Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Land Cruiser Maintenance and Repair



  • hi guys, i bought a 1992 LC over the summer which has great milage of 50k. i bought it for the purpose of safety and durability but i haven't driven the car since i have stored it over the summer and i often use my rx lexus.

    now i can't seem to start my engine and won't start. i didn;t have any propblems before i bought it. the old seller said it was in perfect condition.

    have any good reasons.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    It might be helpful if you described what you see and hear - or don't see and hear - when you try to start your LC.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Um, did you have it hooked up to a trickle charger to maintain the charge on the battery? Obvious reason, without any other details is that the battery's dead.
  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    Hello Folks,

    My 00' TLC w/ 92K has a windshield leak and water entered fuss box at driver side which caused some malfunctions and unable to drive. The dealer said it's due to rust on upper edge of the windshield. I am wondering, since this rust cause driving problems, will 10yr/100K rust warranty will cover this? How should I argue with dealer about this?

    Thanks a lot.
  • I have a 2003 LC with the brakelight out on the drivers rear. The bulb that is out is in the tailgate. I got the bulb from the dealer ($6) but I cannot figure out how to access??

    Anyone know?
  • Lower the tail gate, you'll see two screws adjacent to the tail light housing (above and below the latch mechanism). Loosen the screws, remove the housing, take out old bulb and put in the new one.

    Many of these things are in the owner's manual

  • Hello,
    I have a 2000 TLC that just turned 100,00 miles. The other day while driving I lost power and heard a horrible noise from underneath the vehicle. I put it Park, it sounded fine, but when I went to try to put it in Drive there was a loud grinding screeching noise. I Called Toyota and had it towed in. Dealership called and said the back axle broke loose and shoved back into Wheel Hub and the transfer case. $5,000 bill to fix. I am very disappointed as my LC has been babied(no off roading) and all service done. I certainly didn't expect kind of breakdown from a LC. Anyone heard of this happening before and if so how did Toyota handle?

  • zaxizaxi Posts: 5
    I own TLC-2000 and mine truned 100K just couple weeks ago.
    I didn't like this broken axel story and the bill sound all wrong.
    in general I don't like dealership shops, I find them to be the worst (I am in Central NJ) A good garage is priceless. I would get an axel from junk yard and it will be 25-30% of this price.
    The only issue I had with my TLC was a starter that needed to be replaced.
    and the brakes problem.
    Good luck with getting something from the dealer on this 5K bill.
  • marnimmarnim Posts: 1
    The beast will not start hot. It has something to do with the power relay overheating because when you let it cool off for 10 minutes ... it starts. Anyone dealt with Power Relay issues on an older (ok ancient) Land Cruiser and if so, any tips on what the main causes of overheating were? Thank you x 1000
  • Have you replaced your thermostat?
  • cotitocotito Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 LC PU W/ 1 HZ. Around 100,000 km. Heavy usage hauling coffee on a really bad road, four wheel chains. The right front swing arm perch came loose from the housing; and, I had it welded and made some straps to help bolster the attachment points. Is this housing tempered? Can I weld additional supports to the housing? Is this common and does Toyota know about it? No luck trying to contact them on the WEB.
  • Is this IFS or solid axle? If IFS, Toyota is aware of it and should handle it under warranty. OME makes a kit that is welded (I believe) in place to strengthen the area.
  • Just turned 100K, wife driving along and it began stalling at low speeds, she kept driving and it began to loose power and needed to be shifted into 2nd gear just to make it back to the house. What could this be? Any ideas? It has transmission fluid but appears to be a bit burnt. In idle and or in Neutral :confuse: the car runs but put it in gear and it stalls imediately. What does it cost to fix such a problem? Any advice would be appreciated
  • Little more to story above. I drove in second gear up a long hill to our home as it seemed to be lugging in the normal drive. Also seemed to lug in down hill dips unless in lower gear. Drove very well on freeway. Just kept stalling at stop signs and would require extra gas to go forward after starting it, then it would lunge forward almost as if it was in the wrong gear. I have just spoken to a Trans. Mech. he said it sounded like maybe a gear/problem or a rare possibility a Trans. problem where something he said that may not be a major transmission problem but something in the transmission needed repair.I forgot the exact thing he said. I was just thinking how great and dependable my TLC was -- Then minutes later this all started. I was very low on gas and a little low on oil when it all started. I put gas and mobil 1 in right away. It seemed fine at first then the problems started again almost worse. Please any ideas. It has been used alot in the dirt and some towing recently on a project. Could something be blocked, I read a blog about blocked air flow and gear shifting. Husband was :mad: at :cry: for taking it all the way home I tried to be gentle though.
  • I read some of the above posts which caution against a transmission fluid flush. Can you explain??

    Also, I've heard that the fan clutch on the LC can be serviced, instead of replaced, but the dealership service manager told me he'd never heard of this. Should I trust him?

    Can you recommend a good independent LC mechanic in the Palm Springs, CA area?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Two major reasons for not flushing your transmission are (1) it may void your warranty and (2) chemicals in the flush (detergents and so forth) can affect the operation of the transmission and lead to early failure.

    I'm sure the experts here will have more to say about it.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I agree with the other poster; never use any chemicals to flush your transmission. The caustic nature of the chemicals can and will ruin the specially formulated rubber seals. Do change the fluid at least as regularly as the manual says you should. However, these days with rapid owner turnover of vehicles, change intervals are far longer than is healthy for the average transmission. Check with your dealer on more frequent changes, especially if you tow anything, or drive very aggressively, and then let them do the changing if it is outside the recommended interval.

    Something else to remember is that heat is the number one enemy of the automatic transmission. If you are going to keep the car for a long time, invest in an auxiliary trans. fluid cooler, unless it it already has one, as in some years they were optional. Again, let the dealer install it - even though it will cost more.

    With reasonably good care and regular fluid changes an automatic transmission can (and has for me) gone well over 200k miles without repair (or chemical flushes).

    If the car is already out of warranty recommendations to have the dealer do anything I mentioned are moot - you can find a good independent LC mechanic to do the changes and install the cooler.
  • Thanks hypnosis44 and tidester, for getting back to me so quickly! I'm sorry I didn't reply immediately to your posts.

    How do I find a good independent LC mechanic? I live in a rural area, near Palm Springs, CA, but would be willing to travel as far as L.A. to find one. My LC is out of warranty, and I'm having trouble with the two Toyota dealerships in this locale. One already did a transmission flush at the 60k service a few years back. I recently called this service department and was told that they routinely do transmission flushes at every 30k interval. The other dealership told me that a transmission flush is "of course, better" than a simple drain-and-refill.

    So, obviously, something is wrong here, right? I don't feel that I can trust either dealership, because of this misinformation. And there have been several other issues as well. I really want to keep this LC for a long time. If you can recommend anyone, please let me know!
  • Another variation that will also work is to disconnect both transmission cooler lines (either at the transmission, or at the radiator). Attach rubber tubes to both lines. Put the intake tube into a large container of the exactly recommended fluid. Place the exhaust tube into an empty container, and run the car until new pink fluid starts coming out of the exhaust tube. Then button it back up, top it off, and your done.

    If the car is still under warranty I would prefer to have the guys at the dealership take responsibility for any fluid changes though - that way they can only point fingers at themselves if something odd occurs.
  • You can do a "cheap" flush, by draining the pan every other oil change. Also, this is a bit tricky, but you can drain the pan, add new fluid, then loosen the drain plug just enough to let some fluid barely seep out. With the engine running keep watching the seeping fluid color, re-tighten the drain plug when the fluid color is the same as new, clear fluid. Make sure to top up the fluid to the proper level.
  • Thanks, steelcruiser and hypnosis44. I wouldn't dare touch the job myself but I'm a little paranoid about the dealer. I complained that the transmission fluid should have been changed at my 90k service, and they told me that, even though Toyota recommends the fluid change, they just topped off the fluid because it looked fine and they were trying to save me money. When I questioned them further, they said they would do a "flush" for the price of the fluid, but after reading this thread and realizing that a flush can and will harm the transmission seals (to paraphrase hypnosis44), I now question why the dealer would advise me that a flush is better for the vehicle than simple fluid changes done more frequently. Oh, and yesterday, I asked about the installation of an auxilliary cooler, hypnosis44; I used your precise nomenclature, but they said they didn't know what I was talking about.

    I feel so leery of trusting the dealer at this point. I've had other issues with them this past year as well. For instance, there was a notation on a previous Toyota service invoice that I needed a power steering flush, but when I brought my LC in at 90k, this wasn't done. When I questioned this, they told me that the issue was subjective, that one mechanic thought it was needed, but another didn't. Can you advise me about power steering flushes? Are these as tricky as transmission flushes, or is there anything I should know about these before I have this done?

    Also, last August, they said they adjusted the camber bolts at no charge, but after they did this, I experienced that "floating" sensation that some of your other posters describe. I felt I had less control, and that I didn't have solid contact with the road. When I complained about this, they told me that they didn't remember adjusting the camber bolts. Then I took my LC to a local tire shop to inspect. They told me my shocks were bone dry and were the original shocks. When I called the dealer to ask about this, I was told that the original LC shocks should last up to 200k miles. I had the shocks changed at the local tire place anyway, and now my LC feels much more solid and the ride is a lot quieter.

    I wish I could find a good independent LC mechanic, as my LC is no longer under warranty. My engine still sounds very loud to me, and has for a long time. A Nissan mechanic told me that my fan clutch is stuck and to take it back to Toyota because the fan clutch can be serviced. But when I asked the Toyota service manager about this, I was told he'd never heard of a fan clutch "service", only a replacement.

    If you have any thoughts on any of these topics, I'd greatly appreciate hearing them! This forum is fantastic. I read every post of all your Land Cruiser threads before buying my LC in 2003. (It's a 1999 LC, by the way.) Thanks!
  • Thanks, steelcruiser! Yes, your comments, and those I've received from other posters, are enormously helpful. You don't add to my anxieties by confirming my fears about this dealer. I did think his comments about shocks lasting 200k was nuts but hearing it from you is a great relief.

    I look forward to hearing any other advice you may be able to offer when you have time. How do I find an LC "club"? I live in the desert about 90 miles east of Los Angeles. I'd travel as far as L.A. if necessary, although of course it would be more convenient if you knew of a club or independent mechanic closer to this area. Thanks again!
  • Without adding to your anxiety, I'm dumbfounded at the dealer's comments about your shocks lasting 200K! The symptoms you described are pretty typical of failing shocks, hence something which should have been at the top of their list of things to check IMHO. Are they any other dealers in your area? See if you there are any Landcruiser club chapters near you?

    Many of these maintenance items can be done DIY and all it takes is someone to show you how and de-mystify them for you.

    What part of the country are you in?

    H-44 didn't want to suggest your method--though I like it and have used it--as I think the OP is more interested in an "easier" approach.

    I'm on the run right now, but I'll post up my thoughts about dealers ASAP.

    Beth hope some of this is helpful to you.
  • Here are a couple of links (below) that may be helpful. Marv Specter is Mr. Landcruiser. Suggest you see if you can come up with a couple of recommendations. If you're in the Ventura area I can steer you in the right direction, but that's a long haul for you.

    See if you can reach Marv on the phone, and tell him what's going on. I'm sure he can offer some additional help to you. For additional piece of mind you may want to get several recommendations, and if one keeps coming up, that might be the one to check out.
  • Remarkable! I hope you are able to find an LC club and/or an independent LC mechanic. That dealership is totally out to lunch on virtually everything and probably a hazard to your car.

    There are a number of after market transmission coolers available. Any "offroad" specialty shop should be able to help you there. They may also be a good source for finding an LC Club or mechanic.

    Try to document the conversation about not wanting to change the trans fluid "to save you some money" so if/when the trans. causes problems - out of warranty or not - you have a record of having tried to maintain your vehicle. Even a certified letter to them, copy the area representative, recounting the conversation could be useful - deny it all they like.

    Most shock absorbers are good for a max. of 50K miles of good service - but sometimes far less if the terrain is worse than average. If anyone ever hears of some going 200K we will all be in line for them.

    As suggested; I was looking for an easier and "neater" way to change the trans. fluid - either method will work well.

    Most power steering flushes I am familiar with involved pumping out the old fluid while simultaneously refilling it with new. Yes, flushes are subjective, but the power steering system takes a severe pounding at very high heat loads - a fluid change is a worthwhile low cost investment. It should not involve any chemicals. (One sometimes used method is to use straight cleaning solvent chasing out the old fluid and then refilling with fresh fluid. It won't harm the seals, but the residue will dilute the new fluid and would seem to provide no real benefit - I can not recommend it.)

    I once worked as the used car mechanic at a dealership - watching the new car mechanics work made me realize I never wanted to take a car into one - that was 45 years ago and nothing has changed.

    Best of luck too you! Sounds like you are handling it well!
  • Thanks for the links, steelcruiser! Unfortunately, I called Specter Off-Road just now, and talked to Roger, who checked with Marv, and they have no shops or independent LC mechanics in my area who buy from them. Roger ran down their list of customers, and found only individuals - LC owners who've bought once or twice. I also checked the LC Club website you suggested. There are no clubs in this area! There really should be, too, because the high desert is a big off-road destination. I'd be happy to accept your recommendation for an LC mechanic in Ventura. Maybe I can just bring my LC in some early morning, and rent a car for the day while it's being checked out.
  • You've voiced my #1 concern - that the service manager's advice has not only been wrong but actually hazardous to my car! I submitted a written complaint to Toyota but the corporate response was simply to forward my email to the dealership. I then talked with the dealer's service director and "customer care representative", who fought with me on every point. "No one remembers" is what the service director told me about the shocks issue. He finally offered to do work on the car for free but, even at no charge, I'm afraid to bring my LC back to him.

    There are two Toyota dealerships in this area - they are bitter rivals and, in the past year, have swapped a number of mechanics and service managers. Since owning my LC, I've gone to both. And in speaking to individuals at both dealerships, it seems to me that either they point the finger at one another, or defend one another, depending on how secure in their jobs they feel. I've checked on the web for complaints against the service departments of Toyota dealers as far away as Longo and Claremont, and customer dissatisfaction seems even higher at these places!

    I'm definitely going to pursue this with corporate, and will let you know what ensues. I really appreciate your posts, hypnosis44!
  • Perhaps a more doable place would be Simi Valley? There's a good tech there named Pat. He's a real gear head and I'm "comfortable" recommending him. While I'm hesitant, because I know you've been through some bad stuff. Pat would be the only one at this dealership that I would recommend as I know him. Even so, I'd guess Simi is probably about 3 hours and change from Palm Desert. What about San Bernadino, Riverside etc?

    Re: clubs, maybe find the closest chapter and try to make e-mail contact? I know, this shouldn't be this hard, but.......

  • What would you think of my taking my LC to a Lexus dealership? I seem to remember reading in this forum in 2003 that the Lexus is almost identical to the Land Cruiser, the differences being mainly cosmetic. Am I recalling this accurately? There's a Lexus dealer in the Palm Springs area called Desert Lexus, although I've never heard anything, positive or negative, about their work.
  • They really are identical, however, without looking back at your earlier postings I'm forgetting your principle issues right now. Difference, depending on your would be adjustable suspension etc. I see nothing wrong with it, but since you have a "case" pending with Toyota, not sure how that might affect that. Perhaps stop by the Lex place and get acquainted and see if they can offer suggestions? I always took my mother's Lexus to my Toyota guys for stuff I didn't want to do. But, that's another story =)

    What about an independent garage that works on foreign cars? Do you have any friends with Toyotas that might have had some good experiences?
Sign In or Register to comment.