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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
For the gasoline crowd, discuss your engine issues here.

kcram - Pickups Host
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Comments

  • I have a 2000 Ford F-250 with a 5.4 liter engine. It gets very poor gas mileage and bogs down when you try to accelerate. I have had it looked at by a mechanic and I asked if it could be related to the catalytic converter or the fuel injector. They gave me a bid to repair other problems with the truck but did not mention either of those things. I recently had the mass air flow sensor replaced. Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions for me?
  • I have a 93 F-250 with a 460 cube engine. It was running fine till the other day I was on a trip towing a trailer, itstarted sputtering and I could hardly go up a hill, maybe 10 mph. I stopped and the rig would idle but would not rev up, shook bad and I thought my tranny was going out but it idled good, just when I tryed to accelerate it would cut out. I replaced the gas filter, which had diry gas come out the back side, and replaced the oxy senser, neither helped. I got it onto a trailer and hauled it home, itstarted fine to get on the trailer and off, but in my shope itstarted and then died, will not start now. Any ideas, there is pressure in the fuel rail, have switched tanks back and forth , makes no difference.
  • 2003, F350, 5.4ltr, auto., 140k miles. Fuel pump problem every 10k/15k miles. The fuel pump has been replaced 8 times, and ready for #9.

    The symptoms before it goes out are: Lose of power under a load, erratic shifting under a load, erratic engine operation (RPMs go up to (4k+) but vehicle speed goes down). If you let up on the accelerator, engine RPMs come back to normal area and as long as you don't put it under a load it will keep running. If you try to accelerate rapidly, it will almost quit running and continue to slow down.

    The strange part of this is that while this is happening I can put the truck in Neutral turn the key Off/ON and it will run normally for another 30 minutes or so. (I know this is an unsafe practice while moving but I'm getting very frustrated.)

    The 1st pump went out at 15k. Ford dealer replaced the first 3 stating "contaminated fuel" was the cause. The next 5 were done by private shops. They could not give a cause other that a bad pump and did not find contaminated fuel. They could not explain the Neutral Off/On temporary fix either.

    It has been suggested that a ground wire might be missing of loose, but I could not tell. At the next replacement I am going to have a ground wire installed from the tank to the frame. At this point it can't hurt.

    If anyone has had a similar experience or has any suggestions, all will be considered.
  • we have a 1991 F150 V8 5.0 and the sepentine belt keeps shreading we have already changed out the tension pulley twice. What could be causing the problem please help!
  • Have you checked to see that all of your other pulleys, e.g water pump, alternator, A/C, etc. are all turning freely? The shredded belts may only be a symptom of a different problem.
  • It was the catalatyic (sp) converter, plugged so tight the exhaust couldn't go out.
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Posts: 15
    I've a 2004 F150 bought new 50k miles same problem.Went back to dealer once they reprogrammed computer that was fine then the driveability problem came back.Dealer hasn't a clue.I tried the Hypertech programmer recently,truck kept stalling at stops so reprogrammed to stock.
    The truck is an excellent highway cruiser but around town where we drive the most not so good.As with any make if you get a good one you are lucky. ;) I am awaiting new Chevy redesign.No more Fords.
  • I just had my replaced on a '98. It took out the water pump and a few other things. My VERY good mechanic said it's just "one of those things" like a timing chain. You just don't know when they're going to go. He also said that the bolts down at the chrankshaft pully have a tendancey to losen over time because of the aluminum block and just snap when lose enough. 113000 miles. total cost to repair 275.00. Not losing sleep over it.
  • I have a 97 F150 & the EGR valve has been changed out twice and it still shows a problem with the EGR valve. I even checked the throttle body for plugging but it was clear except for a little build up on the wall. Any info would be greatly apprecated. Allan
  • jib71jib71 Posts: 2
  • jib71jib71 Posts: 2
    I have 97 Lariat and recently i noticed play in the throttle cable that i don't recall being there before. When i look at the gas pedal i see about 1 inch of play before the pedal actually begins to pull on the cable. Is it possbile for this cable to stretch? Is there an adjustment i am overlooking?. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Hi everybody, I've got a problem. I have a 94 Ford F150 with the 5.0. The truck has been sitting for a while and was just given to me (as long as I can make it run). Here's the problem. When the truck is started, idle is up around 1500 RPM, and it starts to settle down, once it hits about 800RPM it begins to backfire and the engine literaly jumps around in it's mounts (very bad misfire). I recently replaced spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap & rotor, and the car continues to behave in the same manner. One thing I've noticed is that the right bank (cylinders 1-4) is running extremely rich. I can tell for two reasons, when the spark plugs are pulled out, they are wet, black, and smell of gasoline, the right bank is more of a silvery "new" look. Also, if I let the truck run for a few minutes, give it some gas, the right catalyst begins to glow red.

    I really haven't a clue how to proceed. A friend of mine tested the fuel pressure and it appears acurate within the specifications (about 42 psi) while idling (even when it gets really rough). Any help or ideas is appreciated. Thanks.

    -Wil
  • Doesn't your truck have two Oxygen sensors? If so, then possibly the O2 sensor for the right bank of cyclinders is dead and it's now running open loop and sending the rwrong mixture into the cylinders. O2 sensor is located upstream from the catalyst. A replacement costs about $50

    Don't let the repair go too long, all the excess gas is now burning in the catalyst and it will eventually melt the substrate and plug it. Catalyst = $$$ repair.
  • I have a 93 F-150 with a 351. I am getting fuel pressure, and spark, but the injectors are not getting pulses. I used a noid lite and get nothing. What could cause this?
  • halesjshalesjs Posts: 3
    I have a 1988 F150 4.9 L straight-6 FI 190,000 miles
    The truck will not stay running I have to constantly pump the accelerator to get it to start the motor runs real rough then I hold the pedal ¼ down the motor smoothes out runs for 5 seconds then dies. It runs so rough than a vacuum gage moves from 1 to 10 hg will not hold steady and does climb to al most normal when motor smoothes out for the 5 seconds
    What could this be and or could you put me on the right track to finding out what to do.
    I cannot take it in to run codes on the motor until I can get it to start and run.
    I have replaced both fuel pumps, in-tank & frame rail plus fuel filter. In addition, made sure the intake air is not restricted. I also checked the exhaust it seems to be clear but did find the tube that runs from the EGR down to the exhaust is broke off at the exhaust pipe">
    Help
    Jerry
  • dcoverdcover Posts: 7
    Last vehicle I had with those symptoms, had a clogged catalytic converter. If you can pull the exhaust loose ahead of the converter you can easily test the theory.
  • halesjshalesjs Posts: 3
    Tanks for the info
    I separated the exhaust pipe and did not seem to help. I was also told to check and make sure I am not losing fuel pressure to the rear tank, will be checking this today, I'll let you all know what i find.
  • my 88 is doin the same thing. it will start up and about 10 minutes later it will die. and im trying to find out what it is. i also thinks its the fuel filter
  • halesjshalesjs Posts: 3
    It’s sounds like it could be your fuel filter, because when the motor shuts down you still have fuel pressure and this could slowly pass thru the filter, after a few minutes letting the motor restart till it runs out of fuel again.
    I still have not found the problem with this truck, I will be checking the computer this week, I am not getting a service engine light when it starts and this suggests that all sensors are working properly.
    :confuse:
  • Did you have an diagnostic run on this? There are several parts for this - EGR valve, EGR vacuum regulator (EVR), differential feedback pressure sensor, the PCM, EGR pipe and various vacuum and pressure lines. The diag test should have given codes for the specific part of the EGR system.
  • I had similar problem with my 87 f-150 6cyl 4x4. They said " catalytic,fuel pump, fuel filter etc etc." all this repair would have cost a fortune. It ran slightly better with new plugs and wires, so I pursued that line. I had the ignition module checked and it was fine. That only left the coil. I changed that and no more problems!
  • i have had this same problem...i replaced the egr valve twice and the sensor once, new fuel filter, new plugs wire..the works and still having the same problem i had a diagnostic run and it says insufficiant air flow.. and its been recomended to change the injectors but im not sure.
  • f150skef150ske Posts: 2
    I have very similiar problem. I have the 0403 "EGR excessive flow" problem. Have changed the DFPE sensor, EGR vavle, and EGR tube. Check engine ligth still stays on. Mechanic has check the EGR system and says it working ok, he says its the PCM. I don;t want to change a $400 PCM unless I know for sure what it is.
  • has your gas milage dropped? mines dropped from about 19 on the highway to about 14. and from 16 in town to 12.5
  • f150skef150ske Posts: 2
    My gas milaege has dropped slightly from 17 to about 15. I was wrong, I am actually getting the 0402 code, not the 0403. I am trying to figure out what could be wrong other then replacing the PCM as my mechanic wants to do. Can I replace a PCM by myself? I see that NAPA sells them.
  • breckriderbreckrider Posts: 2
  • breckriderbreckrider Posts: 2
    It's an 89 F250 7.5 8 cyl lariat package. When the engine is revved it sounds like there's some sort of whine like something spinning freely then the engine begins to lose power and there's a burning smell like hot metal on hot metal some some slight smoke. I couldn't tell for sure but it looked greyish. There's oil in it. WHen driving it on the road it very little power.

    Any clues? Any other information you need?
  • armstrongrarmstrongr Posts: 2
    hello i have a 1988 f150 6cyl. manuel , it will start up and run fine ,then after 10 min it cuts off . no spark!! wont start again till the next morning
  • armstrongrarmstrongr Posts: 2
    hello , i have been on this for a week and no responce , dosn't anyone have a clue , i have replaced ing. controller twice (side of distributer) and replaced coil , the only thing left that i can think of is the computer , but it is giving me no codes (maybe thats why i need to replace it ,, what do you'll think ???
  • f150lemmonf150lemmon Posts: 1
    I am hoping that someone can help me. I have a brand new F150, only 4k miles w/ engine overheating after just driving a few miles down the road. The truck has been towed to the dealership numerous of times. Now we have 4000 miles and the dealership has had the truck for the past THREE WEEKS and cannot figure out what the problem is. My trade in has already been sold and the dealership just now agreed to give me a rental. Is there anyone out there having this same problem? Please help!
  • backmanbackman Posts: 5
  • backmanbackman Posts: 5
    What is the intake,peleumin torque on v6 4.2 F150??in inch pounds??my intakes blew and i need the torque,my mech says he does not torque just tightens by hand .i dont like that idea,this engine has 130,000 is this a common problem?when will it happen again?? Thanks Rick in pa
  • I recently purchased my 1995 F150 with 4x4 5.0 automatic transmission. Ran great when I purchased, then began running rough and started dying after driving awhile. I thought the in-line fuel filter needed replacing, so I did. But, it didn't solve my problem. I later R&R spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor cap & ignition coil. Problem continued. Began having check engine error codes. Autozone said codes indicated EGR and vehicle speed sensor. So I replace those. Problem still exist. When you first start engine you can hear fuel pumps engaging in both fuel tanks. But, after engine warms it dies and won't restart and can no longer hear fuel pumps engaging. R&R fuel pump relay, still no help. Beginning to think it may be vehicle's EEC control module. Can someone PLEASE help. THANKS!!
  • volvostepvolvostep Posts: 1
    Any suggestions: The truck has a rebuilt 302 with a ho cam only thing not stock as i found it. When i use it around town plowing or pulling my 2 harley trailer its fine no codes. But when i try to go up hills serious pulling the engine light comes on and it starts missing then it goes off and couple seconds later it has power again. Ran computer codes and it had 172,173 no 1 bank rich and lean codes. Also when pulling the air conditioning vent switches from vent to defrost. has a new mass air,computer,could it have clogged the cat converter? Only has one o2 sensor upstream of cat. Help! Truck went to Fla and back with problem blew the first motor. has new one ho cam don't want to blow 2nd. Thanks.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Clue - "AC vent switches from vent to defrost."

    You've got a good sized vaccuum leak somewhere. In addition to the other egnine function, vaccuum is used to hold the ventilation system actuator door in the vent/floor/etc. positions. When you have little or no vaccuum, the ventilation system goes back to default state - defrost. (It's done that way for safety.)

    Look for brittle vaccuum lines - especially where they go into the firewall.

    Not sure it will solve all your problems but once the vaccuum leak is gone it may make them easier to diagnose.

    GOod luck.
  • fomoconafomocona Posts: 19
    I'm sorry to hear about your situation with your new F-150. Ford is committed to repairing your vehicle. I'd recommend that you work with your dealer's service manager to get your concern resolved. If you need further assistance from Ford, please call the Customer Relationship Center at 800-392-FORD (3673). They would be in the best position to assist you further.
  • saab2saab2 Posts: 6
    2002 F150 with smaller V8 began to make expensive exhaust noises under the hood at only 35000 miles. Since it was out of warranty I first took it to a muffler chain for their estimate, $600 to replace the manifold which had a visible crack. They said odds were good the other side wasn't far behind. Went to my Ford dealer and politely expressed my displeasure at things falling apart this early. They did their exam and said that not only was the obvious side bad, but the other side had 2 broken studs and was going to go soon. The good news... Ford picked up 2/3rds of the $1500 cost. It shouldn't have let go this early, but they did stand behind their product so I got the work done there, all is well for now.
  • neil68neil68 Posts: 1
    it could be your stater, which is located inside your distribitor.
  • ricardop1ricardop1 Posts: 3
    Hi all-

    I just took in my 2005 F150 for scheduled 60,000 mile service at my Ford dealership. The service advisor indicated that, though a change of spark plugs and tune up is not on the factory recommended maintenance schedule until 100,000 miles, 'they' are finding that the long-interval spark plugs are in some cases sticking to the heads, and that the dealership recommends a spark plug replacement and tune up at 60,000 miles, rather than the factory recommended 100,000. Has anyone else heard of this, or is the dealership just trolling for extra work that's not necessary?
  • vtech1vtech1 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    It is some what true. The 2004 - 2005 5.4 engines do have spark plug problems. There is a TSB out on the proper removal procedures and also the recommendations to remove the spark plugs ever 50,000km and clean and coat them with a nickel antiseeze. You don't have the replace them at this time since they still last for 160,000km. New plugs cost 16.00CND each. ooch!!!
  • ricardop1ricardop1 Posts: 3
  • ricardop1ricardop1 Posts: 3
    Thanks very much for the information. I will be sure to bring up the TSB with the dealer and replace the plugs the way Ford says to do so.

    Thanks again.
  • zediccuszediccus Posts: 1
    Well I have an 86 F-150 300 carb.----- well my truck runs great for about 10 miles or less as soon as it heats up it dies drops in RPM'S backfire's then dies I replaced the fuel filter, the igniton control modual, and the fuel pump I think it maybe a bad cab?
  • schmidtyschmidty Posts: 2
  • schmidtyschmidty Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 F150 with the 4.9 liter in it. I have started to have all kinds of issues with it. First the alternator, then the battery, then the o2 sensor. I know the truck is starting to get up ther in age, but it just turned 100,000 miles and it seems to be having all kinds of issues now! The latest is the truck has no power to it what so ever. I had a code reader hooked up to it and it said the MAF sensor, Ho2 sensor, and the o2 sensor are bad. I changed the o2 sensor and it did nothing for the power. The sensor was bad. The porceline was broke inside. But the power issur still remains. Do I just start replacing all of these items @ $50.00 plus a crack or can someone give me some advice on where to start. The truck has barely any power to go up hills, on the highway to pass, and even starting out in first gear. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!! Thanks!
  • 2004 F150 5.4 motor. 2wd 65500 miles. Suddenly (of course) no idle. It starts and runs but she goes cold when I lift off the gas to stop. Your ideas please so they don't get me too good so to speak at the repair depot.
    thanks
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