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I did my first oil change and didn't have any problem getting the factory filter off. I use one of those oil filter wrenches that fits right over the filter and attaches to a standard socket wrench. Works great. Worth a few bucks. By the way what is the 2 liter bottle approach? I think I missed that one.
Just passed 5000 miles. No problems except for a strange factory CD player "this is only a test" sound early on that went away after I turned off the truck and never came back. 17-18 mpg city, 20 mpg on a recent 200 mile road trip from Melbourne Beach to Bunnell, Fla. that put me over the 5K mark.
In regards to the check engine light, mine came on again yesterday morning. Got a code P0456 out of the system. This is a small leak in the evaporative emissions control system. I pulled the negative battery cable for 30 sec. This cleared the code and it hasn't been back since. I got this same code about 1 month ago. If it keeps happening I'll have drag it back to the dealer.
As an update to my previous post, to get the OBD codes out you need to switch the ingition key from off to on three times, ending in the on position. It seems that you need to make the three cycles in about 2-3 seconds. Faster or slower doesn't work.
Other than this really minor issue I am very happy with the truck, even if I don't get to drive it much. The way we're driving it, it shouldn't be too long before we hit 10K miles.
As you probably realized after your first oil change, when you take the filter off your hand gets drenched in oil as you reach through the small access hole under the truck. To alleviate this problem take a standard 2 liter plastic coke bottle, cut off the bottom, which basically leaves you with a crude funnel. Make sure you leave the cap on the bottle. After you have loosened the filter enough where it won't leak but can now be removed by hand, slip the 2 liter bottle through the access hole so that it covers the whole filter. Since the bottle is flexible you can use it to unscrew the filter completely which will cause it to drop right into the bottle. Hold it there for a minute or two and then pull the bottle out of the hole and then you can unscrew the bottle cap to drain the oil into your oil storage tank. It worked great for me the first time I tried it.
Per the factory filter: I naively thought I would be able to remove the filter by hand so I was a little torqued b/c I didn't own a filter wrench and didn't have another vehicle to get to the parts store. Had to ride my bike up to the store, clerk gave me the appropriate oil filter wrench and headed back home. Come to find out he gave me the wrong sized wrench which didn't work. Boy was I po'd. I repeated the process and luckily got the correct wrench the 2nd time. Ended up being a 2 1/2 hour oil change. The next one should take 30 minutes or less.
What the hell is wrong with those clowns at the factory anyway? That is why there is a gasket on there so you don't have to crank the living bejezus out of it to keep it from leaking.......
Guess the fellows up at Dodge City have never had to change an oil filter on a Dak.
Regarding your initial filter predicament, look on the bright side. You got in some great aerobic exercise and you got almost every drop of the old oil out of your engine by letting it drain for 2 hours!
Thanks,
Travis
I've got a 25' travel trailer, weighs in at about 5300 lbs. I've been wanting a QC for more than a year now, but am concerned about it being able to realistically tow my camper. We've towed this TT with an '00 4.7L Grand Cherokee and a '97 4.6L V8 F150 w/3.55 R&P gearing. The '00 GC's 4.7L proved to be marginal for towing this TT with headwind resistance proving to be the biggest problem (on a flat highway with no wind it was actually OK), my F150's 4.6L can only do the job with a tailwind and if you've got headwinds forget it. I don't know what the axle gearing is on our Grand Cherokee. The QC I'd get would be (probably) a 4.7L 4x4 with 3.92 axle gearing, towing pkg, and the wheel and tire pkg.
So my question is... can the 4.7L + 3.92 axle gearing do the job? Anybody out there tow similar weight with this setup? If so, what kind of mileage do you see on the highway and how is the power? I'm not so much concerned with mileage while towing as I am with range. Our 4.7L GC gets 6-8 MPG while towing, and with a 20 gallon tank that puts us at a gas station more often than I like. What I'm shooting for is a compromise. We tow this TT about 6 or 8 times per year, the rest of the time this pickup will be my daily driver. What that means is that I can live with things like the range issue, but if it doesn't have to power to maintain 60-65 MPH on the rolling hills of an interstate (I-40 in western TN for example) then I need to be thinking of something with more power and unfortunately fewer MPG on my daily commute.
Thanks for any input.
--
Merl, Tejas
Typically I tow the trailer at 60-65 mph. Depending on the terain I get from 9-11 mpg. I take the trailer out 10-14 times a year, usually traveling about 300 miles round trip. The rest of the year it is my commuter vehicle (75 miles a day) and 2nd family vehicle. For my purposes this truck does everything I hoped it would do, and more. I looked at the Ford Supercrew but liked the Dodge better (better size and cheaper). Good Luck
P.S. Thanks to iowabigguy for your very detailed information.
Diesels are nice if you get enough use out of them, but in most cases, the gas cost difference does add up.
I really don't want a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, it looks to me like I should be able to find a 1/2 ton pickup configured to do this job. I have also been considering the SuperCrew with a 5.4 and axle gearing lower than the 3.55 that my current 4.6L F150 has, but I've been driving my Ford for 5 years now and am ready for a change. I don't really like the new Ram, and the 4 door Chevy 1/2 ton is actually longer than the SuperCrew (I've got garage fitment issues as it is).
I know this has been asked before but I haven't heard... Is Dodge going to put the 4.7L HO into the Dakota? Or the 5.7? and if so, when? If I could get the extra torque that the 4.7 HO puts out (vs. the standard 4.7) in a QC I'd already be driving one.
Merl, Tejas
A weak battery gets excessivly discharged when you start the engine... then puts a big load on the alternator (thus the belt) for a short time immediatly after starting the engine. The heavy load on the belt can make it slip and squeal right after starting the engine.
A belt that slips like this does not spin the alternator properly. This causes the battery to not charge properly and creates even MORE of a load on the belt. It is a slippery slope that ends up with either a broken belt or a dead battery over time.
Mow many miles do you have on the belt? Perhaps it is time to replace the belt.
THIS PAST WEEK I HAD TO BRING MY ATV DOWN FROM MY BROTHERS. ALL 650 POUNDS PLUS! AFTER DRIVING MY DAKOTA FOR 200 MILES WITH THIS THING ON IT.... I NO LONGER HAVE ANY MORE SQUEAKS,RATTLES.. NOTHING!!!ANY IDEAS GUYS?
ALSO, JUST BECAUSE A SHOW VEHICLE HAS A PARTICULAR NAME, ie: THE M80, DOESN'T MEAN IT MIGHT NOT SHOW UP AS THE NEW DAKOTA! MY SOURCES SAY THERE WILL BE A NEW DAKOTA. IT IS TOO GOOD OF A SELLER TO STOP MAKING IT!
The 4.6L in the Ford is completely inadequate as a tow engine. Had one in a '98 and the thing was ready to blow with 50K on it. I towed about 4000# with it maybe twice a month and it just couldn't handle it. I now tow 12,000# and up with a cummins diesel and it's like night and day compared to towing with a small vehicle. I wouldn't recommend a diesel or 3/4 ton truck though for someone towing 5000# a few times a year. Unless you're doing alot of very steep mountain passes the Dak chassis can handle it fine. Anyone towing much over 3000# on a regular basis (my '01 Ram has 70K on it, 80% towing) needs a 3/4 ton or larger vehicle for durability and safety IMHO.
BTW: The activity on this board has sure dropped in the past few months. Where did everyone go?
Hope this helps you.
Lee
Anyway, remove the visor and place an evenly wet (not dripping)washcloth over the sticker. Take an iron set on medium and heat the washcloth that is placed over the sticker until it begins to steam. Heat the complete wash cloth area over the sticker! Now, very slowly (Slowly!) peel off the sticker. Right away, IF any adhesive residue remains gently (gently!) rub it off with the hot, wet wash cloth. Use caution with the rubbing as to not damage the material. I then dry with a hair dryer set at low and held at a distance. After dry, wipe the visor with a dry soft cloth to get the texture all going one way. NOTE: Never place the iron directly on the sticker and be sure the complete sticker is evenly heated/steamed prior to the SLOW removal of the sticker.
Bill in NY Geeeez, looks so much better!
1. be the first to put a real bed on the truck.. skrew cutting it because of the crew cab . make it 7ft and get it over with
2. both front seats power
3 all seats heated
3. key less entry.. keypad on door.
4 lock able tailgate
5. needs more cup holders.. and big enough for the largest cups
6. auto headlights.. never want to turn them on or off
7. integrated cell phone that can be configured wiht the same tele # as your reg cell phone..
7. make the rd awd for us new englanders
Get a full size RAM if you need a 7 foot bed. Recall the dak once came with an 8 foot bed but was dropped due to poor sales.
Heated seats are nice but they add to cost & will further stress an already stressed 12V system. Which is why a 42V system is being looked at by nearly all auto manufacturers.
Ever have to fix a keyless entry system? I had to have one fixed on a Taurus, waited three weeks for the part and the screw up kept me from opening the drivers door. Kinda fun to do the Bo Duke (or was it Luke?) slide over the hood to the pass door though.
WHy auto headlights? Aren't we all intelligent enough to know when to turn them on and off? Might as well have auto radio too so we don't have to turn it off either.
If you take the biggest, baddest cupholders then how doyou keep a smaller cup from getting lost and tipping over?
Power seats? Get a Lincoln or something. This is a truck after all.
Cell phone? Don't even go there. I'm tired of near collisions with bozos who see the need to "be connected" while they are driving. Nonetheless, I have become adept at swerving to avoid those thoughtless, cluless souls who "didn't see that red light" I have a thought, try getting connected with your vehicle first. You can always yap on the phone later. And I thought teenagers were phone hogs.
A lockable tailgate has merit only if you have a cap or hard cover. Should the rest of us lock our tailgates too? Maybe we could get DC to make it "auto lock" (like auto headlights)
Bookitty
But one thing I WOULD change on the DAK deign.. is that very annoying lock setup on the rear doors. Pulling the handle should UNLOCK them as in the front. If we want the childproof safety; use the little switch in the side panel.
That was a 2 beer thought mopar67 ;-)
1200 on the hamster, no problems. Wish it had more oooooomppph though. But I knew that when I bought it.
Question: I saw a new Explorer (not even tagged) this morning. It had a light weight (factory?)hitch on it, with probably a 1 7/8" ball. An arm on the ball mount (part of the unit) went to the driver's side a few inches and had a teeny ball (less than 1") mounted. Anybody got a clue what this is about?
Bookitty
FYI: I have the hard, folding tonneau cover; has lock at both ends (ie. locks tailgate). I've had my 2001 QC SLT-Plus for @ 1 1/2 years. Glad I got the folding cover!
Btw - I did lock up the spare tire so that never takes a walk.
mfarber: Run, don't walk to another dealer or mechanic. The mug you are using oblviously doesn't have a clue and is selling you services you don't need.
Bookitty
My truck has been in the shop for over two weeks and will take at least another two to get back.
So, I get a rental car. They don't have the car as promised so they "upgrade" me to a Quad Dak 4wd. OK--same price as car. I didn't drive that truck 10 miles to get home and decided as soon as mine gets out of the shop its being sold and Dodge can kiss my tail. I'll never buy another Dodge. The 02 4wd has all the same problems my 01 2wd does. Squeaking brakes, snap crackle pop front end and an even worse ride. Its a shame because the Quad is functionally very good (except for its short bed). I was thinking about getting a quad ram becuase I'm sick of the problems with my truck. Now,--fuggedabowdit.
Sorry folks. If you love your trucks great. I love my family and have no "loyalty" to a car manufactorer. I'll take the burn on the trade in and get something else. I work my [non-permissible content removed] off for my money and expect quality for these overpriced vehicles.
At work we have a dodge Neon for use and its in the shop more than on the road. My advice, sell your stock in dodge, they're going out of business.
Kojak
my 2001 Quad. Did you install it? Where did you
purchase it. Brand?
How easy is the cover to remove?
How does it lock the tail gate? Any drilling to
install.
I've found two different brands.
The "K-Cover" and the "Fold-a-Cover"
both are around $495 plus shipping.
Thanks,
Mick
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
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