Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

I have a 2001 alero with about 94,000 miles on it. It turns over just fine and all the electrical works fine (radio comes on, headlights, etc when the key is turned). However, the car will not actually start, or if it does it only stays on for a couple seconds. Any ideas? My fiance changed the fuel pump, thinking that was the problem, but obviously it was not since the car still will not start. And no, it is not out of gas...there is about a quarter of a tank in there.
Anyone with similar experiences?
Begin at the Beginning: How To Diagnose Problems If Your Car Won't Start (from Auto Repair For Dummies)
Anyone with similar experiences?
Begin at the Beginning: How To Diagnose Problems If Your Car Won't Start (from Auto Repair For Dummies)
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Someone today threw out the possibility of crankshaft position sensor. Any other ideas would be welcome.
Thanks
harrie
Rgd's
Ticked1 :mad:
Such a shame really!
Becky
good luck
I had it towed to the dealer the next day. Funny thing is the next day it started up. I just didn't want to take chances with being stranded two days in a row.
When I had the GM dealer look at it, the dealer said that no code was store. The dealer did say that it appears there is a sensor going bad in the front bearing assembly. However, that sensor has nothing to do with my car not starting.
So basically, if there could be any other reason that my car mysteriously wouldn't start, please let me know.
For at least a few years now - more likely 5 years or more, our 1999 V6 Alero has had problems restarting. Start up the car and drive for a half hour or more and then shut off the car. When you go to restart it (generally within an hour), the car will turn over and start but then quickly die unless you give it some gas. Once the car is in gear its fine (So we have taken to giving the car a little gas and then with the foot on the brake, putting it in gear). I have noticed that when the Alero on healthy initial starts will idle at about 1000RPM, while on these unhealthy restarts its under 800 RPM. This appeared to initially be a cold weather issue, but it quickly expanded to the warmer months.
This has been looked at by a few separate mechanics -both dealer and otherwise, but no success. Pretty much everything electrical has been replaced: battery, alternator, starter I believe, spark plugs and related assembly and there have been various fuel line flushes, governor assembly maintenance, etc. Results MAY be better for a few days, but back to the same issue after that.
I have read that gasket leaks that occurred on this model could cause some damage (we had one of those replaced under warranty in the first 2 or 3 years of ownership - prior to the occurrence of this restarting problem).
Also had the usual plethora of problems with the car - I'm on the third blower motor for the heating and A/C... and I'm down to two speeds on that, I'm on the third set of front hubs, another gasket replacement.... blah blah blah.
Anyway - hope someone can help!!!
Fuel pump should be checked. If it's not that then check for ignition spark.
Or it could be that the BCM needs to be reprogrammed so it will recognize the code. The GM dealers use a GM Tech 2 scan tool to do this. I would think that a person not wanting to spend the money to reprogram that BCM could bypass the alarm system all together but I havent got that far yet! If you look at the diameter of the wiring its very small and doesnt take much vibration to make a possible ground with it. The ignition switches are a bit pricy for this car $150.00 and if you change that out you still have to reprogram the BCM. Hope this helps.
With cold weather and a empty tank or near empty it could mean that you picked up some water out of the tank. It could have more water then you think. I use some of those fuel system additives that help get the water out of the system. Another thing I would verify before you put too much gasoline in that tank is how much fuel pressure you have. You can do that by getting a fuel pressure tester for about 40 dollars and it just screws onto the fuel rail, located on the passenger side of the car. When you crank it you will get a reading. It should be between 41 to about 46 psi. If the pressure is weak then i would be looking at the fuel pressure regulator valve. If it still wont go higher then the pump is weak. I know that on this 99 I am working on they already had to change out the fuel pump well before 100k. Look for loose connections,vacuum leaks. THe MAP sensor near the throttle valve plays a important part also in how it runs. Hope this helps.
A new problem has surfaced recently. I will start it, and it will start right up. But AFTER I let go of the key I get a loud, short, expensive sounding, metallic grinding noise.
Has anyone found out what this could be? I just know I am going to take it in for repairs and it will start right up then be told that nothing is wrong. Thanks.
1. PCV valve system for leaks
2. EGR system maybe its stuck open
3. Read the codes with a scanner there should be a clue there.
4. The MAP switch on the side of the intake could be providing a bad signal. Check the electric plug connections.
5. I would look at the sparkplug wires. I once had a rusted coil connection on the coil pack and it wouldnt provide a good spark to that cylinder, due to the factory not puting
a lubricant on the connection.
6. Take off the boot off the intake and clean the inside of the throttle intake area with carb cleaner. There are small holes there that can clog up or get covered.
The belt noise is a whole separate issue..idler pulley with bad bearings. Or the belt is slipping a bit due to it being worn. Or the water pump could be leaking a bit of antifreeze on the belt and causing it to slip a bit.
Hard Starting can be due to the IDLE Air Control, EGR valve stuck open, MAP sensor signal bad. Check the engine for codes that have triggered. IF the egr valve is stuck open a bit then it will cause exhaust air to be brought into the intake manifold of the engine basically the fuel mixture is too lean when that happens. Just to make sure check the connections on the battery. THey should be clean..its possible that the battery isnt supplying enough amps to the starter if the connections are dirty.
If you dont have that there could be a problem with the crankshaft sensor that sends a signal to the control module. If the module isnt getting reference pulse signals from the crankshaft sensor then it shuts the fuel pump off after 2 seconds. If there is no fuel pressure then check the fuel pump relay for voltage and then check the fuel pump fuse. Check the wiring at the tank going to the fuel pump if there isnt any voltage or if the fuse is burnt.
You should be able to hear the fuel pump engage when someone turns the key on by listening at the fuel filler tube. Check for spark at all the ignition wires after its verified that you are getting fuel to the fuel rail. It could be something simple like a loose connection that wasnt hooked up properly.
The GM dealers put out a Service Advisory that says that the lower intake manifold gaskets need to be replaced with new gaskets and the bolts torqued to new specs.. using new bolts with a threadlock applied. I am working on a V6 right now that has the gasket leaks..what happens is when the engine is cold there isnt any pressure in the system and as it warms up the pressure increases to say 15 psi.. if that gasket is leaking you could be burning water when it gets hot and then it will change the fuel ratio and you would have to give it more gas to keep it running. One easy way to see if its burning coolant is to remove the upstream O2 sensor. The engine has to be warm to remove that sensor more easily. If dexcool is being burned it will be covered witha chalky white substance. The engine I am working on has 113k. The intake gasket just started leaking enough to make it get hot about a month ago..the year of this car is a 99. Its probaly several problems..the water pump and a gasket leaking somewhere. The thermost gaskets go out also. That dex cool tends to deteriorate them. One thing on this car that is a pain is that if you have to remove the radiator you have to remove it from the bottom of the car and also discharge the ac system and pull the radiator/condesor/fans out as a unit.
Thanks,
Matt
i think it took about 10-15 minutes when i noticed the security light was gone. i restarted and it worked fine. for last 3 days it has worked fine now. though i am worried that it could happen again.
hjohio, have you experienced same issue again.
i've a feeling that passlock sensor is going but not sure.
any suggestions.
thx
Then decide if you want to have fixed or disabled.
why oldsmobile dont work on this problem.This is one the most stupid problems I had on a car, for the rest the car is ok, but the alarm is a big problem from olds. and never they do something about this.
harrie borger
he said to get it fixed before car is stranded. kind of scary.
any suggestions? thx, aa :confuse: