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Ford Five Hundred/Mercury Montego Maintenance & Repair



  • Try a 4 wheel alignment. If your tires are cupped - you have a suspension problem.
  • jwryjwry Posts: 1
    Mine is a 2006. Like all owners, I got the recall notice and found the rear brake pads worn out at 33,000 miles. They were replaced free (& did not need rotors.) I have had new cars from 1973 thru today and NEVER wore out brake pads in under 80 to 90,000 miles. I am easy on brakes. The Ford story on the recall is not believable at all: They claim "some" of the pads were "swollen due to exposure to moisture" which is BULL. All brake pads are "exposed to moisture!" Clearly there is some design problem that causes these to wear out prematurely. I have these questions:

    1) Any idea what the truth is about the problem?
    2) Anyone had the rear pads replaced and found the replacements to wear out just as fast as the originals OR did the replacements last longer ?
    3) Any user history/comments on the life of the front pads ?
  • My pads on my Mercury Montego were replaced by the recall at 21000 miles in September 2007. Now its November 2008, I have 47000 miles and they say the pads and rotors need to be replaced! Some things not right. Anyone else had this problem? Ford says must be my driving! Also pads last only 18000 - 30000 miles today - I do not believe this. I never had a problem like this on others cars I have owned. Wonder what they are hiding!
  • Hi, Zhuge:

    I just purchased a used 2006 Ford 500 SEL with 11,000 miles on it, and have already experienced two of the three issues that you mentioned. I also hear a grinding sound as I back out of my driveway, when I apply the brake. After reading a few other replies, I'm agreeing with the cheap-o rear brake pad response, and, I looked at my back wheel and did see way more brake dust than the front, so, hopefully this will go away when I replace the pads with better, ceramic ones. . I haven't heard the "passenger side annoying vibration" yet but will pay attention when driving around the city and on the highway. The "lunging forward" problem was pretty scary. I stopped at a light, put full pressure on the brakes, and the engine accelerated like it was trying to override the brakes. I put the car in neutral and back into drive, and it idled normally after that. I'm not mechanically minded, but I can't help but wonder if it's a case of not letting the car warm up for a couple minutes after just starting it. I have a habit of starting the engine and off I go, but now I'm taking a few minutes to let the car warm up and let the idle speed adjust, and, so far, the problem has not repeated. Honestly, I thought my big feet were somehow pressing on the brake and touching the accelerator at the same time. Pretty scary stuff, especially after everyone I talked to suggested that if I'm going to buy a used car, to buy a Japanese one. Also, I need to get used to parking this beast in crowded parking spots. I'm used to smaller cars, and the 500 is a vehicle that can't be "whipped right into a tight parking space". To each his or her own, I suppose. Beyond the initial problems, this is truly a beautiful, spacious, great riding car. I'll hope for the best.
  • I have the same problem with my 500 limited. Found that there is a service bulletin on this as the wire to the heating element was misrouted causing the solder joint to break at the element. I found the break and repaired, but the heater still does not work. More troubleshooting later. Did you ever get yours repaired?
  • Bought car in May 2007. Now I'm finding my rear brake pads are shot - and I never received the recall notice from Ford regarding replacement & warranty extension. I have 29,000 miles and would like to know of any options I might have. I don't know why I never received the recall.....
  • I would like to know if anyone that owns a Ford Five Hundred-Taurus would be interested in putting together a user group to try to force Ford to help us in attempting to gain some value to our purchases !!
    We all purchased these cars with the belief that Ford would support and even promote our type of Car. Instead we see they change the name, then they completely leave the brand obscured and hidden, not ever and i me and EVER, even advertising it !!!
    we have all spent a lot of money to purchase this, and within 12-15 months the car is not worth 30% of the purchase price.
    I think that Ford has completely bungled this car in advertising and support, making our investment worthless.
    if we work together we may be able to have Ford forgive some of the outstanding money we still may owe to Ford or any other lending institution that we owe the financing of our vehicles.
    Ford mishandled the car--- we believed in it enough to buy it, Ford should stand behind the vehicle and not let us take such a bath in the value !!!
  • donl1donl1 Posts: 112
    So very glad I dumped my 05 less than a year after I bought it.
  • you're lucky alright. but the rest of us that signed up for a buy out over some years we are stuck with a car they let de-value by 70% over 2 years !!
    Hope you got a better value and car !!!
  • "I would like to know if anyone that owns a Ford Five Hundred-Taurus would be interested in putting together a user group to try to force Ford to help us in attempting to gain some value to our purchases !! "

    What are you smoking. You bought this car to drive -- not as an investment. Ford and or your lenders don't owe you anything. You - and only you made the decision to purchase the vehicle. You have no contract with them when you purchased the vehicle regarding what they would do to maintain or guarantee value for you, advertising, etc. They made no claims. They did not promise a trade in value.

    You should have done your homework. Drive the car! Enjoy the car. Drive it till the wheels fall off -- that is the only way to get "value" from any vehicle. It is a means and method of transportation - to get from one place to the next safely - not an investment.

    Things only have value if someone wants them. You obviously wanted this car. Now no one wants it used. So be it.

    It's like crying because the value of your stock went down.

    Get over it.

    What kind of support do you want from Ford. Can you bring it in to a dealer or a mechanic of your choice for repairs? Are parts available for repairs? Is the car a lemon? Does it not do what you expect it to - get in - turn the key - it starts - and you drive. Do the accessories work?

    Jeeze -- you are probably the sort of individual who blames everyone else for their bad decisions -- and takes all the credit if things work out. Grow up!
  • For those of us who plan to keep our car for 8 or 10 years, or longer, the rapid depreciation is not so much a negative factor. In fact, in my state the vehicles are taxed each year on their present value.
    What we do have is a reliable, roomy, comfortable car with very good visibility that has decent power and handling.
  • making our investment worthless.

    I bought my Five Hundred and Freestyle (both '05's) to DRIVE them . . . . not as investments.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Sorry about your situation. BTW-Ford's are historically low on resale values. Not a knock-just a fact.
  • scottlscottl Posts: 109
    I hate to pile on to you folks, but resale on the Five Hundred is pathetic. I just bought at auction a 2006 Five Hundred SE AWD with 94K miles. $5300.

    94K is a lot of miles, but still, this car had to have been close to $25K new. It is in very good shape, with new tires and brakes, the interior is in super condition, and it runs like a champ. It has a few issues, like the front valance being curb cracked, but honestly it drives like new. Not a rattle or squeak anywhere.

    The only problem is that I have absolutely no maintenance records. I don't know if the CVT fluid was changed at 60K or not. Since that is a $400(!) job, I'll take the chance that the previous owner kept up on maintenance.

    There was a 2WD 2005 Five Hundred in similar shape that came in with a $4200 minimum bid, and no one bid on it . No one.

    The good news for the used buyer is that these are great values. The car is built like a vault. This is going to be the car my 15 year old daughter learns to drive on.
  • (I apologize for the formatting, but it doesn't appear that these forums support the <ol></ol> lists, nor do they support nested lists, so it's not as pretty and clear as I typed it to be...)

    Hi all. I have a couple of questions regarding solutions that you've found to your problems. I will also list the problems I've encountered.

    I bought a used '05 Montego 35 days. In that time, I've experienced the following problems:

    Trunk doesn't really release:I have to press the release button (on the dash or on my remote) at least twice to get it to let go, and by let go, I don't mean that the lid will pop up - I mean that I physically have to lift the trunk lid, sometimes forcibly, but it actually lifts. Otherwise, it's like I never hit the button to release it.

    Gas cap/evap valve:My check engine light came on, and after reading the code, they changed my gas cap. Three days later, the check engine light came back on, and they changed the evap valve. I have not experienced another problem with this yet, but then again, since fixing that (2.5 weeks ago), I've actually only been in possession of my car for 5 days...

    Jerking/Bucking when accelerating and decelerating:This is the really bad one, as it scared the hell out of me and I almost had an accident today...Initially (and by initially, I mean about 3 weeks ago), I noticed a little jerking when I was coming to a stop. However, this did not happen each time I came to a stop, only occasionally. (Also, one time, I noticed a hard shift when I was accelerating on the highway, but I assumed that was just a horrible combination of hill, acceleration, and timing of the car downshifting when I hit the gas, so I didn't put any thought into this.) However, over the next week, the jerking became more frequent. During this time, I started to notice a bit of jerking when I accelerate - hard shifting, but not overly strong...

    I took it to CarMax, and they initially said it had to do with the gas cap/evap valve problem, and when they fixed it, it would be fine. WRONG.
         I took it back, and they said it was a transmission problem and sent it to a transmission shop. The shop ran full diagnostics on the transmission and said there was nothing wrong with it at all, so they said it was a computer problem. So they had Ford "flash" the computer.
    Well, I got the car back yesterday, and again, WRONG. It drove amazingly last night and this morning!! However, I was driving during 5 o'clock traffic, and all of a sudden, the car jerked with amazing intensity (I had been driving on cruise control, and I was approaching a lot of traffic, so I tapped my brake to release cruise and to prepare to slow down). The jerk scared me, and I slammed my knee into the steering column/dash area (a very ugly bruise on my kneecap forming, btw). So, I applied the brakes, and it started doing the jerking again like it had before, but at a much stronger intensity than before I had taken it into the shop. Due to this, I had an immense fear that I was about to eat the car in front of me, but luckily I managed to get the car stopped before plowing into them. (I mention this somewhat irrelevant information about my pain and fear to emphasize why I find this to more of an immediate problem rather than an annoying occurrence.) For the remaining 5 minutes of drive-time to get home, it was intensely jerking during both acceleration and deceleration.

    I've been reading the forums, and I've seen people mention that their shops had suggested fuel filter, fuel pump, new transmission, etc. I spoke with an out-of-state mechanic friend, and he suggested that it may be the torque converter (which is not diagnosed by the computer).

    If you've had this problem with your Five Hundred or Montego and the problem has been resolved, please reply and let me know what your solution was and the cost of repair. Just so you know, in case it matters for warranty or anything like that, my car has 56,700 miles on it. I need this fixed ASAP, as I need a reliable car (where I don't fear having an accident each time I drive). However, I am a full-time graduate student, so my finances are extremely limited, so if your repairs were covered under warranty or anything like that, please mention what your mileage was so I can realistically consider costs. (My financial situation is one of the reasons I bought this car to begin with - it had the options and space I wanted at a price I could afford assuming I was not going to be having so many problems...)

    Those problems aside, I do want to make something clear - usually, in a case like this, I would hate the car immensely and not want to deal with it at all, and with my financial situation, it very well may get to that point; however, at this point, I do not hate my car. I still really really like it. When it's not doing the jerking, the ride is extremely smooth and comfortable. The space in the car is amazing!!! (I can easily fit 4 50-pound bags of dog food in the trunk with no problem. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm pretty sure I can get 6 in there, maybe 7...) And the interior is extremely comfortable!

    I want to keep this car, but in order to get it fixed as quickly as possible and at a reasonable price, I'd appreciate your advice on what was done to finally solve this problem with your vehicle. Thank you so much, and I look forward to your replies!
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    Some one on here said for the money these were better cars than the GM. Sometimes 'tried and true' boats work better. I hate you are having problems. I like the looks of the car.
  • Waynostarr did you ever find out the problem? My five hundred is doing the same things.
  • Hi. My car is still in the shop right now. Nobody responded to my request with their solution to this problem, so I'm still not sure. However, my service rep called me earlier today and said that they took my transmission apart and tested every part, and they are replacing a valve body.

    Take that with a grain of salt though, as this is the 4th time they've "fixed" it. I won't get it back until the middle of next week, but once I've driven it for a few days feeling for any bucking, I'll definitely update my thread to let everybody know if the valve body was the ticket or not...

    I've had a lot of frustration with this, especially considering that the shop has now had my car twice as long as I had it in my possession during the time I've owned it (44 days)... I completely understand... Lots of luck!!
  • ghobbs80ghobbs80 Posts: 2
    Yes, I have come up with an alternative to this problem. I bought my 500 used and I received a recall for my rear brakes 2 months later. I took it in and they replaced the rotors and pads, but it took 6 weeks for the parts to get here. I drove around for about 2 months after they were replaced and noticed they were squealing. I took the wheels off myself to take a look and noticed the rear pads were worn. I found out this was a problem. So instead of me taking it back to ford, I just fixed the problem myself. I replaced the standard rotor with a bendix performance vented rotor and bendix high heat performance pads. I have put on 30,000 km since I have done that and I have had no problems. It wasn't cheap to do so, plus I did all the work myself.. So that might be an option. Try changing the brand.
  • ghobbs80ghobbs80 Posts: 2
    Yes, I have experienced this also. Atleast you were only smoking as I was going into a car wash. I found the trick is to only tap the button up so it only jerks up a tiny bit, then you can pull the button up for the rest of the way. Its kind of like the automatic window going down. You hold the button for a second and it goes down all the way tap it and it goes down a little bit.
  • Re: Trunk Release
    Did you ever get this resolved? I have a 2005 FiveHundred that does exactly the same thing, I noticed on the new Taurus they have a springloaded pusher that actually pushes the latch mechanism up off the latch hook. As soon as I can confirm that this one will fit I might just go ahead and buy it and install it myself.
  • Hi. To be honest, the trunk release wasn't one of the bigger issues, so I didn't try to tackle it. I was more concerned with the vacuum/pressure issues with the gas tank and the bucking...

    Please, keep me informed if you decide to install that on your car. If it works, definitely let me know, as I'd probably have it installed in the future.
  • Okay, so I got my car back outta the shop shortly after I posted my original reply to you, but shocker of all shockers, it wasn't fixed!! So it was sent back in.

    I got it back almost a week ago, and so far, it's doing great!! After I've had it with no issues for a couple of weeks, I'll call the transmission shop that it was sent to and find out exactly what all they changed to stop the bucking, and then I'll post it so that everyone can use that as a reference.

    As for the gas tank pressure issue, they changed my gas cap and an evap valve, and that didn't fix the issue. They finally sent it to Ford, and I believe the issue has been fixed, as I've had no problems and I've refilled my tank twice. Usually, within about 25 miles of refilling my tank, my check-engine light would come on, so this is why I think it's fixed. I spoke with them, and they said that they replaced the evaporative solenoid control valve (which is different from the evap valve they'd changed before).

    Well, I'll be in touch in a week or two to let you know about the bucking issue and what the shop did to resolve it (if it remains fixed).
  • Thank you I'l look for the update
  • philipnphilipn Posts: 1
    I bought a 1995 Ford Five Hundred in 2009. How can I get the periodic maintenance booklet for my 1995 Ford Five hundred that is given to new car buyers?
  • Please tell me how you made out, is the car running ok. How much is this going to cost me?
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    Ebay has owners manuals, some with supplements, for the 2005 Ford Five Hundred.
  • masterdonmasterdon Posts: 1
    All four gages in the instrument cluster (Tach, speedometer, fuel and temperature)will fall down to "zero" while the vehicle is in operation. They will return to normal within 5 to 30 seconds. This might happen 5 times or more within a 5 minute span. I have also noticed that sometimes the electronic read out witch I always keep at the "MPG" screen will sometimes switch to a different screen showing "miles to empty". The gages will do this phenomenon at any time like immediately after start up, after a gas fill up or after the car has been in motion for sometime. Sometimes it will also trigger an engine fault or transmission fault light witch so far has proven to not be accurate. This light condition will correct itself after an hour or so and the warning light(s) will go out. I do not like to not pay attention to the warnings but so far they have all been false brought on, I believe, by the instrument cluster fiasco. I replaced the car battery about a year ago and went through all the steps to retrain the computer for idle, emmisions and shift points. Other than what I describe above, the car gets great mileage, shifts normally and performs well. I have recently passed a state emissions test. Anybody have any ideas on what is causing the problem? One of these days it might become a real problem and shut the engine down while on a trip in the middle of nowhere. Help! I am out of my three year warranty unless this is a discovered problem that Ford has acknowledged and has extended coverage on.
  • beancounterbeancounter Posts: 31
    Pathetic! That's all I can say. 2007 Ford 500 Ltd with 43K miles of interstate driving, and the rear pads are shot! Rotors can be turned (this will be the 1st time), but will have to be replaced next time. I had a 2000 Merc Sable before this. Put 235,000 miles on it and had the 2nd brake job done just before I gave it to my daughter. It's no wonder the automakers are in such trouble. 100 years of making cars and they still can't get it right!? And I still haven't seen a definitive answer as to why Ford/Merc owners are having this probem. (I've seen the following reasons: 1) wet brake pads. 2) brake pad material. 3) The car's brake system is set up to grab the rear brakes before the fronts. 4) calipers hanging up.) I love the car! But if I'm looking at brake jobs every 40K miles, you can have it! And judging from all the posts I've read on this subject, I'm doing better than all of them! This is supposed to be a family sedan. My mechanic said brakes wear out on performance cars like Mercedes, BMW's, and RX-8's because they're designed to stop the car from high speeds. The manufacturer isn't concerned about longevity. They're concerned about performance. Bought a '99 Toy Camry over a year ago for my wife (she's Japanese and really wanted a Japanese car this time. I gave in since I had picked her last 3 cars.). The car had 90K miles on it. What a car! Silkiest, smoothest V-6 I've ever driven. Now let's see..., my next car will be another Ford?? It ain't lookin' good!
  • 01taurussel01taurussel Posts: 43
    You don't have to get brake jobs every 40k. The new/aftermarket pads will last much longer. We have a 500 in our family with 182k, its on the 2nd set of pads in the back and they are still ok. Good luck, Ford should have the revised pads out by now and they last!
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