i have a 2003 dodge cummins 135456 miles been to dealer 4 times with same problem codes po602 po341 told me to change ecm got new ecm throwing out same codes problem?
I recently got a smokin deal on a 07 dodge dually. Had to have the Turbo replaced due to carbon build up. Dodge told me to take it out on the road once a week and run it above 50mph and 2100 rpms for 20 minutes to clean out. I'm not sure I buy this approach. any idea's. I love this truck, but I'm seriously reconsidering the purchase and may sale it
The dealer advice is essentially correct. I've owned Cummins-powered Rams for over 13 years now, and they can get iffy if they don't work for a living. Remember, this is a medium-duty engine that's available in trucks all the way to class 7 (GVWR up to 65,000 pounds). If you don't load it with either regular highway speeds or substantial cargo weight, you will develop buildup in the engine and turbo. I give my 2005 Ram dually a few good romps every month.
I have a 2008 Ram 2500 6.7 diesel with 60,000 km and about a month ago the Malfunction Indicator Light would come on for a day or so then go off for several days, then it would start all over. I took it into the dealer and they said the fault code for the light indicated that the turbo was losing pressure so they changed the turbo (warranty). Now the light does the same thing but more often, the dealer latest theory is that it is a BS code and has no reason, a clinch in the computer, so they ran a flash program, it still does the same thing, light on for a day, then off..... Has anyone had the same experience and what was the outcome?
i have a 2002 4x4 diesel yesterday it wouldn't engage into 4 wheel drive this is a manuel transfer case hooked to a automatic tranny any sugestions? 111000 miles never any problems w/ transfercase
Not sure what transfercase is in your truck, but unless you forced the shift lever, chances are the axles may have a disengage vacuum on it and may be your problem. On older cases the shift forks bend or wear out, usually from lack of oil, so good luck.
first of all don't even believe that in truck milage meter, it's crap. Test your milage by dividing the miles driven by the fuel used. My 04 gets terrible milage. Wish I knew how to improve it.
My first question would be how you know that the wire from the fuse to the trailer plug is ok? There is a fuse to each side in the fuse box. Check ton make sure it has power on both sides.
I have a 04 2500 cummins manual trans . It turns over fine with adiqite speed to start but wont. If we pull start it it fires right off. After its warmed up the same problem still persist. Will only start if its pulled. When it starts it runs fine. No check engine lights. Have not checked for codes.
First, check your batteries. Even if only one of them is low on voltage, you will have enough juice to run the engine and all the electrical accessories, but not enough to start the engine (that's why it needs two high-output batteries - just to get the engine started). The old mechanical 12-valve Cummins that was used until early 1998 could run without any electricity once it was started.
If the batteries test ok and the problem persists, check the cables and starter.
My guess is a Cam or Crankshaft position sensor. By pull starting it you my be turning the engine over faster than the starter therefore allowing the sensor to read and communicate with the ECM. This is just my guess. Let me know what you find out...
last week our 08 3500 started smokin, black, huge clouds, and progressively worsened with a tapping or clicking from engine. replaced an injector from cummins, but no change and looked like now fuel in oil. pulled replaced injector and one next to it for compare and they are different size at seals. Also looked at the modulator valve on top of charge air piping and it was completely garbaged with soot and not closing completely. suggestions?
is it any way to get rid of the epa stuff on the 6.7 (2008 2500)?i don't care about the warranty any more.this thing has had the cheeck engine light on so many times i lost count.it has been the exhaust system every time.it has only 13,000 miles on it.i am ready to get the buy back thing going with it.i heard that it was a kit that you can get to get rid of this problem.IE remove the stock exhaust system.any info on this kit is welcome.
How do you know a new, or newer D2500 4x2 with the right options, 6.7L will "easily do mid 20s highway"? I've been shopping for the last of the 5.9 models, 2004-07 with the 325hp motor in an attempt to get the best stock power and economy. But I'd gladly buy a new or newer one if I knew it could get the xlnt mileage of an older 5.9. Please advise, because most of the forum talk is against the newer 6.7, both on mileage and reliability issue. By the way, my friend has an early 2004 D3500 dually 4x2 w/ 4.10 rear, an Edge plug in module, and it gets the best I've ever seen, 23.4mpg at 65mph easy going freeway. Thanks.
I'm not preferring an older one, say pre-2003 body style change, I've had many of those already, but I want to get a new or newer one that gets the best mileage. And I LOVE my friends early 2004, it's a 6 code(the eigth digit of the VIN is the engine code) with the 305hp, a D3500 quad cab dually long bed, 4.10 rear end, an Edge chip, and is just the smoothest, strongest running thing you could imagine, and great mileage, up to 25 on the freeway at easy, easy cruise. I've heard so much bad about the newer 6.7, and all the added smog stuff, and I DO know my newer Winnebago motorhome gets easily 15% less mileage with its post-2007 diesel engine technology. So I'm thinking 2003-07 might be my best best. Again, I'm easy driving, so MILEAGE is my number 1 concern. What is your experience?
What you smoking? I have a 04 3500 4x4 with 3.73 gears and can't get 15 mpg with a til wind. It has power, runs good , all that but poor milage. Are you using the built in measure system or your own calculator? They EXAGERATE. But the new Dodges sound like real problems. I am leaning toward a Chevy 4x4 dually mostly for the independant front end.
It's the axle. Your friend has a 4.10 - the worst axle for fuel economy. Dodge offers a 3.42 with both the manual and automatic... get a Cummins with the 3.42 and the 68RFE automatic (with the double overdrive) and you would have no trouble getting 25+ mpg.
I have a 2005 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 dually with the Cummins, 48RE, and 3.73s. At a steady 55 mph, I have no trouble reaching 21 mpg (real, not from the overhead readout)when the truck is empty.
You didn't mention which transmission you have, and that will make a difference, as the automatics have a more economical overdrive ratio than the manual (either NV5600 or G56). You also need to keep an eye on your air and fuel filters as well as your tire pressure, and make sure you use a good grade of diesel. While the engine will run on cetane of at least 40, if you can find higher (42 and up), the engine will be much happier. I definitely get better mileage with 42 over 40. Also be careful where you buy fuel... a small local station that might not sell much diesel runs the risk of fuel contamination underground; a station that sees a lot of heavy truck traffic and turns over fuel more often is the place to go.
I have a 2003 2500 cummins and its been a year now since I've bought it and the whole time I've had it the crankcase breather hose smokes excessively. It's not exhaust, or at least it dosnt smell like it, and it's not oil burning. I dont notice other diesel pickups doing this so it must not be normal. I have my trusty Hanes manual(worthless) and it tells me that I can change the crankcase breather but dosent tell me why the excessive smoking...ie what the problem is. I dont know if changing the breather will even help. I consulted a local diesel shop over the phone and they said it sounded like a piston was scored or something--- sounds expensive and i'm hoping its just a simple fix, not somebody trying to screw me out of money. Any suggestions?
Yammerman, the smoke you see is most commonly called "Blow By". It's a sure sign that you have trouble coming. Sometimes it is water in your oil and the smoke is actually steam caused by the oil heating up and evaporating the water. You may only need a head gasket replaced or worse case a complete overhaul. Monitor your water to see if you are losing any and keep your oil changed more often. Also keep a close eye on your oil pressure. Depending on how severe the smoke is, you may be able to drive it for a long time by just changing the oil more often.
Kcram, went to S.Dakota hunting and thought would share with you my fuel experiesnce. I too have an automatic in my late 04. Sounds like identical trucks. I think 3.73 's. About 2grand at 70. Going out two tanks of fuel, 65 mph just under 15mpg. filled up with #1 diesel out there and drove around 450 miles and refueled with #2 (regular diesel) to head home. Picked up speed to 72-74 and got almost 18 mpg,, both tanks. Now as for 55 I see it going by on my way to 70 and on my way back to stop. I have not put enough miles on the truck on the last tank of fuel I got when I got home to see if the milage has stayed up. I can't explain it. I would like to put a chip on it but not sure the investment would pay off. I have all the power I really need, and it would take a lot of miles to pay for it if I only got one mpg more.
when at idle my 96 Diesel Dodge make a "Click" noise now about every 6 or 7 seconds from under the hood? Runs great and has good voltage etc?What is it?
I recently was pulling a trailer when my truck began to vibrate excessivly and my fuel milage plumitted. About 100 miles to half a tank!! Also had alittle trouble picking up speed. I have went as far as to bleed water of and changed out fuel filter but the problem continues to exist. This stated right at the 100K mile marker on my truck. Any thought's or suggestions?
Best things I've found for keeping mileage up are:
- properly inflated tires... and this does not mean running max PSI. LT tires should be inflated only to the load they'll actually be carrying - keeping the air and fuel filters changed regularly - using a quality grade of fuel... you absolutely have to stay away from small neighborhood stations where the diesel may be in the ground tank for months on end
I had a problem last winter with the power steering whining when it is cold. when the weather warmed up it went away. this winter as soon as it got cold it started ti whine again. but this time it seems to be leaking out of the cap when I shut off the truck. I believe it has completely quit working now. what did you all have to take off to get to the pump and was there any other gaskets needed? Thank you for your help.
i have never had that problem i just replaced my pump after 140,000 miles ithink myine was leaking from seals iam having a lot of problems with ecm codes are youwhat year model is your truck mine is a2003 2500 2 wheel drive no add ons just stock
The difference you see with that situation is Number 1 diesel is a lighter weight fuel which will flow easier in colder weather but it produces less of an explosion per volume. Number two is a heavier weight fuel so therefore you get more of an explosion out of the same amount of fuel but the downside, in cold weather it gels up very fast. Also be very careful when chipping the Cummins. Keep the boost pressure below 40 PSI so you don't blow your head gasket. My father put 3 head gaskets in his before he learned to keep the boost under 40. We put the stage 1 plate in the fuel pump (he has a gen 2-12 valve) in it and had 46 PSI of boost but kept loosing the head gaskets. By the way, he gets around 20 in his 98-12 valve.
I have 08 ram 2500 diesel, new with 4 miles on it. @23000 miles clutch started to slip. found out that it had dual mas fly wheel. was told does not stand up very well.I drive big trucks for living. I had warrentee on but was not covered. was also told that ford went from DMF to single or better. My question also is how many FP of torque is it rated to or what it can handle as to the single.thanks
I have an 06 and my clutch also started slipping bad from 3rd on unless i turned the programmer off and babied it through all gears. I'm not sure the ratings on the factory clutch but the design and durability is pretty poor. I did alot of research and got a Southbend dual disc clutch with solid fly wheel and new hydraulics. I talk to them directly and the rating is 550hp/1100tq. But they said it would hold more than that. I've had it in for a good 10 to 15 thousand with my programmer all the way up and I have 38inch tires and I havnt had any issues yet. I found it online for 1300.00 with the hydraulic kit(ebay) I think. I wouldn't waist your time with a factory replacment.
Is it correct for the alternator to not put out a charge on a 04 Dodge diesel for the first min or so after you start your truck. I noticed this on my truck for the first time this fall and has continued since. The lights dim, the heater fan slows down,, and then I hear something and they pick up for a few seconds and then dim and/or slow down again. The volt meter does not move and remains below 14 volts. Then after awhile it starts to climb to 14.5 volts and stay constant. It does not fluctuate when the lights do as described earlier. From that time on everything seems ok as long as truck is running. If you stop it for fuel etc. it starts all over again. :confuse: :confuse:
My 04 3500 cummins sat outside in the 15 degree weather plus whatever the wind chill was all day. I let it warm up for 5 minutes, made it 4 miles down the road and she shut down. I can start it on starting fluid, so I know it is not getting fuel. I only had an 1/8 tank (possibly crap fuel, never filled up there before). I added 5 gal of fresh diesel. drained filter resivior. tried cycling the engine on and off to pump fuel back in, don't know if it worked. Unplugged batteries to reset computer. Can't go to work till it's fixed and don't have money to take it in. Any suggestions please.
Been in garage all night, added fresh fuel this morning. Fuel filter resivior not filling.I poored fuel in it, truck ran for 2 seconds. Could be the pump or by draining the fuel out of filter res did i cause air in the line, if so How do I bleed it.
Woo! Not so good. The easy things seem out of the question. As I understand, by turning key on and off is supposed to lift fuel to the high pressure pump. Your lift pump may have quit. Can you hear it? Put your ear to fuel filler hose and have someone work the key.
i am having the exact same problem with my 04 ram 2500. I had problems with the electrical for about the last year. I now have all new wires with soldered connections due to corrosion, brand new optima red tops. I have put a tester on the alternator and it does not function properly. My problem has recently gotten worse and now all my lights on the instrument cluster flash and the warning chime goes off before it starts to charge. I have not been able to get an answer if i should replace the alternator or if it may be something else. :mad:
Thanks for the reply. I thought possibly that while the intake heater was drawing a lot of amps even after the dash light goes out, that the alternator did not charge due to overloading the output wire. No other electrical problems and I hope none show up. By the way, how is your truck on fuel? My 3500 4x4 crewcab automatic is not good.
i have an 06 1 ton diesel.. my baby.. i need to know what my codes are that keep popping up....p2509,p1755,p0521,and p0524 it would be much appreciated if i could know what to fix ... as taking it in would just be upsetting to be nice
Thanks for the response. After researching this I found out that the alternator will not kick in when the intake heater is cycling or when you reach 18 mph. And dang if it ain't true.
i have a 2002 dodge 2500 with cummins, its a automatic with 112000 miles, its my first diesel and have had it since middle of October, it had been running really well there are some things i need to tune up on but i noticed recently the past couple days that it lags really bad coming out of a stop, it seems to run harder than it use too, doesnt seem to do it right away either, my thought would maybe be injectors but im still learning diesels and not sure anyone think they can help please respond!! Thanks
Are you sure the transmission is starting out in 1st gear? You may be launcing in 2nd gear and that would give you the feeling you are describing. Check it out and let me know what you find. I am a Dodge diesel mechanic for 15 years.
What i would do first replace the fuel filter and add two quarts of regular oil to a fuel thank, make sure to have a full thank of diesel (10-40 motor oil) this operation will lubricate the injectors evenly. It sounds weird but i did this to my truck a 2004 dodge cummins 3500 with a similar problem and now it runs very smooth.
Comments
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Thanks..........ehestdalen
yesterday it wouldn't engage into 4 wheel drive
this is a manuel transfer case hooked to a automatic tranny
any sugestions?
111000 miles never any problems w/ transfercase
If the batteries test ok and the problem persists, check the cables and starter.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Randy
I've been shopping for the last of the 5.9 models, 2004-07 with the 325hp motor in an attempt to get the best stock power and economy.
But I'd gladly buy a new or newer one if I knew it could get the xlnt mileage of an older 5.9.
Please advise, because most of the forum talk is against the newer 6.7, both on mileage and reliability issue.
By the way, my friend has an early 2004 D3500 dually 4x2 w/ 4.10 rear, an Edge plug in module, and it gets the best I've ever seen, 23.4mpg at 65mph easy going freeway.
Thanks.
And I LOVE my friends early 2004, it's a 6 code(the eigth digit of the VIN is the engine code) with the 305hp, a D3500 quad cab dually long bed, 4.10 rear end, an Edge chip, and is just the smoothest, strongest running thing you could imagine, and great mileage, up to 25 on the freeway at easy, easy cruise.
I've heard so much bad about the newer 6.7, and all the added smog stuff, and I DO know my newer Winnebago motorhome gets easily 15% less mileage with its post-2007 diesel engine technology.
So I'm thinking 2003-07 might be my best best. Again, I'm easy driving, so MILEAGE is my number 1 concern.
What is your experience?
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
You didn't mention which transmission you have, and that will make a difference, as the automatics have a more economical overdrive ratio than the manual (either NV5600 or G56). You also need to keep an eye on your air and fuel filters as well as your tire pressure, and make sure you use a good grade of diesel. While the engine will run on cetane of at least 40, if you can find higher (42 and up), the engine will be much happier. I definitely get better mileage with 42 over 40. Also be careful where you buy fuel... a small local station that might not sell much diesel runs the risk of fuel contamination underground; a station that sees a lot of heavy truck traffic and turns over fuel more often is the place to go.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
I would like to put a chip on it but not sure the investment would pay off. I have all the power I really need, and it would take a lot of miles to pay for it if I only got one mpg more.
Runs great and has good voltage etc?What is it?
- properly inflated tires... and this does not mean running max PSI. LT tires should be inflated only to the load they'll actually be carrying
- keeping the air and fuel filters changed regularly
- using a quality grade of fuel... you absolutely have to stay away from small neighborhood stations where the diesel may be in the ground tank for months on end
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Matt
it may be faulty or loose.
Mine took me a while to figure it out.
Let me know how you did.
Rico