I ordered my 2001 QQC for $300 over invoice. At the bottom there are 2 other charges:
B43 South Florida - PPA/EB-PF .... $235 D43 South Florida - PPA/EB-PF .... $260
They say its some retirement fund? Any input?
What ever you do join the Farm Bureau, for this you get a $500 deduct in addition to any other rebates. You have to be a member for 30 days before you take delivery. They say that its only like 3 - 4 week delivery on a ordered vehicle which is great.
Anyone with input on those 2 charges would be appreciated.
You might want to check Don Davis Dodge in Arlington. They are advertizing $3500 off all remaining 2000 Quads in stock. As mentioned prior I found their service, parts, and accessories shops very good. I actually end up purchasing a 2001 when I bought. As to contacting I went to all in person, just my personal preference, probably not best method. Iowabuggy probably has good advice to start a $4500 off for a 2000 at this point. As to Allen Samuels. I had a 2000 all picked out, price agreed to with salesman (and I thought salesmanage). Went that night with wife and $8000 cashiers check only to handed off to someone (500lb blob) who tried to give me some sad story about not making in profit and tried to change the deal. Needless to say I walk immediately, and it would appear, have made it my life's work to warn others of my misfortunes. The saleperson I met there was very nice, just can speak well of the overall style of the dealership.
I would like to know if anyone has replaced the stock muffler with an aftermarket one that gives the 4.7 a deeptone sound,and not spend an arm and a leg to get it.Or does anyone know what size muffler demensions are for size of inlet,outlet, and length so muffler could be replaced using rest of factory pipes.
I have a 4.7 4x4 QC and changed to a Borla cat-back exhaust system. Sounds and runs great.....not too loud but you, and everyone else, know who it's coming from. It's also a complete stainless steel systems which the stock one also is. Borla doesn't show a system for the 4.7 4x4 but they have it and it mounts perfectly to the stock locations with an awesome exhaust tip off the stock side.
I'm looking at purchasing a Dakota Quad Cab and have been reading the posts. I was wondering why the transmission should not be driven in O/D. Does this only apply to city driving or highway driving as well, and is there a specific reason for it?
I don't see any reason why someone would not drive their truck in O/D except for a couple circumstances. In all other cases, it should be just fine.
If you are towing, in mountains or actually anytime the transmission keeps shifting back and forth into overdrive, it will cause excessive heat in the transmission. This happens when the transmission is trying to find the best gear for a given load and speed. In that case, push the button to take it out of O/D until that particular terrain has passed.
Conversely, it won't cause any harm to NOT use O/D. Sometimes, that just works better, especially in towing circumstances.
Go for the Quad Cab. You won't be disappointed! Be sure to check out the posts under "Owners Clubs" as there are quite a number of good posts there regarding Quad Cabs.
Mario, as fat_fenders iterated, the only time it is inadvisable to use the overdrive is when towing, or on steep hills ascending/descending. It is not good to "lug" the engine, and that is what can happen when towing or climbing hills. The transmission begins to hunt, and constantly shifts down and up. Going down hills (especially when towing) by shifting out of overdrive you provide engine braking that helps keep vehicle under control. These are the restrictions that you have seen posted. Under most conditions, driving with overdrive engaged is just fine.
I've got a 01 Quad, 4.7 4sp auto, 3.55. Has anyone experienced their engine to cut out upon reaching 100 mph? The first time it took me by surprise (I thought a tire separated!). After coasting for a short distance (3-4 seconds) it came back to life. I tried it again and the same thing happen. Is this a bug or a feature? Thanks for any help! jeffp
I just placed my order for 2001 Dakota QC SLT+, 4.7l V8, multi-speed auto.. It's bright white with taupe interior; bucket seats/center console. It has SLT Plus Decor Group, HD Service Group, 4-wheel antilocks, fog lamps and power overhead convenience group. Dealer said it will be in within 5~6 weeks. AFTER I got home, I read the brochure more closely and discovered that horsepower has DROPPED from 235 last year to 230 this year. WHAT HAPPENED?
How do I track the progress of my QC? A while back, someone wrote that there is a number or website to contact. Does anyone know anything about this?
AFTER I signed the purchase order, my wife pointed out that the HD radiator is EXPOSED in the lower part of the front bumper. Sure enough, it is. Why doesn't Dodge place some kind of grille there to deflect stones? Road debris can be deadly to radiators! Is there an after-market insert available? THANKS
I have been looking for a good PU/Combo to meet my needs, like a Dodge Dakota QuadCab, and thought the QC was the answer until I commenced hearing and reading things about Chrysler and the QC. Because of this I have become very very discouraged and disillusioned about Chrysler products in general and the Dakota QC specifically. I have heard the following: 1) Ball joint problems. 2) A "clunking" noise in the steering. 3) Rear axle howl. 4) Fuel gage problems. 5) Terrible mileage with the 4.7L engine. My '91 5.7L Chev 1500 does much better. So does my wifes '90 Cad 4.5L CoupedeVille. 6) Multispeed transmission problems. 7) Fit and finish problems. 8) Freeway "hop" or "bounce". 9) Very harsh ride, even with the 2WD version. 10) Window lift motor problems. 11) No light gray interior for 2001. 12) Very unreliable!! 13) Etc., etc., etc., and it goes on. 14) Chrysler in financial trouble?!?!? Are these really problems and do they actually exist? I am very concerned and am now considering other alternatives. I wonder if DC ever accesses these websites and comments??
It is true, that the above problems have been encountered by a few people who own Dodge Dakota trucks. Of course, if you went on any informed forum for a given product you would hear similar stories not only about trucks and automobiles, but about any product manufactured by human beings. People use these forums to vent (as they should), so naturally, when someone is upset they are more likely to complain than when things are going well. It's sort of like a police officer's job; Nobody ever calls the police to tell them that all is well. So, what they ultimately end up hearing is all that is not well. If you are looking for a trouble free vehicle, I suggest you look at a Rolls Royce. Certainly they will have their own problems, but if you can afford one, they will make the problems as painless as is possible. I can appreciate your concerns, but the vast majority of posts are favorable, even when there are the "glitches" that appear throughout life that seem to haunt us. I have had good success with my current 4X4 Quad Cab with 4.7 and 5 speed, delivering 18-20 mpg per tank (no or little heavy city traffic) and other than an air bag sensor it has been trouble free. My previous Dakota, a 4X4 Club Cab 5.2 and 5 speed; ditto! I am not certain if D/C actually monitors these forum topics. They should, but who knows? My $.02.
when i ordered my 01 qc i saw the invoice with the following 2 charges above the destination fee. B41 New Orleans - PPA/EB-PF 230.00 T41 New Orleans - PPA/EB-PF 265.00 they were listed under FUNDS (retirement????) i would also like to know exactly what these funds are for. maybe somebody out there will know
Horsepower has dropped due to ALL 2001 dakotas having the triple catalyst exhaust system. In 2000, this was only on the "border states Emmisions" Dakotas.
According to my dealer, these are "zone advertising" costs that vary by region (for mine, it is $210 and $240). Supposedly, one line is to cover national advertising and the second is to cover regional advertising. I guess this means the invoice lists about $1000 worth of non-material charges (i.e., doesn't physically appear on the truck) that the dealer has to pay to the manufacturer ($570 destination, $230 advertising, $265 more advertising, $20 for loyally receiving mail). The trickle-down theory says that therefore we should pay this to the dealer.
One woud be in sorry shape if ALL of that stuff was actually true on ANY vehicle.
A couple of your items are right-on but most of them are simply not true.
The Dakota is no more or less reliable than any other vehicle. I am convinced that it is the DEALER that makes all of the difference. Buy what you LIKE... life is too short to sweat the little stuff.
Examples:
4) Fuel gage problems. Never heard of this and I have been researching Dakotas for a long time. Where did you see this?
1) Ball joint problems. The front end was COMPLETELY redesigned reciently. RACK -n- PINION STEERING!! What year Dakota encounterd this?
2) A "clunking" noise in the steering. Have not heard of this and see #1 above for new design.
5) Terrible mileage with the 4.7L engine. I consider 18 to 20 MPG on a V8 is pretty good!
14) Chrysler in financial trouble?!?!? There is NO SUCH THING as Chrysler!! I has been Daimler-Chrysler for several years now. (As you mention in your closing)
I agree with bpeeples, everything you buy will have some kind of problem.....some things more than others. I have 10,000+ miles on my Quad Cab, granted I have the V-6 and not the V-8 (no comments, I wish I'd bought the V-8 now!), but I have had only a couple of minor problems with the truck.
I had the rear leaf springs fixed (see TSB on this) the door molding fell off during the first wash, and three out of four bolts were loose on the driver seat. Other than that, it is fantastic!
I disagree with the harsh ride and the bumpingness (is that a word?) on the highway. If one is not used to a truck and the fact that the rear end is light, it might surprise you the first time you hit a "washboard" area on the road.
I bought the truck for the exact reason you are thinking...I needed to replace my aging Mazda and I needed a four door car. The Quad is the perfect match if this is what your needs are.
I'm a day late and $1,000 short!!! Please read this. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.
I ordered by 2001 QC SLT+ on Sat. (09/31). At the time, my dealer rushed me to get my order in "by the end of the month", so the vehicle will be here in next shipment. I asked dealer about rebates, incentives, ect. He said none - except on remaining 2000's in stock. Paid $500 deposit.
On Tues., (10/03), I saw a TV ad stating $1,000 cash incentives on 2001 QC's; expires 01/08/01.
Called my dealer, & he said incentive program started on Mon (10/02). He said I do NOT qualify since I ordered BEFORE the incentives started! Any advice?
Hey there folks. Have read the forum for awhile as I have considered a QC purchase. Amazing amount of info. Thanks. Now I need some help !
Have been scouting some available 2000 models, hoping for a great deal. Found 2 that are very close to what I think I want. Still have questions though.
The first relates to towing. I've read this forum and the owners forum and saw quark99's post in owners that described towing capabilities of different engine / transmission combos. I'm most interested in the V6 with auto, as my test drives tell me it's fine for my day to day needs. My towing needs would be occasional waverunner towing and 1 or 2 times a year would need to tow a 19' bowrider (about 2800 lbs), and the trip is about 110 miles. Since I'll do that so infrequently, I'm hoping the V6 can handle it.
Can the V6 / auto combo handle that towing ok ? Is there a risk of damaging the engine or transmission ?
Other questions relate to options / pricing. I know that there is a $2000 rebate on 2000's and have seen the references to the FB discount. Would love some input on "negotiating". I'm thinking of offering several hundred below invoice before the rebate, given that the 2001's are at dealers now. Any comments or advice ?
Last question. One of the trucks I like the best has been "tricked up" by the dealer. They added the roof rack, bed extender, and a "two part" tonneau cover that has a large rear lid and 2 side lifting lids toward the cab. They don't detail any prices for these things, but say that together they cost $2374. I'm trying to better understand what their cost is for those to aid in negotiating.
It gets better MPG than the 1960's-based V6 and is more suited for towing. It is the SMOOTHEST engine you have ever driven.... (unless you own a V10 or V12)
Over in the OWNERS CLUBS area ther are Dakota owners that have the towed extensivly with the Dak... Try asking there.
Gator unfortunately, rebates and sale deals usually carry with them a disclaimer for previous sales, etc. Coupons usually carry the same "fine print" disclaiming use in conjunction with other promotions and so forth. If you want to learn about "fine print" and disclaimers, read the next Macy's sales advertisement. Makes you head swim.
According yo my dealer the rebate is what is in effect at the time of delivery, not when it is ordered. If you haven't got your vehicle you get the current rebate, $100. If your dealer doesn't comply call the district manager. Enjoy the larger rebate.
I have the accessories book in front of me: Gull wing tonneau cover ..... $920 Roof rack.................... 200 Bed extender................. no price yet (shoulded be more than $500) All of these are without labor to install, but I can't imagine it would be $700 labor. Ask for an itemized breakdown!
Thanks for the info. I called a dealer and they quoted $235 for the bed extender + installation. May be a moot point as I'm leaning toward a 4.7 now, and the 2000's they had left were all 3.9's. I'll live with the truck long enough that I shouldn't be pennny wise / pound foolish.....
It sure doesn't look too complicated to put in the berd extender, 2 nuts and bolts. How dificult can that be? Does anyone know the site to check on where your vehicle is to track the delivery?
i had the extender installed by the dealer before delivery for $200. there are also two bars that go onto the tail gate as a way to lock the xtender down. i was the first person to have a foctory one installed at that dealership. i would negotiate for 200 installed. the dealer is a fool if he won't do it unless you have put down a deposit. 2500 miles and still running perfect. gevergreen add thermostats to your list.
Two things. One on gas gauge and another on rearend popping noise...
I had a fuel gauge stop working on my 98 Dakota extended cab. It was parked for 5 days this summer with a little over 1/4 tank. Normally if I was going to park it for more than a few days, I keep the tank full, but I didn't know it would sit that long. I started driving it again and the guage had stuck so I ran out of gas. Once I refilled it, the guage seemed to act OK, though a little less accurate. A month later, it had stuck again and I ran out again. Now it is very messed up. I run the odometer about 270 miles and refill. The guage never goes below 1/2 tank. It moves from full to 1/2 very slowly in the same amount of time that it would normally go from full to empty (as compared to it going from full to 1/2 at normal speed and then sticking at 1/2 for the remainder of the tank). I haven't taken it in yet to have it checked/repaired. I just got a recall on the rear breakline, so I'll have them look at it at that time.
I also have developed a rearend popping noise. The truck is a part time 4x4 with limited slip rear and 31x10.5 tires with about 55,000 miles. I park in a parking garage that has the tight right handed cordscrew entry and exit ramps. Now the rearend has developed a pop when I make left hand turns (only left hand turns). It pops as I start to come out of the turn and straighten out. It doesn't matter how slowly or quickly I turn. It is not the suspension. I can creep slowly with absolutely no body roll and it still pops. Am I trashig my rearend forcing it up and down these ramps in the parking garage? The concrete has good traction and I will only hear or feel the tires give if there happens to be some sand or grit on the ramp. Otherwise, the tires seem to be forced to turn at the same rate. A friend who used to park there said his truck went through a lot of tires because his limited slip slid one tire. My tires aren't wearing any different so I'm worried the "limited" slip is getting chewed. thoughts?
I have been convinced since last year that I'm trading it in on a Quad cab, but just haven't done it yet. Mine has the 5.2 and I really have liked the 4.7 trucks that I've driven, but does anyone know more about the new V6's yet? When will they be available? If they get close to 200hp and improved mileage significantly over the 4.7, they might be worth looking into and perhaps waiting for.
I just measured a F150QC rear cargo area and it appears to be exactly the same size as our QC. The rear seat area of the F150QC is very small when the seat is folded down. I like my decission on the QC looks even better. Its also a lot quieter in the cab than the ford.
As a long time Ford fan, I seriously considered the F150 Super Crew (the F150SC is the Super Cab). I also came to the conclusion that the Dakota was the better buy for me. However, if my boat was a 1000 lbs heavier, I would have gone with the SCrew. While the rear seat storage space may seem smaller, it is more horizontal and will hold quite a lot. I just wish the QC folded down like that. In my 91SC, when I had to haul my dogs in the cab (rarely), they do better with the fold flat seat and when I make my winter trips to Colorado (15 hours non-stop)the rear seat down makes a great bed. Short, but comfy.
Last week, I posted a question regarding the $1,000 rebate on 2001 Dakota QC I ordered. Since then, I spoke again with my dealer and he said that the rebate is determined by the date of delivery; not the date of sale. SO, I WILL GET THE REBATE!
I'm considering the hard, folding tonneau cover. I have two questions: 1. Is it easily/quickly removed when you have to actually haul something?; and 2. How sturdy is it?
I'm counting the weeks 'til my QC gets here. I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas!
I know what you mean. I just checked on my QC and it got to Miami on 10/9. It should be to the dealer any minute now. I'm very anxious. I suppose I should take my tape measure with me to check the rear end alignment. I'll put my old astro van in the paper next week. Did you grad from UofF? I'm getting a little perinoid, should I check the tranny, listen for the shifts, check the oil, measure the dip stick or just not take delivery? If its not right I'm sure the dealer will get it that way. I made my decission on the truck after driving it compared to others and the convenience if will afford me and above all its quuiet and comfortable. I was going to get the chevy LT but it was too big. I hope to hear something tomorrow. I am still undecided on the bedliner or mat. I'll probably go with the lined and check on rust from time to time. I'll also put on the flares, mud flaps and top rail protectors and the bug deflector. Has anyone had experience with the Bugflector brand? I used it on my Tahoe and it was good. Its only $48 at discount auto. Sorry for the length. Later
I'm from Pensacola. But, I did my undergraduate at U. of South Alabama in Mobile. I also graduated from Texas Southern University's School of Law in Houston.
Yes, I'm a lawyer. But, don't tell my mother. She thinks I play piano in a bordello. Actually, in my "other" life, I was a bartender at a beach resort in Ft. Walton Beach - a man for all seasides!
Be sure to do all of the "pre-flight" checks when your Dakota QC arrives. However, after you take delivery you can't send it back to the factory. If any problems develop, it will be up to a dealer to fix them.
I did a lot of research before I bought my 2001 QC. The only real competition was the Ford F-150 SuperCrew. But, the Dakota won out. The Ford had plenty of interior space; but, it was just too long. PLUS, it needs the 5.4 V-8 to adequately push all that weight. Unless you need a truck for the construction business, the Dakota QC is the best.
Hey! Does anyone have any experience with the hard, folding tonneau cover? I've almost come to the conclusion that it is a good thing. But, I would like some feedback from "real-world" owners.
Thanks for the info. It appears you spent some time in your research for a replacement for the 1987 Caravan SE. You may find there are ALL KINDS of 'bad' reports available on ALL vehicles. Did you factor in the human tendancy to only report BAD things that happen to their cars? This HAS to be factord in when you are researching forums like "edmunds"... we are ALL humans out here.
Each source of data MUST be tempered with the understanding of WHO is reporting it and where their paychecks come from. (Many so-called "news" and "vehicle-testing" web sites are purley propaganda spreaders ... watch out! )
Perhaps others would like to see this too. Here is the URL to that article about DC's financial problem that you referenced.
The problems you describe are common to the 97/98 Dakota's. There is a service bulletin on both those problems and both are covered by warranty. The gas gauge needs to be replaced as well as the rear differential gears. You can get the bulletins from Chrysler's web site.
I went to my dealer on 10/11 to order my QC I walked out with one from the lot $900 UNDER invoice. 2001 Patriot blue pearl coat 4.7 v8 My first truck and i absolutely love it my advice to anyone shopping is to know the truck inside and out and the invoice price for all the options you should not pay more than $300 over the dealer invoice price and with the $1000 rebate now offered that puts you at least $700 under invoice i got most of my invoice prices from carsdirect.com go to the site and add all options you want it will give you 3 prices carsdirect, MSRP(a joke), and invoice Carsdirect may be less than invoice but now with the $1000 offered you may be better off going to the dealer
You did wel my friend for getting a QC off the lot. If you had a little time you could have pocketed another $500 by joining the Farm Bureau for $50. You have to be in the FB for 30 days before you can get their additional rebate. No strings, just cash! Its ok, you did well. My QC just got here, it took 4 weeks from order to delivery. And I joined the FB the day I ordered it, sso all is well here too.
I have also looked for a good Dodge web site to ask questions and technical advice, opinions, etc. The best site I have found is www.moparchat.com This site is clearly the best in quality, with over 60,000 posts! Good luck either way Trevor!
We had been looking at the 2001 QC and finally decided to buy one on the 29th of September. I asked the dealer if there were any rebates and he replied "none that he knew of" We took the new QC and signed the papers on October 1st. The rebates came out on the 2nd!!!!! I then called the dealer last week and he said he was sorry but he didn't know anything about the rebates!! You mean to tell me the dealer doesn't know about any rebates until after they start???
Scott, if you believe that, allow me to offer to sell you a bridge in New York. Of course they are notified, so that the dealerships can plan out their individual advertising programs and mailers. They chose instead to refrain from informing you (legal, but not nice). Store that one in your memory bank.
am I in the right topic? Took my truck in for warranty work and was given a '01 Quad cab as a replacement vehicle. The truck had 108 miles on it. Had some hauling to do so loaded up the truck with 1200#'s of various chemicals. I was impressed with the way the truck drove and handled with the load and didn't bottom out when going over speed bumps. The build quality has vastly improved over the years. This truck rode better, handled better, was more comfortable, and was easier to drive than the '01 Dodge Ram that I was provided with on my previous visit. The choice between the two is a no brainer. Can't understand why they couldn't set up the Ram the same way they setup this Dakota. BTW, the 4.7 is definitely a winner.
(obyone) Do not forget that the RAM is designed with a solid front axle which gives it much more heavy duty suspension than the Dakotas independently suspended front wheels. (IFS)
The obvious drawback of a solid front axle is poorer ride quality. I have read some hard-core 4-wheelers asking for a solid front axle on the Dakota... Reading into your append... it appears that you would wish the Ram be changed to IFS.
The Ram and Dakota are different trucks for different uses. The designers made decisions based on the intended uses of the different trucks. I know of people that swear by their dual-wheeled rams with the Cummins turbo diesel engine.... These are WORK trucks that the Dakota just would not be able to keep up with.
(BTW... I know a guy that TRIED the Ford full-size trucks with the IFS and the front suspension was nothing but troubles for heavy duty work. Had to replace parts constantly and the alignment was imposable to keep set up)
My fault...I meant the load handling capabilities. The Ram would bottom out with the same load as was in the Dakota which didn't. Also there was minimal lean going into turns in which the Ram making a comparable turn would have a lot more lean. Hmmm...maybe another way to put it is that this truck is rock solid where the Ram didn't give that type of feedback. Put on 200 miles today and still can't get over it....
Perhaps the RAM that you 'test drove' was a stripped-down version. I know that a RAM with the heavy duty suspension can also be called a "kidney kruncher" because it rides as if it had 2X4s for springs. But... load it up with bales of hay or a 5th wheel trailer... and it handles the weight with aplomb.
My Dakota has the "tire and handling" package which includes antisway bars... perhaps yours does too?
My Dak is GREAT truck... absolutely the best choice available when the overall package is considerd.
I have taken LONG (16 hour) trips during hot weather and it is comfy for all passengers. I have traveled 80 miles in a driving snowstorm with over a foot of snow on the roads. The snowplows could not even keep up! (And this is VERMONT!!) No "normal" cars were even moving that day but my family made it home from the farm. (And I had a BLAST driving in the white stuff... it was FUN FUN FUN)
down. I noticed a high pitched whine...reminded me of a racing trans. Is this normal. Truck is new so maybe someone overlooked adding trans fluid? May have had the noise earlier, but always had the windows up. Today when I had it down, the whine was very prominent. Any clues?
I have the manual xmission...thus I cannot help you here.
Perhaps you would have more 'luck' with your question in the CLUBS area where there are several DODGE DAKOTA discussions. (This forum is in the PICKUPS area and is little used since the DODGE DAKOTA CLUBS were established.)
Before you ask how to get there...
1)In the yellow area on the left, find the dropdown box labelled Conferences:
2) Select OWNERS CLUBS and enter that area.
3) use your browsers FIND function to locate all confrences with DAKOTA in the title and put a CHECK next to each of these. (Then click on UPDATE PLACEMARKS button to add them to your MY PLACEMARKS page)
4) Now your MY PLACEMARKS will contain the additional confrences you just added
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Comments
B43 South Florida - PPA/EB-PF .... $235
D43 South Florida - PPA/EB-PF .... $260
They say its some retirement fund? Any input?
What ever you do join the Farm Bureau, for this you get a $500 deduct in addition to any other rebates. You have to be a member for 30 days before you take delivery.
They say that its only like 3 - 4 week delivery on a ordered vehicle which is great.
Anyone with input on those 2 charges would be appreciated.
As to Allen Samuels. I had a 2000 all picked out, price agreed to with salesman (and I thought salesmanage). Went that night with wife and $8000 cashiers check only to handed off to someone (500lb blob) who tried to give me some sad story about not making in profit and tried to change the deal. Needless to say I walk immediately, and it would appear, have made it my life's work to warn others of my misfortunes. The saleperson I met there was very nice, just can speak well of the overall style of the dealership.
Good Luck. !! Lets all know how it turns out.
Rhys
I don't see any reason why someone would not drive their truck in O/D except for a couple circumstances. In all other cases, it should be just fine.
If you are towing, in mountains or actually anytime the transmission keeps shifting back and forth into overdrive, it will cause excessive heat in the transmission. This happens when the transmission is trying to find the best gear for a given load and speed. In that case, push the button to take it out of O/D until that particular terrain has passed.
Conversely, it won't cause any harm to NOT use O/D. Sometimes, that just works better, especially in towing circumstances.
Go for the Quad Cab. You won't be disappointed!
Be sure to check out the posts under "Owners Clubs" as there are quite a number of good posts there regarding Quad Cabs.
fat_fenders
Bookitty
Thanks for any help!
jeffp
Dodge Dakota Owners - General Topic (Topic #24)
This person has determined the RPM and SPEED limiters on his Dakota. (Yes there are 2 limiters)
He describes it as feeling like somone hit the brakes suddenly.
It has SLT Plus Decor Group, HD Service Group, 4-wheel antilocks, fog lamps and power overhead convenience group. Dealer said it will be in within 5~6 weeks. AFTER I got home, I read the brochure more closely and discovered that horsepower has DROPPED from 235 last year to 230 this year. WHAT HAPPENED?
How do I track the progress of my QC? A while back, someone wrote that there is a number or website to contact. Does anyone know anything about this?
AFTER I signed the purchase order, my wife pointed out that the HD radiator is EXPOSED in the lower part of the front bumper. Sure enough, it is. Why doesn't Dodge place some kind of grille there to deflect stones? Road debris can be deadly to radiators! Is there an after-market insert available? THANKS
I have heard the following:
1) Ball joint problems.
2) A "clunking" noise in the steering.
3) Rear axle howl.
4) Fuel gage problems.
5) Terrible mileage with the 4.7L engine. My
'91 5.7L Chev 1500 does much better. So does
my wifes '90 Cad 4.5L CoupedeVille.
6) Multispeed transmission problems.
7) Fit and finish problems.
8) Freeway "hop" or "bounce".
9) Very harsh ride, even with the 2WD version.
10) Window lift motor problems.
11) No light gray interior for 2001.
12) Very unreliable!!
13) Etc., etc., etc., and it goes on.
14) Chrysler in financial trouble?!?!?
Are these really problems and do they actually exist? I am very concerned and am now considering other alternatives.
I wonder if DC ever accesses these websites and comments??
Bookitty
A couple of your items are right-on but most of them are simply not true.
The Dakota is no more or less reliable than any other vehicle. I am convinced that it is the DEALER that makes all of the difference.
Buy what you LIKE... life is too short to sweat the little stuff.
Examples:
4) Fuel gage problems.
Never heard of this and I have been researching Dakotas for a long time. Where did you see this?
1) Ball joint problems.
The front end was COMPLETELY redesigned reciently.
RACK -n- PINION STEERING!! What year Dakota encounterd this?
2) A "clunking" noise in the steering.
Have not heard of this and see #1 above for new design.
5) Terrible mileage with the 4.7L engine.
I consider 18 to 20 MPG on a V8 is pretty good!
14) Chrysler in financial trouble?!?!?
There is NO SUCH THING as Chrysler!! I has been Daimler-Chrysler for several years now. (As you mention in your closing)
I had the rear leaf springs fixed (see TSB on this) the door molding fell off during the first wash, and three out of four bolts were loose on the driver seat. Other than that, it is fantastic!
I disagree with the harsh ride and the bumpingness (is that a word?) on the highway. If one is not used to a truck and the fact that the rear end is light, it might surprise you the first time you hit a "washboard" area on the road.
I bought the truck for the exact reason you are thinking...I needed to replace my aging Mazda and I needed a four door car. The Quad is the perfect match if this is what your needs are.
Thanks
I ordered by 2001 QC SLT+ on Sat. (09/31). At the time, my dealer rushed me to get my order in "by the end of the month", so the vehicle will be here in next shipment. I asked dealer about rebates, incentives, ect. He said none - except on remaining 2000's in stock. Paid $500 deposit.
On Tues., (10/03), I saw a TV ad stating $1,000 cash incentives on 2001 QC's; expires 01/08/01.
Called my dealer, & he said incentive program started on Mon (10/02). He said I do NOT qualify since I ordered BEFORE the incentives started! Any advice?
Have been scouting some available 2000 models, hoping for a great deal. Found 2 that are very close to what I think I want. Still have questions though.
The first relates to towing. I've read this forum and the owners forum and saw quark99's post in owners that described towing capabilities of different engine / transmission combos. I'm most interested in the V6 with auto, as my test drives tell me it's fine for my day to day needs. My towing needs would be occasional waverunner towing and 1 or 2 times a year would need to tow a 19' bowrider (about 2800 lbs), and the trip is about 110 miles. Since I'll do that so infrequently, I'm hoping the V6 can handle it.
Can the V6 / auto combo handle that towing ok ? Is there a risk of damaging the engine or transmission ?
Other questions relate to options / pricing. I know that there is a $2000 rebate on 2000's and have seen the references to the FB discount. Would love some input on "negotiating". I'm thinking of offering several hundred below invoice before the rebate, given that the 2001's are at dealers now. Any comments or advice ?
Last question. One of the trucks I like the best has been "tricked up" by the dealer. They added the roof rack, bed extender, and a "two part" tonneau cover that has a large rear lid and 2 side lifting lids toward the cab. They don't detail any prices for these things, but say that together they cost $2374. I'm trying to better understand what their cost is for those to aid in negotiating.
Thanks in advance for any advice or comments !
It gets better MPG than the 1960's-based V6 and is more suited for towing. It is the SMOOTHEST engine you have ever driven.... (unless you own a V10 or V12)
Over in the OWNERS CLUBS area ther are Dakota owners that have the towed extensivly with the Dak... Try asking there.
Bookitty
Gull wing tonneau cover ..... $920
Roof rack.................... 200
Bed extender................. no price yet
(shoulded be more than $500)
All of these are without labor to install, but I can't imagine it would be $700 labor. Ask for an itemized breakdown!
Thanks again for the help and comments....
Does anyone know the site to check on where your vehicle is to track the delivery?
2500 miles and still running perfect. gevergreen add thermostats to your list.
Evan
I had a fuel gauge stop working on my 98 Dakota extended cab. It was parked for 5 days this summer with a little over 1/4 tank. Normally if I was going to park it for more than a few days, I keep the tank full, but I didn't know it would sit that long. I started driving it again and the guage had stuck so I ran out of gas. Once I refilled it, the guage seemed to act OK, though a little less accurate. A month later, it had stuck again and I ran out again. Now it is very messed up. I run the odometer about 270 miles and refill. The guage never goes below 1/2 tank. It moves from full to 1/2 very slowly in the same amount of time that it would normally go from full to empty (as compared to it going from full to 1/2 at normal speed and then sticking at 1/2 for the remainder of the tank). I haven't taken it in yet to have it checked/repaired. I just got a recall on the rear breakline, so I'll have them look at it at that time.
I also have developed a rearend popping noise. The truck is a part time 4x4 with limited slip rear and 31x10.5 tires with about 55,000 miles. I park in a parking garage that has the tight right handed cordscrew entry and exit ramps. Now the rearend has developed a pop when I make left hand turns (only left hand turns). It pops as I start to come out of the turn and straighten out. It doesn't matter how slowly or quickly I turn. It is not the suspension. I can creep slowly with absolutely no body roll and it still pops. Am I trashig my rearend forcing it up and down these ramps in the parking garage? The concrete has good traction and I will only hear or feel the tires give if there happens to be some sand or grit on the ramp. Otherwise, the tires seem to be forced to turn at the same rate. A friend who used to park there said his truck went through a lot of tires because his limited slip slid one tire. My tires aren't wearing any different so I'm worried the "limited" slip is getting chewed. thoughts?
I have been convinced since last year that I'm trading it in on a Quad cab, but just haven't done it yet. Mine has the 5.2 and I really have liked the 4.7 trucks that I've driven, but does anyone know more about the new V6's yet? When will they be available? If they get close to 200hp and improved mileage significantly over the 4.7, they might be worth looking into and perhaps waiting for.
Thanks,
Chad
I'm considering the hard, folding tonneau cover. I have two questions: 1. Is it easily/quickly removed when you have to actually haul something?; and 2. How sturdy is it?
I'm counting the weeks 'til my QC gets here. I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas!
Yes, I'm a lawyer. But, don't tell my mother. She thinks I play piano in a bordello. Actually, in my "other" life, I was a bartender at a beach resort in Ft. Walton Beach - a man for all seasides!
Be sure to do all of the "pre-flight" checks when your Dakota QC arrives. However, after you take delivery you can't send it back to the factory. If any problems develop, it will be up to a dealer to fix them.
I did a lot of research before I bought my 2001 QC. The only real competition was the Ford F-150 SuperCrew. But, the Dakota won out. The Ford had plenty of interior space; but, it was just too long. PLUS, it needs the 5.4 V-8 to adequately push all that weight. Unless you need a truck for the construction business, the Dakota QC is the best.
Hey! Does anyone have any experience with the hard, folding tonneau cover? I've almost come to the conclusion that it is a good thing. But, I would like some feedback from "real-world" owners.
1987 Caravan SE. You may find there are ALL KINDS of 'bad' reports available on ALL vehicles. Did you factor in the human tendancy to only report BAD things that happen to their cars? This HAS to be factord in when you are researching forums like "edmunds"... we are ALL humans out here.
Each source of data MUST be tempered with the understanding of WHO is reporting it and where their paychecks come from. (Many so-called "news" and "vehicle-testing" web sites are purley propaganda spreaders ... watch out! )
Perhaps others would like to see this too. Here is the URL to that article about DC's financial problem that you referenced.
http://www.detnews.com/2000/autos/0009/27/b01-125690.htm
Rocket
My first truck and i absolutely love it
my advice to anyone shopping is to know the truck inside and out and the invoice price for all the options you should not pay more than $300 over the dealer invoice price and with the $1000 rebate now offered that puts you at least $700 under invoice i got most of my invoice prices from carsdirect.com go to the site and add all options you want it will give you 3 prices
carsdirect, MSRP(a joke), and invoice
Carsdirect may be less than invoice but now with the $1000 offered you may be better off going to the dealer
I have also looked for a good Dodge web site to ask questions and technical advice, opinions, etc. The best site I have found is www.moparchat.com This site is clearly the best in quality, with over 60,000 posts! Good luck either way Trevor!
Rocket,I couldn't find a bulletin or TSB area on any of the chrysler or dodge sites. Do you have a specific website or area of a website?
I checked:
http://www.daimlerchrysler.com
http://www.chrysler.com/
http://www.4adodge.com/
Are these bulletins you mentioned on one of these sites or some other site?
Thanks,
Chad
came out on the 2nd!!!!! I then called the dealer
last week and he said he was sorry but he didn't know anything about the rebates!! You mean to tell me the dealer doesn't know about any rebates until after they start???
They chose instead to refrain from informing you (legal, but not nice). Store that one in your memory bank.
Bookitty
From a 'rado owner
with a solid front axle which gives it much more
heavy duty suspension than the Dakotas
independently suspended front wheels. (IFS)
The obvious drawback of a solid front axle is
poorer ride quality. I have read some hard-core
4-wheelers asking for a solid front axle on the
Dakota... Reading into your append... it appears
that you would wish the Ram be changed to IFS.
The Ram and Dakota are different trucks for
different uses. The designers made decisions based
on the intended uses of the different trucks. I
know of people that swear by their dual-wheeled rams with the Cummins turbo diesel engine.... These are WORK trucks that the Dakota just would not be able to keep up with.
(BTW... I know a guy that TRIED the Ford full-size trucks with the IFS and the front suspension was nothing but troubles for heavy duty work. Had to replace parts constantly and the alignment was imposable to keep set up)
My Dakota has the "tire and handling" package which includes antisway bars... perhaps yours does too?
My Dak is GREAT truck... absolutely the best choice available when the overall package is considerd.
I have taken LONG (16 hour) trips during hot weather and it is comfy for all passengers.
I have traveled 80 miles in a driving snowstorm with over a foot of snow on the roads. The snowplows could not even keep up! (And this is VERMONT!!) No "normal" cars were even moving that day but my family made it home from the farm. (And I had a BLAST driving in the white stuff... it was FUN FUN FUN)
Perhaps you would have more 'luck' with your question in the CLUBS area where there are several DODGE DAKOTA discussions. (This forum is in the PICKUPS area and is little used since the DODGE DAKOTA CLUBS were established.)
Before you ask how to get there...
1)In the yellow area on the left, find the dropdown box labelled Conferences:
2) Select OWNERS CLUBS and enter that area.
3) use your browsers FIND function to locate all confrences with DAKOTA in the title and put a CHECK next to each of these. (Then click on UPDATE PLACEMARKS button to add them to your MY PLACEMARKS page)
4) Now your MY PLACEMARKS will contain the additional confrences you just added