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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    That is odd, particularly after changing all the parts and it shows no codes. Could be a bad connection somewhere in the fuel system loop. You could always just disconnect the battery (s) for about 15 minutes to reset the computers. This means the computers will have to re-evaluate the system. You will be best off to take the truck for a drive (preferably 55 mph) for 15 or 20 minutes. During the evaluation period the truck may experience some drive ability troubles (hesitations, etc). But should clear up after it has measured all of the variables and made the necessary adjustments. After this has been done it should run ok. You might also check the fuel pressure at the engine. Not sure what your pressure should be but mine is 40 to 70 psi. Let me know how you fair. Mike
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    Yes that motor will work for your truck. I just helped a friend with a 98 f-150 4.2 5spd, and he found one out of a 2001 f-150 auto for 250 bucks and we had to remove it. But the only thing that was different was the O2 sensors on the manifolds, the coil pack, and the intake. So we changed the O2 sensors with his and the coil pack, and decided that the intake would work and ended up just plugging the old harness in the new motor. But if you're going to chage it I would change everything that is different. but we used the newer sensor that we could and the truck is running great. I hope that helps you.
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    kimberelykimberely Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 F150 lariat and they told me my hesitation, and "Surging" was due to a software update I needed, paid for and got it installed but it only seemed better for about a month, so I gave up!! Kimberely
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Kimberly, try disconnection the negative cable of your battery, leave it disconnected for 15 minutes to 20 minutes. This will re-set your computer. After doing this, drive it at 55 mph for 10 to 15 minutes (keep as steady a speed as you can.) This should fix the problem if it is your computer. Other than that I would check the timing, generally the timing is around 10deg btdc. What engine do you have?
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    firecaptain44firecaptain44 Member Posts: 4
    My wife's 99 f150 v-6 truck stalls when you try to accelerate after coming to a complete stop, it will start right back up no problem, idles fine. it also will get jerky while driving. code reader shows the following p0340 camshaft position sensor a circuit bank1 or single sensor.
    p0171 system to lean bank 1, p0174 system to lean bank 2 and p1309 manufacturer control. I have replaced fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, and pcv valve.also replaced the tranny filter and fluid. any suggestion's?
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    dannydan2dannydan2 Member Posts: 1
    Need help truck runs fine 75 percent of the time but some time at a stop it wants to stall out. I give it gas but if I press to far it feels like it is not getting any. Then I have to let up a little on the peddle in order for it not to stall.When it starting to stall i press the gas peddle about 3/4" till it go's faster so I can shift to 3rd, same thing happens in 3rd. Can start the car 20 minutes later and it runs fine.Changed fuel filter and fuel pump.It seems like you press the gas peddle to a certain position it feels like the truck is starving for gas.
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    There's a black box on the back of the engine called Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) which have leakages to the intake to open butterflys in the intake ports, make sure this is plugged in or possible it is bad. also maybe your cam sensor needs replaced or unplugged. The other thing it could be is the knock sensor.
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    Maybe the ingnition coil is going bad. Is that truck fuel injected or carburated?
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    frank_sneedenfrank_sneeden Member Posts: 4
    i have a 91 f-150 with a 300 strait 6. keeps flooding first 3 cylenders, i have changed the fuel injecters, and the fuel presher regulater. still doing it. what should i try now?
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check to make sure you are getting fire to all of the plugs. Run a compression check on all six. Make sure your valves are opening and closing. Please let me know, Mike
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    frank_sneedenfrank_sneeden Member Posts: 4
    thinks for the advice. will try that tomarrow.
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    k9iamnotk9iamnot Member Posts: 1
    help
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check the Fuel switching valve. Sounds like it is worn out. I believe it is located in main frame rail drivers side just behind the cab (or there about)
    Mike
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check the Fuel switching valve. Sounds like it is worn out. I believe it is located in main frame rail drivers side just behind the cab (or there about)
    Mike
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    frank_sneedenfrank_sneeden Member Posts: 4
    thinks for the advice. checked the comp, and it had none. puld valve cover off and had four push rods out of the rocker arms. put back in place, tightend. and now it runs. thinks again.
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Glat to hear it Frank, Good for you. Glad I could help.
    Mike
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    nairbnairb Member Posts: 10
    #6 CYLINDER NOT FIRING ON 1987 F-250...WHY?? wondering where to start on checking why the #6 cylinder isn't firing in my truck.
    Can't take this rough running, gas chugging, no power stuff anymore. Any advice
    would be appreciated.
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    joshlin1932joshlin1932 Member Posts: 14
    My 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis is unstable on the road. I have new tires and have had my frontend aligned and neither one helped the problem. My steering wheel has about 4 to 5 inches of slack in it. Can you suggest a solution for me.
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    mikesheldonmikesheldon Member Posts: 7
    The fuel pump on a Ford F-150 sends fuel to the engine. However, the fuel pump will eventually wear out. Premature failure is often caused by the gas tank in the F-150 not being more than 1/2 full or running the engine on a mostly empty tank. If the fuel pickup is not fully submerged in gasoline, it can be especially hard on the fuel pump, causing it to burn out as it draws in air and gasoline, struggling to do its job. Before having the fuel pump replaced, troubleshoot the problem.
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    19dick4619dick46 Member Posts: 1
    Need help trying to identify noise that sounds like a lifter or cracked flywheel. Check and found both ok. Ask ford mechanic with no luck. Would like to know if anyone has had the same problem with their 05 F-150 with 4-6 V- 8
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    Is the noise like a knock, or tapping? Where is it coming from? If your not sure of where it's at then I have found from my brother/mechanic that a stethoscope ( you can probolly get at a auto parts store or catolog) works for finding noises. For example, my girlfriend's 01 f150, 5.4 v8 was making a noise on the valvecover, and I thought the cam was making noise, but my brother put the stethoscope on a few places, finding the PCV valve was bad and making the load noise. Hope that helps.
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    ldrollldroll Member Posts: 1
    i live @ altitude of 7000 ft. my truck was "tuned up" @ 100,000 mi. when i am at sea level, it runs fine but up here, it stops running as i slow down/brake and turn right.[it is always a right turn and never happens when accelerating].

    i have been back to the mechanic who tuned it and also to another one; both say it checks out fine on the analyzer and to wait for a "hard failure'.

    by the way, after it dies,i put it in neutral/park and it starts right up. any ideas?

    larry
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    davyraydavyray Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 1998 f 150 and have not had any luck finding the problem. Have taken it to two different shops and my local Ford dealer did not find the problem either. I unhooked the battery cables as you suggested and took it for a drive. Tried this 3 different times and still have the same problem at WOT. One thing I have recently noticed is rough idle when engine is cold.
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    edited September 2010
    My 2002 F150 (150K) started making a tapping sound. The noise gets louder on accel and decel. Does not sound like a valve. Slight tap on idle. I thought it may have been comming from the top end so we replaced PCV, coils, and plugs. No luck. There is no smoke, no loss of power, no loss of oil pressure, no check engine code, or excessive oil or gas use. On further investigation I decided the tap or knock sounds like it may be comming from the bottom end. Truck runs great except for the noise from under the hood. Could this be a sensor? Bearing on a rod? Please help!!
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    davyraydavyray Member Posts: 3
    We replaced the ignition coils and this fixed the problem of hesitation at WOT. Threw a lot of money attempting to diagnose the problem at 3 different shops.
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    My gf's truck is a 01 with the 5.4 and it had a fast tapping noise it almost got to a buzz, but not that close. My brother, a mechanic, has a stethoscope which we held on the valve cover where the PCV valve was and thought it was the cam, but we move the stethoscope on the PCV valve and it was so loud it the stethoscope. So i pulled the vaccum hose off a it quit, so i replaced it and that was it. I suggest getting a mechanics stethoscope and hold it where the noise is the loudest. Hope that helps.
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    ebutenhoffebutenhoff Member Posts: 2
    have their been engine problems, mine has a nois e that sounds like lifters to me. i changed oil since I just bought the vehicle. It has 140000 on it. runs great but at slow idle has what sounds like a lifter noise. Oil was really dirty so I thought maybe fresh oil may stop the sound.???????? anybody got any ideas
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    Does the noise get louder when you rev it up?
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    truckgeektruckgeek Member Posts: 3
    Disconnect one end and drill a small hole (1/4-1/2 inch) through the middle of the honeycomb inside. The truck will breath better and, due to the small hole, your emissions will be fine as well. You will still have back pressure to preserve your piston rings. Sure cheaper than an $800 new one. Play dumb if caught.

    Note...wear a good dust mask. Those insides are toxic. Cadmium and all sorts of nastiness.
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    pendo50pendo50 Member Posts: 1
    I Have a f350 6,8 V10. the problem i seem to have is when it starts getting cold at this time of year the motor will not start at any temperature 8c & below so when it gets to "0" ive got NO chance. Ive changed the ECT sensor cleaned the MAF sensor & the air filter but all to no avail it still won,t start. When i finally get it started and it gets warmed up it dosen,t miss a beat. Can anyone help....
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    gabby16gabby16 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 90 ford f-150 with 5.0 after it starts to warm up it jerks and jumps under load.the owner put alot of new parts on the truck plugs,wires,cap,rotor,etc. had a leak in EGR tube and it was running ruff so we replaced it. It seems to run better and also quieter but still the same problem.I know they had problems with the dist. any thoughts?
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    edited July 2011
    Check your secondary ignition. Bout $20 at any autoparts store. It is either on the side of the dist or its on the firewall. It is a rectangular box with a flat pin connector on it. If its on the dist you will have to pull the dist to get it out, be sure to mark the timing before you start. I would also check the ignition coil.
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    tddmurphy55tddmurphy55 Member Posts: 1
    My truck is in Ford shop to replace plugs. Get call from shop number 4 & 8 plugs broke. Shop says unable to extract plugs without pulling engine cost 1400 dollars. Any ideas on a simple and cheap solution.
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Bull....Im an ASE technician. This is a common issue with this because Ford made the thread length of the plugs too short and carbon builds up and locks them in there.

    You have a choice to spend lots of money or try some tricks of the trade.

    Use a MAP gas torch and heat up the spark plug and aluminum area where it screws in. After its hot try and tighten it a little and then loosen it. Keep repeating this working the plug back and forth until you can get them out. These rear plugs are hard to drill out because they are in the back but it can be done at a last resort. Use a vaccum cleaner and ducktape a hose that will fit down the hole to remove any pieces and a tiny magnet tool ect. Poor oil in the cyclinder and crank the engine over with the starter repeatedly to allow any crap that fell into the cylinder to escape through the open hole or exhuast valve. Repair any damaged threads with thread repair inserts. Im a mobile mechanic and this is a common repair that I get. I would save a customer like you at least a thousand dollars on this repair. Good luck.
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    smedsleassmedsleas Member Posts: 7
    My spouse is changing his f250's spark plugs and has broken off one of the old plugs ceramic ends. I had gotten on this forum when he was having problems with loss of power and told him the recommendation to change the plugs, also letting him know about the problems with the carbon build up. I believe he bought motorcraft plugs. Does he need to tear down the head to remove the broken pieces? Or can he buy the tool that is talked about on one of these posts? That is without spending more $$ than taking it to a shop to solve the problem now.
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    mossyoak0086mossyoak0086 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 88 f 150 and it is leaking oil out of the drivers side valve cover and when i go from 4th to 3rd gear at 35 to 45 i blow smoke out of the exhaust pipes i have used additive oil and tried taking the valve cover off but cant i am out of options bc i dont have the money to take it to a shop if you could help it would be appreciated i have no idea what the problem is.
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    tech50tech50 Member Posts: 4
    You could have a pully that wobbles while in motion or at high speeds, the guides if wobbling will indeed shred the new belts.
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    02flhtc02flhtc Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2012
    done the head gaskets on my 97 4.6 and just wondering about alignment of timing marks
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    300mguy1300mguy1 Member Posts: 6
    Just read on another forum (f150online.com) that Ford has a TSB on replacing / repairing the broken plugs. It is very detailed and gives full Ford instructions...and does not require pulling the heads. good luck.
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    notlobnotlob Member Posts: 10
    I was told by a Ford dealership to bring my 150 in a day before so they could apply solvent to the plugs and let them set over night for removal the next day. They still broke five of the eight plugs durning removal but were able to still remove all the busted parts without removing the heads. I guess I was lucky from some of the stories I had heard. When they designed the heads on the 5.4 three valve they messed up big time, but I still like the power that this engine delivers.
    Lucky in Ga.
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    circleofheartscircleofhearts Member Posts: 1
    i installed a radio yesterday and it was connected by a harnest so there was no problems started truck up check engine light on saying eleven different codes how could this happen when it worked perfectly the day before
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    faof2faof2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1972 Ford F250 with 390 engine. I changed the fuel pump because the existing one will no longer deliver fuel to the carb. The new pump also does not deliver fuel. Both the old and the new work manually when off the engine, but not when bolted in. I suspect this might be a problem peculiar to these engines. I wonder if the fuel pump eccentric may have stopped turning.
    How can I diagnose this situation?

    thanks,

    Jerry
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    big_mac1big_mac1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Mike - Mine did the same thing. Looking at the date that you posted this I'm pretty sure that you found the problem. Mine has the constant ticking. Sounded like a lifter, but in the end turned out to be pressure escaping from the plug and then...... POW!!! pop, pop, pop, pop. It blew the spark plug out of the head and along with that breaks the coil. Joy! I replaced it myself, but apparently it happens quite often from the posts that I've read.
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    akearokakearok Member Posts: 1
    Runs ok on straight road, but loses power when it starts to climb, even on the very slightest slope, it loses power,,,,what part of the vehicle should i look at?
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    familyfarmerfamilyfarmer Member Posts: 1
    I have a '83 F250. My son rebuilt the engine and all has been fine.I replaced the starter solonoid
    last week. It started and ran fine. The next day it would not start but turned over fine. I charged the battery the following day and it started fine. It ran for about 1 minute and cut off.It will not start again. Almost like a vacuum thing? Any ideas??
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check to make sure the fuel pump is working.
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    dan3241dan3241 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I would like to try and help. If your engine in overheating all the time you should check the integrity of your coolant and see if its low or empty to make sure it’s nothing as simple as that. Even check the coolant Pressure cap to see if it’s tightly on, that will not hold pressure and lower the boiling point of the coolant. Other problems of overheating are your engine thermostat can be stuck closed not recirculating your coolant causing it to overheat in a short period of time. Recommend to replace the thermostat and could possibly fix your problem.
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    hosscat7hosscat7 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I need help. I have a 2004 5.4 ford f-150 and I just recently changed the spark plugs. Everything went well. As I changed them I broke a vacuum chord and replaced it. But when I start my ford it will idle if it's cold bit if you drive it and heat up the engine it won't idle. Can some one please help me. What could be causing this problem.
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    SweetdevilSweetdevil Member Posts: 1
    I just recently acquired a 95 f150 4.9, manual 5 speed. Had problems getting her to turn over replaced bad fuel pump still would crank but not turn over. Tested other things turned out timing jumped...starts fine now but, as soon as you step on gas pedal she stalls. New parts are as follows; fuel pump, filter, tps, spark plugs and wires, distributor. What could be the problem? truck sat for at least a year before I got it gonna check cats once it stops raining....
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    Hunter_jannace17Hunter_jannace17 Member Posts: 3
    ecker56 said:

    2003, F350, 5.4ltr, auto., 140k miles. Fuel pump problem every 10k/15k miles. The fuel pump has been replaced 8 times, and ready for #9.

    The symptoms before it goes out are: Lose of power under a load, erratic shifting under a load, erratic engine operation (RPMs go up to (4k+) but vehicle speed goes down). If you let up on the accelerator, engine RPMs come back to normal area and as long as you don't put it under a load it will keep running. If you try to accelerate rapidly, it will almost quit running and continue to slow down.

    The strange part of this is that while this is happening I can put the truck in Neutral turn the key Off/ON and it will run normally for another 30 minutes or so. (I know this is an unsafe practice while moving but I'm getting very frustrated.)

    The 1st pump went out at 15k. Ford dealer replaced the first 3 stating "contaminated fuel" was the cause. The next 5 were done by private shops. They could not give a cause other that a bad pump and did not find contaminated fuel. They could not explain the Neutral Off/On temporary fix either.

    It has been suggested that a ground wire might be missing of loose, but I could not tell. At the next replacement I am going to have a ground wire installed from the tank to the frame. At this point it can't hurt.

    If anyone has had a similar experience or has any suggestions, all will be considered.

    Did you ever find the problem I have a 97 f150 with the same problem?
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