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Comments
Noting that chips do adjust tranny shifting could be another cause of problems your having? There are so many folks out there using the chips that I also find it hard to believe that they are causing tranny problems, but I bet if you were still under warranty the warranty service would feel differently.
Now if you did ALOT of modifications, I think 80 to 100 hp increase on a gasser might be possible. Such as:
chip + headers + exhaust + electric fan + power pullys + air intake mods.. etc..
Just stuff to think about.
By the way yours is the first truck I've seen with, what appears to be, the same cab steps that I got from the Ford dealer. I can't believe hardly anyone else gets them.
Now the big question, what did all this cost you? Bottom figure and time.
next question: i'm still looking for a cap for my bed, and the local ford dealer has "Rayder" (spelling?) brand. anyone know anything good or bad about this brand? thanks for the input.
I e-mailed the company to find out if their chip would have caused the problem but I don't expect the hear them say "YES". I did ask a few questions, like, towing a Bobcat + attachments(5 tons), a 3:73 rearend, and the chip aren't compatible????
I'm looking for others out there with similar problems. Does anyone out there have similar upgrades as I have been told I have?
one who had those factory steps! and yes,
it's all about the decisions.. which meant giving
up, er, saving alot. so, yes, it was and will be
a lot of time and money. even then, i still had
to opt for more affordable items so i won't go
broke of course
because it's not yet done..
bowhunti, i too had a chip (superchip) that i
subsequently removed because it seemed to
exacerbate the problem. took it to the dealer and
although they couldn't find a problem nor was able
to find the tsb, they did remove the tranny,
overhaul valve body and accumalator body (??),
changed the fluid, filter and seal--and i think
all that actually helped. at least i didn't
experience the jerkiness and rpm flairs the short
while i took out for a spin at the mod shop.
as for caps, i found another place in town which also sells the raider brand. one option i am considering are the side windows that flip up to allow better access to the rest of the bed. again, anyone out there have experience with raider bed caps, and regardless of the brand, what comments are there about the option of flip-up side windows. thank you for your time.
We haven't had any leaking problems either, my truck had a penda liner and I didn't let them cut off the front lip of the liner either. My brother dosen't have any liner in his Ram, just a bed mat. My new F350 SD PSD with 18,000 miles in 7 months has the Herculiner which I rolled in and I'm using a polyester(not vinyl) roll-up soft top for easy access with out the hassle of the cap, which I'm thankful for.
2000 250 4x4 V10,CC. Interestingly enough (and maybe it's in my mind) it seemed to tighten down the sound level in the cab.
Did they just 'tighten' them? or was there some other work or replacment parts that they used?
I have the popping still, but its less frequent in the cooler weather.. I hate to take it to the shop only to have them say 'I dont hear the problem'.
appreciate the feedback.
See the www.f150world.com article 2001 Ford F-650 Super CrewZer
;-)
250 v 350. The tag along trailer towing capacity of the 250 is about the same as the 350, but the 350 has more capability to haul in the bed of the truck. This also gives an advantage when towing big 5th wheels too where theres more pin weight.
A/C worked just fine. One time I forgot to put my sunshade in the windshield during the day which allowed the inside of the truck to really heat up.. Then it took a while for the A/C to blow as cold as it normally does.. I think it was because the duct work was so warm.
00' F250 SD xlt 4x2 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS white exterior with med grey interior..
While the SuperCrew cabs are bigger (maybe 1 1/2 times the space in the Supercab), I cannot imagine our air conditioner being overcome by that additional space. So it appears that this is definitely something fixable with standard Ford-used air conditioning systems.
Even so, the point is that Ford does have the knowledge to provide sufficient cooling and I have a hard time believing that this is a design problem. I just don't believe that all Super Duty Crew Cabs suffer from this deficiency. Surely, this would be a more universally-reported complaint if that were the case. It surely is worth pursuing with the service department. FW(little)IW....
Good luck :-)
The work order said "torqued the cab bolts to specifications." It was popping only when I turned right and up into a driveway or across a fairly significant change in grade. Then, it popped under the left rear seat. No parts, no major time. One hour billed (warranteed) actual time was probably 15-20 minutes max.
a-c: I live in Georgia and it's hot and humid here. I have to run mine on max in the summer. That recycles the air from inside the truck which is already de-humidified so it feels cooler. Florida must be a real problem. Sometimes if I switch to regular A/C and bring in outside air, it actually blows a fog, like a contrail inside the truck. Eerie the first time you see it. I also think the a/c is a little underpowered for the size cab we have (CC). I'd bet you $10 they use the same size compressor, accumulator, etc. as they do on the regular cab with one seat.This thing has a greenhouse and a lot of surface to collect and retain heat.
250 vs. 350: I bought the 250 mainly because at the time, the 250 had 2" lift blocks on the springs and the 350 had 4" so it rode lower and fit under garage doors, parking decks,etc a little better. These are tall trucks.
I'm tall (6'4") but the step up is bad enough with the lower blocks and I didn't need the heavier weight capacity. My wife is 5'3" and needs a ladder and parachute combination as it is.
I did cheat a little, though. I ordered the camper package for the slide in camper because it came with an extra overload leaf spring (I think)and a sway bar for more capacity at a lower ride height, as I recall.
The ride height was also important because my camper is a Prowler 29S bumper pull and it rides low. I still had to raise the camper, so I don't know if I outsmarted myself there. Carrying capacity is not a problem, it's about 2200# which is plenty for me. The 250 was also a little cheaper, but I don't know if I saved anything. I doubt it. It rides good, too.
2000, 4x4, CC, V10, 3.73, LS, auto.
If you already have 53 degree air coming out of the vents (any colder would chill flesh on contact), then it would appear to be either an air flow issue or the heat-gain/cooling-loss of all that glass. Are your windows tinted? That would seem to be the most significant thing you could do (unless there really is insufficient air flow to distribute the cold air you are already getting).
Please forgive my intrusions into you alls' SuperDuty world. I'm a trouble shooter by profession and disposition; I simply cannot resist a mystery.... :-|
Regarding the heat/greenhouse effect, I happened to have a thermometer lying in the right front floor area last summer for some reason, after the truck had been sitting locked up in the sun all day. It said 120 degrees in the shaded floor area under the dash.
Yes, my rear windows and slider are tinted as part of the required slider option. I didn't want that, but I'm glad now they are. Could it be that Ford knew something about the heat? Wouldn't it be nice to have an A/C outlet under the console or front seat like vans do.
I ordered it with limited slip. The window sticker sheet says it has limited slip. The dealer says it has limited slip. However, the truck doesn't act like it. Yesterday morning, I spun the passenger side rear tire (only) pulling out of wet grass on a slight uphill. I tried several more times going VERY slowly, but couldn't keep from spinning the one rear wheel. Using the 4x4 was the only way I could pull out without doing major damage to the yard.
I've owned several other vehicles with ltd. slip and never had one act like this.
Any thoughts or comments out there??? Does anyone know of a method to check the LS to see if it's working?
PROVE IT TO HIM. I AM CONSTANTLY ON CONSTRUCTION SITES, IN SAND, DIRT, MUD AND ALWAYS SEE TWO "STRETCH MARKS" WHEN I TAKE OFF QUICK, IN 2 WHEEL DRIVE.
2000 F250 V10 CC SB LARIAT 4 X 4 AUTO 3.73 LS
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
THANKS.
I had all cab mounts re-torqued last summer along with several other things that were loose from the factory. I still have a clunk although now it seems to happen only when I turn left and climb at the same time. This occurred quite often during my hunting trip in the Colo. mountains last month but I seriously putting some twist on the chassis at the time. This condition also seems much more prominent on hot days when just going in the drive way will result in a clunk in the left rear cab area. When it happens, it sounds almost like the bed has hit the cab. Right now there is no problem and dealer can't duplicate it. I will return next summer and have it looked at again I sure.
that it requires a whole lot of input before it
engages.
but the funny thing is, if that were true, the
truck definitely oversteers the more you
accelerate through a long curve, as if the limited
slip is working then..
oturner1 .... only minor thing I've had with suspension is some on and off minor clunks and bushing noises when turning, climbing, and going over bumps slow. I've had this stuff on and off since new.
Haven't taken truck back for loose leather on steering wheel as of yet.
Just hope it snows all winter ....
I have to put a major twist on the truck to produce a clunk when it is cold outside.
Let it snow!!!!
When I pull the 3,000# box trailer with a/c on, I get 11-12 on the highway or around town. When I pull the bigger camper with family (5 of us) I get 9-10 highway or not. I generally don't pull with the cruise.
The 4.30 would definitely pull better, but I pull 70-75 mph with no problems. I turn the OD off if I'm in hilly or mountainous terrain. I live in N. GA (small mountains).
It sort of depends on your tolerance for revs. I use my truck mainly to drive to, from, and at work.
If you subtract 3.73 from 4.30 you get .57 then divide .57 by 3.73 and you get 15.8%. That's how much faster you'll turn in rpms for the same speed with the same tires/wheels to get the same speed. It'll take about 15.8% more gas to go the same distance at the same speed cause your engine is turning more times.
Another way to look at it is that you'll burn 15.8% more gas or get 15.8% fewer mpg. Bottom line is what you need vs. what you want to pay. Other opinions, as they say, will vary. :-)
I think it's worth it, especially when hauling
more weight around (the weight of the crew cab,
people, and stuff). Of course, you'll use more
gas when cruising on flat roads.. but now, in my
opinion (so i could be wrong), the 3.73 may use
up just as much gas when trying to accelerate,
because although yes, it's depends on the rpms, it
really depends directly on the amount of throttle
so that in certain situations like going uphill,
you'll have to open more throttle with the 3.73
than the 4.3 so the mileage may equalize that
way.. i'm not trying to detract from the fact that
4.3 does use more gas on average.. but i just like
the power
The truck I bought and broke in for my Mom
...V10, 4.30 gears
Mine will not spin tires from dead stop, straight take off. My Mom's does. I can make mine spin (power braking) but that is hard on the truck. Or going around a corner it'll break loose. If you take my Mom's truck around a corner and floor it you will be sideways in the road, NO QUESTIONS ASKED! If that is what your looking for in your truck, you will be thrilled.
I did not have the chance to run them side by side but I will on Thanksgiving. I would think Mom's will win. However you will in no way be disappointed with the power and quickness of the 3.73 gears. And I know you will be losing at least 2 mpg with the 4.30.
I went this way...3.73 gears, flowmaster exhaust, K&N filter and soon to be headers. You will always have even better mpg with these mods. driven normal. And it will give you a lot more power when you want it.
I feel the the 5.4L is easily capable of 200K+ miles.
I made a mistake on the order and did not get the overhead console with the Compass, Temp. and Mileage.
Does anyone know if the wiring is in place under the headliner? I want to order the console and put it in myself. It would be a lot easier if the wiring is already there.
Thanks