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Toyota Land Cruiser Maintenance and Repair

uwahuskyuwahusky Posts: 17
I just hit 30k miles on my 2003 LandCruiser and called the nearest dealer to ask about the 30k mile check up or maintenance.

They quoted me $699, which seems ridiculously high. Is this really needed or will I be just fine with regular oil changes, etc.


  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what the manufacturer recommends be done and will estimate what it should cost in your zip code.

    Steve, Host
  • katlkatl Posts: 1
    parked and locked in driveway -usually garaged- during heavy thunderstorms and horn went off and blared continuosly unitl i started the engine. this is the horn not the alarm intermittant/light flashing hour later same thing happened: horn stopped when engine was started. so we put it in the garage and same thing happened a few minutes later but this time after starting the engine and the horn finally stopped my husband pushed the horn pad on the steering column and the horn turned on again and would not stop until we pulled the fuse. note: there was also a high pitched whining sound that was heard after the horn was stopped by starting the engine the 3x. it stopped after the fuse was pulled the 4th /final time. car was driven earlier in the day with no problems. horn had not been used recently. vehicle has also been maintained accoring to the owners manual by same toyota dealer since it was purchased from same brand new dec 2001.... we do not work on it ourselves. toyota dealer had it for 3 hours the next day and could not duplicate the problem. they resettled the horn components on the steering column. no recurring problems yet. any help would be greatly appreciated....thanks!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Have to look at my shop manual, but from memory (getting less reliable these days) this service involves oil, trans fluid, TCase and differential lube changes along with a new air filter and the usual tire rotations. You can do this all yourself if you'd like to. The front diff is a bit difficult to reach, but the other areas are fairly accessible. Guesstimate of parts and oil etc--$150 or so?

    One caution if you do these lube changes yourself on the TCase and diffs, undo the fill plug BEFORE the drain plugs. Last thing you want is to drain all the oil and find that you can't get the fill plugs loose! Also, a cheap alternative to a tranny flush is to drain the pan only and refill with fresh trans fluid about every 10K

  • llama_boyllama_boy Posts: 1
    I have been working for the US government in Honduras for the last few years. I have a incredibly reliable 1980 Diesel Toyota Landcruiser with a winch that has mustered the most extreme of terrains. I want to drive it back with me to the states. Obviously there are no vehicle standards in Honduras.

    Can I bring my Toyota back? What kind of standards must it meet. I have done much work on it, and can still do some more.

    Any ideas?
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    The leather steering wheel on my 1995 Cruiser needs to be replaced. The Toyota dealership estimated @$950 to replace it. Ouch!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    What's broken with the current one?
  • halfbaphalfbap Posts: 1
    has anyone encountered a problem with the wheel studs shearing on a toyota landcruiser or any toyota 4 x 4
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    The leather is coming apart, just worn out. I tried area seat cover shops but they don't do that type of work. I guess the airbag is a problem also if you have to take the steering wheel off.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I'd look around for a aftermarket leather cover to lace on, but I'm cheap. :shades:
  • hprjrhprjr Posts: 24
    I'm due for the 90,000 mile service on our'01 LC-what are you members been paying for this service? Thanks for your help.
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    I think I may try a leather repair kit that I found on the internet. It may work. If it reconditions seats then it should work on the steering wheel right?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I was browsing some of the covers last night - the ones you sew on look pretty good although it's hard to tell just from the net pics. A repair kit is worth a shot before spending a grand. :blush:
  • Hi hprjr,

    I just had a 90K service performed on my 2000 LC. You can expect to pay around $1,000 with the timing belt replacement. However, if it needs a water pump and/or other work...add some more $$.

    I tend to do most of my own intermediate work and have the dealer/mechanics do the 15K/30K interval services. The 90K seems to be pretty important because of the timing belt.

  • Recently the back door power windows on my '00 LC go up extremely slow. I have lubricated the rubber tracks and it does not seem to help. The front windows move up and down smoothly and quickly. The rear windows move down smoothly and quickly but up is very slow and, at times, they even stop and require manual assistance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Scott
  • hprjrhprjr Posts: 24
    Scott, thanks for your reply-seems $800 is the avg. on what I've been quoted-4 out the 4 dealerships I contacted initially gave my a price of a 30k service (approx $400)-only when I told them I needed the recommended timing belt replacement did they add another $390-also some included spark plugs and some did not. Lexus dealersips want an average of 1200 for the exact same service for the LX470. Gotta love those profit margins!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide estimates around $300 for the 90,000 mile service on an '01 TLC with the 4.7L 8 cylinder 4A engine for my zip code. The 30k service is about the same price.

    I don't see a timing belt replacement recommendation for the '01 for any mileage; if someone has the manual handy who can quote the recommendation, I'll pass it along so the guide can be updated. Thanks.
  • You're pricing is about the same as I discovered as a base (my local dealer's 90K service was $416). However, according to my '00 manual, timing belt replacement is required. I am not sure why Edmunds wouldn't list this... Furthermore, while they have dismantled the front of the engine, I am going to have them repair anything else that they find because I don't want to do this again later. Therefore, they replaced the serpentine belt and the water pump. Plus add in the shop misc costs and taxes...

    BTW, Lexus service around here is $95/hour; Toyota service is $65/hour. How do you think the Lexus shop pays for all the "free" food & drink and the leather chairs in the waiting room?
  • hprjrhprjr Posts: 24
    Thanks again for your reply-I'll ask them to check the water pump and serpentine belt (which I usually replace every time it starts the cold squealing syndrome) since I plan on keeping her for another 90k. Have you ever had the valves adjusted?
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    I used the leather repair kit on the steering wheel and it worked great. You can not tell that a repair was made. I think I saved $1000. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    That's fun - I don't suppose you took any before and after photos you can post on your CarSpace page. :shades:
  • I have 1988 LandCruiser with a recently installed new engine. The engine was put in about 2 years ago by a Toyota dealer in Columbia SC. It has operated fine for about 2 years it burns a lot of gas but otherwise it has been great.

    The trouble began when I bought a new trailer to haul my ATV's. I wired the tail lights/turn signals up to the trailer (correctly), and they worked for about 2 minutes, but I blew a fuse on the tail light circuit. I replaced the fuse twice even with the tail light harness unplugged but as soon as I turn the light switch on the fuse blows.
    I tracked the wire fron the fuse box up behind the instrument panel to a junction connector and it had obviously melted. I replaced the wire but now the engine will start but runs incredibly bad or rough. Here are some of the strange symptoms that are now occuring.

    If the rear wiring harness is not plugged in to the main harness the engine will not start.

    If you take the signal light hot wire and tie it to the negative or ground the engine starts and idles smoothly( but it will not run at highway speed)
    While the engine is running if you press the brake pedal the engine will imediately die, unless you remove the brake light bulbs.

    FYI The ac compressor quit working about 2 months ago.

    I have driven myself crazy trying to figure this problem out and I am afraid to take to a pro because I am sure the repair charge would be astronomical.

    Your help would be deeply appreciated.

  • I just purchased an '03 Cruiser with 32k miles on it. Where can I obtain an extended warranty for it? The original warranty just expired.
  • I located in Union County, New Jersey. I have a 96 Land Cruiser. Does anyone know of a good independent mechanic to work on my TLC?
  • mercaramercara Posts: 291
    I lived in England for a while and did some reasearch on brining a Landrover Defender 110 back. If the vehicle is older than 25 years which in you case it is, it is relatively easier as you are excempt from man of the safety and emission certifications. Any vehicle newer than 25 years is a pain and will cost you a lot of money. If there is a similar model certified in the US it is slightly easier but still a pain.

    The US Customs has some good information on this.
  • mercaramercara Posts: 291

    I used to live in Hudson County. I tried a number of dealerships for my 2002 LC. Rt 22 Toyota in Hilside ripped me off for a 30K service on my RAV4. Manhattan toyota was a rip off too. However, I have done the last couple of services at Hudson Toyota and I am really satisfied. What I like most about my service adviser Fortunato is that he NEVER tries to sell me crap service that I don't need. My 2002 LC will be due for a 60K servie in the next couple of month. I am debating weather to use an independend mechanic or not, but I don't want to mess up a 30K car to save 200 bucks and I might just end up going to the dealer.

    I have also heard that in dealerships they have a few senior techs but most of the work is done by new trainees so I am a bit concerned of that as well.

    If you really want to find a good independend mechanic, I have used's mechanic files to search by zip code. Again this is based on feedback from posters so you have to take it with a grain of salt and use your own judgement.

    Steve/Host it will be great if you guys could get a thread going on independent shops.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Let's try this for rating independent (and dealer) shops. May as well try to spread the word!

    Land Cruiser Dealer & Service Experiences
  • Thanks for the feedback. I also went to Hillside Toyota and felt that I got ripped off. Wouldn't go back. I recently went to a foreign car mechanic in Cranford who owns a 4 runner. Felt good about the job. If I don't hear of anyone better, I'll stick with him.
  • My 96 LC has had the check engine light on for several years for the EGR code. We have taken it to a few dealers over the years to have it checked out. One saying it needs a new computer chip, we've had one or two valves replaced but the error code returns. Most recently my current mechanic says the hoses and valves are fine, but maybe there could be carbon in the manifold. Has anyone had a similar experience? What was your solution?
  • I have an '03 purchased new and got a $0 deductible, 100k miles, 7 yr Platinum plan from Toyota that was purchased through Toyota of Greenfield (MA) for $1,390. Couldn't recommend them any higher; much lower than other dealers I contacted. Make sure you mention you heard of them via the internet. Sorry, rules say I cannot give name or telephone number.
  • Changed my fluids yesterday and thought I'd post the "how to" for others, plus a few other items to do while you're under the vehicle:

    First: You'll need a sutiable floor jack, and jack stands, gear lube oil per owner's manual specs (note: I just switched over to Redline synthetic 75-90 API GL- 5 in TCase and both differentials: reference Redline customer service or call toll-free at (800) 624-7958)

    Capcities: Front diff 1.8 US qts, transfer case 1.4 US qts, rear diff 3.5 US qts
    Torque specs: drain/fill plug F&R diff 36 ft lbs, TCase, 27 ft lbs

    Jacking: There are two "under engine" covers in the front of the vehicle. One is metal and the other is "plastic". In the center of the metal one, at the rear edge of it, is a large circle. This is between the two front wheel suspension components. I put a rubber insert in the jack saddle, but a piece of wood will work as well. Place the jack saddle here and raise the front end to the desired height and place your jack stands where you want them. I place mine just behind the back of the plastic engine cover on the frame rails. The rear jacking point is the rear diff. Again, jack to desired height and place the jack stands on the frame.

    Once jacked and on stands you can see the rear diff, but you'll need to remove the plastic under engine cover to get proper access to the front diff and tcase. Once you remove all of the bolts, it drops down exposing the front diff etc. With front jack stands in place, I find it easier to slide the cover to the rear, then remove it from under the vehicle.

    This is a good time to lube your propeller shaft sleeve yokes at each end-one to the diff and on to the TCase. There are grease fittings at each end of the propeller shafts. I put about a haf of a pump in to each fitting for the differentials, but only about quarter pump or less in to the ends that go to the tcase. While it's all right to pump until you see some grease come of the fittings on the ends to the diffs, you DON'T want to do that for the TCase fittings. Lubing these points gets rid of or greatly reduces the drive shaft "clunk" mentioned on this forum from time to time. Also, while you're under there, you might want to spray some silicone spray or other suitable product on exposed suspension mountings (e.g. sway bar attachement points etc) to address any squeaks or prevent them if you don't have them.

    Since the rear is the larger of the diffs and most accessible, it's a good one to do first, to get the feel of draining and changing the gear lube. If facing the diff from the front, you'll notice one 24mm nut directly in front of you and another 24mm to the lower right. The top one is the fill plug and the lower one is the drain. Note: loosen the drain plug FIRST. You don't want to drain the oil and then find you've got a problem with your fill plug! Then undo the drain plug and drain the old oil. Replace the drain plug and re-fill the diff via the fill hole. A simple hand pump is all you need to pump the new oil in. As the oil reaches the proper level, you'll noitce the oil starting to drip from the fill hole, when it does, remove the tube from the hole and re-install the fill plug. (You can double check the level by putting your finger in the fill hole.) One down and two to go!

    The transfer case drain and fill plugs are to the front and left. As with the rear diff, these are also 24mm. And, as with the rear, undo the fill plug FIRST. Drain, re-fill etc as with the rear.

    The front diff uses 10mm hex plugs for draining and filling. The fill plug is up and to the right, the drain is on the bottom right. Undo the fill plug first and then the drain. Re-insert and tighten the drain plug, then add the new oil and re-insert the fill plug.

    That's it! Re-install the plastic under engine cover. Remove your jack stands and lower the vehicle. After draining and filling the diffs and tcase, it's a good idea to do drive a short distance and turn the vehicle to the right and left: i.e. weave back and forth a bit.

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