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Could really use some help on chasing down a "misfire" problem. I get check eng. light and engine skips or misfires. OBD code is P0356 (primary/secondary ignition failure cylinder 6). I have replaced coil, plugs, fuel pump, filter, cleaned injectors, and checked all wires. I have pulled out PCM to check connections and all to no avail. The only thing that seems to help is to NOT use regular unleaded gas. It seems that only premium will most of the time keep it from misfiring which makes no sense. I see at least two of you have had similar problem. Any solutions found? Any new suggestions ??? Thanks!
Found one of the discussions but the link to the instructions does not work anymore
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=1707
Here are instructions for replacemnt on a Honda Passport http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1abjz-i-need-to-replace-the-transmission-ran- ge-sensor-in-my
About the only other things I really remember is that placement is critical. If you remove to clean or replace, it must be installed back in the same location. If it installed otherwise, the position indication can be off, ie. the shifter is in D but the indicators show it is in R.
Yes...inconsistent p,r,n,d,l lights are an indication this might be the issue.
Good luck
Bill '00 Trooper LS
when i turn the key it chuggs but never turns over,
the timing isnt out, their is spark in all cylinders, i just cant figure out why it wont
turn over, any suggestions would be totally helpful... i dont knew what else to check
when I turn the key trying to start the engine and battery lights come on and then after a few seconds the trans light starts to flash aswell,
the battery isnt flat, the fuses are fine, the car was running before i stripped it (just badly) and now im lost... please help
Is it possible just to bypass the heater core/heater? Perhaps create a loop at the end of the heater hoses back unto themselves. I'm in southern California, and other than blowing fog off my window, I never use my heater.
If not, is there easier way to change the core other than removing all the instrument panels and evaporator to get to the core?
Thanks
And after you check the fuse and if it is good then check the relay click on the link or copy and paste to your web browser:http://www.ehow.com/how_4596906_test-car-relay.html
hope this is helpful
Thanks
Bob
Engine recently rebuilt. Replaced rocker arm shaft assy's (used).
Engine knocks from head, driver's side only, poor fuel economy, 8 mpg.
Reading thru the forum, the correct plan of attack is:
1. Change the oil, 5-30 w as the manufacurer suggests.
2. Check the timing belt tensioner and the timing belt to be sure is has not slipped a tooth on the driver's side.
3. Replace rocker arm shaft assy's on driver's side.
Questions:
1. If the tensionser is bad, would it slip a tooth on the driver's side first?
2. Anyone have a good source for NEW rocker arm shaft assy's. Is it typically the exhaust or intake? Are they intercangebale, intake/exhaust/driver's/passenger's?
3. The forum indicates that the valve clatter is not a performance or mileage issue, but valve clatter does not explain the poor fuel economy...
THX for any info!!!
It looks to me like maybe I can remove the back of the housing, and then maybe tap it out from the inside. But I've never been inside a differential before... Is something going to fall out (other than fluid) when I open the housing? Will I be able to see/reach the sensor plug, or is there too much else inside?
Thanks
basically the same for an L4 or V6
1.Position a drain pan under the power steering pump.
2.Tag and disconnect the hoses from the pump.
3.Remove the drive belt from the pulley.
4.Install a suitable puller tool onto the power steering pump pulley, and remove the pulley.
5.Remove the power steering pump-to-bracket bolts and, if installed, the rear brace, then remove the pump.
To install:
6.Position the pump to the vehicle and secure using the retaining bolts and, if equipped, the rear brace.
7.Use a pulley installer to press the drive pulley onto the power steering pump. Check that the pulley is flush within 0.010 in. (0.25mm) of the shaft end.
8.Install the drive belt and adjust the tension (as applicable).
NOTE: Be sure to secure any hoses which may get in the way or rub other components.
9.Connect the feed and return hoses to the pump.
10.Properly refill and bleed the power steering system.
11.Test drive the vehicle.
Steering gear and components
1.Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
2.Place a suitable drain pan under the power steering gear.
3.Tag and disconnect the feed and return hoses from the steering gear. Immediately cap or plug the openings to prevent system contamination or excessive fluid loss.
NOTE: Be sure to plug the pressure hoses and the openings of the power steering pump to keep dirt out of the system.
4.If equipped, remove the intermediate shaft lower coupling shield.
5.Remove the intermediate shaft-to-steering gear bolt. Matchmark the intermediate shaft-to-power steering gear and separate the shaft from the gear.
6.Matchmark and remove the Pitman arm from the gear Pitman shaft.
7.Remove the power steering gear-to-frame bolts and washers, then carefully remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
To install:
8.Position the steering gear to the vehicle and secure the retainer bolts finger-tight. If necessary, align and install the Pitman arm to the shaft at this time.
9.Tighten the power steering gear-to-frame bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
10.Align and install the intermediate shaft to the power steering, then secure using the pinch bolt.
11.If equipped, install the shield over the intermediate shaft lower coupling.
12.Remove the caps, then connect the feed and return hoses to the power steering gear. Refill the pump reservoir.
13.Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
14.Properly bleed the power steering system.
15.Road test the vehicle.