ordered 2001 Dakota QC on 6/15. slt, 4.7, auto, 4x4, fog lamps, HD service, power/folding/heated mirrors, bodysiding molding, slt+, leather wrapped steering wheel, tow group, sliding rear window, Patriot Blue, dark slate grey int. this answers my question about the rear slider and heated mirrors. he had five in stock, and one like the one i ordered in light driftwood, real nice but i guess that i can wait for the 2001. he said that he had 11 '01 allocated and that with my name on the list it would get priority. he never asked for a deposit which i think that you should recieve from a 5* dealer. a couple of questions about accessories. 1. how much should i pay for a bed liner(under the rail)if i am getting the truck a dealer invoice, and as a matter of fact he said that he guarantees the same pricing deal as before. 2. how much are the bed extenders? is it worth getting it from the dealer or should i go after market?
any answers would be greatly appreciated.
Gas prices in Plattsburgh, NY (1 hour east of Lake Placid) are currently $1.65-$1.72 for 87. i have seen super for as much as $2.00. needless to say the morning ride on the Honda 500 motorcycle has been cold, but cost effective at 50mpg.
Gas Prices - In my little corner of south central PA, its been running $1.529 - $1.559 for 87 proof.
Wheel Flare Torx screws - When I was installing mud flaps, I used this right-angle attachment to my battery-powered screwdriver to spin the torx bit. This allows for removal, etc. without removing the tire and wheel.
Added a ball to the bumper this weekend. Installed the wiring kit that plugs into the tail light wiring. Turn signals, break lights, four-ways all worked great as long as the truck's parking and/or driving lights were not on. When these lights were on there was feedback through all of the wiring and all truck and trailer lights malfunctioned.
After many claims that that trailer was being grounded to the truck via the ball and many failures to perform properly, I used the additional four wire extension that had a separate ground wire which I ran to a ready-made hole in the frame by the bumper. After this was done, all lights (truck and trailer) worked flawlessly.
Has anyone else had my experience? Is it really possible to get a good ground through a greasy ball and hitch?
I paid 1.41 tonight in Austin (Racetrac). Paid 1.45 in houston on Friday - also Racetrac. Austin uses conventional gas and Houston the reformulated. By the way, I recently paid $1.12 (April 16) in Weslaco TX - at the time that was about 20 cents cheaper than Austin. Weslaco is right on the border which could explain things some -- everything was cheaper -- stayed at a B&B for $29 a night for two people with full breakfast included. I heard priceline.com is selling gas soon -- this is something to look into.
I just hooked up a wiring kit, too. I was going to test it tonight, but the rains came. Maybe tomorrow.
Spike: Are you saying you still had a problem after fixing the ground? I wouldn't rely on the ball making ground. Terminate the ground from the 4 wire plug to the trailer frame. Also, IMO, I wouldn't rely on that bumper for too much towing!
General reference: I installed a Draw-Tite (75073) hitch. No drilling, just have to remove/replace a few frame bolts. It's a nice looking piece and barely noticeable installed. It was about $120.00.
Hey, you guys might want to check out these links when you have time:
I filled up my current truck, not a QC, Friday nite here in Huntsville, AL and it was $1.53.9/gallon. It's been higher. About the whine some of you guys are hearing - the '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 was reported, by many owners according to their forum here on Edmunds, to have big problems with a whine from their differential. The problem became so bad that Jeep went to another vendor to provide a better piece of equipment (different metals used I think, etc). Dana was one vendor, but I can't remember if that was the "bad" one or the "good" one and surely don't know if the same type differential is used by the QC. But many folks had their diffs replaced, some several times. Hope you guys don't have the same problem. The 2000 JGC supposedly has the "new" ones.
Everything is working great now that I've grounded the truck-side of the wiring harness to the truck frame.
At this point, all I needed to do was haul a riding lawnmower and cart on a snowmobile trailer for 75 miles. A major portion of this was at 60 mph. Have to believe that the total package was in the 1,000 - 1,500 pound range.
Everything went well. Didn't hear any odd noises and there's no bent metal. Handling was a little different but nothing that would give anyone "white knuckles". The 4.7, 5 sp, 3.55 LSD, 4x4 did a great job. I just have to figure out how to back up.
You should be able to get the factory bedliner from your dealer for about $200. I STRONGLY recommend installing it yourself with the instructions and plenty of two sided tape! Other bedliners may be better (better slots, etc.); I think the Penda's have been mentioned here a lot. I believe they build the Mopar brand unit anyway.
The bed extender I bought came from my local Honda bike shop. I got it for $170 and installed it at home in about 15 minutes. caveat: the factory extender is a 'bit' shinier, and a 'bit' deeper, meaning it extends a few inches further back on the tailgate (and intrudes the same into the bed when flipped inwards). I prefer the aftermarket 1 (who builds the factory 1 anyway). Ask your bike parts guy for the Amp Research (small) model from Tucker Rocky's catalog if you go that route. :-)
FIRST... Thanks to all for the heads-up on local/regional gas prices... An eye-opener that the powers-that-be here in Michigan should be aware of first-hand... Still hoping for input from Illinois (preferably the Chicago area), but have some meaningful data nontheless!
BED EXTENDER: It may already have been mentioned, but J.C. Whitney retails a bed extender for Dakota and other compacts (stock #07VE6332U) at $179.95. Don't know much about the unit... Just another option.
AIR LIFTS: Getting into the "boring" stuff this week on upfitting the Quad... Hooking up the electronic trailer brake controller, getting a different hitch bar with less drop, running wiring to the cabin to connect to the closed-circuit TV camera on the back of the trailer.
Thinking also of fitting the truck with bladder-type air lifts on the rear axle. The QC has considerably more rear overhang than the old SB Ram, and I'm anticipating more "squat" at the rear.
Has anyone had any experience with the air lifts? If so, what brand? What were the results? Any advice?
Paid $1.89/gal last Thursday. Gas goes up 10 cents per gallon every Thursday here. You can drive 40 miles east to the Indiana border and pay $1.69 there. Guess we are feeling the effects of Chicagoland down here in Champaign!
Going to Arkansas this weeekend. Does anyone know what the price of gas is around Sikeston, Mo and farther into Arkansas (Little Rock)?
We are still hearing a lot of stories of people near the US / Canada border crossing to NY state to take advantabge of the cheaper gas prices!!!
Currently 76.8 cents per litre here - working on an approximation of 3.8 litres per US gallon and an exchange rate of C$1 = US$0.68 that works out to be $1.985 per gallon.
Incidentally, a UK poster on the Jaguar e-mail list I subscribe to reported a price of GBP4.04 per gallon for Premium - at the rate of 1 UK gallon = 1.12 US gallons and GBP1 = US$ 1.51, that's US$5.45 per gallon!!
I don't know if you have heard from Atlanta yet on gas prices. I live in Covington which is 45 miles east of Atlanta and this morning on my way into work I paid $1.45 but I have seen it at other stations for around $1.51.
ted61: I am from Lakewood, Oh but now in Atlanta. Being an Indians fan in Atlanta in not easy. Tell me what is wrong with the tribe? I know there are alot of pitcher and others on the DL, but what else is wrong.
Here in Ottawa, this morning - 68.5 cents/L. 68.5x3.78 = $2.59CAN/US gal.X 0.68 = $1.76 US/gal. I was in Montreal yesterday for the F1 Grand Prix, and the gas prices there were 84.9 cents/L - about $2.18 US /Gal! For those who are curious, I'm getting 16.8 - 20.8 mpg in my Ranger 2wd 5sp 2.9L. If you guys are really getting mileage in the 17mpg range, than I should consider that Dakota I test drove (post 360). Little leary of the v8's thirst for fuel, and Ford is coming out with a 210hp 4.0L Ranger this fall. That Ranger should be 10% cheaper, get 10% better mileage, and perform equal to a V8 Dakota. Waiting for my back-pay cheque before the serious shopping begins for a new truck...
NEWQUAD: I use a ratchet box wrench with a torq bit for those tight places.
Fuel cost: In Oklahoma and Kansas we are paying 1.75-1.80 and rising. The hard part for us is that we are used to be one of the cheapest parts of the country to fill at and now are 20-30 cents higher than average. OOOOUch.
I have a major headache with the reformulated gasoline. I have a 73 Dodge motor home (360) that I have been working on for a while after my Dad 'donated' it to me. We have been spending the past few weeks putting it back together to loan a friend who was in a pinch. We had to take it up to Salina, KS on Sunday, a 200 mile trip and the thing has not be on the road for two years. We have keep everything operational though. We hit the Wichita area and I had not considered that the area would be using reformulated gas (ethanol). With no options, we filled up. Fifteen miles later, it started backfiring. The last 100 miles was interrupted by occasional backfiring and then when we got there, the engine died and was hard starting and would not maintain off-idle under load. We are hoping that a fuel filter change will help the cause when we move it in a couple of months, but we may be looking at a fuel tank flush and a carb rebuild. Reformulated gas is a mixed bag for the newer vehicles, but hell on the older, little used vehicles.
I need to include another Michigan price. Here on the west side of the state (Kalamazoo) $2.099 is the norm. I found 1 station for $1.999 last week and put $42 in. The only break I'm getting is that I have a 2wd with the standard tires. Computer says I'm at 23.2 MPG with 240 miles on this tank. I haven't passed anything in a week. I'm trying for the best tank ever right now (6,600 miles on the truck)
Ozark - Let me know what you are going to do with the extended warranty. I'm on track for around 30,000 miles a year right now. No change unless I find a job closer to home.
Growing up in Michigan, I have NEVER heard of anyone in Michigan pay more for gas than our friends to the north (Canada)!!!!!!! Something stinks around here, and it isn't the roadkill!!!!
I talked with a friend of mine in the oil production (drilling) industry when he came into town this weekend & he said the the word running around the oil patch that he hears is that fuel prices will be around 2.00 - 2.50 from now on. . . (at least for the forseeable future). He told me not to expect the price to go down again.
Wonder if this has any thing to do with the EPA wanting to "hammer" the large SUV market?
or with the Exxon/Mobile merger? they are now THE largest production/exporation/retail oil company in the world.
Guess I'll just have to get used to the idea that driving a V-8-propelled quad is a rich man's sport! Can't bear to take the Harley down those gravel roads for the short trips, so thinking of finding a used Geo Metro or some such contraption for scooting about locally... Ah well!
Trying to find some solace in the situation... And the wife (bless her) e-mailed me a quotation from baseball great Dizzy Dean:
"It puzzles me how they know what corners are good for gas stations!... Just HOW did those fella's know there was gas and oil under there!?"
I was just reading where the buzz is that they will be bringing out the new hemi engine in the Jeep Grand Cherokee next year. A 5.7L with 353 HP and 353 ft-lb torgue mated to a HD 6-spd manual. That should make you lovers of more power salivate. If this happens, I expect we can see the Dakota get it a year after, like the 4.7L. They also said that Dodge was killing the full-size van and converting the plant over to product the Maxxcab. The show Maxxcab is based on a widened dakota chassis, and they said that the Maxxcab will be followed by a new Jumbo SUV and then a new medium duty pickup. The inference as I understood it, was that the new SUV was a replacement for the Durango because sales were down. The potential lineup is interesting to say the least. Could 2001 be the last year for the Dakota Quad Cab? If the Maxxcab is popular, could the Dakota/Durango be in for a sudden replacement? Could we have so many choices to make that we will get fustrated and buy a moped for the gas mileage? Will Al Gore claim to have invented the fuel cell or hybrid cars?
What you've read and passed on sounds interesting, though I can't for the life of me imagine DC abondoning either the current Durango or Quad for at least a few years... Refinements, yes... But it seems that they've got a solid niche in the midsize segment. Now that they're fully tooled for those builds, and they've got some respectable quality ratings, it seems that they'd be cashing in on a competitive price advantage over the next few years.
Thanks for the advice on hitches. Ordered the Reese (44018) hitch from Walmart 13 Jun and picked it up today. Cost $118.96 plus tax for the complete package; Hitch, stinger, pin/ retaining clip and mounting hardware. I have to go to Philly, PA this week (Boeing) but will install it this weekend. Any do's or don't's?
Mr. UPS just brought me the hard-copy catalog from Trail Blazers for Dodge Truck... Will enjoy that in lieu of desert after dinner tonight, and pass on anything interesting (or cheap)...
I have the 2000 club cab sport with the "RAZ" stereo premium sound. (8 infinity speakers, 3 band graphic equalizer, CD/tape/AM/FM) Does anyone know how many watts this stereo has. (or how much it can handle) I would like to install an amp (Punch 40 Rockford Fosgate) without installing new speakers. I am afraid this amp will blow up the speakers. I plan on installing the amp so that it distributes the total watts amongst all 8 eight speakers. This would be about 300amps/8 = 37.5 watts per speaker. Does any feel that this system lacks some treble? It has great bass and mid-range but very little treble. Any help will be appreciated.
Just filled up after work at "DA HOOD" Racetrack in Copperas Cove $1.369. Down from $1.429 Friday. Went to San Angelo over the weekend $1.489. (87 all) Talked to my niece in Omaha and they are charging $1.759 where she works in Council Bluffs Iowa(they buy it at $.50 by the way). Am averaging 14.8 on my Quad 4X4 with the 4.7 5spd, 3.92. I'm sure if I wasn't in central Texas running the A/C it would be a bit better. Though the new A/C compressors are much more efficient then they used to be. Still in love with this thing after 7200 mi, just changed the oil to Castrol Syntec and will change the rest of the drive train to synthetics before heading up to the YOOP in July. My mom is paying over $2.00 in Ontonagon by the way.
I would not recommend that you hook up a punch 40 amplifer to your existing Infinity speakers. You will surely blow them. I would suggest that you replace the front speakers with high end separates and just run them off the amp and run the rear speakers off the existing system. Most of the stereo soundstage should come from the front with this setup and you will still be able to fade between front and rear. Get help from a local installer or go to crutchfield online for help. I have had ordered several times from crutchfield, decent prices and very good service.
Also installed a Reese 36047 hitch on my '99 Dakota. Very easy install and looks great.
That was an outstanding price at $118.00 That hitch lists for approx $156.87. I will check with our local Wal Mart and order at that price. Did they have it catalog listed, or did they have to call on the pricing?
BTW- I originally purchased my wiring "T" adapter from Wal Mart and have since returned it to purchase the Reece brand "T" adapter. The Reese unit was $22.99, while the Walmart unit (another name brand) was $3.000 more. Price wasn't the motivator. The Reese unit brings the grond wiring from the lights back to the trailer plug. The other brand only connect to the "hot side". I wanted to use the ground for lighting on the trailer rather than the ball and frame.
I originally posted this question in the QuadCab forum and thought I would also copy it here as well- more traffic.
Anyone else observing the slight "binding"click in the steering column, or attempted to have it fixed? There is a TSB out for this situation but I have failed to address it because it did not initially occur very often and that it did not appear to physically restrict steering wheel movement. I ask now because it does occur multiple times daily.
I notice it mostly well after completing a tight turn at corners, or situations similar to backing out of the driveway etc. in either direction. At some point later after I am moving forward in a straight line and I need to adjust the steering wheel to the opposite direction, it will click.
It is supposedly due to slight misalignment of the steering column linkage and is addressed by repositioning a 4 bolt saddle clamp at the underside of the dash. I became aware of the TSB back when we were researching a printout of the infamous "engine ticking" several months ago. My brother-in-law (owns a repair shop)subscribes to a site where he noticed it and mentioned it. At the time I was not too interested but may proceed with the fix.
In fact, for those interested, the web-site is available but you must pay if you wish to stay abreast of the recent (past year or so) TSBs. I know the quarterly CD is about 3-6 months behind the dealership, but the site may be up-to-date. If my memory works the site is www.alldata.com
impy2, the infinity sound system has a power amplifier. there is a seperate fuse in the fuse panel labled stereo amp and the amp is located on the passenger side front kick panel. It is pretty easy to remove the panel and look at the amp if you want to. I did not remove the amp but wonder if the specs are listed on the body of the amp somewhere. One day when I get really bored I will pull the amp and check.
Thus far, I've not used towing stabilizer bars, but would entertain the idea if it makes sense.
I'm just now getting to the towing issue with the QC. The trailer is a 14-foot enclosed tandem axle (Pace) weighing in at about 2,250#. Throw a couple of Harleys, tools, luggage, fishing gear, etc. in, and I'm pulling 5,000 or better total.
'Till now, I've been towing with a '95 Ram 4X SWB /w/ towing package and 5.9 engine. The trailer is very well balanced (close to 60%front and 40% rear), but under certain driving conditions (dips/rises at highway speed) would create a very mild lift at the front end... Nothing to worry about.
Her comes the QC, just 300# lighter than the Ram, but with significantly more rear overhang. I won't know whether I have a potential problem until I have the trailer in tow... But I suspect that I may be looking for a reasonably economical way to keep the rear-end squat to a minimum.
Any/all suggestions are appreciated!
STEERING TICK: I haven't experienced a steering tick with the QC, but I DID with the Ram. I took it in, and the dealer corrected the problem under warranty. Within two months, I received a recall notice from Chrysler to correct a steering problem... Don't know whther it was related to the "ticking," but it may well have been.
I called the Reese 1-800 number and verified they had the hitch in stock then I called Wal mart for a price quote. Wal mart did not have it stock listed in the catalog so I gave them the part number. They called Reese or their distributor and quoted $118.96 + tax ($126.10 total). So I ordered it. Auto Zone wanted $179.00 + tax. If you need the location, phone number, sales rep name etc... of my local Wal mart let me know.
I had a 98 Club Cab that had this problem. I took it back to the dealer 6 times for this problem!!! They replaced the steering column and then finally they noticed the TSB that was out for this. The RAM and the Dakota had the same situation. It ended up being the intermediate steering shaft that connected the steering column to the steering gearbox (all under the hood on the driver side). This shaft has a universal joint in it that gets loose over time and starts to click whenever the frame of the truck flexes. The dealer changed this shaft on my truck 3 times and the problem would return in less than 1K miles. The genius Chrysler Engineers redesigned the shaft and they put another one on my truck. An improvement this time, it lasted about 3K miles until the problem came back. Eventually I gave up and lived with it, then sold it to buy my Quad. Since the Quad has rack and pinion steering I am hoping that this truck will not have this problem- but I won't be surprised. I bothers me a little that the frame on these trucks allow so much flex.
Ferous, my deposit (covering both orders) was $100.00.
Ozark, thank you for your belated congratulations.
Cowtownaggie, great news, enjoy!
Spike, I rented a trailer once using my wife's SUV and had all kinds of intermittent problems using the ball to make ground. Ran a single stranded wire from the trailer tongue to the receiver, and Presto! no more malfunctions.
Towcrazy, spent the last five days at our beach house, and forgot to load my lap top. Had a great Father's day with my two sons and their brides. Tow, gasoline is around $1.55-9/10 to $1.58-9/10 in PA and $1.49-9/10 in Southern, NJ. Mileage is pushing 19MPG at this point because of the relatively flat roadways traveled in NJ.
Is there a Mopar website that gives a list of Mopar parts that I can get for my 2000 Dakota? Parts such as: computer chips, headers, mudflaps, hitch protectors, bed covers, oil filters, and all that other performance stuff. I went to www.mopar.com, but this website is useless!!! It lists no parts and no prices. I would like an alternative. Thanks.
Although I'll need one soon, I have not had the time to locate a system for the Quad that could handle side-by-side canoes. I've looked at Yakima's and Thule's "gutter-less" systems and like cross bars but I don't want all of the weight on four little feet sitting on the roof. Have you seen any "rails" that run the length of the roof, similar to the Durango's that will accept Yakima or Thule cross bars?
As an alternative, Mopar's base system for the Quad is about $200 then you have to add a "Water Sports" package for $100+.
Leave on a 65 mile backpack trip in the mountains of New Mexico this weekend. Quad is just going to sit for 16 days. If you can't spare the time to stop by and "exercise" it, should I put it up on blocks and cover the tires to prevent sun damage?
BTW the headliner is beige and recently got a 17.9 mpg. I'm going to write down the mileage so I'll know when I get back.
There's been a lot of talk about Mobil 1 oil and filters being pretty good. Our local K-Mart does have the filters but seldom has the oil.
My question is about the filters. I'd like to know the part number of the Mobil 1 filter for the 4.7 L since the reference book at the oil filter shelf only goes to 1998. I'm sure someone knows this.
Spike, Tim and I could run relay races with your Quad, passing off while moving at high speed. Please leave truck with full tank, as Tim wants to spend his money on llamas, and I'm not allowed to spend money. Have a wonderful trip.
I live in the Northern VA area and when I left there on 9 June, 87 octane was about $1.48-$1.51 at name brand stations and about $1.41 at Racetrac. For the past 2 weeks, I have been TDY (that is govt. travel for you non-military types) in Bangor, WA and further north at Whidbey Island. 87 octane here is about $1.56 - $1.62. At home, I drive a 91 Geo Prizm (39 mpg) and dream it is a quad. My wife says "dream on".
Before spending the money on an airbladder or airshock unit I would seriously investigate the Reese accessory: the 350 Mini Liteweight Weight Distributing Systems, for your application.
I is a light weight, Weight Distrubution system for use with lighter weight trailers, utility trailers and fold-down campers. No chains or snap-up brackets are necessary and 350 Mini works with any 2" receiver. The sway control is built right in with the hitch ball included. Maximum tongue weight capacity of 350 lbs. and gross trailer weight of 3,500 lbs.
Towcrazy2- Didn't catch the 5,000# trailer weight first time I read your note. The Reese Weight distribution system may not work for you, but may help others with lighter weight trailers. You may even want to e-mail Reese to see if they have something with slightly more capacity.
jcody1- when requesting input on steering clicking, I may not have mentioned it, but my truck is a 2000 Quad Cab 2WD with the rack and pinion. It sound like they have not completely resolved the problem after all. Thanks for the response.
Just put the 1st tank of 87 proof in the quad. Avg 16.63 on first tank. All day Sat & Sun was running around short hops & in town (showing off!). The other 1/2 tank was actual "work" miles - on the highway @ 50 - 80 mph.
I think the mileage will improve after break-in if I can keep it out of town & on the Highway.
Bookitty - I will end up running 2 tanks of gas w/the Marvel Mystery Oil added. I would hope that is enough. Did your mileage increase when you went to staight gas w/out the MMO?
My quad is 4x4, 4.7L, 5spd, 3.55 lsd rear and A/C running ALL the time!
I will only be carrying one boat at a time so I opted for the Yakima half rack for over the cab and a Fulton Canoe Caddy that attaches to the hitch. The Canoe caddy can be found at www.cabelas.com
Another solution that's a little more beefier and can handle multiple boats can be found at www.bedrack.com
Went camping/fishing last weekend and traveled on a lot of washboard dirt roads. Bed hop got bad enough that I could not maintain my speed going up some of the inclines. Dropping the vehicle into 4wd helped tremendously.
yooper - Might've seen you in San Angelo on Father's Day weekend - we've got a ranch south of Miles past the Lowake cutoff...
Spike - the # is M1-204, same as last year's Grand Cherokee 4.7 engine. Oh, and if I get over the flu by Thurs. I'll be in the Sangre de Cristos this weekend doing some 'stuff' on some 'gizmos' I sold to a site near a place called Las Alamos... ;-)
a_j - I've been researching this pretty dutifully for everyone since I'm in the industry. My initial findings into the Midwest's (and other areas') higher prices are these: Refiners were hedging on prices (to them) dropping about 20 - 25% as OPEC increased supplies to them just before the summer refining runs. Some increases came, but other factors hit them hard, especially in the Midwest. Some of the component chemicals used to make the methanol mix required by certain states and the EPA were simply not available, or were not ordered sufficiently to meet the demand - I'll know which later this week. AND cleaner burning fuels do NOT cost the additional 3 - 8 cents per gallon that the current administration tells us. The UNOCAL patents alone add a nickel to every gallon of the stuff, PLUS the infrastructure to create it is constantly in a state of flux - exactly as 'certain' factions in the federal government want. I'm stopping here because I see a sign post up ahead... It says: "Jack's soapbox." :-O
Comments
a couple of questions about accessories.
1. how much should i pay for a bed liner(under the rail)if i am getting the truck a dealer invoice, and as a matter of fact he said that he guarantees the same pricing deal as before.
2. how much are the bed extenders? is it worth getting it from the dealer or should i go after market?
any answers would be greatly appreciated.
Gas prices in Plattsburgh, NY (1 hour east of Lake Placid) are currently $1.65-$1.72 for 87. i have seen super for as much as $2.00. needless to say the morning ride on the Honda 500 motorcycle has been cold, but cost effective at 50mpg.
Evan
Scott
Wheel Flare Torx screws - When I was installing mud flaps, I used this right-angle attachment to my battery-powered screwdriver to spin the torx bit. This allows for removal, etc. without removing the tire and wheel.
After many claims that that trailer was being grounded to the truck via the ball and many failures to perform properly, I used the additional four wire extension that had a separate ground wire which I ran to a ready-made hole in the frame by the bumper. After this was done, all lights (truck and trailer) worked flawlessly.
Has anyone else had my experience? Is it really possible to get a good ground through a greasy ball and hitch?
By the way, I recently paid $1.12 (April 16) in Weslaco TX - at the time that was about 20 cents cheaper than Austin. Weslaco is right on the border which could explain things some -- everything was cheaper -- stayed at a B&B for $29 a night for two people with full breakfast included.
I heard priceline.com is selling gas soon -- this is something to look into.
I just hooked up a wiring kit, too. I was going to test it tonight, but the rains came. Maybe tomorrow.
Spike: Are you saying you still had a problem after fixing the ground? I wouldn't rely on the ball making ground. Terminate the ground from the 4 wire plug to the trailer frame. Also, IMO, I wouldn't rely on that bumper for too much towing!
General reference: I installed a Draw-Tite (75073) hitch. No drilling, just have to remove/replace a few frame bolts. It's a nice looking piece and barely noticeable installed. It was about $120.00.
Hey, you guys might want to check out these links when you have time:
http://www.intenseperformance.com/
http://www.autoguide.net/
About the whine some of you guys are hearing - the '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 was reported, by many owners according to their forum here on Edmunds, to have big problems with a whine from their differential. The problem became so bad that Jeep went to another vendor to provide a better piece of equipment (different metals used I think, etc). Dana was one vendor, but I can't remember if that was the "bad" one or the "good" one and surely don't know if the same type differential is used by the QC. But many folks had their diffs replaced, some several times. Hope you guys don't have the same problem. The 2000 JGC supposedly has the "new" ones.
At this point, all I needed to do was haul a riding lawnmower and cart on a snowmobile trailer for 75 miles. A major portion of this was at 60 mph. Have to believe that the total package was in the 1,000 - 1,500 pound range.
Everything went well. Didn't hear any odd noises and there's no bent metal. Handling was a little different but nothing that would give anyone "white knuckles". The 4.7, 5 sp, 3.55 LSD, 4x4 did a great job. I just have to figure out how to back up.
The bed extender I bought came from my local Honda bike shop. I got it for $170 and installed it at home in about 15 minutes. caveat: the factory extender is a 'bit' shinier, and a 'bit' deeper, meaning it extends a few inches further back on the tailgate (and intrudes the same into the bed when flipped inwards). I prefer the aftermarket 1 (who builds the factory 1 anyway). Ask your bike parts guy for the Amp Research (small) model from Tucker Rocky's catalog if you go that route. :-)
BED EXTENDER:
It may already have been mentioned, but J.C. Whitney retails a bed extender for Dakota and other compacts (stock #07VE6332U) at $179.95. Don't know much about the unit... Just another option.
AIR LIFTS:
Getting into the "boring" stuff this week on upfitting the Quad... Hooking up the electronic trailer brake controller, getting a different hitch bar with less drop, running wiring to the cabin to connect to the closed-circuit TV camera on the back of the trailer.
Thinking also of fitting the truck with bladder-type air lifts on the rear axle. The QC has considerably more rear overhang than the old SB Ram, and I'm anticipating more "squat" at the rear.
Has anyone had any experience with the air lifts? If so, what brand? What were the results? Any advice?
Any/all comments appreciated!
Going to Arkansas this weeekend. Does anyone know what the price of gas is around Sikeston, Mo and farther into Arkansas (Little Rock)?
Currently 76.8 cents per litre here - working on an approximation of 3.8 litres per US gallon and an exchange rate of C$1 = US$0.68 that works out to be $1.985 per gallon.
Incidentally, a UK poster on the Jaguar e-mail list I subscribe to reported a price of GBP4.04 per gallon for Premium - at the rate of 1 UK gallon = 1.12 US gallons and GBP1 = US$ 1.51, that's US$5.45 per gallon!!
ted61: I am from Lakewood, Oh but now in Atlanta. Being an Indians fan in Atlanta in not easy. Tell me what is wrong with the tribe? I know there are alot of pitcher and others on the DL, but what else is wrong.
I was in Montreal yesterday for the F1 Grand Prix, and the gas prices there were 84.9 cents/L - about $2.18 US /Gal!
For those who are curious, I'm getting 16.8 - 20.8 mpg in my Ranger 2wd 5sp 2.9L. If you guys are really getting mileage in the 17mpg range, than I should consider that Dakota I test drove (post 360). Little leary of the v8's thirst for fuel, and Ford is coming out with a 210hp 4.0L Ranger this fall. That Ranger should be 10% cheaper, get 10% better mileage, and perform equal to a V8 Dakota. Waiting for my back-pay cheque before the serious shopping begins for a new truck...
Fuel cost: In Oklahoma and Kansas we are paying 1.75-1.80 and rising. The hard part for us is that we are used to be one of the cheapest parts of the country to fill at and now are 20-30 cents higher than average. OOOOUch.
I have a major headache with the reformulated gasoline. I have a 73 Dodge motor home (360) that I have been working on for a while after my Dad 'donated' it to me. We have been spending the past few weeks putting it back together to loan a friend who was in a pinch. We had to take it up to Salina, KS on Sunday, a 200 mile trip and the thing has not be on the road for two years. We have keep everything operational though. We hit the Wichita area and I had not considered that the area would be using reformulated gas (ethanol). With no options, we filled up. Fifteen miles later, it started backfiring. The last 100 miles was interrupted by occasional backfiring and then when we got there, the engine died and was hard starting and would not maintain off-idle under load. We are hoping that a fuel filter change will help the cause when we move it in a couple of months, but we may be looking at a fuel tank flush and a carb rebuild. Reformulated gas is a mixed bag for the newer vehicles, but hell on the older, little used vehicles.
The only break I'm getting is that I have a 2wd with the standard tires. Computer says I'm at 23.2 MPG with 240 miles on this tank. I haven't passed anything in a week. I'm trying for the best tank ever right now (6,600 miles on the truck)
Ozark - Let me know what you are going to do with the extended warranty. I'm on track for around 30,000 miles a year right now. No change unless I find a job closer to home.
With US$1 = C$1.47 it makes things seem worse - at a more historic level of US$ = C$1.30 the example I gave before becomes US$2.245.
Does that make you feel better?
Wonder if this has any thing to do with the EPA wanting to "hammer" the large SUV market?
or with the Exxon/Mobile merger? they are now THE largest production/exporation/retail oil company in the world.
Just speculation . . .but you never know!
Trying to find some solace in the situation... And the wife (bless her) e-mailed me a quotation from baseball great Dizzy Dean:
"It puzzles me how they know what corners are good for gas stations!... Just HOW did those fella's know there was gas and oil under there!?"
Enjoy the Quads all!
Ah well... Guess we'll find out soon enough!!!
Hope you're not bored with the Quad already!!!
Mr. UPS just brought me the hard-copy catalog from Trail Blazers for Dodge Truck... Will enjoy that in lieu of desert after dinner tonight, and pass on anything interesting (or cheap)...
Talked to my niece in Omaha and they are charging $1.759 where she works in Council Bluffs Iowa(they buy it at $.50 by the way).
Am averaging 14.8 on my Quad 4X4 with the 4.7 5spd, 3.92. I'm sure if I wasn't in central Texas running the A/C it would be a bit better. Though the new A/C compressors are much more efficient then they used to be.
Still in love with this thing after 7200 mi, just changed the oil to Castrol Syntec and will change the rest of the drive train to synthetics before heading up to the YOOP in July. My mom is paying over $2.00 in Ontonagon by the way.
Also installed a Reese 36047 hitch on my '99 Dakota. Very easy install and looks great.
My 2 cents.
BTW- I originally purchased my wiring "T" adapter from Wal Mart and have since returned it to purchase the Reece brand "T" adapter. The Reese unit was $22.99, while the Walmart unit (another name brand) was $3.000 more. Price wasn't the motivator. The Reese unit brings the grond wiring from the lights back to the trailer plug. The other brand only connect to the "hot side". I wanted to use the ground for lighting on the trailer rather than the ball and frame.
Anyone else observing the slight "binding"click in
the steering column, or attempted to have it
fixed? There is a TSB out for this situation but I have failed to address it because it did not
initially occur very often and that it did not
appear to physically restrict steering wheel
movement. I ask now because it does occur
multiple times daily.
I notice it mostly well after completing a tight
turn at corners, or situations similar to backing
out of the driveway etc. in either direction. At
some point later after I am moving forward in a
straight line and I need to adjust the steering
wheel to the opposite direction, it will click.
It is supposedly due to slight misalignment of the
steering column linkage and is addressed by
repositioning a 4 bolt saddle clamp at the
underside of the dash. I became aware of the TSB
back when we were researching a printout of the
infamous "engine ticking" several months ago. My
brother-in-law (owns a repair shop)subscribes to a
site where he noticed it and mentioned it. At the
time I was not too interested but may proceed with
the fix.
In fact, for those interested, the web-site is
available but you must pay if you wish to stay
abreast of the recent (past year or so) TSBs. I
know the quarterly CD is about 3-6 months behind
the dealership, but the site may be up-to-date.
If my memory works the site is www.alldata.com
I'm just now getting to the towing issue with the QC. The trailer is a 14-foot enclosed tandem axle (Pace) weighing in at about 2,250#. Throw a couple of Harleys, tools, luggage, fishing gear, etc. in, and I'm pulling 5,000 or better total.
'Till now, I've been towing with a '95 Ram 4X SWB /w/ towing package and 5.9 engine. The trailer is very well balanced (close to 60%front and 40% rear), but under certain driving conditions (dips/rises at highway speed) would create a very mild lift at the front end... Nothing to worry about.
Her comes the QC, just 300# lighter than the Ram, but with significantly more rear overhang. I won't know whether I have a potential problem until I have the trailer in tow... But I suspect that I may be looking for a reasonably economical way to keep the rear-end squat to a minimum.
Any/all suggestions are appreciated!
STEERING TICK:
I haven't experienced a steering tick with the QC, but I DID with the Ram. I took it in, and the dealer corrected the problem under warranty. Within two months, I received a recall notice from Chrysler to correct a steering problem... Don't know whther it was related to the "ticking," but it may well have been.
Ozark, thank you for your belated congratulations.
Cowtownaggie, great news, enjoy!
Spike, I rented a trailer once using my wife's SUV
and had all kinds of intermittent problems using the ball to make ground. Ran a single stranded wire from the trailer tongue to the receiver, and Presto! no more malfunctions.
Towcrazy, spent the last five days at our beach house, and forgot to load my lap top. Had a great Father's day with my two sons and their brides. Tow, gasoline is around $1.55-9/10 to $1.58-9/10 in PA and $1.49-9/10 in Southern, NJ. Mileage is pushing 19MPG at this point because of the relatively flat roadways traveled in NJ.
Bookitty
As an alternative, Mopar's base system for the Quad is about $200 then you have to add a "Water Sports" package for $100+.
BTW the headliner is beige and recently got a 17.9 mpg. I'm going to write down the mileage so I'll know when I get back.
My question is about the filters. I'd like to know the part number of the Mobil 1 filter for the 4.7 L since the reference book at the oil filter shelf only goes to 1998. I'm sure someone knows this.
Bookitty
I is a light weight, Weight Distrubution system for use with lighter weight trailers, utility trailers and fold-down campers. No chains or snap-up brackets are necessary and 350 Mini works with any 2" receiver. The sway control is built right in with the hitch ball included. Maximum tongue weight capacity of 350 lbs. and gross trailer weight of 3,500 lbs.
The following web site is where it can be located. http://www.reesehitch.com/weightdist_lite.html
Also, this unit lists for $205, and could possibly be special ordered from WalMart at a fair discount, similar to Raptor01's hitch purchase.
jcody1- when requesting input on steering clicking, I may not have mentioned it, but my truck is a 2000 Quad Cab 2WD with the rack and pinion. It sound like they have not completely resolved the problem after all. Thanks for the response.
http://www.rv-news.com/current/dc.htm
BTW, this page is sponsored by Reese. The main site (rvamerica.com) is a great source for tow vehicle information.
I think the mileage will improve after break-in if I can keep it out of town & on the Highway.
Bookitty - I will end up running 2 tanks of gas w/the Marvel Mystery Oil added. I would hope that is enough. Did your mileage increase when you went to staight gas w/out the MMO?
My quad is 4x4, 4.7L, 5spd, 3.55 lsd rear and A/C running ALL the time!
Cowtown Aggie
Another solution that's a little more beefier and can handle multiple boats can be found at www.bedrack.com
Spike - the # is M1-204, same as last year's Grand Cherokee 4.7 engine. Oh, and if I get over the flu by Thurs. I'll be in the Sangre de Cristos this weekend doing some 'stuff' on some 'gizmos' I sold to a site near a place called Las Alamos... ;-)
a_j - I've been researching this pretty dutifully for everyone since I'm in the industry. My initial findings into the Midwest's (and other areas') higher prices are these: Refiners were hedging on prices (to them) dropping about 20 - 25% as OPEC increased supplies to them just before the summer refining runs. Some increases came, but other factors hit them hard, especially in the Midwest. Some of the component chemicals used to make the methanol mix required by certain states and the EPA were simply not available, or were not ordered sufficiently to meet the demand - I'll know which later this week. AND cleaner burning fuels do NOT cost the additional 3 - 8 cents per gallon that the current administration tells us. The UNOCAL patents alone add a nickel to every gallon of the stuff, PLUS the infrastructure to create it is constantly in a state of flux - exactly as 'certain' factions in the federal government want. I'm stopping here because I see a sign post up ahead... It says: "Jack's soapbox." :-O
Quick, right turn!