Mercedes 380--450--560 SLs

master_axe

Hmmm...
alright, and how much would you want for both?

panza

Sorry, sold.

soho600

Hi - I am considering purchasing a 1984 380 SL. It is not in perfect shape cosmetically but looks good and has no structural problems. It has been regularly maintained and runs well, and has 166,500 miles. I know from reading the posts here that the mileage is pretty high - the seller is asking 6900 - is this 380 SL worth taking a chance on, or should I just go for a 560? Thanks for your advice!

Mr_Shiftright

it's an okay car, at least the 1984 model is (got rid of the timing chain problem in 1984). Biggest downside is a lack of power, with only about 155HP pushing a pretty heavy car--in spite of MB's efforts to lighten the SL with this model.

So if you don't mind it being a bit of a slug on acceleration, and if it passes its inspection with flying colors, the price seems fair enough. I'm not sure what you mean by the cosmetic problems but if they are substantial (bad paint, ripped upholstery, bad soft top), these are all very expensive to make right and you'd want to lower your price considerably. You never want to buy an SL as a "fixer-upper". There is no light at the end of that tunnel.

The 560SL is far superior but also far superior in price---up to 3X the value. I'd say the 560SL is an everyday car whereas the 380SL is more "take the kids for ice cream on Sunday" kind of car---also a nice thing to have.

Be sure to play with all the knobs and switches, as the mechanics may not do that

soho600

Thank you - your information was very helpful!

panza

Anyone know the procedure to remove the instrument cluster from a '70's 450SL?
Need to replace the bulbs.

36olds

Guys: crawling under the car it appears that the noise is coming from the Torque compensator linkage (bar bell shaped link that the rubber grommets are long gone). Is this the same as a STABILIZER LINK
Torsion Bar to Rear Axle? I am having a tough time identifying it in aftermarket parts sites. Thanks for any help you can give me, I'm a novice at German cars.

Mike

Mr_Shiftright

can you see it here?

http://www.budsbenz.com/data/catalog/300-rearaxle_drshaft-lg.gif

hvan3

Hello, I am a new owner of a beautiful brown 1982 380SL. I purchased the vehicle with 114k miles at an estate auction. Luckily, the previous owner had complete service record through 80K miles. This includes the timing chain replacement. Unfortunately, I have no service records for miles 80K to 114K.

This car run "great".....thanks to my buddy who helped to fine tuned the car for me.

The first thing I"ve noticed when I drove it off the lot is the steering slack. There is so much "free play" in either directions (about 1-2") when turning the wheel left and right.

Does anyone who what could cause this? I was told that it may be the coupler that need replacement. Has anyone ever had this serviced in the past? If so, is this something that is DIY? Can the part be easily removed from underneath the vehicle?

Mr. Shiftright, I was wondering if you can also send me the parts drawing (schematic) for the steering column? It would be nice to see what components are included in the steering column. TIA!

Mr_Shiftright

Here you go!

http://www.budsbenz.com/catalog/300/front-suspension-steering

fintail

If it is anything like my fintail (and I believe these steering systems are not very different), you probably have a worn out steering bushing - cheap part but there is some work involved to get to it. I had this problem, the part is a plastic/nylon ring.

hvan3

How do I access this plastic/nylong ring? Is it from the underneath of the vehicle or from the driver side firewall? Do I have to remove the steering wheel? Any other specific details would be appreciated.

Thanks

fintail

It's under the hood near the front suspension I believe. I didn't do the work myself as when I had my car fixed I was in school and didn't have a proper garage to do such a repair (and I wouldn't have wanted to anyway...it was a dirty mess). I had this done at the same time I had the steering box seals replaced.

hantla

I have a1976 450 sl. The car was in pieces when I got it. I have rebuilt it and now I need a Mechanic to do the final tune. i have just moved to KC. Does anyone know a good mechanic that knows the mechanical fuel injection in KC.?

jayg

I'm sure this question has been asked many times but....

Looking for a car to leave in Fl. and drive just a few months a year. Any advice which year is best for a 560SL convertible?

Thanks

fintail

They were only sold 1986-89, so there's not much variety. I am not an expert on 107s, but I can't think of any difference between those years....maybe a few color choices or something. The final year cars seem to be the most desired, but they are all still slowly depreciating. I'd go for the nicest example you can afford.

Mr_Shiftright

This is not the best choice of a car to leave sitting around, is my point of view. They are kind of too old to be used in that manner I think. For occasional top-down use, you might consider a car that is less demanding, and simpler and cheaper to repair if it "goes to sleep" on you when you aren't there.

Or if not that alternative, then a more modern car that is more tolerant of occasional use---early versions of the Boxster and SLK are getting pretty cheap, same price range as a 560SL or less. Or a BMW 3 series convertible.

For some reason, Benzes and Porsches really hate to be abandoned for months at a time.

texases

I was wondering about that, and in Fl the heat during the summer would do it no favors. Not that it would fit the profile, but you could get a great late model Miata for 560SL money, and you'd avoid the plastic rear window (one of my pet peeves). But it profile is an issue, your 3er convertible might fit the bill, or the SLK.

Mr_Shiftright

You could buy a near-new Miata for that money.

I dunno, old German cars get cranky sitting in the dark all alone.

jayg

Thanks guys. I'm probably not going to buy a miata but I'll look at the SLK and others. I was hoping to fit 2 sets of clubs in the trunk. Not sure an SLK or Boxster will fit the bill.

Thanks for the advice, too bad, I like the looks of the 560.

-Jay

fintail

I don't know if you care for the looks, but earlier CLK (W208) convertibles are also coming down to that price range, too.

chaup

I live in Los Angeles. I have a 1975 450 SL. The body is in good shape. I need a rebuilt engine, transmission, etc (the whole work). Anybody knows of a good restoration place in the Southern Calif area? Thanks.

texases

I'm no help on the rebuilds, but have you considered putting that amount of money towards a 560 SL? Might not be much more...

fintail

I agree...unless the car is some kind of sentimental object and is to be restored as a labor of love, one should consider moving on. 75-77 are considered to be pretty iffy years for 107s, too. 560SLs continue to depreciate and 15K is enough to get a genuinely nice car.

Mr_Shiftright

Hmmmm........You could buy a beautiful substitute 450SL for the price of the engine rebuild alone. That's going to cost you between $12,000 and $15,000 dollars, and then you still have the trans. to do.

raymondb

What are the meaning of the VDO # on a Instrument Cluster ??

Example 107 542 90 01 compaired to 107 542 12 57 is this for the rear end ratio ?? and how important is it for the over all performance and safety for the car ??

Mr_Shiftright

I think 57 is for a 2.88. Don't know about 01.

I think you can send these in to be recalibrated. Best thing is to put it in and then do a mile marker test so you know really what's what.

raymondb

Thank you, any idea what the 2nd two digit stand for . 12 and 90 . I find the VDO # on the front face of the Speedo under the MPH . They all start with 107 542 and then the next two set of numbers are always different??? I would like to know how much different is one over the other. 107 542 90 01 and 107 542 12 57 ??? is this a major change to the instrument cluster performances for fuel,oil,gas, antilock,sensors,etc....?
Thanks Again

Mr_Shiftright

That's a pretty esoteric question and I don't know.

toddbenson

Just got a 1982 SL 380 and it is missing the soft top. I was looking online and found a pretty wide range of prices and materials. Rather than doing this over in a couple of years, I thought I would throw it out on the forum and ask people who know. What should I be looking for in a soft top? Any suggestions on materials, price range, and also if there are any classic design things I should be aware of.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

fintail

Is it missing the top assembly too, or just the fabric? I'd imagine replacing the top structure wouldn't be cheap or easy.

I think the OEM stuff is made by a company called 'Haartz', it won't be the cheapest but you probably can't go wrong with it.

Mr_Shiftright

This link should show you the different textures for your top. You need a canvas, not a vinyl.

380SL tops

CAVEAT: I don't know this company from a hole in the wall so I'm not recommending them one way or the other. I did find them from a positive recommendation from a 380SL owner.

As for installation, some owners have claimed to do it themselves, but my recollection is that you need a fair amount of skill and patience to pull that off yourself.

I'd suggest the "German" canvas rather than the American stayfast, but both look fine, and if the convertible top fabric is a bit "off" in texture it certainly isn't going to affect the value of this particular type of car. What you DON'T want to do (not that you would) is put on a vinyl top, which I do see now and then.

toddbenson

We only need the fabric. The frame is there and appears to work well.

jodasa

Hello fellow MB owners. I am hoping to find an answer to my repair challange.
I have a 1989 560SL. The AC blows cold and the heater works fine. With the fan at full speed I get a wimpy blast of air and in low speed I can hardly feel it is blowing.
Any ideas as to where to start? Thanks in advance to any kind reply.

tinhorse34

I too own a 89 560SL. My A/C did not work when I bought the car. Last summer I had a complete new system (top to bottom) installed. It is working fairly well on high but it is pretty whimpy when I run the fan at low speed. After talking with several other owners and a couple of mechanics, I have come to understand that they were not much better when they came off the Assy Line.
The 560SL's A/C never really got the car nice and cold but only made it fairly comfortable. Since I live in the South East, I sure wish I could find a way to improve on my A/C's performance but after owning it a couple of years, I still haven't figured out a way to do it yet....lol If you ever do, let me know. I know that is not much help but it is the real deal on 560SL A/C's.

stanleysteamer

I have a 1981 380SL. I have installed a new fuel pump and filter. After running and then setting for a short time it seems that the system loses the fuel pressure. You have to run the starter for several seconds to regain pressure and then it will act like it is short of fuel. This will then clear up after the engine gets going. The new fuel pump has a new pressure control at the out-put end of the pump. Also the car will have a rough idle after it is idleing for awhile and then stop. I have a Chiltons which is not much help. Tried getting a shop and or owners manual from closest MB dealer, no luck. I just bought the car. Someone had vandalized the electric fuel pump cutting the lines and fuel lines.

Mr_Shiftright

There is no reason a Mercedes dealer cannot get you the repair manual for the fuel injection. They are simply unwilling to take the time to order it for you.

Probably the story you got when you bought the car was less than the whole truth I suspect. I think this is an injection problem so without repair books and a "diagnostic tree" to work with there's not much you can do. I suppose you might look around for a massive vacuum leak somewhere.

Mr_Shiftright

You might inquire within the various Mercedes clubs. I know that some clever people have improved the AC on the earlier 280SL models by opening up and re-directing the air flow, increasing fan speed and modifying the compressors.

burdawg

When I had problems with the fuel injection on the 1980 280 I had, I found that a good aftermarket manual on Bosch fuel injection systems was essential. I'm just about sure your 380 has a very similiar mechanical (with one or two electronic sensor inputs) system as the 280 had. If someone has futzed around with the calibration of the mechanical fuel distributor your in trouble.

stanleysteamer

Any ideas where to get an after market manual or on internet?

Mr_Shiftright

I would think you could order one from the Mercedes Classics Department in Germany. I see them on eBay occasionally, too.

burdawg

Go over to Amazon.com and search books on "mercedes benz fuel injection". Then have a look at the book by Charles Probst on Bosch fuel injection systems.

stanleysteamer

Thanks, I found it and will order a book.

stanleysteamer

On my 1981 380SL, It builds up pressue in the gas tank, should there be a vent or is this normal?

stanleysteamer

I ony got one key with my 1981 38SL, for the ign. Can the VIN# be used to have a key made for the door and trunk? The closest MB dealer is 165 miles and they are of no help.

Mr_Shiftright

Either a locksmith might be able to fashion one for you, but if there's not the skill level in your area, you'll have to install new key cylinders in the doors and trunk. Not a big deal.

freshairfiend

Does anyone out there know how to research the annual production volumes of a specific model? I'm interested in finding out how many 1985 280SL's were manufactured and if possible, how many of them made their way to North America. Any help in learning how to do this, or information about a website on the subject would be appreciated.

fintail

Here's a site with 107 production numbers ...yearly production numbers for some MB are hard to find as there can be a model year/calendar year problem. A 1985 car would be at the very end of 280SL production, so with production ramping up for the 300SL, it was probably smaller than others.

Unfortunately, as any 107 280SL in NA would be a private/grey market import, there won't be any really reliable info on how many made it to this continent.

Mr_Shiftright

2,838 were made in 1985 and fintail is correct, none were imported to the USA except a handful as "gray market" cars, and are thus probably less valuable in the USA from either their 450SL brethren, and certainly less valuable than their 280SL "pagoda" ancestors.

Still an interesting car to have if you get the 5-speed and you don't pay too much for it. I'd imagine parts would not be easy.

freshairfiend

My thanks to both Fintail and Mr Shiftright for the info. I am a little surprised though that you feel the Euro 280SL is less valuable/desirable than for instance a 450SL. My experience is that they tend to sell at a small premium over bot h450's and 380's, given similar condition etc.. Perhaps this is partly due to their appearance (neat Euro bumpers and square headlights) and their all round performance. Of course there aren't any 107's to my knowledge that are worth what the Pagodas seem to fetch, though for simple touring and open air enjoyment, I think the 107's are superior in many ways to their more illustrious forbears. Parts have never been a problem either as body parts are shared with most of the other 107's and the engine was used in various iterations of sedans that were readily available here.