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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems



  • 2005 F150 5.4L: 4 weeks ago I had 2 injectors fail at the same time in full open position. End result was bent rod/scored cylinder and failed catalytic converter. Per dealer, Ford knows about injector issues and has extended warranty to 100K on them. Ford is paying for the repairs without any argument. Issue now is lack of a new catalytic converter - apparently there are none available in the free world. Ford says their supplier will not have them until May 28th (if then) and dealer will not have it until 5 June (if then). Minimum 6 weeks without the truck waiting for converter. Anyone else have similar issues with Ford parts availability?
  • fng1fng1 Posts: 1
    My truck is hesitating or bogging down when I hit the gas, it feels like the motor wants to go but a lack of fuel or power won"t let it. It doesn't do it on the highway just in stop and go traffic and it doesn't matter if its hot or cold. I had to replace my temp gauge because it would go straight to hot when I started it up in the morning. I thought that was telling my pcm that my motor was hot but it still runs like crap. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, one of my fuel pump's and checked the fuel pressure. I also had my battery go bad so I used my buddies battery to start it and want to take it out while it was running and it died after I took the neg or the positive cable off. So I had the alternator tested and they said it was good but I did put a new one and and it still died. If you have any idea's, theory's or suggestions I would appreciate it greatly. I am out of things to eliminate and I don't know what to do next. Thanks.
  • alsosaalsosa Posts: 1
    I am replacing the engine (4.2 6 cyl) in my 1997 F-150 with a 2006 4.2 6 cyl engine anyone has done this any problem to that you know to watch. Thanks for the help.
  • mike4578mike4578 Posts: 8
    Still having the same problem. The truck 91 f150 5.0 EFI will fire right up run good for 15 min or so and then it just quits. Have to let it sit about 20 min or so before it will start up. I replaced fuel pump and checked all connections. I pulled a spark plug and hooked it to the distributor and grounded it and it seems as there is no spark. Is there a sensor that is bad that is cutting the coil off? This is driving me crazy.
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Mike, have you been able to pull the trouble codes from your computer? Your Chilton manual will tell you how to do this. If you don't have one I can maybe send the instructions to you. Otherwise I would check the coil (often when a bad coil heats up it will fail, then as it cools down it will work again for a short period of time. If the coil is Ok, maybe it is the control module in the distributer. Remove carefully and when replaced be sure to use dialectic grease as instructed. Check your connections to the MAF transmitter, check all connections. But the problem sounds to me like it is in the coil or Dist. control mod. Let me know. Mike9408
  • mike4578mike4578 Posts: 8
    I replaced the coil and the cap and rotor before I started looking at the fuel pump and connections. The distributor has good fire when it is running because i pulled the coil wire off and got a good jolt. The control module is mounted on the side of the distributor? I unplugged the MAP sensor while runnin and the truck idled crazy so i think that it is working. I dont think i have a MAF on my truck. If i do can u tell me where it is? Have not checked that yet. Thanks for all the info
  • couzracingcouzracing Posts: 3
    got an 88 f150 lariet. fuel goes past the filter with no problem. double tank. disconnected both filters. they r clean. pcv valve seems clogged. but dont think that is the only problem. what do you think could be going on? a line from the filter? the lines involved with the pcv??
  • couzracingcouzracing Posts: 3
    as far as i know, there is no MAF sensor on that truck. then again i could be wrong. but ive never seen one on that year and model
  • couzracingcouzracing Posts: 3
    what year is your F150? And do you know the code that came up? should start with P0 if it is 1996 or later
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Would be good to know what is the problem FIRST, then go from there. You should always clean and repair all that you know to be wrong before anything else can be done. Check everything first, if you don't know what to check , please let us know what exactly, the problem is...maybe there is help. Mike9408
  • dejagerdejager Posts: 1
    I have a '94 f-150 with the 5.0L motor. My problem is not a consistant one, but is becoming more so. The usual series of events while driving is: my check engine light will come on, the motor will bog down, somtimes missing, I can usually get it to run right by hitting the throttle wide open. It will work fine for a bit then go right back. Check engine light does not stay on all the time. Also sometimes the truck will barely idle at a stoplight, and at the next it's fine. New(er) plugs, wires, rotor, cap, O2 sensor, PCV valve. Does not happen at the same air temperature, engine temp, load, speed. No clue what's up, but it seems like a sensor of some kind to me.

    Thanks for any help.
  • Mike , replace that module on the side of distributor. I have owned a lot of fords and every one has done what yours is doing and that module was the problem every time. That is your secondary ignition module and you will need a special tool to replace it sold at every car parts store for around 5 to ten dollars. The last module I bought was around 40 dollars.
  • timbertimtimbertim Posts: 9
    I have replaced the filter in frame, took the fuel line off at the fuel pressure modlule on the rail, gas pumps up to there, checked the pressure in the rail, 40#s, replaced the module on distribitor, and still won't run. BUT if I sqirt gas into the air inlet it will run as long as I keep squirting the gas, stop and it dies.
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I have a 2004 F150 with the 5.4 3 valve engine. Engine stalls at idle or when making short burst of RPM's. I am getting a code read-out of P0506 ( IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM RPM LOW) I think it may be a vacuum line off or leaking, but I can not find the source. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks Notlob
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    What engine do you have???What control system do you have???Please check your air filter and any electronic device you might have between the air filter and the throttle body. Make sure air filter is in good condition and the wiring to all devices are connected properly. Mike9408
  • mike9408mike9408 Posts: 74
    Check your throttle position indicator wiring connector, make sure it is in good condition and that the connection is good. Mike9408
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    My understanding of this problem is the spark plug (steel) seize up pretty tight in the aluminum heads by 100K. Dealership broke off five plugs on my 5.4 last week. They had told me to bring the truck in the day before so they could spray some solvent in the plug cavity and let it set overnight and remove the plugs the next day. They did not wait over night and removed the plugs after the engine had cooled, breaking 5 in the process. they do had a way of removing the busted plug , but have to be very careful about dropping debris into the cyl. Removing the heads is very $$. You need to know what they plan to do, so you don't have a big surprise.
  • Hi,

    We have a 2000 Ford F250 crew cab, short box. It has the 6.8 liter V10, and man does this thing have power. Low end torque is through the roof for a 3/4 ton truck, especially for a gas engine. And it tows like no other. We once pulled a stuck 32 foot motorhome, with a 22 foot Malibu wakeboarding boat ataached off of a gravel boat launch. The truck crawled right out of it.
    The gas mileage is about 10-12, but if you want a gas truck that can tow this is it. It pulls our 3500 pound boat around like its not even there.
    The four door crew cab is great. 3 people in my family are over 6 feet tall, and we can all ride comfortably on long trips together.
    The truck now has 86,000 miles on it, and we have never experienced a problem, but as said before, it is maintained very well. Overall i would highly reccomend this truck.
  • amborideramborider Posts: 1

    Newby here who just bought a 2006 F-150 Supercrew with 5.4 Triton motor about six months ago. It's got around 50K miles on it now. AFTER I bought it, there appeared several signs in the service dept claiming that "owners of 5.4 Triton motors between 2004 and 2006 should speak with service manager".

    The service manager told me that they were aware that if you wait until 100K (the normal service interval for a plug change) that the plugs could seize or break in the heads, causing VERY expensive procedures to be done. He offered to change my plugs for $170.00

    His recommendation was to replace them before 60K, thus preventing the problem. I have looked around the web and seen multiple horror stories of people with this motor having plugs blow out of the heads, break, etc. and now am paranoid about the whole situation.

    My wife wants to go visit family in Maine from here in Texas in the truck this summer.

    My question is this.......should I go ahead and have the plugs changed NOW and hope they follow correct procedures from TSB 08-7-6 which clearly shows how to remove the plugs without breakage, and hope that they can do this without screwing up and ending up charging me for plug inserts, or at worse, new heads? Or should I just keep trucking, and hope the spark plugs don't pop out on this long trip?

    Any and all advice appreciated.

    Mike Selvey
    Nacogdoches, TX
  • tnt102704tnt102704 Posts: 2
    Mike, I recently had the plugs changed in my 2004, 5.4, at 65,000 miles, based on the some of the same stories you mention.
    I suggest you start using Lucas Fuel treatment with each fill up. This will burn off most of the carbon build up on the stems of the spark plugs. My service manager advised that the carbon build up is the source of the breaking/stripped plug problem. I bought the truck with 60k on it and had been using the Lucas to boost fuel mileage. When they changed my plugs (the $170 is just the labor, the plugs are another $80) only one broke off. In discussing this with the service manager, after the fact, he stated that the Lucas is probably why they only had a problem with one plug. I would suggest you take your trip, using the Lucas, and have the plugs changed when you get back.
    Beware, they also "sold" me on a fuel filter and injector cleaning, bumping my tab over $600, but on the trip to Daytona from W. Ky., right after the plugs and "cleaning" I got 21 mpg, loaded with 4 passengers and the bed filled to the brim, with my wife and her bff doing the driving. Both of them were hammer down all the way down and back. Good luck.
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I just talked with my service tech today at my dealership. Took my 04 150 5.4 3v in for a throttle valve problem. He had changed out my plugs last week and five of them were busted durning removal. he showed me the plugs (new) and now I can understand how they could be broken after they have been in the engine for some time. Plugs are normally good for 100k. , but the carbon build up would be very heavy long before 100k. Using Lucus Fuel treatment would help burn off the carbon build-up. Unscrewing the plug is not the problem, it's the extended tip of the plug that freezes in the alum head. A tech that's knows his trade can remove the extended tip without damage to the head. Take your trip, I have driven my F150 up to Wisc. many times about 2000k round trip and up to Ny a couple of times. I enjoy the trip in the truck over a car anytime. Notlob
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    This is true about the Ford V8's and the spark plugs. The problem is not that the origial plugs blow out, it is when they are taken out the first time the carbon on the plug thread damages the spark plug thread. For what ever it is worth, when taking the plugs out, loosen 1/4 turn then retighten to break off the carbon from the old plug. Increase the amount of the turn each time by a 1/4 turn until you have made one complete turn, then remove. Napa sells a replacement spark plug that has a longer thread on it and goes deeper into the head. By doing this I havent had any of the new spark plugs pop out of any of the V8's I have done.
  • mad17mad17 Posts: 1
    Have been waiting for a Catalytic Converter for our 2005 F-150 truck since Feb. 24th ,2009. Took it to the dealer (under warranty). Have called Ford to complain. Started in March/It is now the end of June. Keep telling me next month/no they say July 22nd. Meantime my fail safe mode has come on. This is the only vehicle i have. Summertime/we camp alot. Can't do anything til i get this fixed.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If it is that big of a deal getting a CAT. Just remove it and put an extension tube in there in its place until the part comes in. The down stream O2 sensor will set a code of poor CAT efficiency, but who cares! Your truck will still run.
  • mfeldermfelder Posts: 2
    93 f150 with 5.0 it is hard starting but idles good if i baby it it will go down the road but if i acclerate normal it acts like it out of fuel if i stay on the acclerator itll stall if i back off of it alittle it regains power .ive replaced fuel filter ,o2 sen.,fuel regulator ,air filter ,roter, dis.cap, and cheched other sensors by unpluging and looking at the check engine light and they all came on when unpluged and went off plug in. it has dual tanks and runs the same on both. help!!!!!!!!!!
  • lewscrewlewscrew Posts: 3
    I have a 99 F350 V10. I recieved the EGR system fault code. I replaced the EGR Valve and sensor and I still receive the code even after resetting the check engine light. Does anyone know what outhere things would cause this code?
  • notlobnotlob Posts: 10
    I would check the vacuum line to the EGR to make sure there is no problem with it. Pop
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If your trouble code is "EGR malfuction" Here are the possible causes: Electrical, EGR, EVR or DPFE, disconected hose or clogged or broken DPFE tube.

    You already replaced the EGR so that wasn't it. If it is an electrical problem, ouch very hard to diagnose.

    Other causes and most common are DPFE (Differential Presure Fedback EGR sensor) or EVR (Electronic vaccum Regulator to EGR) I know a real mouth full.

    1st: If you are not experiencing weird idle changes along with this trouble code, it is unlikely that the EVR is malfuctioning. It could be not working at all and not opening the EGR with vaccum. This is the cheaper sensor too. About $35

    2nd: On your exhuast manifold are 2 tubes one bigger than the other leading up to the DPFE. This sensor reads back pressure changes in the exhuast when the EGR is told to open. If the signal is not correct, bingo....t-code. Check to see if the tubes are clogged up or if one of the hoses came off the DPFE sensor. This sensor isnt cheap! If you have an exhuast leak, fix it. Insufficient back pressure in the exhuast can throw this sensor off also.

    You seem like a smart guy. After each test repair reset PCM and test drive. Keep track of what you have eliminated as the cause such as the EGR. This may take some time to figure out. I do this for a living and this t-code can be a [non-permissible content removed] sometimes. One way of testing the EVR is to temporarely install a vaccum guage inline with a vaccum tee to your EGR and put the guage so you can see it. Drive and look for vaccum being applied and changing by the system while your driving around..

    Get back to me if you want me detail how to test the DPFE. I have the right equipment, but it can be tested other ways, its just hard that way. Good luck.
  • t129t129 Posts: 1
    A few days ago my engine light came on and the engine started missing. Today the engine started missing worse and the light started flashing. After I stopped the engine and restarted it the light was off and it didnt miss anymore. Any ideas what's going on?
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