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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Suspension and Ride



  • peaeyepeaeye Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Z71 and would like to level the front end. It looks like around 2.5 inches. A 4x4 shop told me you can get some lift from your torsion bars if they aren’t maxed out. Mine are. I asked about the torsion key lift kits and the guy there didn’t recommend them, he said they would cause other front end problems. This shop had no solution for me. This web site seems to contradict what they said,
    I’m not sure what I will do. Good luck to you. K
  • I just found your post about the 07 classic LS2 truck. I have the same problem. It beats me to death on dirt roads and around fields. Did you find a way to a softer ride? Thank you.
  • Has anyone had any experience leveling the front end of a 2007 Sierra or Silverado? From what I can tell there are two options to do this: Buy a leveling kit or tighten the torsion bars. Anyone ever done either one of these? Are there pros/cons to each? Experiences?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    whether you're planning to raise the front or lower the back. Cheapest way is the torsion bar plus the cost of an alignment though you may not be happy with the ride. One thing with the torsion bar method. It doesn't cost much to undo it should you be unhappy.
  • Well if you have a 2007 CLASSIC version of the Sierra or Silverado, then yes you could crank up the torsion bars. I would advise against this on its own because it will put tremendous stress on the ball joints and pit arm and will lead to premature suspension wear. However, there is a company that has a leveling kit that solves these problems. You can read about the kit here:

    Now if you have a new body style 2007 Silverado or Sierra, then there are no more torsion bars. They ditched the torsion bars in favor of coil over shock setup. There are several companies that make a spacer type of leveling kit. I think REVTEK makes one, I think most of the suspension companies make em. I would check out the Rancho one here:
  • I am going to put a 3" bodly lift, so i can fit 35's. Am i correct for only puting a body lift on?
    Also would like suggestions on an air intake. thinking a cold air intake system.
    Also will take any other suggestions that people have done to there toys.
  • Well I would just go with a 6 inch suspension lift and forget the body lift all together. Below are some links that may help you. :shades:

    This is to a youtube video where the guy has installed a Fabtech 6 inch suspension lift and 35's.
  • I'd like to level out the front end. I pull a 10,000 lb trailer so I can't go too high unless I had something to keep the rear from sagging from the trailer. Is there a shock absorber that would give me some lift or will turning up the torsion bars be safe to do. I'm not into the high lift big tire thing but it would be nice to level it out with a safe method that wasn't costly. 1" to 2" would be nice. Thanks
  • Well it depends what vehicle you have but I'm assuming its a '99-'06 Silverado/Sierra. cranking up the torsion bars alone will leave you with crappy ride quality and the suspension parts will wear faster, especially if you tow on a regular basis. If you want to level it, do it right. Check out this company and their kit:
  • I have a 2006 Silverado Crew Cab 1/2 ton 2WD. It has the stock suspension, shocks and tires on it. It is very bouncy from the day I bought it new. It does fine on smoth surfaces (what doesn't), but when I hit the freeway with concret slab sections, the truck bounces like a bronco at any speeds over 45mph, almost making the passengers sick to their stomach.

    One thing I can add is that I have driven over this stretch of freeway for over 30 years in different cars and trucks, including Dodge, Ford, Chevy, and Toyota trucks, some with 3/4 tons and old solid front axels.

    No other truck has bounced this bad over the same concrete slabs. I do know that the wheel base is an issue, but I have had a long bed Ford F150 which is close to the same lenght as my Chevy Crew cab and never experienced such a bouncy ride.

    On top of all this, I was lead to believe Chevy's ruled in ride comfort my whole life and this is my first new truck I have ever owned, so I have been very dissapointed with my purchase.

    Does anybody have any ideas or helpfull solutions to fixing this? I'm not expecting a glass smooth ride, I do expect a somewhat rough ride over the concrete slabs, but not as bad as I am experiencing. Should I replace the shocks? I have read that Bilstien shooks are good shocks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    HD Bilsteins are a good start. Do you by chance have those crappy General tires? If so they contribute substantially to the bounce due to thin sidewalls which create a balloon effect. You may want to change those out to some Michelin LTX M/S. Between the two you will notice a substantial change in the way the truck drives.
  • Thannks obyone, I didn't realize the stock General tires would make a difference. Figures that GM would cut such corners in production and put a terrible tire on it's product.

    I will have to buy some new tires for it. Do you or anybody have an alternative to the Michelin LTX M/S tires mentioned here? I'm trying to keep the budget of tires closer to $100 a piece, and would like to know if other brands offer stronger sidewalls.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    You could try doing a search on tirerack for your size and check the survey results as to which tires did better than others and their pricing.
  • I went to the site. The Continentals got high rankings on every category. They don't look like an aggressive or sporty tire, but if they are good tires then it's worth it. Anybody here have an luck with the Continentals?

    Oh, and anybody with info on the strength of the sidewall on the Continentals? Stronger than the stock Generals?
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    Thor3074, You aren't alone with a rough riding Silverado. I have an '07 2WD Ext. cab. The test drive when I bought was on smooth roads. The window sticker said it had "solid smooth ride suspension" It's the bounciest rough rideing truck I have ever had. And yes it has 17" General tires. Replacing the shocks and tires that obyone recommeded would have to cost at least $700 just to get a better ride for what I thought I was buying in the first place. I don't think I'll have this truck very long.
  • Geeze, I want to get rid of my truck too. I thought Chevy was going to make me cool. Now I have no teeth from the bouncy ride. I want the new Tundra. The only problem is that I bought the Chevy new, and they took me to the cleaner, because I obviously don't know how to negotiate and am a sucker. If anybody has any beach front property to sell in Arizona, I'm a taker.

    If you bought a truck new, and paid a little over invoice, and paid for the Premium Warranty, and paid all them taxes, at what point is it financially right to sell the truck and take a hit on all that money I'll be loosing? I know I'll loose a lot as it is, but how can I minimze my loss?
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    I guess I got what I paid for; '07 Silverado Ext Cab W/T for less than 18k. It's bouncy but nothing like the Tundra. When I can't take it any longer I'll be getting beter shocks and tires. I also noticed that my previous truck, a '95 reg. cab W/T had four leaf springs. This '07 only has three. BTW, Thanks for attaching the clip. What about Dodge?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Did you know on the 99-03 1500s had only two leaf springs?

    Not sure on the Dodges as the only experience I've had are a couple of rentals and the only thing I remember was the dismal gas mileage. Course that couldve improved by now.

    One thing interesting that I noticed was that I test drove all the trucks before buying my last one. The silverado/sierra had the best ride of them all. Unfortunately couldnt come to an agreement with the dealers on pricing forcing me to buy something else. Course one of the items on the table was that the dealer replace those crappy Generals before I would take delivery.
  • I asked the dealer if they would replace the tires and wheels with the 20's, and they said no.

    I should have walked away.
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    I never thought of negotiating tires. I was too much into haggling the price. I wonder if I could trade-in these tires for a set of Michelins? They have 4000 miles on them.
    I had an '00 Silverado ext. cab that I bought new but didn't keep it long. GM bought it back under the Lemon Law. The "vibration problem".
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    a vibration problem. We had gone through 3 sets of General tires with the last set losing chuncks of rubber as I drove. General had agreed to replace sets of 4 at a time with shipping costs ($270) exceeding the value of the tires ($25 ea. wholesale).

    When the fourth set shipped I asked the service manager if it would be possible to replace them with Michelins. He asked the zone rep and got approval with me paying the difference (wholesale). Thats when I found out the value of the General tires as it cost me close to $400 to do the swap.

    When the service advisor was rolling the Generals then the Michelins around the shop he had commented the the Generals weighed less than half of the Michelins and when pressing down on the Generals there was a great amount of flex in the sidewalls.

    BTW, the vibration problem was solved with a TSB issued by the general to replace the rack and pinion and welding part of the rack to the frame for additional support. Lo and behold the vibrations were gone.

    You might get a little bit for those Generals at a Michelin dealership or try to sell them on your own. Regardless they are not worth much even as new. I saw my equivalent on sale at for $35 each. That wasn't funny. Course with the Chinese driving up oil costs, tire costs have risen though the quality hasn't. You could check tirerack and see what they are worth.
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    I took the '00 Silverado ext. cab that I had with the vibration in for repair attempts eight different times to different dealers. The first thing they all did was balance the tires. Finally they replaced one tire (Goodyear Wrangler) that failed a load force test. That made no difference, They even replaced the drive shafts. By then it was too late. I called a lemon law lawyer in Chicago and a few months later no more vibration and no more truck. The '07 ext. cab W/T I have now has a vibration that I can feel in the gas pedal and and steering wheel when I gradually accelerate. There is also a "shudder" I can feel when it shifts at around 45mph. Is an internet site where I can find out if this is a common problem or a TSB? Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    obyone, I couldn't find anything there about the steering wheel vibration. I took the truck to the dealer and explained the problem. Just like I thought they didn't even test drive it, just handed me a GM bulletin about something called a ECCC. To make it short, the said it was normal. The steering wheel and gas pedal vibrates when the truck shifts at 45mph. If you want I could email you a copy of the bulletin, it's all mumbo jumbo to me.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    My email address is in my profile.
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