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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    $6000 to repair with $1700 in labor just for brake lines alone.

    That's nuts. You should check out an independent mechanic. Even with replacing with all stainless steel hardware it would be no where near that price. And while I've heard of some having brake line issues I have never heard of that kind of price to replace. Most of the people that were having problems was due to salt on the roads.
  • Hey there,

    Mine is a 2003, and yes mine is inside a garage all the time, I power washed the engine last week, and noticed many lines rusting and looking very ...(99K miles) old. Not sure WHY >> my truck is garaged 90% of the time. Looks like GM used sub standard steel lines from Vendor "D"...who used bad alloys.. cheepest supplier

    6k seems very steep but then again if you have to do all the lines your looking at 8-10hrs of work, not to mention all the bending/fitting, that is if they don't make a kit to replace.. old lines. I love my truck an not planning on trading her in, but these brake issues really rub me the wrong way..

    I have other posts here for the past few years with multiple break/brake posts

  • On the way home from the dealership my service brakes soon light came on. I called the dealership and was told it is probably a computer hick up!! I returned the next day 180 mile round trip. They cleared the code and sent me on my way. 20 miles later the message appeared again I went back. This time they looked at the brakes and had to take on O ring off of a new silverado on the lot to put on mine. The brakes are currently fine. I think the salesman held my satisfaction with my new truck higher than the safety of my Wife and I. "A COMPUTER HICK UP?"
  • We had the same grinding noise this week on our '04 Silverado 1500. Inner right rear pad was worn down metal to metal. The other 3 pads in great shape. Repair place had a copy of chevy bulletin 00-05-23-005B, dated May 27, 2003 explaining this problem affecting trucks from 1999-2004. Both GMC & Silverado half tons. Excessive wear to right inner pad caused by mud being slung from front to rear tire. Solution is to install mud flaps. Why were we not told of this need for mud flaps when we bought the vehicle (Dec of 2003, after bulletin was published) and why did Chevrolet decide not to install these mud flaps on all the new trucks as soon as they discovered the problem? Now we have had to pay for repairs that could have been avoided if the mud flaps had been there to protect us. I have called Chevrolet but they are giving me the run around and not much hope for reimbursement. There was a known design flaw in the vehicle, causing damage to the rear break and they do nothing? Negligence? I would say so...
  • ziggy63ziggy63 Posts: 2
    Wow- it's like deja vu all over again! I bought a '99 Sierra 1500 2wd extended cab new. I've now had it 9 years and 110,000 miles. The first time I was approaching a stop and hit a small bump the brakes went away while the ABS chattered. I complained to the dealer and got nowhere. I also posted on whatever Edmunds sites existed then and saw lots of other people with the same problem. I assumed GM had fixed it after '99, but apparently not. It happens every time under those conditions. I treat it like wheel lockup and take my foot off and immediately reapply the brakes. It's a workaround, but a major safety defect. It's probably time to pull the fuse.
    I've replaced my rotors twice and they need it again. My brake shop said the OEM stuff is junk, and the parking brake design is useless. Mine's been gone for years. I also had a brake line rot out before 100,000 miles, which I've never seen on any vehicle before. I remember the sales literature bragged about "aluminized" brake lines. That must have meant aluminum paint on the junkiest material they could find. It's criminal. I had it fixed, but now I don't trust the other lines. I need to keep the truck 2 more years. Where did your shop find the replacement hard lines? I'm considering stainless steel, but so far am only finding the braided flexible lines. GM should be held responsible for this. People have probably died already, but perhaps no one except we who own these trucks knows why.
  • HI Deja-vu, (ziggy)

    there are several on line dealers for break lines.. I have not replaced mine, but was researching for sure over the past 4-6 months.


    2) (<< seemed to have best inventory of prefab replacement)

    good luck
  • Thanks,TT. I had been to both those sites (saw them in Hemming's).
    Inline has nothing listed, Classic does, although I have to call to see if it's right, since the listing is vague. By the way, the URL for SSBC is gets you to the South Shore Baseball Club, which is a whole different matter. Did you do anything about the proportioning valve when you did your brakes? I'm tempted to follow your example. The new rotors and calipers are very pretty.
  • Hi Ziggy, thanks for the web correction I'Il will go back and change it... LOL,

    As far as the proportioning, no I did not changed anything, just the calipers, the setting was probably set up right from the factory, its just that the rear slider pins on the rear Calipers were rusted/frozen, (truck was 1.5 years old) and I felt that the RManufactured/rebuilt calipers might be the same as far as break response(very weak). So I just swapped the rear calipers and all the rotors on all 4 wheels. Also swapped the brake hoses for braided SS lines from Russel... very sweet response. Pedal feel is so solid my wife loves to drive the truck-she feels like shes in a nascar.. we both road in Florida

    This stuff was so easy to do I started wondering why GM just doesn't do something, I would gladly pay for an upgrade like this from the factory.. Brakes/tranny/engine/interior are the core of every vehicle

    And in the next 3-4 years when I trade or sell the beast, I will be looking for a anther BRAND... They seem very lazy on the marketing and customer service/response side. and With todays economy customer loyalty will be the difference between a job or no job. (GM or no GM)

    My dealer/sales guy knows everything I did, because I documented the work and gave several color copies packets of the documented work that the sales guy..he has been handing them out to some customers that can't get service to solve the issue...
  • I have TERRIBLE brakes on my truck and replaced the pads and rotors up front.
    What did you changed to get a solid feel on the pedal?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    he added stainless steel brakelines.
  • Hi Bob, (check out my other posts) I actually have photos on my profile

    Started where you are at back in 2004, I started to research and selected a few affordable components.

    I selected SSBC and their coated rotors, then i selected the the rear OEM replacement calipers (tri-piston), (that fit with OEM coated rotors and PADs)

    I replaced all Rotors and Pads, + rear calipers....then i also replaced the caliper hoses with Russel SSbrake lines...

    The Guys @ SSBC laughed at me and said i should also replace the front calipers, I did not.. saved 1500... and time. Not sure who is laughing hehehehe

    65K and the breaks are 10% used... i also used to commute and drive in Boston for the past 2 years. I also have a good bit more brake dust on the rear wheels... BTW the wheels i have are 17in Denali, wheels (much larger) . from a ebay that where take offs
  • #24 of 105
    2003 GMC Sierra 1500ext (5.3L) by ttaupier1
    May 05, 2007 (8:57 am)

    this was my first post here.....
  • I have 63,452 miles on my 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew cab. I have replaced the brakes pads, rotors and batter. The brake petal still gets hard to press on after a while and the brakes seem like they are sticking. I have talked to a few repair people and tried every thing they suggested. Has anyone had this problem and do you have any other suggestions.
  • Hey Fuson,

    sounds like a caliper issue, can they replace the calipers with rebuilt or new ones, if the calipers were not sliding on the guide pins they would,likely compress and then not release causing hard pedal and a lot of work to press and give a feel of sticking..., you could replace the guide pins and grease them...for both front and rear calipers

    or just replace the calipers with OEM after market, so you wont have to get larger wheels

    let us know what you find..
  • Hi All,

    I own a 2001 Silverado with 45K miles. Looks brand new on the outside and inside. The wife took the garbage down to the dumpster and complained she had to pump the brakes to stop because they when down to the floor. I pulled right front wheel off and saw the pads where in great shape. I noticed fluid under the drive side of the truck. Put my fingers in the fluid and determined it to be brake fluid. I look up next to the frame and saw all brake lines where rusted badly. This should not happened. I have had cars in the Chicago area with lots of salt and this has never happened! I not live in Missouri where winters are mild and salt use is a fraction of the Chicago area. GM has a problem here that needs to be fixed. I have been searching the net and many people with different GM models are having this same problem. Someone can get killed or seriously injured because of this! Time to go to war over this!

  • I urge everyone that has a GM truck with rusted brake lines to goto
    and file a complaint. Consumer Affairs will evaluate and see if a class action suite is in order. Make it happen complain now!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    While complaining is good, how does it help you now? Certainly you can't wait for results from Consumer Affairs or the NHTSA? I mean if it's leaking now what's a person to do?
  • we have a 2003 sierra 4x4, changed the front calipers and pads. now we can't seem to bleed them properly, why. we have done the front and now tried bleeding back to front, but still we have to push the brake pedal all the way down. back calipers and pads are good, didn't need to be changed. if it is air locked how do we get the air out? :mad:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    If you didn't change the calipers on the rear why would you have to bleed them? Aren't there seperate brake lines running to the front and to the rears?
  • I have a 2006 silerado 1500. It has 31K miles. Still under facotry warranty. I was feeling and hearing a terrible "grinding". I check the fronr drivers side and noticed gouges/engraving in the solid metal behind the rim. I am not very mechanical so unsure what everthing is. Anyway, I talked to a few people and they say a calliper may be sticking. The gouges were only on one side. I took it to dealer and they say its is due to normal wear. Anyone know that to be true. I the calliper is malfunction, caused brake pad to wear down to "metal on Metal." should warranty cover entire repair. Keep in mind, I am not hard on the brakes. If it was normal wear would both right and left side be equally worn? Or did a calliper problem on left side cause damage to brakes? Dealership says I now need new brakes and pads, not to mention tire rotation at a cost to me of $480.00 If that right or am I getting screwed? Should I fight with dealer to cover damages under warranty? Please give me mechanical advise on what to ask dealership about.... :cry:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    The dealer is blowing smoke. This repair should be covered under warranty as it appears that the caliper did indeed seize causing premature wear and the result being metal to metal. The brakes shouldn't be showing that type of wear at 31K miles unless something malfunctioned. The fact that the dealer said it was normal wear on the left while the right showed no signs of failure is an attempt to get you to spend your money to repair a warranty item.

    If I were you I'd take my truck to another Chevy dealer cause the one you're dealing with is full of it.
  • After the shudder stopped I got out and found the driver side rear tire dragging as we backed up .
    A closer look and we saw the calliper hanging off its mount.
    No bolt and the calliper mount was broken in 1/2.
    It looks like a casting flaw.
    I will check with GM Canada and report back.
    Does any one know how to pull the driver side axel out?
    The mount kit is $240.00 from Dealer.Thanks Debb.
  • Hello,I just need some advice on pulling the Driver side rear axel out.
  • OMG! I too have a 2006 Chevy 1500 w/36k miles. Recently we noticed a grinding type noise in the left front. We pulled the tire and could see gouges in the rotor. We took it to a brake shop thinking the pads just needed to be replaced and the rotors grinded down. The brake shop told us to take it back to the dealer that the left front rotor needed to be replaced and that it was a defect. He suspected that the caliper had been stuck and this is what caused the rotor to go bad so soon. I took it yesterday to the dealer, explained what the brake shop said. The service man told me that in all his 15 years of working for Chevrolet he has only had to replace calipers twice. They then charged me $40.00 to diagnos the problem, just to tell me that the calipers were fine and that i needed new brake pads and a new rotor on the left side. I asked him how this could happen to a 2 year old truck and he said "in town driving". I said well if that were the case, wouldn't the right one be the same. He said it was worn, but not as bad as the left. Anyway, $584.00 dollars later, we have it repaired. I still think its a Chevy defect and they just aren't admitting to it and that is why I went searching on the internet and found your comment. I just wish I had found it before I paid for the repairs!
  • feaglefeagle Posts: 3
    i wrote last year about this truck.. when the brakes got hot and melted the hub caps off and cheverlet replaced the booster and that fixed it....but now a year later and only 25,000 miles on it... i had the oil and tire rotation at a road side business and now the brakes are wore out .. im sure that it was from last year when it got so hot..."by the way chevy did not change the brakes on the truck last year" im wondering if chevy will pay for the new brakes?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    if they didn't replace them last year when the 'incident' occured, I seriously doubt that they will pay for it now.
  • joe197joe197 Posts: 1
    If we don,t complain, we will not get any help. I have just replaced all the brake lines on my 2002 GMC 1500 pickup with 110,000 miles. Its is not right that these lines are rusting out so quickly. As with the recall of the rotor sensors GM has made another desiscion to same a buck at our expense by using cheap tubing on the brake lines, with the sensor recall, GM refunded any money that had been spent on repairs prior to the recall. That is why you and all the rest of us should complain to consumer affairs. Who knows if there is a recall it might even save a life. Think, how many people out there have not a clue about the need to replace their lines, before failure.
  • c5nutc5nut Posts: 11
    Was wondering where you were with your brake problem. Your situation sounds very much like mine with my 2000. I haven't tried pulling the fuse yet, that's next. Do you know which components needed cleaning?
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