Give WWW.MaxRPM.com a call. If there's any difference then they took me for a $100.00 upgrade of my 80 HP chip to the 100. It sure has a lot of go compared to the stock. If it is causing my tranny problems then it will not be put back in though. I'd rather drive it then have it on the hook. I found out about MaxRPM from my local Ford dealer.
Spent the week end (1021-10/22) in Tulare CA. I attended the 2nd annual diesel powered run off. This was an excellent show. Several venders were there showing their stuff and putting on workshops. Both days ended with PULLS. Like tractor pulls.......but these were truck pulls. It was fun to watch the F250/F350s take those Dodge boys to the wall. A F350 pulled the furthest on both days. One of the several items I saw there was a product called Brake Guard. It increases the efficiency of any hydraulic braking system.-- car--- mini pick up----- pickup... or superduty type. Has any one out there heard of this product. Have all the power I need, chipped (increase hp by 70 and increase torque by 163), 4" exhaust, tri pillar gages. Now I'm looking at stopping. Will put on exhaust brake as well. Brake guard looks good,,,,,,,any comments out there.
I've heard that the computer chips can add HP, and I don't dispute this at all. I find it hard to believe that the chip alone will give 80 or 100hp increase.. I'm sure the truck is more powerful with the chip it, and also most chips are also adjusting the tranny shift points which also makes for much firmer/better shifting. So the seat of the pants feel with and without the chip would be noticable..
Noting that chips do adjust tranny shifting could be another cause of problems your having? There are so many folks out there using the chips that I also find it hard to believe that they are causing tranny problems, but I bet if you were still under warranty the warranty service would feel differently.
Now if you did ALOT of modifications, I think 80 to 100 hp increase on a gasser might be possible. Such as: chip + headers + exhaust + electric fan + power pullys + air intake mods.. etc..
Nice truck. I wish I had the money to do that. Well actually I do have the money to do it, the problem is I would have to buy another truck to do the camper pulling duties.
By the way yours is the first truck I've seen with, what appears to be, the same cab steps that I got from the Ford dealer. I can't believe hardly anyone else gets them.
Now the big question, what did all this cost you? Bottom figure and time.
hi all. haven't posted in quite awhile, though i've been reading along. quick thought on the leaking cap liners: when i build a building (like my barn i'm almost done with) i put down sill sealer between the masonary wall and the treated wood toe-plate which is the bottom of your wood wall. this sill sealer is like a foam sponge, maybe 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch thick. cost is about $6 for a 50 foot roll, and it sure does keep the water out.
next question: i'm still looking for a cap for my bed, and the local ford dealer has "Rayder" (spelling?) brand. anyone know anything good or bad about this brand? thanks for the input.
I wonder about the tranny shift changes made by the chip also. I got the bad news today that I have to have a new transmission. I e-mailed the company to find out if their chip would have caused the problem but I don't expect the hear them say "YES". I did ask a few questions, like, towing a Bobcat + attachments(5 tons), a 3:73 rearend, and the chip aren't compatible???? I'm looking for others out there with similar problems. Does anyone out there have similar upgrades as I have been told I have?
Long time no see you on here.....I have seen a few raider caps....but it's hard to compare since I have the ARE cap on mine, haven't seen much that can compare to the Z series....plus mine doesn't leak. Tomorrow I'm heading out for a week of deer hunting, wisconsin wants their anterless herd trimmed (got 4 free permits). Then Nov. 1st,leaving for Colorado for a guided Elk hunt, driving the SD out, just turned it over to 11,000 miles way too many miles 7 months, but what can i say it's fun to drive. Still haven't figured the clunk out yet...Take care everybody.....see ya all on or about the 13th of Nov.
fordtuf, thanks. i also thought i was the only one who had those factory steps! and yes, it's all about the decisions.. which meant giving up, er, saving alot. so, yes, it was and will be a lot of time and money. even then, i still had to opt for more affordable items so i won't go broke of course dunno the exact total amount because it's not yet done..
bowhunti, i too had a chip (superchip) that i subsequently removed because it seemed to exacerbate the problem. took it to the dealer and although they couldn't find a problem nor was able to find the tsb, they did remove the tranny, overhaul valve body and accumalator body (??), changed the fluid, filter and seal--and i think all that actually helped. at least i didn't experience the jerkiness and rpm flairs the short while i took out for a spin at the mod shop.
good to hear from you. if you want to use your bow and want a guaranteed opportunity on antlerless deer (and a decent chance at a buck) come to the u.p. if you need more info, let me know here and i will give you my email address.
as for caps, i found another place in town which also sells the raider brand. one option i am considering are the side windows that flip up to allow better access to the rest of the bed. again, anyone out there have experience with raider bed caps, and regardless of the brand, what comments are there about the option of flip-up side windows. thank you for your time.
I would definitely go with the filp-ups like my brother has. I had a Lakeland cap, which is sold here in WI., with the standard slide-bys, but I didn't get the flip-up windows, which I regretted after seeing/using my brothers Lakeland with the flip-ups. Flip-ups really allow easy access to the items in the front of the bed and at my age, crawling around the back of a pick-up bed isn't one of the exercise programs that I signed up for. If I ever get another cap it will have the flip-ups.
We haven't had any leaking problems either, my truck had a penda liner and I didn't let them cut off the front lip of the liner either. My brother dosen't have any liner in his Ram, just a bed mat. My new F350 SD PSD with 18,000 miles in 7 months has the Herculiner which I rolled in and I'm using a polyester(not vinyl) roll-up soft top for easy access with out the hassle of the cap, which I'm thankful for.
Haven't heard about this for a while, but I took the beast in the get the cab bolts torqued yesterday. Same old popping sound. I started describing it, the dealer guy says, "cab bolts, we've seen a lot of them. No problem." 2000 250 4x4 V10,CC. Interestingly enough (and maybe it's in my mind) it seemed to tighten down the sound level in the cab.
Did they describe on the work order what of what they did to the cab bolts? Did they just 'tighten' them? or was there some other work or replacment parts that they used?
I have the popping still, but its less frequent in the cooler weather.. I hate to take it to the shop only to have them say 'I dont hear the problem'.
I've been reading a while. I notice that the majority here own 250's. Can I get some feed back on why some of you decided on 250's vs 350's? Was it price or ride? I've also heard that more truck is better, 250 vs 150 and diesel vs gas. So why not a 350? I agree with "mo betta" that's why I ordered a 01' 350 PSD 4x4 CC lariat
I probably didn't even need the 250 as a f150 would have met my light towing/hauling needs. I liked the extra interior room of the SuperDuty as well as the look.. 250 v 350. The tag along trailer towing capacity of the 250 is about the same as the 350, but the 350 has more capability to haul in the bed of the truck. This also gives an advantage when towing big 5th wheels too where theres more pin weight.
I never saw any answers to your questions, posted. I live in Florida and I use the ac 10 months out of 12 and mine dosen't work worth a #### either. I haven't gotten any answers from FORD, yet. Let me know if you got any satisfaction to your ac problem. I am still working on mine. Anyone else out there got a Super Duty that the ac works well, please let me know. Love the truck, wish it would keep me cool.
I had the SD all summer here in Raleigh NC where it frequently hit 95+ degrees at 90% humidity.. A/C worked just fine. One time I forgot to put my sunshade in the windshield during the day which allowed the inside of the truck to really heat up.. Then it took a while for the A/C to blow as cold as it normally does.. I think it was because the duct work was so warm.
00' F250 SD xlt 4x2 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS white exterior with med grey interior..
There's a lot on this topic posted in the Ford Diesel bulletin boards. Appears to affect the Excursion as well. Ford won't acknowledge the problem it seems. As someone said, "Maybe the system was designed by the same team assigned to the original cupholder, and the cupholder came out best!"
Super Duty A/C was a problem here in Oky City America this past summer where we had a month of 105-108 degrees F. Much better than nothing but still under powered for most southern states. I have the Crew Cab with white exterior, tan inside leather, V-10, auto. If Ford put the same A/C equipment on the Crew Cab as on the Extended Cab, then the Extended Cab folks naturally won't complain as much because of the lesser inside area to cool. Happy motoring ....
I have a 1999 F150 XLT Supercab (4.6L V8, 2wd built in June 1999) we bought this last August (left over conversion truck). Through temperatures ranging up to 111 here in DFW, the air conditioner was capable of freezing us out of the cab. The only time we turned the temperature control all the way cool was when first getting into the vehicle after it had been sitting in the sun; it would cool us to a chill within 2 or 3 minutes when we would be forced to set the temp control a bit warmer. I did not get brave enough to squeeze the truck into our garage until just last week (less than 1 foot total clearance front and back combined!) so it sat outside through all that heat.
While the SuperCrew cabs are bigger (maybe 1 1/2 times the space in the Supercab), I cannot imagine our air conditioner being overcome by that additional space. So it appears that this is definitely something fixable with standard Ford-used air conditioning systems.
I was talking about Super Duty (F-250 in my case) A/C problems while you are talking about F-150 A/C. I feel we are talking apples and oranges because of differences in inside cab volume, insulation, engine heat (6.8L V-10 vs. 4.6L V-8), configuration and size of A/C components, etc., etc., etc. My wife has a Mercury Villiger that will throw snow balls at you inside 3 minutes even if left sitting in 108 degree heat all day. Again, we are talking apples and oranges. My brother has had two Super Duties (2000 and 2001 F-350's) and complained about the same problem with air conditioning not strong enough for very hot weather.
Yes, I understood the differences. However, at least one of those differences (bigger, more powerful engine) would worked toward more cooling not less (increased ability to spin the compressor). The volume is less significant, I think, given that they aren't all that different. Of course, it is possible that the trim level does not provide the same level of insulation.
Even so, the point is that Ford does have the knowledge to provide sufficient cooling and I have a hard time believing that this is a design problem. I just don't believe that all Super Duty Crew Cabs suffer from this deficiency. Surely, this would be a more universally-reported complaint if that were the case. It surely is worth pursuing with the service department. FW(little)IW....
Question for the experts,if I want a F350 PSD 4.10 rear I have to go with a dually.I prefer the single rear wheel,my only option being the 3.73 rear.I plan on putting bigger tires on the truck which will bring my gear ratio lower.I would prefer the 4.10's.Anybody know why the 4.10's aren't available with the SRW?????
Thanks for all your responses, thought I may be the only one with a weak air conditioner in my Super Duty. My truck is a y2k, 250, sc, v10, auto,3.73 with 7000 miles on it. Can't get above 10 mpg, even on the flat roads in Florida. IF a few of you would take the temperature coming out of your air duct on max ac and post the temperature I would be most greatful. Mine blows at 53 degrees. THANKS
bess-sorry for the delay. I haven't been on in a few days. Took a 20 mile hike this weekend with the boys.
The work order said "torqued the cab bolts to specifications." It was popping only when I turned right and up into a driveway or across a fairly significant change in grade. Then, it popped under the left rear seat. No parts, no major time. One hour billed (warranteed) actual time was probably 15-20 minutes max.
a-c: I live in Georgia and it's hot and humid here. I have to run mine on max in the summer. That recycles the air from inside the truck which is already de-humidified so it feels cooler. Florida must be a real problem. Sometimes if I switch to regular A/C and bring in outside air, it actually blows a fog, like a contrail inside the truck. Eerie the first time you see it. I also think the a/c is a little underpowered for the size cab we have (CC). I'd bet you $10 they use the same size compressor, accumulator, etc. as they do on the regular cab with one seat.This thing has a greenhouse and a lot of surface to collect and retain heat.
250 vs. 350: I bought the 250 mainly because at the time, the 250 had 2" lift blocks on the springs and the 350 had 4" so it rode lower and fit under garage doors, parking decks,etc a little better. These are tall trucks.
I'm tall (6'4") but the step up is bad enough with the lower blocks and I didn't need the heavier weight capacity. My wife is 5'3" and needs a ladder and parachute combination as it is.
I did cheat a little, though. I ordered the camper package for the slide in camper because it came with an extra overload leaf spring (I think)and a sway bar for more capacity at a lower ride height, as I recall.
The ride height was also important because my camper is a Prowler 29S bumper pull and it rides low. I still had to raise the camper, so I don't know if I outsmarted myself there. Carrying capacity is not a problem, it's about 2200# which is plenty for me. The 250 was also a little cheaper, but I don't know if I saved anything. I doubt it. It rides good, too.
lilelmo & wildside1 have humbled this lowly F150 owner. In my eagerness to be helpful (and perhaps a residual adolescent urge to be accepted by the "big boys" ;-)), I neglected to mention that my Supercab has the XLT package darkly-tinted glass on the rear and half-door glass. In addition, my front door windows have had tinting added (though slightly lighter) as part of the conversion package. It would seem, as lilelmo points out, that the greenhouse effect from the larger glass area on your CC would be a far more significant source of heating (and also radiated cooling loss) than the additional interior space is (IMHO).
If you already have 53 degree air coming out of the vents (any colder would chill flesh on contact), then it would appear to be either an air flow issue or the heat-gain/cooling-loss of all that glass. Are your windows tinted? That would seem to be the most significant thing you could do (unless there really is insufficient air flow to distribute the cold air you are already getting).
Please forgive my intrusions into you alls' SuperDuty world. I'm a trouble shooter by profession and disposition; I simply cannot resist a mystery.... :-|
Why, no apologies expected or needed. ;-) I've wondered much the same things all summer. I believe all are accepted here. Curiousity is a most admirable trait.
Regarding the heat/greenhouse effect, I happened to have a thermometer lying in the right front floor area last summer for some reason, after the truck had been sitting locked up in the sun all day. It said 120 degrees in the shaded floor area under the dash.
Yes, my rear windows and slider are tinted as part of the required slider option. I didn't want that, but I'm glad now they are. Could it be that Ford knew something about the heat? Wouldn't it be nice to have an A/C outlet under the console or front seat like vans do.
Just picked up my first SD. (actually it's the wife's) True blue,'01, CC, V10, shortbed, 3.73, LS (??) About 700 miles. Very nice except for one small problem with the limited slip axle (or the apparent lack thereof).
I ordered it with limited slip. The window sticker sheet says it has limited slip. The dealer says it has limited slip. However, the truck doesn't act like it. Yesterday morning, I spun the passenger side rear tire (only) pulling out of wet grass on a slight uphill. I tried several more times going VERY slowly, but couldn't keep from spinning the one rear wheel. Using the 4x4 was the only way I could pull out without doing major damage to the yard. I've owned several other vehicles with ltd. slip and never had one act like this. Any thoughts or comments out there??? Does anyone know of a method to check the LS to see if it's working?
I SAY GO TO THE DEALER, GET ON SAND AND FLOOR IT. PROVE IT TO HIM. I AM CONSTANTLY ON CONSTRUCTION SITES, IN SAND, DIRT, MUD AND ALWAYS SEE TWO "STRETCH MARKS" WHEN I TAKE OFF QUICK, IN 2 WHEEL DRIVE. 2000 F250 V10 CC SB LARIAT 4 X 4 AUTO 3.73 LS
I HAVE JUST TURN 6K MILES AND OUR TEMPERATURES ARE IN THE 50'S. MY TRUCK SOUNDS LIKE AN OLD BABY CARRIAGE FROM THE 1960'S. I AM GETTING SQUEEKS I THINK FROM THE FRONT AND REAR LEAF SHACKLES, BUT I AM NOT SURE. I CAN'T DUPLICATE THE NOISE BY ROCKING THE TRUCK, IT MUST BE DRIVEN. DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR TO ANYONE? OR DOES ANYONE HAVE KNOWLEDGE OF A TSB # I CAN GIVE TO THE DEALER TO INVESTIGATE. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS.
I live in the same area as Wildside and have basically the same truck in configuration and color. I have tinted windows, except for the windshield, and I have the same complaint about the A/C. It sure doesn't do well in 100 degree temps.
I had all cab mounts re-torqued last summer along with several other things that were loose from the factory. I still have a clunk although now it seems to happen only when I turn left and climb at the same time. This occurred quite often during my hunting trip in the Colo. mountains last month but I seriously putting some twist on the chassis at the time. This condition also seems much more prominent on hot days when just going in the drive way will result in a clunk in the left rear cab area. When it happens, it sounds almost like the bed has hit the cab. Right now there is no problem and dealer can't duplicate it. I will return next summer and have it looked at again I sure.
i usually spray the areas you mentioned with a good dose of wd40 every few months. This seems to do the trick.Stays quiet as long as we dont get a lot of rain to wash it off.Still , it's annoying to have to do so.
Bucky, i too was wondering about that. i heard that it requires a whole lot of input before it engages.
but the funny thing is, if that were true, the truck definitely oversteers the more you accelerate through a long curve, as if the limited slip is working then..
Got our first snow and ice last night here in OKY City land. Was like a kid driving to work this morning. We don't get much of this stuff so have to have fun when we get a chance.
oturner1 .... only minor thing I've had with suspension is some on and off minor clunks and bushing noises when turning, climbing, and going over bumps slow. I've had this stuff on and off since new.
Haven't taken truck back for loose leather on steering wheel as of yet.
Yep - The snow was great. Didn't last long enough. I have a deer lease east of Norman and had a great time last week in the mud. Wait until you see one of these beasts buried to the axles. Sunk to the running boards. Took two shovels, one hour, and a young son to get it out. Guess a winch may be my next option.
I have to put a major twist on the truck to produce a clunk when it is cold outside.
I am seriously considering an F250 super duty 4X4 crew cab SB. This is a heavy truck. To have a little getup and go I will likely want the V10. The next decision would be a 3.73 or a 4.30 rear end. The 4.10 doesn't come with the v10. I'm concerened that I may be building the ultimate gas hog if I put the 4.30 rear end on it. There has to be a number of you guys that have each. What's your best advice? A little extra info- The F250 is needed for payload and the crewcab for extended trips with the entire family. Basically a delivery truck that doubles as the family carryall.
I've got a 2000 4X4,CC,V10,auto,3.73LS. I pull 3,000# regularly while hauling 4-5 people and a 7,000# bumper pull trailer while hauling 5 occasionally. I get 11-12 around town depending on a/c and windows up or down. I get 14.4-15 on the interstate highway empty with the windows up, cruise on at 60 mph and a/c off. I lose 1 mpg to a/c and about 2 to the open windows at the same speed. When I go 70 I lose another 1 mpg.
When I pull the 3,000# box trailer with a/c on, I get 11-12 on the highway or around town. When I pull the bigger camper with family (5 of us) I get 9-10 highway or not. I generally don't pull with the cruise.
The 4.30 would definitely pull better, but I pull 70-75 mph with no problems. I turn the OD off if I'm in hilly or mountainous terrain. I live in N. GA (small mountains).
It sort of depends on your tolerance for revs. I use my truck mainly to drive to, from, and at work.
If you subtract 3.73 from 4.30 you get .57 then divide .57 by 3.73 and you get 15.8%. That's how much faster you'll turn in rpms for the same speed with the same tires/wheels to get the same speed. It'll take about 15.8% more gas to go the same distance at the same speed cause your engine is turning more times.
Another way to look at it is that you'll burn 15.8% more gas or get 15.8% fewer mpg. Bottom line is what you need vs. what you want to pay. Other opinions, as they say, will vary. :-)
Thanks for the info. I don't need the pulling power of the 4:30 rear end. I'm using the truck as a delivery vehicle, family hauler, and personal car. That personal car thing is what can get me in trouble here because once in a while I like to get into the throttle and feel the power. Not real often, but I like to know its all there. The 4:30 must be quicker off the line, but is it worth it?
I can understand the worry, but for me personally, I think it's worth it, especially when hauling more weight around (the weight of the crew cab, people, and stuff). Of course, you'll use more gas when cruising on flat roads.. but now, in my opinion (so i could be wrong), the 3.73 may use up just as much gas when trying to accelerate, because although yes, it's depends on the rpms, it really depends directly on the amount of throttle so that in certain situations like going uphill, you'll have to open more throttle with the 3.73 than the 4.3 so the mileage may equalize that way.. i'm not trying to detract from the fact that 4.3 does use more gas on average.. but i just like the power try driving both if you can..
The truck I bought and broke in for my Mom ...V10, 4.30 gears
Mine will not spin tires from dead stop, straight take off. My Mom's does. I can make mine spin (power braking) but that is hard on the truck. Or going around a corner it'll break loose. If you take my Mom's truck around a corner and floor it you will be sideways in the road, NO QUESTIONS ASKED! If that is what your looking for in your truck, you will be thrilled.
I did not have the chance to run them side by side but I will on Thanksgiving. I would think Mom's will win. However you will in no way be disappointed with the power and quickness of the 3.73 gears. And I know you will be losing at least 2 mpg with the 4.30.
I went this way...3.73 gears, flowmaster exhaust, K&N filter and soon to be headers. You will always have even better mpg with these mods. driven normal. And it will give you a lot more power when you want it.
I have seen the mileage figures for the V-10 versus diesel, but have never seen anyone mention what octane gas the V-10 uses. Does it require low, mid, or high grade gas?
Does anyone have any information on the long term durability of the 5.4L engine? I am considering a truck, hate to spend the extra $ for a diesel, but like the fuel mileage. The 5.4L sounds as if it would do most of what I want to do.
The 5.4L has been out there for several years now, and folks have racked up hundereds of thousands of miles on them in that time. I've heard of no problems that would affect the longevity of the engine. The closest thing I've seen mentioned is piston slap that could occur on a small % of engines made before 4/99. But even this didn't seem to affect the 'life' of the engines. I feel the the 5.4L is easily capable of 200K+ miles.
You only need to use the standard 87 octane. Towing a 34' camper weighing in at 9800 lbs, have only once heard the slightest pinging. If your atmospheric conditions cause your truck to ping/spark knock when under heavy load, then only go to the 89 to 90 octane first.
Just got my 01 SD CC V10 SB 4X4. Love the truck, plenty of power, quiet, and my kids can hardly touch each other in the back seat. I made a mistake on the order and did not get the overhead console with the Compass, Temp. and Mileage. Does anyone know if the wiring is in place under the headliner? I want to order the console and put it in myself. It would be a lot easier if the wiring is already there. Thanks
Comments
Noting that chips do adjust tranny shifting could be another cause of problems your having? There are so many folks out there using the chips that I also find it hard to believe that they are causing tranny problems, but I bet if you were still under warranty the warranty service would feel differently.
Now if you did ALOT of modifications, I think 80 to 100 hp increase on a gasser might be possible. Such as:
chip + headers + exhaust + electric fan + power pullys + air intake mods.. etc..
Just stuff to think about.
By the way yours is the first truck I've seen with, what appears to be, the same cab steps that I got from the Ford dealer. I can't believe hardly anyone else gets them.
Now the big question, what did all this cost you? Bottom figure and time.
next question: i'm still looking for a cap for my bed, and the local ford dealer has "Rayder" (spelling?) brand. anyone know anything good or bad about this brand? thanks for the input.
I e-mailed the company to find out if their chip would have caused the problem but I don't expect the hear them say "YES". I did ask a few questions, like, towing a Bobcat + attachments(5 tons), a 3:73 rearend, and the chip aren't compatible????
I'm looking for others out there with similar problems. Does anyone out there have similar upgrades as I have been told I have?
one who had those factory steps! and yes,
it's all about the decisions.. which meant giving
up, er, saving alot. so, yes, it was and will be
a lot of time and money. even then, i still had
to opt for more affordable items so i won't go
broke of course
because it's not yet done..
bowhunti, i too had a chip (superchip) that i
subsequently removed because it seemed to
exacerbate the problem. took it to the dealer and
although they couldn't find a problem nor was able
to find the tsb, they did remove the tranny,
overhaul valve body and accumalator body (??),
changed the fluid, filter and seal--and i think
all that actually helped. at least i didn't
experience the jerkiness and rpm flairs the short
while i took out for a spin at the mod shop.
as for caps, i found another place in town which also sells the raider brand. one option i am considering are the side windows that flip up to allow better access to the rest of the bed. again, anyone out there have experience with raider bed caps, and regardless of the brand, what comments are there about the option of flip-up side windows. thank you for your time.
We haven't had any leaking problems either, my truck had a penda liner and I didn't let them cut off the front lip of the liner either. My brother dosen't have any liner in his Ram, just a bed mat. My new F350 SD PSD with 18,000 miles in 7 months has the Herculiner which I rolled in and I'm using a polyester(not vinyl) roll-up soft top for easy access with out the hassle of the cap, which I'm thankful for.
2000 250 4x4 V10,CC. Interestingly enough (and maybe it's in my mind) it seemed to tighten down the sound level in the cab.
Did they just 'tighten' them? or was there some other work or replacment parts that they used?
I have the popping still, but its less frequent in the cooler weather.. I hate to take it to the shop only to have them say 'I dont hear the problem'.
appreciate the feedback.
See the www.f150world.com article 2001 Ford F-650 Super CrewZer
;-)
250 v 350. The tag along trailer towing capacity of the 250 is about the same as the 350, but the 350 has more capability to haul in the bed of the truck. This also gives an advantage when towing big 5th wheels too where theres more pin weight.
A/C worked just fine. One time I forgot to put my sunshade in the windshield during the day which allowed the inside of the truck to really heat up.. Then it took a while for the A/C to blow as cold as it normally does.. I think it was because the duct work was so warm.
00' F250 SD xlt 4x2 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS white exterior with med grey interior..
While the SuperCrew cabs are bigger (maybe 1 1/2 times the space in the Supercab), I cannot imagine our air conditioner being overcome by that additional space. So it appears that this is definitely something fixable with standard Ford-used air conditioning systems.
Even so, the point is that Ford does have the knowledge to provide sufficient cooling and I have a hard time believing that this is a design problem. I just don't believe that all Super Duty Crew Cabs suffer from this deficiency. Surely, this would be a more universally-reported complaint if that were the case. It surely is worth pursuing with the service department. FW(little)IW....
Good luck :-)
The work order said "torqued the cab bolts to specifications." It was popping only when I turned right and up into a driveway or across a fairly significant change in grade. Then, it popped under the left rear seat. No parts, no major time. One hour billed (warranteed) actual time was probably 15-20 minutes max.
a-c: I live in Georgia and it's hot and humid here. I have to run mine on max in the summer. That recycles the air from inside the truck which is already de-humidified so it feels cooler. Florida must be a real problem. Sometimes if I switch to regular A/C and bring in outside air, it actually blows a fog, like a contrail inside the truck. Eerie the first time you see it. I also think the a/c is a little underpowered for the size cab we have (CC). I'd bet you $10 they use the same size compressor, accumulator, etc. as they do on the regular cab with one seat.This thing has a greenhouse and a lot of surface to collect and retain heat.
250 vs. 350: I bought the 250 mainly because at the time, the 250 had 2" lift blocks on the springs and the 350 had 4" so it rode lower and fit under garage doors, parking decks,etc a little better. These are tall trucks.
I'm tall (6'4") but the step up is bad enough with the lower blocks and I didn't need the heavier weight capacity. My wife is 5'3" and needs a ladder and parachute combination as it is.
I did cheat a little, though. I ordered the camper package for the slide in camper because it came with an extra overload leaf spring (I think)and a sway bar for more capacity at a lower ride height, as I recall.
The ride height was also important because my camper is a Prowler 29S bumper pull and it rides low. I still had to raise the camper, so I don't know if I outsmarted myself there. Carrying capacity is not a problem, it's about 2200# which is plenty for me. The 250 was also a little cheaper, but I don't know if I saved anything. I doubt it. It rides good, too.
2000, 4x4, CC, V10, 3.73, LS, auto.
If you already have 53 degree air coming out of the vents (any colder would chill flesh on contact), then it would appear to be either an air flow issue or the heat-gain/cooling-loss of all that glass. Are your windows tinted? That would seem to be the most significant thing you could do (unless there really is insufficient air flow to distribute the cold air you are already getting).
Please forgive my intrusions into you alls' SuperDuty world. I'm a trouble shooter by profession and disposition; I simply cannot resist a mystery.... :-|
Regarding the heat/greenhouse effect, I happened to have a thermometer lying in the right front floor area last summer for some reason, after the truck had been sitting locked up in the sun all day. It said 120 degrees in the shaded floor area under the dash.
Yes, my rear windows and slider are tinted as part of the required slider option. I didn't want that, but I'm glad now they are. Could it be that Ford knew something about the heat? Wouldn't it be nice to have an A/C outlet under the console or front seat like vans do.
I ordered it with limited slip. The window sticker sheet says it has limited slip. The dealer says it has limited slip. However, the truck doesn't act like it. Yesterday morning, I spun the passenger side rear tire (only) pulling out of wet grass on a slight uphill. I tried several more times going VERY slowly, but couldn't keep from spinning the one rear wheel. Using the 4x4 was the only way I could pull out without doing major damage to the yard.
I've owned several other vehicles with ltd. slip and never had one act like this.
Any thoughts or comments out there??? Does anyone know of a method to check the LS to see if it's working?
PROVE IT TO HIM. I AM CONSTANTLY ON CONSTRUCTION SITES, IN SAND, DIRT, MUD AND ALWAYS SEE TWO "STRETCH MARKS" WHEN I TAKE OFF QUICK, IN 2 WHEEL DRIVE.
2000 F250 V10 CC SB LARIAT 4 X 4 AUTO 3.73 LS
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
THANKS.
I had all cab mounts re-torqued last summer along with several other things that were loose from the factory. I still have a clunk although now it seems to happen only when I turn left and climb at the same time. This occurred quite often during my hunting trip in the Colo. mountains last month but I seriously putting some twist on the chassis at the time. This condition also seems much more prominent on hot days when just going in the drive way will result in a clunk in the left rear cab area. When it happens, it sounds almost like the bed has hit the cab. Right now there is no problem and dealer can't duplicate it. I will return next summer and have it looked at again I sure.
that it requires a whole lot of input before it
engages.
but the funny thing is, if that were true, the
truck definitely oversteers the more you
accelerate through a long curve, as if the limited
slip is working then..
oturner1 .... only minor thing I've had with suspension is some on and off minor clunks and bushing noises when turning, climbing, and going over bumps slow. I've had this stuff on and off since new.
Haven't taken truck back for loose leather on steering wheel as of yet.
Just hope it snows all winter ....
I have to put a major twist on the truck to produce a clunk when it is cold outside.
Let it snow!!!!
When I pull the 3,000# box trailer with a/c on, I get 11-12 on the highway or around town. When I pull the bigger camper with family (5 of us) I get 9-10 highway or not. I generally don't pull with the cruise.
The 4.30 would definitely pull better, but I pull 70-75 mph with no problems. I turn the OD off if I'm in hilly or mountainous terrain. I live in N. GA (small mountains).
It sort of depends on your tolerance for revs. I use my truck mainly to drive to, from, and at work.
If you subtract 3.73 from 4.30 you get .57 then divide .57 by 3.73 and you get 15.8%. That's how much faster you'll turn in rpms for the same speed with the same tires/wheels to get the same speed. It'll take about 15.8% more gas to go the same distance at the same speed cause your engine is turning more times.
Another way to look at it is that you'll burn 15.8% more gas or get 15.8% fewer mpg. Bottom line is what you need vs. what you want to pay. Other opinions, as they say, will vary. :-)
I think it's worth it, especially when hauling
more weight around (the weight of the crew cab,
people, and stuff). Of course, you'll use more
gas when cruising on flat roads.. but now, in my
opinion (so i could be wrong), the 3.73 may use
up just as much gas when trying to accelerate,
because although yes, it's depends on the rpms, it
really depends directly on the amount of throttle
so that in certain situations like going uphill,
you'll have to open more throttle with the 3.73
than the 4.3 so the mileage may equalize that
way.. i'm not trying to detract from the fact that
4.3 does use more gas on average.. but i just like
the power
The truck I bought and broke in for my Mom
...V10, 4.30 gears
Mine will not spin tires from dead stop, straight take off. My Mom's does. I can make mine spin (power braking) but that is hard on the truck. Or going around a corner it'll break loose. If you take my Mom's truck around a corner and floor it you will be sideways in the road, NO QUESTIONS ASKED! If that is what your looking for in your truck, you will be thrilled.
I did not have the chance to run them side by side but I will on Thanksgiving. I would think Mom's will win. However you will in no way be disappointed with the power and quickness of the 3.73 gears. And I know you will be losing at least 2 mpg with the 4.30.
I went this way...3.73 gears, flowmaster exhaust, K&N filter and soon to be headers. You will always have even better mpg with these mods. driven normal. And it will give you a lot more power when you want it.
I feel the the 5.4L is easily capable of 200K+ miles.
I made a mistake on the order and did not get the overhead console with the Compass, Temp. and Mileage.
Does anyone know if the wiring is in place under the headliner? I want to order the console and put it in myself. It would be a lot easier if the wiring is already there.
Thanks