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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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    gysgtg2000gysgtg2000 Member Posts: 1
    we have had problems with the long PZT.1f spark plugs breaking off in the cylinder head leaving the bottom half of the plug in the cylinder head, this was on 05 f150 with 96k miles, there is a TSB that outlines a procedure to remove the remaining lower half of the spark plug, however this procedure will not work all the time, and then requires that cylinder head to be removed to complete the repair. ford is fully aware of this problem. we are recommending to our customers that the pzt model of spark plugs be changed between 50k and 60k service.
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    tadortador Member Posts: 4
    Hey, I've had a problem on an older Ford with the high pressure fuel pump relay, it had VERY similar symptoms, you might try locating the fuel pump relay switch and replacing it. I'd like to compare some notes with you on your super-duty. I have a 99' that I'm having some strange engine problems with. Wondering if your symptoms are the same or different. Shoot me an email if you could to discus, NastyF150@yahoo.com
    -Taylor
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    tadortador Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 F-250 with a 5.4,
    The problem I'm having is really baking my noodle. The engine skips,... somewhat at steady throttle, and BADLY with a load on it, I would say it's dropping 4 cylinders when under load... if you let out, they come right back. It doesn't skip when the ECM is in closed circuit mode, and it doesn't do it "as much" when it's HOT, as in ... at least a half hour to an hour of driving. It's blowing no codes,... I've seen coil issues with these trucks in the past, and have already replaced all 8. I'm really stumped at this point, any suggestions out there?
    -Taylor Email: NastyF150@yahoo.com
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    If your going through fuel pumps that soon, it obvious that there is an electrical issue. Do not use a test light, use a DVM. The easiest way to check this is first remove your passenger side kick panel. At the fuel shut off swich or inertia switch check the amount of voltage at both wires. Key on of course. There are two to be looking at, a green wire and a yellow wire. Sometimes FORD ran out of that color wire and used a different color, but it is the wires at your inertia switch that you will be checking. If the voltage at each wire has near battery voltage with the key on engine off, we are done here and we can assume for the moment that your relay, your ignition switch and wiring to that point is good. If you do not have near battery voltage at both wires, unplug the conector and check the power wire, key on remember! If power going in is good your switch ect is good. Plug it back in and cut the power wire coming out of the inertia switch and if it checks good, your inertia switch is good. If this is the case, the actual voltage at the pump must be checked. The fuel pump will actually run on about 10.5 volts but it wont last very long. A common problem that is overlooked by mechanics is resistance in the hanger assembley. The hanger assembly is what your fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit is mounted on in the tank. The voltage must be checked with a DVM or equivilent at the wires on the hanger assembly on the side that is in the tank. I have found this to be the cause each time this problem is reported to me by a customer. When you are turning your key on/off and it solves the problem for a short time that makes perfect sense. When the key is first turned on there is a surge of power going through the system. This will sometimes overcome resistance for a period of time. Good luck.
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Wish I knew the code u were getting and engine size. If the code is low flow or just a general malfunction code possible casues are: EVR (Electric Vaccum control Regulator) Normally when these go bad the symptom is also an intermitant surging during idle and even dies but will restart right away and then the problem goes away for awhile. Differential Feedback EGR sensor, there is also two small vaccum lines one slightly larger than the other coming off your exhuast to a sensor mounted usally on the valve cover, (drivers side in the engine compartment). Check to see if these hoses or exhuast tubes are plugged up. Careful not to break them during the check.
    Good luck
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Not sure what ya mean by the ECM statement. The ECM is part of the PCM. If your talking about the vehicle in closed loop. Any way sounds like a bad vehicle speed sensor. When the vehicle warms it might be malfuctioning only then. Good luck
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    feldy2405feldy2405 Member Posts: 1
    I have got a '99 F-150 with the 5.4L V8. Just recently the start up time has been elongating. It does not sound like an electrical problem because it turns over like it should but turns over for way too long before it starts. A lot of the times it even bogs down some right before it starts. If I had driven the truck in the past 30 minutes and go to start it again, it starts just fine. I had all the spark plugs replaced a little over a year ago. I am afraid the fuel pump is slowly going out, but was hoping it might be a smaller problem. Also, I just noticed about a half inch rubber hose dangling under my bed right inside of the rear driver side tire. A cousin told me it could be a ventilation tube, but was not sure. Help please.
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Not much to go on and I'm unsure of your dignostic ability, but here is my slant.
    Sounds like you have a cold start problem only. No check engine light or trouble code. Spray a liberal amount of starter fluid into the throttle body not the air cleaner area, and then imediately replace the intake hose prior to starting it cold. If it starts up right away, Your lean, or not enough fuel when cold. You will need a screw driver to temporarely remove that black intake hose.

    If this works the most common problem is with the ECT or sometimes called a CTS. There are two sensors for coolant temperature. One is for your gauge and idiot light, and one is used by the PCM to determine how long to keep the injectors open to squirt fuel(pulse width). This electronic coolant temperature (ECT)sensor also helps the PCM determine timing amoung other things. If the computer thinks the engine is always hot, well not enough fuel to start that cold engine and make it run right. This will not sent a trouble code or turn your check engine light on either. The PCM is just doing what it is told to so to speek, It is located near your thermostat housing and is a two wire plug. Try disconecting it and see if the problem goes away when engine cold. Disconecting it will turn your check engine light on and set a code. To reset, just disconect the negative cable to the battery, and reconnect the sensor.

    Unknown how many miles on the truck. Bad spark plugs will cause this also.
    Is it tune up time?

    Low fuel pressure will also cause a cold start problem, and not set a code. Fords will run with inadaquit fuel pressure when warmed up, and will even sometimes start without proper pressure. Good luck with it.
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    balfourbalfour Member Posts: 2
    Replaced the engine with a long block 5.4, original had 400k and no compression, has been at the shop now for several months and won't run, they have swapped out the sensors and computer and all is working ok, computer says engine not running, will start but spitting out lots of black soot from exhaust and won't rev up? any ideas what to try or could be wrong?
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    You didn't specify if you have a Dual Overhead Cam DOHC or just the 5.4L. Will run, probably like crap, wont rev up. Black soot, yada, yada, PCM indicates not running.

    Not much to go on because I'm not there to figure it out, but here is my opinion.

    Black soot most likely indicates either too much fuel or improper combustion.
    Not being able to rev the engine up indicates improper timing of the engine.

    What I gather is the PCM is confused as to where TDC is (top dead center), and cannot time the engine properly. The cam sensor is used by the PCM to synchronize fuel injection with ignition controls and timing. The cam sensor uses a single vane driven by the camshaft to send a signal to the PCM.

    On 5.4L DOHC if one of the timing chains is off by one tooth you will experience this problem. Wrong cam shaft with the vane in the wrong place will also cause this. Pulse ring slipped over woodruff key and out of position giving false info to crank sensor,

    On 5.4lL I would suspect a problem with the synchronization between the crank shaft sensor and cam sensor. Recomend check pulse ring on crank shaft dampner and proper location of the single signal vane on the camshaft used by the cam sensor.

    If your going to show this to your mechanics, mention dead time the engine and verify proper alignment of timing marks, camshaft vane, and pulse ring on crankshaft. Good luck with it.
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    cadaverk9cadaverk9 Member Posts: 1
    2001 F 150 111,000 K
    While pulling a hill, the engine light came on, truck lost power but kept running. Took it in they said needed a tune up. They did plugs and wires (which they said were arcing), fuel filter, air filter. Light went off, ran good for 3-4 days and light came back on, same problem. Low power, drop in gas milage, have let it warm up or it won't run, have to put pedal to the floor to get it to down shift on the highway. Code said that it "fuel lean" or "lean fuel". Anyone have any idea's?

    Thank you!!
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Lean fuel is telling you something. The PCM has detected a lean condition.

    Most likely causes;

    ECT sensor faulty(electononic cooling tempurature sensor). Sending signal to PCM that engine is warm when it is actually cold. (This will not set an individual code.) Pulse width of the fuel injectors is determined by this information.

    EGR valve pintel intermitantly sticking open due to carbon or other malfuction. This will cause a lean condition, and make running the engine very difficult unless you are at wide open throttle on the freeway.

    Vaccum leak causing lean condition until engine warms and metal componets expand to stop the leak.

    Intermitant problem with fuel pressure, or low fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pump. Since you stated that your problem goes away after engine is warmed up, this is very unlikely the problem.

    Every 60k your EGR is suppose to be serviced and cleaned due to carbon build up. Your ECT sensor is a sepperate sensor from your temp gauge sensor and is used by the PCM to give extra fuel when engine is cold, and kill the engine when over heating occures. One or both of these two things are most likely your problem from the symtom you described. Good luck with it.
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    wedellwedell Member Posts: 2
    I have exactly the same problem with my F250 1999 Engine cylinders start missing when I put a load in truck. Did you figure out what was wrong with yours?
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    balfourbalfour Member Posts: 2
    Yes, figured out what was wrong, the engine builders had but a reductor gear from a v10 on the v8 engine build. From what I understand this drives the camshafts which resulted in the timing being out.
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    tnt102704tnt102704 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2004 f-150 with the 5.4, 3v, with 60k miles. The truck runs like a top, clean carfax, prior owner reported no problems and local Service manager ran the vin on Ford's system and found only a minor recall for a check engine light when the truck was 3 months old. Before buying, the oil looked good on the stick,but when I changed the oil and pulled the filler cap on the valve cover, it was full of "cream" indicative of moisture in the oil.
    I have seen on another forum that short drives (wife drives about 4 miles, one way, to work) in cold weather, the engine does not generate enough heat to cook off the condensation in the engine. The oil from the pan did not show any indication of water.
    Is there a solution to this, short of having her drive 12 miles out of the way to work just to build heat?
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    mac46mac46 Member Posts: 3
    The truck just wont climb a hill. Downshifts and slows down to about 30mph.
    RPMs never go over 2500 to 2800. Even when I pop it in nuetral - no more rpms.
    I have to nurse it from a stop to about 50 on the flats. If it starts to loose speed it will downshift and go even slower. Can't pass anything if I try it downshifts and revs to about 2500 and slows down. Dont think it is a tranny problem because if I throw it into nuetral the rpms dont go up or go up very slowly. The engine idles fine and does not have a miss. Help
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Before you assume this is some kind of condisation. You may have the beginings of a blown head gasket. Lets hope not. Or, there was a blown head gasket prior to you owning it and that area was never cleaned. Anyway if this is just some condisation that builds up and leaves a oil water mix just in the oil cap area. You might try an after market breather. As far as cleaning it out, just use some carb cleaner spray. It wont' hurt anything and will eventually evaporate.
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    bullrider89bullrider89 Member Posts: 3
    hey guys i'm having problems with my truck. I turned right today an it shut off. I figured it had overheated which it did but now it won't start. It will turn over but it won't fire up. I'm wondering if this is an gas problem or if there is something wrong with my engine. any help would be much appriciated. :confuse:
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    mac46mac46 Member Posts: 3
    After checking everything else I found out it was my Cat converter. It was totally clogged.
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    dgrasserdgrasser Member Posts: 12
    Have the truck diagnosed (any auto parts store can check for errors). My guess is that the oxygen sensor in the exhaust on that side, which will make it run rich.
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    dgrasserdgrasser Member Posts: 12
    Was the converter clogged from bad emissions, or did animals (mice, etc) get into the exhaust system with nesting material or food?
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    mac46mac46 Member Posts: 3
    The ceramic cone was clogged. I was gray in color instead of off white. The million little holes were almost all closed. I was told it may have over heated.
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    magnum44magnum44 Member Posts: 1
    My 1989 5.0L F150 has started to use a lot more gas then before. It is running fairly will but blows a little black smoke and smells slightly rich. cats are new. top half of engine has been rebuilt (was running rich prior) has only one sensor on exhaust. engine runs at normal temp and only slight increase under heavy load. gas useage has gone up by almost doulbe. engine does not use oil and starts first turn every time. can not find any vacum leaks have checked when engine is first started from cold. all new plus wires and filters. Uses same amount of gas under heavy load and with no load.
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    dogman4dogman4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 F-150 with the 4.6 in the cold weather 20 degrees or colder it make s a annoying whistleing noise. This noise occursximately 1700- 2000 rpms, it backs off when let off the pedal. But it's worse as the temp gets colder. Performance and mpg not affected any ideas.
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    kimberelykimberely Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem in my 04 f-150 Lariat and so does my husband on his 04 f-150, I am meeting with the owner of the Dealership on Tues Feb 19th in reference to other issues in Service- and will add this to my list!!!
    I will get back to ya if you want to know the outcome with this and the "Clutch Packs" in the rear! If you have ANY dragging sensations, clunking or BINDING in 4WD H or L, Get it looked @ asap, because I was strung along for almost 10 months and 4 visits in the same issue!!!!!!!!!!!!! And after researching it in the summer I brought up the clutch paks and told them to chk them and they obviously lied that they had!! I just got my truck back yesterday from Having them install the paks and another $100 deduct on my EXTRA CARE Xtended warrenty! What A JOKE! So, I will let ya know hiow it goes! Kimberely
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    dogman4dogman4 Member Posts: 2
    Kimberley I have read your posting. What was the outcome did you have any positive results from your dealer. pleaes let me know. Dogman4
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    navynetnavynet Member Posts: 2
    94 F-150 5.0 engine. 70K miles. Starts instantly on first start of the day. When warm/hot will not start unless throttle held on the floor. Had all the standard stuff checked, injectors cleaned, etc. No codes show. Otherwise runs very well.
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    You might have a malfuctioning ECT sensor. If the signal is telling your PCM your engine is always cold, after warm up the PCM will hold the pulse width of the injectors open too long a flood your engine with extra fuel. This will also not set a code, and also explain why holding the throttle wide open helps start it. Easy way to check is unplug it after warm up. This will turn your check engine light on, but force the PCM to guess engine temp. If you have an easier start up after this test, I would suspect a problem with this sensor. It is a two wire sensor mounted near the thermostat housing. Don't confuse this one with the one that works your guage/idiot light. This ECT electronic cooling temperature sensor is soley for the PCM to know engine temp, so it can determine the amount of fuel to give your engine.
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    navynetnavynet Member Posts: 2
    mickeymouse2
    You are 100% correct. Removed old ECT, it fell apart in my hands. Installed new ECT - problem gone. Now starts like new. Thank you. DaveC
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    My 91 f150 jerks and kicks when I try to excellerate or even just try to maintane speed. If I am very jental with excelleration it will increase kinda ok, but any hills or anything then I am in trouble. Can anyone help? Mike
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    diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    First make sure you didn't get a tank of bad gas. Next I would try a can of really good injector cleaner to make sure the injectors are clean. Next is plug wires, plugs, and then coil. If you are getting a check engine light a scanner may help pinpoint the problem. one way to pinpoint which cylinder a problem is coming from is to remove one spark plug wire at a time and see if their is a difference in the way it runs. If you remove a good cylinder wire it will run worse . Remove the problem cylinder wire there will be no difference in the way it runs. Problem could be other things but these are the things I would check first. Always remove rings and jewelry when working around electrical components . I would stop engine and then remove wire then re start engine in doing test. a lot of voltage run through plug wires. Also a trick I learned many years ago from the old timers was to raise the hood in the dark and look at the plug wires and coil and distributor . Some times but not always you can see an arch around a cracked component.
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Thankyou for the input. I had the injectors cleaned about 500 mi ago, also put new ignition wires and sparkplugs in, but did note when I did that #3 &6 were terribly fouled,( worse than I have ever seen) I will check them again. No check engine lite, but rear anti-lock lite stays on most of the time. Thankyou Mike9408
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    for "diehardford", thankyou very much for the advice. I ended up pulling the cheap plugs I had purchased earlier, tossed them and replaced with my old favorite. Got rid of the problem. Guess now I remember why I stick to what works and remember what often doesn't. thankyou very much for the attention you gave. I am truly happy it wasn't worse than I had found (with your help of course). I was dreading pcm's sending units, locating etc etc etc. thankyou, Mike 9408
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    To diehardford, thankyou very much for the advice. I actually already answered this but found your advice from my origional message. so, Fuel is good, the only thing I did was replace the plugs again. Threw the plugs out that I put in about 500 mi ago. Put in my old favorite standby. (Champion) It is running like a good truck now. Thankyou very much. And I won't buy those other plugs again. Guess I just had a brain foul when I bought them. Trying to get buy cheap. Not worth it. thanks again. Mike9408
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    diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    Mike Glad I could help. Some times a clogged pvc valve will cause the back cylinders to foul plugs. I would change that out . They are only a few dollars. Also try bleeding the rear brakes that might cure the anti lock brake light. You might want to invest in a chilton or haynes repair manual for that truck. They are 7 to 15 dollars at most advance auto and auto zone stores. Lots of useful info for that model.
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    melikeyfordmelikeyford Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 94 f-250 with the 5.8 and I noticed the other day that I had a lot of fan noise and loss of power so I replaced the fan clutch which was bad. I'm still having the same problem though. I know it needs some new plugs and probaly new wires and rotor but I don;t understand the whole fan thing. The oil pressure has always been low on the truck but it has always ran great and had no knocks or ticks. Any advice?
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Can anyone tell me why Ford designed the exhaust manifold for the 4.9L the way they did? I can see no reason for it other than possibly the installation of a turbo or something. I would truly like to know so if you can answer the question, I will be watching out for it and will appreciate it. Thankyou, Mike9408
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    trobertctrobertc Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1987 Ford F150 (4.9 300ci FI 4x4. 4 speed manual) I have a problem when it warms up it starts choking and stalling.. I replaced the fuel filter because I thought it had some trash in the tank but It still stalls when it gets warm. I am sure I have enough gas but I am lost. Could it be the Rotor cap and button?. I don't think it is the catalytic convert. for it doesn't glow when hot. Cn any one help me?
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    I had this problem once, found it to be the coil. When it (engine)came up to operating temprature apparently the coil would expand enough to open a circut inside and stop the engine till it cooled enough to make contact again and the engine would then run. Mike9408
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    trobertctrobertc Member Posts: 5
    Thanks mike I will try that, I am up to anything right now.. its driving me crazy.
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    trobertctrobertc Member Posts: 5
    mike do you think that the coil wire could be bad enough that it might be shorting when it it gets hot?
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Yes it is possible. I would check everything that has to do with the coil and the Dist. best to check when it has failed you. (died ya knnow?)
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    joe2705joe2705 Member Posts: 2
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    joe2705joe2705 Member Posts: 2
    got a 91' F-250 2WD with a 5.8l EFI on dual fuel(Gas&Propane)was running over 1 year on propane.had to change midship fueltank filled up with gas and fired up,the engine is shaking like crazy.changed fuelfilter,plugs,wires ,cap and rotor,checked fuelpressure(is according to specs.)still shacking like crazy can't drive on gas runs good on propane.
    would appreciate any help
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    balsarbalsar Member Posts: 3
    Could this be a bad knock sensor. Both converters have been replaced within the last year with the o/2 sensors. Scanner reads o2 sensor and new converters are working ok. Also MAF reads good. 158 compression in cyl. and vacuum pressure is good. Yet I have no power unless I rev up the motor to about 3000rpm and then let off the clutch. this is the same in all gears, even at 45 mph ( until engine speed is upword around 3000rpm). Can I just unplug the knock sensor to test or is there another way? Thx for the help!!
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    motorhead57105motorhead57105 Member Posts: 8
    I am helping a friend with his truck its a 95 F250 7.5L auto overdrive tranny, and here is the problems we are having. The truck only misses when pulling his camper, and only after fully warmed up, and only on take off. then after 10 more minutes of stop light driving it will miss intermittently going down the road at 55. Heres what we have done so far. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, ignition module, catalytic converter, and o2 sensor. tomorrow were going to try a new coil, and different plugs. but my hopes arn't high. I have access to a code reader, and there is a code pertaining to the a.i.r. system, which i doubt has anything to do with it missing. I own a 94 F250 which we have been borrowing parts and "proving out" some parts. so far the map sensor is good, any help at all is greatly appreciated, this one defies all common sense answers.
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    mikekapmikekap Member Posts: 2
    I just bought an Actron CP9180 reader. On the Diagnostic Monitor Tests, I get
    Test $26 Low
    Test $2a Low
    Test $2b Low
    Test $56 High
    This on a 2000 Ford E-150, 4.2
    I tried to find what monitor tests check, but I cannot decifer these codes.
    Can someone point me in the right dirrection.
    I have a rough running engine that is driving me nuts. All of the OBD codes say ok.
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    joshlin1932joshlin1932 Member Posts: 14
    My 1987 Ford F-150 was in the Hurricane Ike flood getting water up to the bottom of the dash board. I think the computer is probably ruined, but I cannot locate it. What else could probably prevent it from starting? I have done all of the obvious things like drain the crankcase, fuel tanks Etc.
    Thanks a bunch.
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    If you would check behind the left kick panel (side of cab next to your left foot) I believe the computer is there. If not there look behind the right side kick panel. Also while you are under the dash on the left side check the collision switch which is on the inside firewall left side of the clutch, should have a red button on top of it, just push it in and release. This will reset the switch. Check all fuses and relays. Relays are generally under the hood on the left finder.
    Mike :)
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    joshlin1932joshlin1932 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks Mike. I appreciate it.
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