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Ford Escort Electrical Problems



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Have you checked the resistance in the plug wires?
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • valkorvalkor Posts: 3
    no, my meter's dead but the wires are pretty new. If the wire on #1 is bad would that keep the rest from firing?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    No, they all run independently. I had a spark problem last year on my Escort (same vehicle/engine as yours) and thought for sure it was not the wires because they were not that old, but alas it was the wires and all was well after I replaced them.

    If your ignition coil is new, the only things that could cause the problem are bad wires/plugs or some fault in the electrical supplying the coil.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • valkorvalkor Posts: 3
    Is there an icm (ignition control module) ? What controls the electric to the coil?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    I would have to consult the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual on that one, but I think it is controlled directly by the ECM.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • kwhit76kwhit76 Posts: 1
    My 1999 Ford Escort will not turn at all. After jumping it will start. I had the battery and alternator checked and both were found to be normal. However, after sitting for a period of time there is no power to the car, no lights, key fob won't work, no radio, etc..., completely dead battery. Prior to the first time this happened, the cruise control stopped working. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Have you checked your battery when this happens (before being jumped) to verify that it is, indeed, dead? If it is, there is a load (short?) somewhere that is draining the battery when the car is off. If the battery is okay but the car is not receiving power, your problem is likely a bad ground.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • sparishsparish Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 ford escort van, No lights work at all including interior light, the dash lights do not work, oil light etc. The indicators work but not the hazard warning lights. Does anyone have any ideas please
  • sparishsparish Posts: 2
    did you ever find out what the problem was as i seem to have a similar problem.
  • tellesactellesac Posts: 1
    I have two what look like some kind of switches. It is a pair that sit right above the alternator and too the right. They are black and made by Mitsubishi. There are two air lines attached to each one of them. The air lines attach to the bottoms and to the sides of each. They slide into a brass bar that is bolted down to the manifold or near it. I need to find out what the hack these are because my parts guys here in Citrus Heights, California have no clue what they are. Both of my are old and now broken. Can anyone out there help me?
  • Does anyone know what could make a 99 escort not start? New battery and new alt.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    What exactly does it do? For example, does the engine crank but not fire, does it click, does it do nothing at all?
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • how was this problem resolved? i have a car with the same problem.
  • 98escort98escort Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    My 98 Escort wagon lost the park lights and dashboard illumination (awful driving at night) but the indicators, head lights all worked. I checked the fuses and eventually found the light switch (at the tip of the indicator stalk) was faulty. It can be GENTLY pulled or pried off the end of the stalk with a thin screw driver or a kitchen knife, and if you carefully pull on each of the 4 wires inside the stalk with fine pliers you should be able to get just enough slack in the wires to give you room to maneuver. You can then mark both the switch body and the contact/wires to identify which slot each belongs to before sliding the 4 spade contacts out of the switch body (the part you've just removed). You need to bend the 2 'spring copper' contacts slightly so they make stronger contact with their matching non-flexible (silver colored) contacts and clean all 4 contact points and smear with vaseline to help prevent corrosion. Turn the switch to the 'headlights on' position, then slide all 4 'spade contacts' back into their respective slots in the switch body (make sure they clip fully home into these slots). If you re-connect the -ve battery (earth) lead (should have been disconnected before you started) and test that the park lights are working, you can then push the light switch back onto the indicator stalk. My rear wipers weren't going either, but that was a separate fault - the 3 pin contact plate for the boot lid was dirty and a quick rub with fine sandpaper and a smear of vaseline (or grease) fixed it. Hope this is of some use to someone - none of the light switch info appeared in my Haynes manual - I guess they would normally replace the whole multiswitch unit (for the lights, indicators, wipers, the lot) which I imagine would cost a bit. I actually took my multiswitch unit to bits before discovering I didn't need to in order to get at the light switch. Before you open up the main multiswitch unit you need to push the red hazard warning button down (off position), otherwise it will go flying off and the spring and the 'L' shaped wire retaining clip will be launched into oblivion like mine were. I cleaned the hazard button contacts and greased them before reassembling the unit and reinstalling it - it works fine. WARNING: - Make sure the battery has been disconnected for at least 15 mins before you remove or install the airbag (or the yellow connector/plug on the back of it) when removing the steering wheel to access the main multiswitch unit, otherwise the airbag could be accidentally triggered!!
  • eric71eric71 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 ecort.Put new battery in.It ran fine for about 2 weeks.The other night while driving it.The car went dead.Today i put new termanals on jumped it ran it for a hour.Turned it off tried to start it and battery was dead.this was same problem i had before i changed the battery.Old battery was tested i was told it was no good thats why i got a new battery.It will crank after sitting but not enough to turn it over.Can anyone help me.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Sounds like you may have a bad ground connection. Have you checked the tightness of the ground connections, cables for wear, etc? Basically, it sounds like what is happening is that the car's battery has juice (have you checked it to determine voltage?), but the resistance in the cable(s) somewhere is too high to allow sufficient flow to the car's starter and other electrical components.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • eric71eric71 Posts: 3
    I'd like to say thank you.I changed the negative cable and the car starts fine now.The old cable at one point was almost broke in half.That must have been the problem.Again THANK YOU......
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Great! I'm glad you were able to discover and fix the problem!

    I have a '98 Escort and the leads like to corrode rather quickly. I have to clean them (negative lead especially) every couple of months or else it will occasionally do as you described. As long as the leads are clean, though, I have no problems with it. :sick:
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • eric71eric71 Posts: 3
    Well i spoke to soon.I changed negative cable and the car started fine for 3 days.I went to town yesterday.And it was dead no power!!!!Do you have any idea what i should look at now????
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    If you have access to a multi-meter, check the voltage on the battery to see if it is good! It should be ~12.6 volts with the car off. Also, check any connectors and connections to make sure they are tight, especially at the starter and the alternator.

    When you turn the car's ignition from the "off" position to "accessory," does the radio come on? Do you have lights? How about the "on" position?
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Sounds like the same problem I had. Check your fufes under the hood. I thiknk there are 5 or so. I think the 1 you will need to replace is a big blue one.
  • i 97 ford escort is doing the same thing now i replaced the battery and the battery terminal and the lines where to short so i bought new line and cut the multi-connector and wired it straight to the battery and when i hooked it up the main 100 amp fuse broke in the box next to the battery and the floor 10 fuse inside the car broke too.

    Did you find out what the reason for you problem was?
  • I have a 97 ford escort i changed the battery and the new battery fit but the pos and neg lines where too short so i cut them and brought extended lines with battery terminals on them already from parts store i hooked them up but on the pos side there was something connected to it that came off when i change it out so i cut it off the ran those wires to the pos side of the battery where they was from start so when i hooked the battery the main 100 amp fuse blew in the box by the battery and a fuse in car blew. whats causing this to happen?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Your 100A fuse blew?! Whatever you did, you caused a free-flowing electrical situation. Essentially, the negative and positive terminals on the battery are directly connected with no resistance to flow. The 100A blew (possibly not quick enough) to protect the rest of the car's circuitry.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • my heater dose it all the time it is a connector on you passenger side under the dash there are wires going into a clip that connect to another clip (both white clips)with wires the clip is the problem it dose not fasten tight anuff i have to keep pushing it together every so often
  • Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
    Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/Black
    Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
    Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
    Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
    Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
    Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
    Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
    Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
    Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
    Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
    Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange
    Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
    Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
    Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
    Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
    Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Blue
    Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red/Blue
    Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
    Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
  • My Escort runs great most of the time, but has an electrical glitch that will keep it from starting on occasion. Just like it has no starter. Just nothing. Then wait a few hours then maybe it will start. It doesn't matter if the car is warm or cold. Just will start one minute and not the next. Any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Tough to narrow it down at this point, but when you get "nothing," do you mean that in a literal sense? No interior dome light, no radio, absolutely nothing? Or, do you get those things, but no response from the starter?

    If the latter, it may simply be a connection issue, such as excess corrosion on the battery cable, a loose/dirty connection, etc. Try cleaning the negative terminal and cable connections, then reattach and try again. If that makes no difference, try tapping on your starter with a mallet or hammer a couple of times, then attempt to start......

    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • t0b1nt0b1n Posts: 3
    I have a 97 ford escort lx with a wiring harness attached to the Negative battery post. Something in that setup is draining the battery but without it the car wont start or run so any ideas how to fix this? I've charged the battery and it stays charged unless I reconnect that harness then it's drained dry. If I remove it while the car is running it dies.">

    My car got jumped a while back and things got connected backwards so had to replace the 100amp fuse and get a new battery. The harness issue and the Dead radio are the only unresolved issues, may be related some how?

    I'm including a picture image so you can see the harness I'm talking about, though the pic isn't of mine. It's just for identification.

    Thanks in advance for any time and replies.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,312
    Your short is likely due to melted wire sheathing, but *where* it is located may be the more difficult part of fixing it.

    How long does the battery take to drain out?
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
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