer control for the crusie control, it's just a motor style module that connects in the engine bay.
  • cejr3cejr3 Posts: 2
    Thanks so much Todd! I am going to switch it out.

    CJ
  • 1985 944 . The battery is discharging. finally heard the blower motor running (very faint) when I was replacing the battery once again. The blower screen/cover in place I could hear the faint sound of the motor running. Is it a RELAY, or the switch on the dash?
    not knowing were to look,can I replace the relay first ? Need Help !!
    Tom :confuse:
  • Hi IronHorse,

    Couple of things to consider. As with all Porsches, they are often over-engineered. Believe it or not, when you turn the ignition key in an early 944 to the on position. Even if the car isn't running, the VENT fan will run at 1/2 it's lowest speed. This is part of the mandated "flow-through" fresh air venting. The Porsche 944 actually has TWO cabin fan. There is the primary fan which is mounted front and center in the cowl area, this is called the "VENT FAN". The secondary fan is built into the A/C system under the passenger side dash. Although it's really odd... there are two fan controls (as you'll see). There is the huge A/C fan (which only recirculates air through the cabin) and the vent fan which brings in fresh air, and that is controlled by the knob a little bit lower down (to the left of the vent sliders).

    So, as I mentioned, the vent fan will ALWAYS run when the key is in the ignition and anywhere other than OFF. If it's running with the key out of the ignition, then you have a problem.

    HOWEVER... don't be confused (more about this overengineering stuff). When you've driven your Porsche 944... one of the radiator fans will remain ON (in a slow speed) when you shut the car off. The reason for this was to help lower the temperature of the radiator in case you start the car up again within a short period of time. The technical reason why this happens is because the fan switch is nothing more than a temperature sensor that is mounted on the drivers side rear of the radiator. The fan has a constant hot on one end, and a ground that persists through the sensor. When the sensor is hot (even when the car is off, and the key is out of the ignition) it will run. This is normal (although a bit annoying).

    As long as you can make sure that this is what you've been worried about, then you shoudl be OK!
  • Thanks for the reply,,BUT...the battery is discharging due to a closed contact,leaving the battery to died after a week or so. There is NO key or start here. the car is stored
    in my garage & not a daily driver,so after a week or two the battery is dead or at least needs a jump. the faint noise is from the the engine's bay, cowl near the firewall/windshield location. I believe the faint noise is the blower unit not turning off. If I disconnect the battery ,it goes off. place the cable back on the noise is there once again. No startup or ign. is needed to cause this problem. So I have to believe it's a relay or switch causing this "closed" circuit ? Where do I start ,the relay ; fresh air blower relay G1 sells for about 10 dollars. Is this it ? & where is it located on the dash? If it's not the relay ,can it be the switch on the DASH as you mentioned?
    I can get both parts but would like to eliminate the battery discharge now. Perhaps its the Ign switch ,some one said,but with the key out can there be this problem?
  • Hi IronHorse, ok, that noise you hear is definitely the vent fan. I DO believe there is a relay that controls this. However, since you have a 1985, I'm not totally sure. In 85, they changed the model half way through the year, and the two are completely different electrically, and somewhat mechanically as well (as well as a completely new interior). The easiest way to tell is... if you have the interior of a 924, then you have an early 85, if you have the same interior that the late 80s 944s have, then you have the 85.5. I don't know if you already know this, but for the sake of explanation, I figured I'd throw that in. On the old models, the fan relay I BELIEVE is located on the second row (further back). You'll want to check that. On the newer ones, I have no clue, but I am pretty sure there should still be a relay for it.

    Also... I don't think this is it... but I would check. There is a motor (believe it or not) for the cruis control. In the older 944s (83-85), this motor is located on the rivers side, near the cowl, right inside the engine bay in front of the engine. When these go bad... they just run forever. A quick fix is to simply disconnect it's wiring harness. Not sure if this could be your problem, but I would just check it out to be sure. My 84 944 had a battery discharge problem, and that ended up being the culprit.

    Hope that helps.

    I would also suggest you check out www.RennList.com it's a really great web site and there are like several thousand people on that list with 944s.
  • Thanks for the suggestions,
    The blower FAN ,sounds to be the problem,since I removed the battery cable the fan turns off,attach the batter leads and on it goes. there is NO key or IGN on .
    So is it a RELAY? if so where is it located ? or the next step.....
    Tom
  • To lady in Milwaukee. If I had to do it again, I would spend more for a cleaner car, the devil is in the details. I have an early 83, I think, under the hood it says March 1982. I have a booklet, the types dimensions and tolerances put out for Porsche on 944's. It says for Model 82,83 . What is the difference and is my March 1982 referred to as an early 83? Jon
  • Yeah, I completely agree. I just sold my 1984 Porsche 944, and took a huge loss. I had 8 cars, and my wife is pregnant so I thought I'd downsize to 6. Porsche had to go. I spent $1,200 buying the car, put about $4,000 into the car, and sold it for $2,000. It's just one of those things...

    I kept some of the really rare pieces (like the Euro front bumper, etc). I do plan to get another one, but when I do I'll probably spend an extra 2 grand up front to save me from having to dump twice that into t later.

    I've learned that, at least on a 944... for every $1,000 you save, you end up spending $2,000 to bring it to the condition you would otherwise have if you spent the $1000 in the beginning. :)
  • What is the difference between the 82 and 83. What do I call my March 82 944, is that an early 83 or something else? I have the 3 blade fans. My vin is WPOAAO949DN450293 my original registration shows YR. Model 82. My 944 is slow off the line, kind of feels fuel starved, it bucks a bit. I have new fuel injectors. After that first 3 seconds or so it performs flawlessly. The car came in around Port Hueneme California. What site can I go to, to see the paint choices in 1982? They are slightly different from 83 I believe. I can see the names but not the paint chips.
  • Skidder, I assume you're in the United States, right? If yours is indeed a 1982 model, then it's pretty rare. VERY few of the 1982 models actually made it to the United States (something to the tune of about 100 or so). It doesn't particularly make it any more valuable... but it does make it significantly more rare since the model wasn't introduced in the United States until 1983. It was introduced in Europe in 1982.

    The problem you're having is without a doubt, a problem with your AFM (Air Fuel Meter). That is that grey looking thing with the grey flap in it. It's inline of your intake and it bolts onto the back of your air box. Those get old, and the gradiated sensor on the door gets worn out. I was able to buy a rebuilt one by Python on eBay for $75 bucks. They are pretty expensive. A new one is about $250 bucks. But I guarantee to you that your car will run like brand new.

    Another thing to take a look at would be your "reference" sensors. They are located on top of the transmission bell-housing. They normally sell for something like $200 each, BUT... BMW used these same sensors in the 7 series model back in the early 80s. You can buy these for $75, and they are identical in every way... the only difference is that the length of the wires are a little bit longer, but that's not a problem.

    I would check the AFM first though.

    You could also need a new TPS (throttle position sensor). That's much cheaper, and easier to replace... but I still think it's your AFM.

    I would go to RennList.com
  • Dear Todd82ta: Thank you so much for that information, You should know I am so appreciative of this info.. I don't know how to thank you, unless on the slight chance you are a hunter, I have a large tract of land in Southern New Hampshire you could hunt on. I am Skidder440 with a 1982 model 944. Celebrating my 10th anniversary with my first and only, thanks for helping me to make it even better, it could use all the help. Jon
  • Hey man, no problem, I'm really glad I could help. NH is an awesome state. I've never hunted anything, but my grandfather owns land in the mountains and a cabin in West Virginia. I proposed to my wife up there. I live in Fort Lauderdale though.

    If you get bored, check out my site... lots of pictures of my 944 if you're curious about some of the work I've gone through fixing it up.

    http://www.PontiacPerformance.Net

    unfortunately, I don't have my 944 anymore, but you can see it if you click on "Past Cars" and scroll down to the bottom.
  • I live in galveston behind seawall and never had water this high since 1900 storm. in fact, never had water in garage since house built in 1901 whcih it has seen at least 7 large storms.

    i left the porsche in garage and the water got about 15" high, several inches under the fuses & relays-which they do not appear to be blown except 1 fuse which was replaced. the interior dried out nicely. The oil & filetr was changed. The battery was drained and it recharged fine. I have lights. The engine will not turn over and the only sound is the vent fan and what may be the gasoline pump. I do not see relay for starter listed in owner's manual? since the battery was drained, could the water over the starter fried the starter? or any other possibilities. Please Help! I have restored most of this car at cost of about 18k over last 15 years and really feel bad that we did not have the one more driver to get it to Houston before storm.

    Thanks
    Ted Labuzan
  • Hi Ted, I hope I can be of some help. Feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] if you have any specific questions.

    Basically... the starter COULD very well have been damaged by the water. But you would more than likely at least hear something. There are some easy things you can check, but with respect to the starter itself, there are TWO things you can do. 1) You'll want to check that in fact the IGNITION wire is giving power to the starter. Of course, the heavy gauge battery cable connects to it directly, but secondly, when you start the car, you feed power to the solenoid / starter mechanism which engages the starter. I believe this is your problem. I don't think the starter is getting power from the ignition.

    2) You can test the starter on a bench by jumping it with a car charger.

    Now, with respect to the ignition, there are TWO things that I can think of initially that would cause this. Does your car have the "factory alarm system"? If you see a lock that's on your drivers side, just behind the drivers side door (and not to be confused with the one in the door), then you have the factory alarm. These fail when they get wet, and I BELIEVE the control box is mounted somewhere on the passenger side floor (maybe under the seat?). Now, this alarm is an immobilizer that actually de-activates the ignition, preventing you from being able to start the car.

    The OTHER thing that might cause this, is the DME relay. You should always keep a spare with you, because these can tend to leave you stranded. If the DME relay isn't connected, it would prevent you from being able to start the car. In your car, it's in the second row of the fuse block (where the relays all are) and it's the long one in the back. Refer to the chart in your manual to see specifically where it is.

    Good luck!

    Todd
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