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Subaru Forester Transmission Questions
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At first, I also thought maybe it was piston slap. But it doesn't make sense to me that the vehicle needs to be in motion to hear it. I would think if it was piston slap, that I would hear it while standing still and reving the engine while cold. It only happens between a very specific speed range and RPM. The engine idles smooth and quiet, even after a cold start first thing in the morning (I'm in PA, and it's still cold here right now).
I could be wrong, but my gut feeling is that it's not the piston slap problem.
If it were a CV joint problem or bearing problem, does it make sense that shifting into Neutral makes the noise go away? Is this because I am just coasting and no longer delivering torque to the wheels?
Is it common to have a faulty CV joint or bad wheel bearing right off the showroom floor? The car has less than 200 miles on it!
I agree that a wheel bearing tends to be a "whirring" noise to start. Seems strange to me though that you would hear a CV while driving straight ahead. The sound happening while turning one direction only, though, that is a classic symptom... until it gets very bad, anyway!
Very rare to have a problem like that "fresh off the showroom floor," but there are ALWAYS some defective parts to leave every assembly line. Always.
Piston slap is a distinct tick-tick-ticking, which sounds like it comes from the passenger rear part of the engine compartment underneath.
Thanks very much for the info. It could very well be piston slap that I am hearing. The car is still very new to me, so I'll need a few more hours behind the wheel to help me understand what I am hearing.
I've gotten some great information from all of you here. I'm going to look at and try some things over the next couple of weeks. I'll report back and let all of you know what I find out.
Thanks again for everyone that contributed ideas. It's very much appreciated!
I still need to make the service appointment, hopefully next week. My work schedule is killing me right now, and I just don't have time to take it in for service this week.
I've just about 100% ruled out piston slap. I'm getting really good at hearing the noise now, and can make it come and go at will. It's definitely tied to the various lateral G force and weight distribution on the car. When going over a bump, making the car light on the suspension, the noise gets louder just like when I make a sudden left hand swerve. If I hit a dip in the road, making the car crouch down heavier on the suspension, the noise goes away like when I make a right hand swerve. It's got something to do with the weight distribution and the G forces exerted on whatever is making this noise.
I'll report back here for sure with whatever results I get from the service department at the dealer. If you find an answer before I do, please post back here as well.
(2001 Forester S, autotranny.)
Just loud clicks around the base of the steering wheel column when I pushed the thumb depress button on the shifter nob.
Finally, after many tries, the shifter shifted.
I called a few area dealer service desks.
I was told that it could be a one-time solenoid issue; a dying solenoid in which I would never be able to shift out of park; a possible brake light issue that would cause such a meltdown in shiftability...
Anyway, before I have it checked out tomorrow (assuming I can get the car rolling) I thought I would check it out for your opinions here.
1998 was the DOHC engine. 1999 and 2000 were both SOHC, so same drivetrain.
In fact I think the auto trans was the same for all those years. I'm not certain, though.
Can you tell me if there's something preventing the car going into gear. Note the car was going into gear before I changed the oil.
Complete AT electronics changed.
Once you have it in gear, it works fine. But whenever you want to shift it from any gear into drive, you have to go through this proceedure.
What I want to know is what might be causing this? I didn't spend anything on the car, so I could probably afford to fix it if it isn't a transmission replacement or anything, but I'd love to have some idea what I might be dealing with. Thanks.
My mechanic says that it would be cheaper for him to simply find a used transmission and put that into my car than to rebuild mine. So that's what I have him looking for. I sure hope he doesn't find one until after Christmas. LOL!
So you say this has happened with other foresters of the same vintage? That IS interesting! I've been driving the car for a while and find that it drops into drive with almost no hesitation when it's cold but if I've been driving for a while and try and get it to go, it takes a long time or a bit of gas to convince it to drift into drive. I've never not been able to make it go, but I don't think I'd consider this vehicle if I was looking for a getaway car. LOL!
With the money I saved by getting this car, a new (to me) transmission isn't out of the question, but if this problem is common in this make and model, I might find the same issue in another one. Very interesting to know. Thank you!
The colder weather makes the noise more annoying that in the summer when it's warmer. Whatever it is must contract in the cold weather and rattle/vibrate more. The wheels have been rotated, but the noise hasn't changed location or amplitude, so I think I can rule out any sort of tire noise.
Has anyone else (especially Ksych that also had this issue) had a similar noise that they pinpointed and resolved yet? Still looking for answers
1. It clicks.
2. It increases with speed.
3, It worsens under load.
4. It goes away when shifted to neutral to remove the load.
5. It changes when steered from side to side.
I was looking at Foresters last month and test drove a used '06 manual with 11K miles at the dealer, It was an extended solo 4-hour test drive, after which I filled the tank for $35 out of appreciation. It drove perfectly -- I did not notice any problems at all.
Compared to say my 1990 240sx wich is RWD, I'd say I have to put in about 300 RPM higher and let out the clutch more gently not to stall it.
I bought an 07 forester 2.5 x last march.At around 1000 miles i noticed a bad wheel noise vibration while accelerating ,going around corners ,up hills and even on the freeway driving straight ahead!I took it to the dealer asap,they said it was tire noise,false..then they changed three wheel bearings!!! that didnt work either! then they changed the transmission! gave the car back to me and said it was fixed..as soon as i got a few hundred feet down the road the damn noise was back! I went for a ride with the subaru rep,he heard nothing!ha ha haww! after talking with customer service i took the car to another dealer and they replaced trhe same bearing that the previous dealer replaced 5000 miles before,that didnt work either!!
This car and subaru have caused me nothing but misery,i hate them with every drop of blood in my veins! i am taking these turkeys to court! BTW, i said it sounded like a front axle shaft from the vert beggining but they still ignore that possibility...Good luck with yours,i will never own another subaru ever! i cant wait to go to court..
My local mechanic had been unable to determine the cause but assumed it just needed lubrication in the pedal linkage, which did sometimes seem to help. But recently I took the car into the dealer for a strut replacement and asked them to look at the clutch issue too.
They said it was the throwout bearing causing the noise, and that it would still be covered under the powertrain warranty. Also said it was not a safety or mechanical issue. And, it sounds like they'll need to drop the transmission in order to make the repair.
Anyone have opinon on whether this is worth doing? On the one hand, since it's under warranty still, it seems a good idea to have it fixed now and avoid any problems later on down the road. On the other, I'm reluctant to have them take apart the transmission to fix something that - at this point - is just an annoying noise.
Thanks for any info.
Unless there are model-year-specific transmission maps in the control unit, you could likely swap the transmission with one from a different year and lessen your chances of a recurring problem.
Both of the dealers that worked on the car failed...also the car is a rattle trap..five repairs were made on the hatchback alone,the dash board vibrates,the glove compartment latch ticks and makes funny noises..the car feels unstable at freeway speeds (two non subaru mechs drove the car and described it as (squirrelly) it doesnt feel safe to say the least..
The throwout bearing is in the clutch housing outside the transmission, but the transmission must be removed to get at it. NOT taken apart.
The throwout bearing is going bad, and must be replaced eventually. No point waiting to see if it holds up until after the warranty expires.
Is it true that it is not a safety issue? What would happen when it gives out?
Was it perfect when you bought it, then it just fell apart? Doesn't make sense to me. :confuse:
You can see that it is not a safety issue.
The bearing is slowly giving out, making a noise now, then perhaps eventually seizing up and making such a bad noise and feeling that you cannot use the clutch pedal.
Meanwhile, you are having plenty of time to talk the to the dealer about it, and discuss it online. You have the choice of acting or not.
If you continue to do nothing, no bodily harm would happen to you. Safety issues are usually framed in terms of harm.