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Mazda5 Owners - Give Us Your Report



  • My wife's 2006 Mazda5 GT has been driving me nuts lately. We've racked up about 25,000kms so far. Quite a while back we noticed that there were these dull "thuds" (for lack of a better term) coming from the general front end area as we drove at moderate speeds over generic urban roads. These noises are now very pronounced, constant and utterly distracting. Three times the dealer has looked at it, lubricated things, and it has done nothing to improve it.
    The service department seems to get this glazed over look in their eyes when I describe the problem - it is very frustrating.
    I took the time to drive in another Mazda5 and notice nothing like these noise.
    I am about to escalate this problem up the Mazda Canada flagpole.
    Any comments, feedback or futher questions by other owners would be greatly appreciated.

    (PS Other than iffy shifts from the automatic it has been a good car)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Has the dealer not offered to replace the control arms? It seems more common that they squeak but a thud is either that or a strut mount.

    Are you able to try another dealer?
  • I'm stuck dealing with this dealer for now. That is why I"m posting this to get some ideas and feedback as to what the cause could be so I can put the pressure on the service department. (Simply put, if this is not fixed I will not be buying out the lease at the end - it is that disconcerting.)

    I believe they replaced the bushings on the control arms, but I don't really have a way to prove this.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I believe they replaced the bushings on the control arms, but I don't really have a way to prove this.

    It would show on the invoice, warranty or not.
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    How come when I open my Mazda5 GT with the key, the alarm goes off? Should I be seeing the dealer about this, or simply always use my key fob to open the door?
  • If the alarm automatically arms when you lock the car you will need to use the fob. Check your owners manual for instructions on how to change the settings if possible.
  • mazicmazic Posts: 3
    I too have noticed these noises ( I descrbe as rubbing or squeeking sound) It happens when the car is driving in below freezing temperature and a slight bump is encountered. Everytime this happens I think I'm driving a car that's falling apart!

    I'm taking this to the dealer soon
  • I think My M5 2007 consumes a lot of gas 18 mpg (city driving)..I need an opinion here ,because before we took the car from the dealer my wife had this huge wordwar with one of the sales I'm a bit suspicious that they did something with the car..I know it's a crazy idea but 18 mpg! I don't know is it supposed to be 22 mpg?
  • I think I've also heard those other noises you speak of but I doesn't get very cold out where I am. My problem is a definite "thuds" and the sensation the suspension might just fall out from under the car - you can mistake it.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Have you checked your tire pressure? If it's within range, try increasing by a couple pounds to see if it helps.
  • I'll try..I hope it works...thanks!
  • Having owned a Mazda 5 for nearly a year I regret my purchase decision. For the following reasons:

    The car was at the dealer for a month to repair a passenger compartment water leak that soaked the front passenger carpet and caused a terrarium effect in the car in humid weather.

    The switchblade key fob does not work. It has been reprorgrammed three times and still does not operate correctly. I also am 6'6" and it makes a huge difference in leg room esp at the knee.

    The Toyo tires rated at something like 140mph are terrible. In NE PA when it is wet and around freezing they do not grip at all. The tires were replaced with all weather Goodyears and the problem no longer exists. At the time of repalcement, 7,200 miles, half the tread was gone on the Toyo front tires.

    When it is cold on start up the suspension moans, groans and bottoms out for the first hour of driving time. Brakes squeal as well. Clutch in/out is not smooth and becomes rouhg when cold.

    My air conditioner was insufficent in hot weather with five people in the car on a trip in hot humid weather. In late summer I had the windows heavily tinted and this seemed to help the problem.

    Interior materials are cheap and scratch easily. The car is used for my wife and kids and is subject to harder wear than I would give it my self.

    All though small, the standard shift knob has a shift pattern indicator on the top of the knob that spins around mysteriously on its own. Not that I use it, but it reminds me of the lack of quality control that apparently went into this car.

    Bought the factory rubber mats which lasted about 2,500 miles before they wore through where my heel rests.

    Great car to drive on trips, good gas mileage, great styling especially with tinted windows etc. But a disappointment overall.

    Called Mazda about all of this and the dealer as well and according to them I am the only one to complain about these issues.
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    Thanks for pointing me in right direction. I figured out that if I arm the alarm with the fob or electric door lock switch, I have to open the door with the fob.

    Only if I arm the alarm by manually locking the car door with the key can I open the car door with the key without triggering the alarm.

    So if I don't want to trigger the alarm; lock with fob, must open with fob. Lock with key, only then can open with key (or fob)
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    I have a 2007 Mazda5 GT. It's confusing that a security indicator light flashes to indicate the immobilizer system is armed, yet there is no similar flashing indicator to indicate the alarm system is armed.
    The only way I know the alarm is armed is when the hazard lights flash once when I turn it on. But otherwise the flashing light that usually indicates the alarm is turned on is actually indicating the immobizer system is turn on
    Oh well, I guess thieves will see the flashing light and know that something is armed.
  • I checked the tire pressure..eveything was fine..pressures were right..
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Are you in a large metro area or anywhere in California? Here in CA we get reformulated gasoline which our state claims reduces MPG by 3% but helps to keep us breathing. I noticed much larger differences on a drive up the west coast into OR and WA where I averaged a nearly 20% difference.

    Also, if you tend to drive 80mph on the freeway/highway, as is the norm around here, MPG suffers greatly.
  • Renton Washington..but it's not that bad (gas consumption).I can deal with it..again thanks!
  • "When it is cold on start up the suspension moans, groans and bottoms out for the first hour of driving time."
    You may want to check out the cold weather section on the forum. This a known problem with a TSB 02-007/06. Many, many, many people have the problem especially those of us in the colder regions (US and Canada). I am on four other forums and I could print off over 100 pages of emails from people with this problem. :mad:
    If you go to MPVclub, scroll down to the Mazda5 section, from there go to Mazda5/Premacy Problems, then click on Suspension Squeaking over bumps. The forum starts with problem dating back to 2005 and there are a lot of them. North American Operations are aware and working on fixing the problem in the USA, Mazda Canada is aware and is also working on the problem.
    You are not alone. ;)
  • athenasiusathenasius Posts: 118
    I love the car. I have had it since mid 2005.
    1. suspension creaks when weather is very cold does not affect tightness (i live with it) - see recall for mazda3 with the same issue.
    2. i have only ever had the (sliding door)latches freeze 2 times and both were after i washed it. - if you put some grease on the locks that seems to resolve the issue.
    3. When slowing down to a red light and then the light goes green before stopping there is a bit of a hesitation.
    4. If you are tall the seat does not go back very far.
    5. no arm rest for passenger seat - else the cubby could not be opened.
    6. the toyo tires that come with the car are crap - you need winter tires.
    those are the main issues as i see it

    1. very fun to drive.
    2. love the 'hidden' storage under 2nd row seats
    3. Love huge glove box
    4. I can fit my bicycle in the back with tons of space.
    5. zippy engine.
    6. sliding back doors no bumping other cars
    7. Head rest in all seats
    8. auto heat great in winter as the car heats up the fan speed increases
    9. Love higher seating - can just see over most cars on side of seats. the auto wipers and lights.
    12.this car has received great safety in crash tests
    13.There is only one door external lock-limits entry for thieves.
    14.Integrated security sensor so even if someone gets in the car with a copy of the key it makes it much harder to start it without computer chip in key)

    As with most Mazda owners they love the car the only thing that holds the Company back is the crap dealerships.
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    11) don't you find the auto wipers don't start soon enough
    after it starts raining, even if set to max sensitivity?
    12)What have you heard about safety in crash tests for those in 3rd row if there is rear ender?
    13)Someone else in "Changes I'd like to see" forum also said one door external lock limits entry for thieves. My thought is that if the single lock jams, how do you get in?
    14) what's the diff between what you said and normal function of immobilizer?
  • andrewtmandrewtm Posts: 1
    This is interesting as the same mazda with different engine options (gas and two diesel) is offered in Europe and when you go to Mazda's European website (go through they tell you that you can tow 600 KG (unbreaked trailer) and 1400 kg - 3090 lb (trailer with breakes) so yes, 5 was designed for towing. They do not want you to do it here since it is much cheapper in North America than in Europe and I guess they do not want you to come back for warranty repairs too frequently. Also, last year 5 was competting with MPV. If they told you that you can tow with 5 than who would buy MPV which was approx $7000 more than 5 (at least in Canada). Incidentally, in Europe towing specs for 5 and Mazda 3 are the same. Also, in Europe you get 5 with minivan roof rails instead of rails available here. The only consolation is that rails available here are made by Thule. Y
  • erielleerielle Posts: 9
    I was driving my 2 months old 2007 M5 today, it has 1300 miles on it.I was sitting on the traffic, so I switched the gear into neutral (I have the 4At GT).The light turned red so I switched to drive right away and accelerated...but to my surprised the engine went dead!! Is there anyone out there who have an explanation for this!!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Yes, you stalled it much like popping a clutch. Automatics are not designed for neutral drops. A little more gas and you could have caused damage.
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30

    Can you explain what "neutral drop" means?

    And if the automatic is in neutral, regardless of whether or not the car had stalled, aside from flooding how could " A little more gas and you could have caused damage."?

    Thanks, just trying to learn by reading these forums.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    A neutral drop is when you shift to drive with with the accelerator depressed.

    Causing damage: the car is meant to be put into drive while it is idling...

    I started to write a whole big thing about the torque converter and the input shaft spinning, gears engaged by hydraulics, etc. but realized that it may be a bit much based on the question.
  • erielleerielle Posts: 9
    Thanks a lot for your reply...I only thought that I could use the neutral since I'm sitting on the traffic..besides why do they have to put a neutral on a automatic transmission if it's going to cause troubles anyway.Right now I don't have any problem with my car after it do you think I still have to see the dealership and tell them what happened and have it check?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    No, you likely didn't do anything to it.

    In the future, you need to give the transmission a couple seconds to actually shift into gear prior to depressing the acellerator pedal.
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    Ah, I see. To us non-techies it's the unpleasant "clunk" you feel/hear when you shift suddently from neutral to drive with the gas pedal depressed
  • erielleerielle Posts: 9
    That's what I have in mind ,that I didn't do anything to it..Anyways,thanks to you!
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