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Ford F-Series Transmission Problems

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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    Every once in a while i browse through here to check out peoples problems and all i see are questions to this " COWBOY " guy who gives some half-assed response trying to sound like he knows whats going on.

    I dont mean any disrespect to cowboy, but i have been doing these trannies for a while and own my own business and i do A LOT of diesel performance transmissions and have done them in F550 dumptrucks and can make them last just fine.

    I finally signed up today for an account so i can start responding to some of these threads to help you guys out. because its honestly sad to see all these problems that FORD cant figure out.

    Also, if any of you have any questions that you would like answered off the threads im going to set up an alternate email address specifically for this forum.

    thanks,
    A True Performance Transmission Rebuilder
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    email:

    trannyquestions@yahoo.com
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    ironsportyironsporty Member Posts: 8
    I'm fixin' to drain my entire trans (converter, pan, flush cooling line, new filter) and drop in 16 qts of MERCON fluid. I'm having a similar problem to yours; shuddering at 45+mph but no error codes or idiot lights.
    What did the FORD dealer try?
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    Try paying close attention to certain details while your driving it, like rpm and what gear your in. Try to pin point it to when it starts ( before or after a certain gear ). I say all this because the most common cause of your symptom is a shudder in the torque converter clutch. Major weak point in that transmission!!!!

    That is technically the first year of the 6.0 liter motor. Is that what you got or the 7.3 ? Either way its virtually the same torque converter.

    Also, does the o/d light flash?? if yes, then that means its throwing a code and you can get it scanned. It will then probably tell you theres and issue with the TCC (torque converter Clutchcircuit, or solenoid.

    If you need help choosing a torque converter, PLEASE let me know. I will truly help you.
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    i just noticed you said there were no lights or codes. How long have you had this problem ?? it might be too soon or just not enough to throw a code.

    Also, there might be a way to at least temporarily fix your problem.
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    Sorry for my lack of attention to your thread. I see now that you were replying to the 2003 f250 and this is not your truck. 2003 was the first year for the 6.0

    I see in your previous thread that you had and older version with a E4OD. Gas or Diesel ??

    It still sounds like a torque converter issue, but there was 1 time when a customer brought in a 1991 f 150 small block w/ an E4OD with a similar issue but it was more like around 30 mph any rpm when you touch the gas pedal. It turned out to be a stupid spark plug wire came off and was missing extremely bad. It vibrated that truck so incredibly bad.

    Thats why you should be as thorough as possible with diagnosing your problem.
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    ironsportyironsporty Member Posts: 8
    "Try paying close attention to certain details while your driving it, like rpm and what gear your in. Try to pin point it to when it starts ( before or after a certain gear ). I say all this because the most common cause of your symptom is a shudder in the torque converter clutch. Major weak point in that transmission!!!!
    That is technically the first year of the 6.0 liter motor. Is that what you got or the 7.3 ? Either way its virtually the same torque converter.
    Also, does the o/d light flash?? if yes, then that means its throwing a code and you can get it scanned. It will then probably tell you theres and issue with the TCC (torque converter Clutchcircuit, or solenoid.
    If you need help choosing a torque converter, PLEASE let me know. I will truly help you."

    The engine is the 5.8L gasoline version. The shudder shows up at 45mph in 4th gear. When I shift the trans into Neutral at 45mph, the vibration goes away immediately. If I hit the throttle and drop back into 3rd gear, the vibration goes away.
    The O/D lamp on the shift selector does not flash. I did change the trans filter and gasket last week. I added 6-qts of new fluid that only mixed with the other 10-qts of damaged fluid......Didn't have the time to do the job right then! Prior to this the vibration was WAY worse. I've read that worn fluid can cause shuddering such as what I've experienced.
    If I wind up having to swap the trans/converter, I'll be opting to get another 4-wheeler so I can put the 'ol F250 in the garage and do the job right and with lots of time to pay attention to detail!
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    I'll put my tranny or truck up against anything you can build and do it for less money. We won on Pinks with our Tranny and Torgue Converters, What have you won ?

    I just bet you cry when you get beat in racing because you think you are the only one that knows anything about Performance. So go cry to your husband that someone else knows more than you.

    Performance is simple and you are not the only one that knows it so live with it cry baby, lmao

    COWBOY
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    ironsportyironsporty Member Posts: 8
    Please don't neglect your E4OD like yours truly did! I won't mask this issue with a load of excuses for my laziness/stupidity. I didn't change the trans fluid in my E4OD until too late and now I'm looking at replacing the Torque Converter and possibly the trans.
    Ford Trucks will live forever if you take care of them. Don't run an E4OD for 76k miles on the same fluid/filter! There is a vast wealth of knowledge within this forum and it would be wise to consider this info. After all, it's free!
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    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Knock it off.

    This is not your personal platform for trash talk. Personal attacks can and will get you removed from this website.

    kcram - Pickups Host
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    OK LISTEN,
    I APOLOGIZE FOR ANY "PERSONAL ATTACKS" ON YOU COWBOY. I WAS JUST MERELY BEING HONEST ABOUT "SOME" OF THE ANSWERS I'VE SEEN AND JUST THOUGHT THEY WERE NOT VERY HELPFUL AND JUST SOUNDED LIKE A BUNCH OF 'BS'. I'M NOT SAYING THAT YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT. AND CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR VICTORIES.
    BY THE WAY, WHATS THE NAME OF THE COMPANY WITH THESE RACE TRANNIES AND CONVERTERS, I JUST WANNA KIND OF CHECK IT OUT.

    ANYWAYS, I'M HERE TO OFFER HELP TO ALL THESE PEOPLE WITH PROBLEMS BECAUSE THERES NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE LIKE "ME" OR "US":) WHO ARE WILLING TO SHARE THEIR KNOWLEDGE.

    I'M NOT A 'TRASH' TALKING PERSON, SO PLEASE DON'T GET ME WRONG. I JUST HAVE VERY STRONG OPINIONS WHEN IT COMES TO THIS STUFF.

    THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND A CHANCE TO BE ON THIS SITE.
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    redbud2redbud2 Member Posts: 3
    The tranny has been maintained every year. I use Redline synthetic fluid. I am careful on my weight and every other year I have it power flushed to make sure everything gets out of the converter. Naturally the filter is changed as well. I haul two horses @ #1650 lbs a pc and have a two horse trailer w/living quarters. total weight is about 6200 lbs. The truck actually can accel up a 3% grade fully loaded. I also run a Hyper-tech computer chip. The only real problem I had was I had to replace the cam position sensor. I am thinking of buying a finned tranny pan and a finned rear end cap to try to let things get a little more cool.
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    GOOD CALL ON DOING THE TRANSMISSION RIGHT.
    IT WOULDN'T BE A GOOD IDEA TO CHANGE THE CONVERTER AND NOT BUILD THE TRANNY AT THE SAME TIME.
    ALSO, THE 5.8L VERSION IS VERY LIGHT DUTY AND DEPENDING ON THE YEAR, MIGHT NEED TO BE UPDATED.

    WHOEVER BUILDS YOUR TRANNY, MAKE SURE THEY UTILIZE YOUR MAXIMIZE CLUTCH CAPACITY.

    ALSO, HOW HARD ARE YOU ON THIS TRUCK/TRANNY ??

    DO YOU TOW A LOT OF WEIGHT FOR THE TRUCK, HAVE AIRBAGS, LIFTED ????
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    Don't be fooled!! Whoever tells you that they rid ALL of the old fluid from the converter is lying. The only TRUE way to do that is cut it open during a rebuild. Although every other year is a good start to cycle new fluid through the tranny and that helps big time in exchanging old with new fluid.

    The finned tranny pan really isn't going to help you as much as its going to cost you. The best way is an aux. cooler.
    They are cheap and easy to install.

    I recommend COMPLETELY bypassing your original cooler in the radiator and run 2 smaller aux coolers.

    This is by far the cheapest, quickest, and most efficient way to lower your trans temp. Also maybe install a temp guage so you can "back off" your tranny and take it easy when you see the degrees getting a little hot.

    This is diesel right ???

    6200 lbs. is considered (I.M.O) a very light load.
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    ironsportyironsporty Member Posts: 8
    I do NO towing at all with this truck. The most I haul is a few hundred pounds of drywall, plywood or whatever crap I need for various home improvement projects. I've NEVER beat on this truck. NEVER even taken it out 4-wheeling! It came with the trans cooler from the factory with 5/16" steel lines. It also has the big 10.25" FORD open rear-end. That fluid was changed a while back.
    What trashed this trans/converter was stop/go traffic in 95+ degree hot weather. This went on for about a year. That was 7-years ago. It's really a miracle it lasted this long with the same fluid. Once again, my fault for being complacent while knowing better all along!
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    ironsportyironsporty Member Posts: 8
    I forgot to mention that this F250 is "factory original" except for a K&N air filter, repalcement tires, plugs, plug wires,etc.
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    transmantransman Member Posts: 9
    YEAH, EXCESSIVE STOP & GO COMBINED WITH HEAT IS A DEADLY COMBINATION FOR ANY TRANSMISSION, BUT THE E4OD IS VERY SENSITIVE TO HEAT. THATS WHY I RECOMMENDED TO AUX COOLERS. BECAUSE EVEN THOUGH THEY MAY BE FLOWING FLUID STILL, WHEN THE TRANNY IS UNDER ANY LOAD, THE COOLER MAY BE COLLAPSING INSIDE AND RESTRICTING FLOW.

    I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY TIMES SOMEONE TOLD ME THAT THE COOLER WAS FLOWING FINE BECAUSE THEY UN HOOKED THE LINES AND SEEN IT PUMPING FLUID. BUT LIKE I SAID "ON THE ROAD" IS ANOTHER SITUATION AND THE MORE PRESSURE GOING THROUGH A COLLAPSED COOLER IS ONLY RESTRICTING IT THAT MUCH MORE.

    ALSO, IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU HAVE 10 COOLERS, IF 1 COOLER IS RESTRICTING FLOW, THEN THE FLOW IS RESTRICTED TO THE REST OF THE COOLERS. ( JUST SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT ). THAT'S WHY I RECOMMEND BYPASSING THE ORIGINAL SET UP.

    THINK OF A PLUGGED FUEL FILTER, THE MORE YOU STEP ON THE GAS THE WORSE IT GETS. IF YOU ARE LIGHT ON THE THROTTLE, THE GAS CAN SLOWLY FLOW, BUT WHEN YOU TRY TO FORCE IT THROUGH IT JUST GETS MORE PLUGGED.

    THANKS FOR LISTENING
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    mbergermberger Member Posts: 2
    I'm having a slight problem that is driving me nuts. Shift indicator is off almost one notch. How do you adjust it to indicate the right gear?? Been that way since new.
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    ledroyjrledroyjr Member Posts: 2
    When I first bought the truck it started in about one week shifting ( jerking ) hard into high gear, it was adjusted and worked just fine. About a year later it had started to slip or at least did not want to shift into high gear climbing a steep grade, level ground seemed to function properly until last week when I was turning into the post office parking lot I felt a slight hesitation for a lack of better explanation. When I re started the truck to leave I had no shifting power forward or reverse. If I gave the truck a lot of throttle it would crawl, so I parked it. I had also noticed about a week before that the wipers on the truck had become very tired like moved very slow. I am not very mechanical but have a little nohow could this be that the vacume pump went out and is there a way to know for sure.If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
    Thanks,
    Roy
    r.ledfordjr@att.net
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    ledroyjrledroyjr Member Posts: 2
    I heard from Tony on my previous post #127 and he explained to me that the trans. most likely needs to be rebuilt and asked if I am located in Denver.I am located in Arizona around Show Low and Snowflake.Is there a garage that would be recommended in that area.
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    dciidcii Member Posts: 1
    O.K., first things first, I know next to nothing about car repair. Now that that is out of the way, HELP!!!!! I have a 1999 F-250 that has broken 3 crank cases in 6 weeks. The first one I put down as wear and tear. The second, 4 weeks later, I thought must be faulty workmanship so the tranny shop replaced it for free. Now 2 weeks later I have another broken case. The tranny shop doesn't know why this is happening or what could be causing it. They don't want to replace it until they get to the root of the problem and I can't blame them. I was wondering if anyone out there knows what could be causing it. I do not haul heavy loads, I am easy on the truck, and I do not do a lot of long distance driving...or any at all right now. If you could give me some ideas I would really appreciate it. Thank You All!!!
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    replace your U-joints in the truck, if it does it again then and if you have 4 wheel drive it's more than likely causeing this.
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    madmax67madmax67 Member Posts: 2
    sounds like one of the plunger cups in the tranny are ripped letting fluid go through, i had the same problem with my 91 E4od. the part is around 10 bucks but the labor kills you unless you can do it yourself :)
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    geo233geo233 Member Posts: 2
    Hi people,i want to know if some one had this kind of problem. the tranny goes reverse but not forward, as a hunch i changed the neutral switch, its a 95 f250 e4od tranny rear wheel drive w/5.8 eng.
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    daisylady2daisylady2 Member Posts: 4
    Had a problem similar to that in my 1992 ford f150 4x4 went reverse just find ,but not forward.It was caused by a large o ring that let go in the tranny.Cost of repairs $1900.00.
    good luck
    daisylady
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    richroserichrose Member Posts: 2
    2004 F250 SD 6.8 V10 4:10
    Transmission hesitates between 1st & 2nd and shifts hard; sometimes, engine searches and dies.
    P0722, P0720, and P0503 codes. Dealer replaced trans. speed sensor twice, plus wiring harness. Has occured 5 times in 1.75 years, 3 on warranty. Ford says it has to break before they can fix it. Called corporate and they blew me off. Dissapointed they would make something they can't fix. Is there a fix out there?
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    richroserichrose Member Posts: 2
    Have a 96 Windstar Ford dealer wanted to take apart for same problem. Started out with OD light coming on over long period of time and got down to first and reverse. Replaced speed sensor myself and have been driving it for a year now.
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    farmtruck4farmtruck4 Member Posts: 2
    my 91 f150 4x4 started running bad a while back and one day while attempting a pass on the interstate she went bang and the overdrive stopped working. It will go through all three other gears with the "od off" button depressed but its kinda rough and it shimmies really bad in 3rd at about 30 to 40 mph.is there a fix that can be done with tranny in truck? Money -is- an issue so any advice you can give would be great.I recently had the truck on a diagnostic machine and didn't see any codes for tranny but I was looking for why the truck is running so bad but I heard also that the tranny might be making the engine run bad because of some piece of electronics that has to do with trans preasure????? Please advise.
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Sorry to say but the tranny is going to go out very soon, depending on where you are someone might know of a good tranny shop, if in Denver I do.
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    farmtruck4farmtruck4 Member Posts: 2
    what are you talking about? I have put 2500 miles on this thing in 1-2-3 you must own a shop any way im not in denver. I can change my own transmission
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    kbproutykbprouty Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 f350 power stroke diesel, having problem with reverse, is there an linkage adjustment on the tranny? first it was just hard getting it into reverse now wont go at all. talked to my son who put new tranny in year ago, said he adjusted linkage, but i can't find one. any advise? thank kprouty
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    mark138mark138 Member Posts: 1
    The 4x4 light came on while I was in stop and go traffic, this was followed by a single clunk. The transmission is now stuck in low gear and there is no response when shifting the drive selector switch. Any ideas?
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    fordmangt350fordmangt350 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1994 E.B. Bronco that stalls when you put it in reverse
    it feels like the torque converter is locking up and stalling engine it started doing this only in reverse but now it happening in drive I can power brake it untill the convertor unlocks @ about 1500 rpms then it will idle fine in gear motor is new and runs perfect otherwise transmission was recently rebuilt problem didnt start untill i changed engine.only codes that come up is tps sensor low voltage just dont know where to look trans or computer? any body have sim. prob / solution thanks
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    I'll beat 2 to 1 that if it started right after you put the motor in the first time you went to drive it you didnt spin the Torgue Converter onto the tranny enough times or it slipped out when you was doing the motor and didnt check it before mounting the motor back in. Either that or you didn't hook something up right which is pretty hard but you may have forgot to hook some wires together.

    Was there any gap between the Flywheel and the torgue converter when bolting the 2 together or was it real tight and you had to force the tranny onto the motor ?
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    fordmangt350fordmangt350 Member Posts: 4
    torque converter is def. installed correctly and I have checked and rechecked wiring harness over and over again
    if I unplug harness and restart engine it sometimes acts right for a little while
    but that still dont tell me if its trans or computer
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    fordmangt350fordmangt350 Member Posts: 4
    I replaced the throtle position sensor this morning and all problems are gone all codes cleared and truck is running great.I dint know the torque converter lock up is controlled by tps.
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    oilman3oilman3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F-250, 4x4, 7.3 stroke, auto trans w/ 150k. A couple of months ago, trans would not go into drive. Reverse worked fine but no drive. This was late in evening at home. Decided to use wife's vehicle. Next morning, fired up and went right into drive as normal. Test ran and looked at trans fluid (had it flushed with new filter 25m miles back) and level & quality was good (no burnt.. looked real clean).

    Drove back and forth a couple of days checking fluid each day with no problems. I deducted it was a fluke or I was dreaming this up...

    Last night after 3 months, it does the same thing again. Fluid is still good... etc. Got on line and found some data on throttle position sensor possibly being a problem and a couple of other things.

    Any advise you can give would be helpful. Don't want to bring in and get stiffed for big $'s if it's a sensor I can change or do something myself..
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    kingrikingri Member Posts: 4
    Truck shifts hard, mostly notice when shifting into OD. Really noticable when downshifting back to 3rd when truck is in cruise going up a hill. If I punch accelerator to floor to pass it shifts much smoother. Any one experience such?
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    sbsociasbsocia Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 ford f 150 that starts to miss or bang out going up a hill in second gear. It smooths out when it shifts to third gear. I've replaced the coil and a bad coil wire with no luck. What else do i need to look at? Thanx.
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    mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    When was your trans fluid last changed? the Manual says to change it EVERY 30k!

    Mark.
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    mikenhoustonmikenhouston Member Posts: 1
    I got a "transmission malfuntion" message on my truck and then it started acting up. It would hardly move from a stop and when it did it would squeal the tires a few times before engaging.

    Took it to a tranny place and they told me the torque converter came apart and it also ruined the pump. Anyhow, they charged my $2500 to make the repairs. Not 100 yards down the road it started doing same thing.

    They have it right now and dont know what's wrong. Only 56K miles. This FRIGGIN SUCKS! Any one else have problems with 2006 tranny? Im really pissed cause its a King Ranch and I paid out the [non-permissible content removed] for it.

    Thanks for any help.
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    what2what2 Member Posts: 1
    went in to the ford place to have the tranny check out.. no codes from the computer.. they reprogramed the PCM. three days later the truck would go in drive.. took some time to get in 1st gear then it would hit 2nd gear hard.. after that it would go.. now it wont do a thing.. took it back to the ford place hand it back on the computer again found out that the forward cluthes were burnt out on it... and it will cost 2,241 to get fix.. when called int o speak with a manger on the issue he said the that PCM didnt have anything to do with it... any help in this matter i would love it..
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    barnman4barnman4 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my tranny on my 2001 F350. It started with a strange noise, like gears grinding or not meshing under the drivers feet. It also started shifting weird. Not going into 2nd until you back off the throttle. Then the OD. off light started to flash. After turning off the engine the OD. off light did not return. Now it is just shifting hard and still the into 2nd problem. Any thoughts as to what could be wrong. I do not know where to start looking. Thank you.
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    don110don110 Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem and it was the torque convertor.I got one installed on my extended warrantty. That warranty came in handy they also installed a new motor. the only problem i have now is rough idle once and awhile and loss off power. If i stop the truck and restart it runs great. This seems to happpen once every two months.
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    coopfordtechcoopfordtech Member Posts: 4
    the only linkage is the shift linkage from the column, if that is ok then i think you might have a low/reverse clutch issue, or the case bushings were the output shaft rides on can cause that isssue
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    coopfordtechcoopfordtech Member Posts: 4
    is it a 4r70w or a 4r100
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    scrapiron5560scrapiron5560 Member Posts: 2
    hi i had the same shuddering problem with my 1993 f150 4x4 with150000 miles with the e40d i had the tranny flushed for $160 bucks that didn't help one bit what a waste of money the shop said this will fix it no problem then had 2 more shops look at it one said its the torque converter and it would cost about $1600 bucks the other shop said it was a torque converter pressure senser and it would cost more than replacing the torque converter after listening to all the BS from these tranny shops i thought the tranny was shot cause it was shuttering so bad so i went to the auto parts store and bought a can of TRANS-X transmission additive made by k-m and figured what the hell it can't hurt and its a lot less than $1600 to $2000 grand after 2 days driving arround town no difference so i jumped on the freeway for a 150 mile ride guess what you got it no more shuttering i can't believe it but it worked for about $7.50 its working good i've put about 3000 miles on it and still no problems no shuttering shifts like new good luck guys try some it cant hurt and it might work on yours i know this is gonna piss off some of these tranny mechanics but if i would have got a straight answer from them instead of 3 different answers to what the problem was i might have wasted a lot of money
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    I had that once in my 99, Diesel, changed the fluid and added B&G tranny treatment adn it worked great, won a lot of races at the Drag strip with too, lol. Now my 01 is a different story, did the same thing flushed it out and put in the B&G and it did all right for 14K miles then the tranny completely went out, lucky for me I know a lot of people here in the Denver area and got mine rebuilt for under 2000 with a Torgue Converter that is better than anything Billet, ATS or Summit sells for Diesels. If anyone ever has to take a long drive in the Vehicle ( gas or diesel ) try some of that B&G fuel cleaner, it works best when you run the whole tank through. Anytime I start losing MPG I will take a long drive and run a tank of that through and it goes back to what I was getting before.
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    scrapiron5560scrapiron5560 Member Posts: 2
    yea cowboy if i can get another 14k outta my tranny that would be good enough for me for the $7.50 i put in it i never tried that b&g fuel cleaner but i used to use marvels mystery oil in the old freightliner i was drivin at the time it made that old 350 cummins pull better than some of the big cam 400's we were runnin , i never thought much of them additives i thought they were a waste of money but i guess some do work
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    I was the same way till a buddy of mine swears by B&G products, I had tried products like that before with no luck. But B&G I has to say actually work. Hope you get another 14K out of your too. The 99 though after I flushed it out and put it in never gave me a problem and I did a lot of racing with it and pulled a trailer too. The 01 the tranny was already kind of shot when I got it but the 99 I think I caught in time and did all that plus put like 18K miles on it before selling it and it never slipped again after the Flush and putting the B&G in it. So hopefully you caught it in time and changing the Tranny Fluid every 25K miles like one should keeps you going long after 14K or 20K miles.

    Good Luck,
    Cowboy
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