DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

jimt

I have 40,000 on my 01 Quad 4X4, 4.7, auto,3.92LS. Had dealer change front and rear dif. fluid to synthetic at 25,000.Had tans fluid changed also. Only problem was noise in steering column. I thought it was clock spring and they changed it and still had the noise. The dealer replaced column and no noise! Anyway, I would like to change plugs and I know Bosch plus-4 have been talked about in this forum. Any comments and a part# would be appreciated. My Napa did not have a listing. Thanks! JimT

bpeebles

(jimt) The Bosch +4 sparkplug for the 4.7 V8 Hemi is #4418.

I bought mine at NAPA, I am looking at the sales slip now. All 8 plugs came to 47.92 +tax.

Do not forget that you should use some silicone rubber grease on the coil O-rings and antiseeze grease on the plug threads.

jimt

jimt

I thought I posted this earlier, but seems it got lost. Thanks for the part # on spark plugs. I'm sure my Napa guys can make that work. I thought I read that you have upgraded front rotors and pads. Are you satisfied with change? My rotors are warped now and I would like to change out rotors and pads. Did you change lines to braided stainless? It seems the brakes are the one weakness of the truck. I did upgrade shocks to Edelbrock IAS and am very impressed with improved control and ride. Thanks again, JimT

tegwj

JimT --

Any further insight into those shocks? I've been looking at them too. Did you have to pay $69.95/ea or did you find a better deal somewhere?

Have you done any towing with them?

twj

bpeebles

(jimt) after about 600 miles, the brakes are still getting stronger as the pads bed in.


Although I did not consider the brake pedal "squishey" before... it ceartainly feels firmer too.


I consider the rotors now "seasoned" and I expect to move to "letting the smoke out" of the pads soon to finish up the break-in process.


http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html


----------
I did not change the brake lines.... are there braided SS available for the new frontend 4X4 design?

My truck had an encounter with a porkupine

(they love to "nibble" on salty things) I guess the salt-covered rubber brake hoses were tasty. They have "nicks" all over them. Not a 'safe' situation... a brake line may burst under emergancy braking conditions.

Thus, I am eager to find out more about SS lines

----------------


Did you do the Edelbrock IAS on all 4 corners? Be honest now... is there really that much difference? I have been considering them myself but am not clear on the benefits. Do you notice difference on the road or only while 4-wheelin?

Under what conditions do you feel there is improvement over OEM shocks?


I guess I am like tegwj .... wondering if the $70 apeace is worth it.

jimt

I have had the shocks(all 4 corners) for about 4 months. I really don't use the truck off road, but tow a boat regularly. The towed load is very close to the max rated for my truck. I find a much more controlled ride with these shocks. I have several speed bumps on a road leaving my house and there was a marked difference going over these (not towing). I can travel over them faster with better control and a less harsh response. I drive I-95 regularly, much of it being under construction and I felt a noticeable difference under those conditions. Unfortunately I payed more than the $70.00 apiece for them. At the time I could not find them cheaper, though now the prices seem to have dropped somewhat.

Regarding the SS brake hose I believe they are available.Praisedyno brakes may be one of the suppliers. I will try and check the adds again in Sport Truck mag and find the supplier. Hope this answers some of the questions about the shocks. JimT

bluebayou

The stock shocks are junk!!! Soft yes, durable no!

I just replaced all four corners with the "performer" shock at 20,000 miles (01 QC 4.7 T&H 4x4). What a huge improvement. I tend to drive fast (not crazy fast, just quick) and the stock shocks were bouncing me all over the place. The front end was making all kinds of funky sounds as the big tires hit pot hole after pot hole on our Ohio roads. It was time for a change!! Origianally the stock shocks were adequate. ample performers, but nothing to rave about.

I too was skeptical of the "Ricor" inertia sensing valve. It reacts to force, speed, and inertia.... Blah Blah Blah! I too have been a sucker for advertising claims, so I did some research. I wanted a multi valved shock Ie: Billsteins, Edelbrocks, MonoMax, etc. They don't make Billsteins for QC's, so those were out, Monomax were 60 - 65 each. Nobody makes the claim that Edelbrock does, and they have a 30 day money back gaurantee. So what the Heck!!

All I can tell you is WOW!!! I am a firm believer in these shocks now. Hit a big hole and the shock lets the wheel come up down and thats it. Really dampens the big hits. Stomp on the brakes and the front doesn't dive. Put your foot in it and the [non-permissible content removed] doesn't squat! The ride is firm, with little to no jarring. The shock really does open up (???) for the big hits and stands firm when the body want to move. I don't know how they did it, but it lives up to my expectation. The front end noises have quieted down considerably too. I think that I've got a control arm bushing, maybe a ball joint going bad... imagine that! lol!

I do not know if the twin tube shock would work on the front of a 4x4. The single tube (performer) were a pretty tight fit due to their inverted design.

Blue

troutarm2

My rotors warped at 20,000 miles and I had them resurfaced then 2 months later they were warped again. How much are a pair of powerslot rotors for the quadcab 4wd, 4.7? Dodge tried telling me that this doesn't happen often. The other day when I went to brake I ended up in the middle of an intersection because the brakes weren't catching well becuase of the warpage. Isn't this a safety issue that Dodge should inspect?

mopar67

May or not may be a safety defect but certainly qualifies and a product development/engineering defect. I had my rotors replaced four times in the miserable 26,000 miles I owned the rig....the drums too. Which is one reason I no longer own it.

You see engineers come up with the design and the necessary materials to achieve a pre determined level of performance and durability. All fine and dandy. Then the beancounters, always watchful of budgets and constantly looking to cut costs, with one move of an eraser, cut the development/parts procurement budget. Engineering then is forced into one compromise after another to meet curtailed, often absurd cost cuts. The unhappy result is a product which comes under budget more or less but is fraught with defects and substandard parts.

I offer Dodge Dakota rotors and drums as exhibit A.
The finance guy who cuts twenty five cents off the cost of a five dollar part is hailed as a hero and receives bonues/stock options as a reward. Sometimes he even gets a promotion to product planner or marketing analyst. Joe Blow, the customer, receives grief after he owns his vehicle for a while. WOrd gets out on shoddy quality, parts that wear out with alarming frequency, and sales begin a slow but noticeable decline. Sales groups, the people charged with "moving the iron", cook up a neat marketing ploy to help move that iron in the form of rebates or low cost (sometimes no cost) financing.
Corporate profits begin to decline and the cash saved in cutting the development budget is frittered away on P.T. Barnum style marketing. Sales continue to decline which leaves less money available for future product development....ad infinitum.......

bpeebles

You are, of course, 100% correct. In the search for quick-cash-in-the-pocket, the long-term financial health of a company is often put in jeperady.

More and more today, corporations look at the STOCKHOLDERS as the customers. It appears, looking at current trends of the stock market, that this short-term strategy is starting to take its toll on many. After bleeding a company dry of its REAL cashflow (the paying customers) there is not much that the beancounters can do.

hairydog

There is a current 10% discount on Fumoto oil drain valves. They work great, especially those of you who have skid plates. Had my valve on for 30k and no problems. Makes changing oil a breeze.
Use code YM3 for your discount. www.fumotovalve.com

skillam1

All - starting to look into buying a used Quad cab. Anything in particular I need to be on the lookout for? Any big quality differences between 2000-2001? Also - how easily can you fit a "quad" in the back of these "Quads"? I assume I'll need one of those bed-extenders - but will one fit even then? Any input would really be appreciated. I thought about looking through the posts but between this and the owners forum it would take like a month...

tegwj

There were some detail changes in the interior between 2000 and 2001 -- all the Dakotas and Durangos got a revised dash layout, door trim, electrical switch layout (windows, mirrors etc), new 4wd engagement mechanism. Engines and trannies are the same.

The bed dimensions are widely available and will tell you if your quad will fit. There are tiedowns so you might end up without the bed extender, and just lash the quad down snugly. The bed extender slightly reduces the effective width of the tailgate opening, and without it you could sit the centerline of the quad's axle a bit farther back on the open tailgate -- there's a few inches to play with, which might be enough.

Mine (and many others) has poor-quality front brake rotors. Paritcularly frustrating on mine is that you can feel the warping get exaggerated as the brakes warm up.

twj

dustyk

I have loaded my 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 4x4 onto my son's 1991 Dakota regular cab short bed a number of times and it fits, meaning that we can close the tailgate and the ATV won't be hitting the rear window. I don't know what the lenght demension is on his truck. The fit is a little tight. I would recommend that you provide some method of ensuring that the ATV doesn't slide into the rear window.

Be advised that the Dakota Quad, however, has the shortest bed. I don't believe you will be able to close the tailgate with a standard size utility-class ATV. The width will be fine.

Good Luck,
Dusty

bpeebles

In additon to the obvious interier updates and the electronic transfer case shift starting in 2001, some other differences between these 2 years of Dakota is that DC (Damiler-Chrysler) started some cost-saving tactics between these years.

Some of the changes were purley cosmetic such as the 2001 not having any engine badging on the front fenders. Some of the changes were to not install such underhood things as the hood-insulation and the rubber airdam on the passenger side of the radiator. I also understand that somtine in 2001 the full-size (matching all others) spare was replaced with a mini-spare. (The cost of one wheel/tire is well over $200)

DC also started to use a new synthetic transmission fluid after the 2000 model year in the 45RFE tranny. This improved the maintenance schedule for that tranny significantly.

Quality differences? I would say that the fin-n-finish quality went down but the (more important) details improved such as the improved oil-filler on the 4.7L and the above mentioned synth tranny fluid.

Also in 2001, ALL 4.7L dakotas received the "border states emmissions package" with the tripple catalytic converters. The HP rating went down due to this.

Front brake rotors are JUNK on ALL of them... plan on installing quality rotors with low-dusting pads.

This is all from (fading) memory...
does this answer some of your questions?

saskquad

I have a 2001 Dakota Quad that I have hauled my 2000 Yamaha Kodiak 4x4 in . The back tires sit on the gap between the box and the endgate (endgate open). I didn't use a bed extender , I just tied it to the rear tiedowns with adjustable straps. The rack does sit close to the rear window . My 225 trike fits right in with the endgate closed( snug fit ).

skillam1

Hey - great input! I really appreciate it - Been looking around, saw 1 2000 that looked a bit iffy, and drove a new one as well. I think I'll wait a bit and keep an eye out for a used 2001, if none show probably bite the bullet and go new. A friend just got a tubular extender on his Frontier, and it seems very handy even when fipped in. You can pack stuff in by the tailgate and not have it roll around. Shoot take that and combine with a removable toneau and you've almost got a real trunk. Anyway - getting pretty stoked about this purchase, it'll be tough to be patient.. If anyone on CO has one they are getting rid of let me know.. Looking for 4.7 Auto, tow pkg, bench seat.

dskoczylas

In the last couple of days my 2001 Quad with 14,000 miles on it, has been taking a long time to start. It cranks about 15 seconds before it catches. I put new plugs in this weekend but nothing has changed. Anyone else have a similar problem? and what was the fix. I hate going to the dealer only to have them say they found nothing wrong.

Kirstie_H

Do you drive a Chevrolet Suburban or the Dodge Dakota Quad Cab? If so, and if you're willing to talk with a major daily newspaper about your truck, please send your vehicle info and contact info including phone number by noon Eastern on Tuesday, July 2 to jfallon@edmunds.com. Thanks!

kmmand

Hi all. I have a 2002 Quad Cab. Pat.blue, 5speed manual, 6 cyl, 2WD, air, cruise, tow, manual locks and windows. We bought it in December '01. In April '02 at about 9000miles, I brought it in to the dealer because the clutch squeaked (sounded like I had doves in the car), because there was a loud clicking sound like when you run out of oil - except there was plenty of oil and because the digital clock was running fast by about a minute per week. They found excessive heat damage and wear on the clutch and had to replace the clutch cylinder. No I don't ride the clutch. AND they discovered that the lifter bores were machined incorrectly at the factory and had to replace the lower engine block. Okay, we had that done. Picked up the truck Tues. night. Drove into work Wednesday morning with two kids in the back and twelve miles into my 30 mile trip, we were stuck on the side of the road with a really bad smelling vehicle. It had a bad piston in the new engine. So they replaced again. I also had a sick feeling when I stomped the brakes in traffic the other day. I don't know if I'm just paranoid, but they didn't feel quite right. I have the willies about this truck, so the dealer has found another 2002 for me and I was going to exchange, when he told me the new truck had arrived without a reverse, and they had to put in a new transmission. So does Dodge make a Dak that can drive, or do I just have the worst luck on earth? I really like the truck as far as how it carries my kids and my stuff, and how it looks. Any comments, and what should I do? Keep the truck with its third engine or take the truck with it's 2nd transmission??? Thanks so much for your help.

hasel

You are having bad luck, take the New truck .

quaddub

I would love to talk about my Quad, and may even allow this "major daily newspaper" to take my picture, as long as they don't request removal of my veil ;-)

kmmand - sorry about your truck/lemon. Go for a new one! Don't take possesion of truck #2 - they need to make this right.

slickwilliedj

I posted this concern more then a year ago when i first took delivery of my 01 white sport,q/c 2wd 4.7 auto, lsp dif, 4whl antilock,t&h pkg,etc

ok anyone evernoticed on their q/c's especially on the 2wd versions that the right rear tire sticks out about 1/2in - 3/4in from the fender well then the left, (in otherwards the axle is offset to the right)?... noone seems to have a logical explanation for this and I have noticed this one others in parking lots around town and fresh off the dealer lot so I know mine is not special.... very noticable without fender flairs. have not had any abnormal tire ware and truck tracks fine....

dustyk

Anyone know what was the first year of the 4.7 engine in the Dakota?

Regards,
Dusty

bookitty

Dusty, the 2000 Dakota was the first year that the 4.7 was made available (as far as I know). That year offered a choice in 8 cylinder engines of the 4.7L or 5.9L.

Bookitty

dustyk

Did the 4.7 get the larger throttle body in 2001 or 2002?

Dusty

sunburn

Dusty - I believe the larger throttle body came out in 2001. The size went from 65mm to 68mm. I know that there are aftermarket TBs in 70mm and 72mm sizes.

dustyk

Hey, thanks for the quick response. Really appreciate the info.

Are larger throttle bodies available for the 318 vintage Dakota and RAM pickups? Any idea on cost?

Thanks in advance,
Dusty

bpeebles

(dustyk)
There are several choices on the market. For the 4.7L V8 one can opt for a larger Flometrics TB from SpeedTweaks
but the diameter of the intake system changes too... forcing one to spend even MORE $$.

A MUCH less expensive route is to choose a FASTMAN TB that is a modified stock unit.

Since the TB on th 4.7L V8 ONLY has to flow air, (fuel is injected at the valves) there is really NO technical difference between a larger billett TB or a modified stock unit. They are both just a venturi with a butterfly valve within.

Both the above companies offer TB products for the 318 V8,too.

dustyk

Hey, thanks for the info. I'm starting to see some used '98 & '99 RAM extended cabs (the one's with the suicide doors) and a couple have been in near primo shape. I've also seen a used Dakota Quad (34,000 miles, would you believe!). I could consider a used one if its in real good condition.

Thanks again,
Dusty

capitolason2

I am wondering if the old 3.9 liter, 175 horsepower V6 will be replaced by the newer 3.7 liter, 215 horsepower V6 that is currently used in the Jeep Liberty and the Ram regular cab in the Dakota in the 2003 model year. I hear some saying 2003 and some saying 2004.

barb123

Has anyone removed one of the rear folding seats??
I'd like to make more room back there and was thinking about removing the larger section but didn't know if it was doable or not. Looking to buy a 2002 QC 4x4 to replace our '96 Ranger . . .

tegwj

i looked into it but realized that the problem with storage back there isn't the seat so much (it doesn't take up much floor space once folded) but the lack of a flat load floor.

so i built a platform that sits level, with formed legs to accommodate all the bumps and dips on the floor pan. once installed i get a little over 4 square feet of flat solid space, plus additional space where the rear floor mat on that side would sit. the platform is elevated a bit to clear the high points, so there's a good six inches of "invisible" storage underneath it in that footwell area.

it's really a tremendously useful area. and if you need the rear seat it just lifts out and sits in the bed so the seat can go back into position.

twj

gator72

Hello Everybody,

I haven't logged on in a while. I see I haven't missed much.

Today, I took my 2001 QC SLT-Plus 4.7L, HD to the dealer because of poor fuel economy (down to 14 mpg from 15~16) and power has been falling off. Plus, the warm idle is unstable unless I turn on the A/C. The

Dealer said he did the following to fix the problems: Flash Module TSB# 18-003-02 AND Erase and reprogram the JTEC Powertain Control Module (PCM)with new software. I've only driven it a short distance. Can't distinguish a difference yet. Will keep you posted.

FYI: Several months ago, I installed a stone guard in the lower part of the front bumper - where the A/C condensor sits. Bought it from a company in California. My dealer liked it a lot and asked me where I got it. He commented that he has "more than a few" Dakota owners in for replacement of the condensor b/c of stones and road debris coming thru that opening.

02ramman

What kind of warm idle problems are you having? I've made a few posts on the ram side and was wondering if the 4.7l in the dakotas was also having idle problems. Please let me know.
Steve

bpeebles

You have perked my intrest...
Do you have a BRAND NAME for your lower valance gaurd?

gator72

It's a "Grillcraft Grill". I got it from Mantaray Motorsport Racing.

Their number is 1-888-542-3626. Their website is: www.mmrusa.com.

You can see the grill (black or silver) and detailed installation instructions (with pictures). I'm not mechanically inclined, but, was able to install it in about 30 minutes. It looks great. I'm very proud of the installation job I did.

gator72

Idle was high enough with a/c on (@ 1400 rpm). But, the idle was a little rough with a/c on.

With the a/c off, the idle speed was @ 500 rpm. While stopped at redlights or stop signs, the idle would dip to 400 rpm. Vehicle would shake violently. I'd bump the gas pedal slightly and idle would bounce back up to 500.

Gas mileage dropped to 14.3; down from 15~16 in town (with a/c on).

Like I said in my earlier post, the dealer reprogrammed the computer. A/C idle has smoothed out a lot. The non a/c idle is 600; no dips or stalls now.

Since it's only been a couple of days, I haven't measured my mileage. I'll wait 'til I fill up again.

02ramman

Thanks for responding. I have not had a high idle (1400with the A/C on), but the other idle with the A/C off sounds a lot like mine. I never bumped the throttle, just watched what it did.
Glad to hear that they've "fixed" yours so far. Can you get me the TSB # for your computer flash? It should be on the receipt or on a sticker under the hood showing an authorized modification.
Thanks for your reply
Steve

gator72

STEVE,

My Dealer's Invoice says they did the following to fix the problems:

"Flash Module TSB# 18-003-02" AND

"Erase and reprogram the JTEC Powertain Control Module (PCM) with new software".

02ramman

Thanks again for the info. Called service manager today and they are going to take a stab at fixing my problem next Wednesday.
Steve

nwdodgeguy

2001, 4.7L Auto Dak with 24,000 miles.

This is it's second trip to the shop.

I had:

2 oil leaks....rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced.

Tranny fluid leak.....Output shaft seal replaced

Left hub bearing loose.......replaced faulty bearings.

Don't buy this truck. Save up and buy the Tundra.

quadtex

I also have a 2001, 4.7L Auto Quad cab with > 24,000 miles. Consistently get average 18 mpg with AC on. I am sorry to read about the problems you are having with your truck. I have had a piece of plastic trim that came loose from the center arm rest and was fixed by the dealer, but other than that, no problems. Extremely satisfied with the Dakota Quad Cab.

Considered buying a Tundra but didn't because I had a 1 year old 4-Runner whose rear windshield wiper stopped working 1 month after buying the car. The molding on the sun roof also came loose and has been a continual source of problem. My QC has been everything I wanted and less trouble than the Toyota.

gator72

Back in August, I went to the dealer regarding poor idle. The dealer "flashed" my computer. (I've got the QC with 4.7 V8, auto tranny.

Engine idles much better BUT my MPG has dropped from 15~16 city down to 11~12 city (with A/C on).

As soon as I get time, I'm headed back to the dealer. I'll keep you posted.

FYI: I've been a big believer in the Dakota QC; but, I'm starting to wonder if I should trade it in on another brand of 4-door truck. Both Dodge dealers in my area (South Alabama) can't seem to get anything fixed the first trip. Don't get me wrong, they are friendly. But, "friendly" don't get the job done.

marsha7

some car magazine, they noted that 4 wheel disc brakes are now optional on Dakota...about time...every vehicle should have 4W disc brakes...

tegwj

I've outgrown my Quad! Got a bigger truck, so my '01 2wd is for auction on eBay. Details here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1867088553

thanks all,

twj

bookitty

Bob, I read your post, and while I may agree, four wheel disc brakes are optional on many vehicles, and some manufacturers do not offer them at all. I do believe that the stopping power on my 2000 Quad Cab is sufficient. Rear wheel disc brakes are exceptionally good if you are driving in reverse. But, like many other options, they are just that. I believe that all vehicles should have 4WD and LSD and V8 engines, but they also are options.

Bookitty

obyone

"Rear wheel disc brakes are exceptionally good if you are driving in reverse."

Rear wheel disk brakes are also exceptionally good when driving in wet conditions. As drum brake performance is substantially impaired when wet.

http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101/brake.html

bpeebles

(bookitty) Those of us that know what we are talking about stand firmly behind you. The above-quoted website has some distinct flaws in their technical document. Perhaps that is why it is labelled automotive 101

Disk brakes have their place... but so do drum brakes. Simply having disk brakes for the sake of having disk brakes is silly. I am glad that they are an 'option'. There is a reason that drum brakes are still used on REAL TRUCKS.

In reality, disk brakes save weight over drum brakes but are MUCH more susceptible to wet weather. Disk brakes also leave the black dust all over your wheels. Disk brakes also have inherent DRAG that drum brakes simply do not have.

The real reason that disk brakes are available is because they are a selling point.... nothing more than marketing.

Some of the other 'options' for the Dakota that are actually LESS VALUABLE (just an option for folks that want to spend money) are;

• 4 wheel ABS
  
• 'heavy-duty' option (only adds a power-steering cooler)
  
• full time 4 wheel drive (actually has LESS traction)
  

It is all about marketing...

Heck... even HONDA re-desighed the accord just to fit a V6 under the hood. The added weight actually handles worse and adds very little true value to the Accord. Honda only did this complete-redesign to add the V6 JUST TO COMPETE IN THE US MARKETPLACE.