Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

jaimec

i pull a 5thwheel i get 10.5 and the total weight combined its 24,000 with 07 3500 dually

KCRam

If you're running 4.10 axles, your mpg is about the best you'll do if everything else is stock (including the tire size). They keep the engine revving higher than the 3.73s at the same road speed. The most efficient rpm for the Cummins is just above its initial torque peak, in the 1600-1750 range.

The problem is, even with 3.73s, you're traveling on the slow side to get that top mpg... in my 05 3500 dually [the 05 and 06 engines are identical] with 3.73s, automatic, and stock tires, that has me doing just 52 mph (which on most highways will get you run over even by school buses). At that speed, I'm well over 20 mpg. But at 65 mph, I'm down to 18.5-19.

Dodge addressed this last year by offering the 3.42 axle with the 6-speed automatic. The taller axle has reduced towing capacity, but in that config, people are achieving well into the 20s even at 65 mph.

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regular_joe

I believe that I am being gouged by a diesel repair shop and would like an experts opinion. Dodge dealer said my low power ( 2000 dodge ram 2500, cummins turbo) was caused by the transfer pump. They wanted $1300 to replace it. I called around and ended taking it to a shop specializing in Cummins engines. I told them what the Dodge dealer said. The next day the cummins shop called and said that they could find no computer codes indicating that any thing was wrong. They said that their next step was to put the truck on a dyno and the cost was $350. I initially balked and ended up talking to the repair rep. I reluctantly agreed to the test. Next day they called and said that as they retested for low fuel pressure, it got progressively worse and that yes, I needed a new fuel transfer pump. Shouldn't they be able to diagnose this problem without a $350 dyno test? ( Plus $500 for new pump and labor) .

jake78

You're problem seems to be all over the place. First things first low power with no fault codes does have to be run on a dyno, the cost...... i have no clue what is normal. Secondly the transfer pump has no direct effect on low power. The transfer pump will only cause low power because while cranking the engine if the transfer pump is weak or not working at all it puts an extra strain on the injection pump because you are trying to pull fuel from the fuel tank with no transfer pump(im guessing you have a vp44 or a bosch inline injection pump) and after time this will cause the injection pump to go bad. Third if the transfer pump was the culprit then just changing the transfer pump will not solve the problem you will need a transfer pump and an injection pump. You should be able to tell if the transfer pump is working put the key in the ignition and turn the key but do no start the engine you should hear some clicking and you should be able to hear the transfer pump cycle which will be heard by somewhat of a buzzing sound it will last for 30 seconds then stop. If you do not hear anything try turning the key off wait 30 seconds then turn the key again but this time you will "bump" the engine. Bumping the engine is when you turn the key to the cranking position but not holding just turn the key and release. If you still do not hear the transfer pump buzzing then it is not working. This will not rule out the transfer pump, it could still be buzzing but not supplying enough fuel to the injection pump which is no good either. This is when testing comes in but no dyno will be needed you need to hook up a drain line to the outlet side of the pump and do a volume test. once the transfer pump has been diagnost as faulty or not faulty then the injection pump needs to be tested and this will need to be dyno tested. the technician will need to run the truck on the dyno and hook up to the injection pump with a psi gauge to check fuel pressure that the injection pump is putting to the injectors. this is where they will find if the injection pump is bad or not on a side note the injection pump is rather pricey. if both pumps are checking good then more troubleshooting will be required.

KCRam

A dyno test is usually preferable to reliance strictly on the engine computer. The dyno allows the mechanics to duplicate road situations, see what happens as road speeds and transmissions gears change, and gives them a more detailed look at what the vehicle is doing when a problem does occur. As they discovered, the problem with your fuel pressure was progressive, and got worse as the driving simulation continued. The dyno test would have been a bargain if it showed something a lot less invasive was the cause.

Personally, I would encourage a shop that has access to a dyno to use it.

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barrc_ranch

What if i am towing a trailer at 65 miles oer hour? then what temp should it be running at?

rs6309

i have an 2004 5.9 motor
at 65 i get 17mpg
at 55 i get 21mpg
towing i get 12-13mpg
i m dissappointed...

2dog97

What is your idle set at in neutral/park? If it is automatic it is supposed to be set at 850 rpm. I have a 1996 and a 1997 both with auto trans. and have had this problem happen after years of use. I found the idle to be dropping due to wear on the idle screw stop on the injection pump. Adjust the idle at that screw to make up for the wear spot.

2dog97

I have a 1997 with the 12valve and have an irratic ticking coming from the fuel lift pump area when I put a stethoscope on it. Could it be the primer pump or is that an electric pump next to the primer pump on the side of the engine? Curious if anyone has come across this before. It isnt all the time and is mainly when the engine is at operating temp.

2dog97

Looking down on top of the engine it is at the back of the injection pump and you will see the thottle lever resting on the top of the acorn style bolt head. It is easy to see if you operate the throttle by hand and watch that area at the back of the injection pump. This solved same problem on my 97. If it is automatic set it at 850rpm, good luck

2dog97

Hey guys I just noticed I responded to some old questions on the forum. My bad but I did post a question about my 1997 12 valve so I would love to hear some advise. Thanks and I will try to pay attention to the dates next time. O well. Thanks 2dog97

reaperdon

I need help dodge diesel only starts in reverse have new safety switch and pig tail runs good just won't start any other way. What gives Thanks for any help.
Don

murphy4

What should be expect for highway mileage?

KCRam

Depends on many factors...
- rear axle setup (2500/3500 single rear wheel or 3500 dual rear wheel)
- cab (regular, Quad, Mega)
- drive system (4x2, 4x4)
- transmission (manual or automatic)
- axle ratio (3.42, 3.73, 4.10)
- usual cargo load (empty/commuting, loaded/work, towing)

The best: 2500 4x2 regular cab, 3.42 axle, automatic. Traveling empty, that truck will easily do mid 20s highway.

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nascarcamper

I have a 2006 Dodge 3500 ram with the 5.9 cummins deisel in it, with 20,000 miles on it . I pull a 32ft travel trailer with it . It pulled great until it went into the shop last summer and the dodge dealer put a ecm upgrade in it from cummins. I now have NO power to pull the trailer and I used to get 15mpg pulling the trailer,now I get 10mpg. The dealer replaced one injector and rebuilt the transmission. It did not help. Does anyone esle have this problem or know what the problem might be . The dealer said they can not reverse the upgrade.

red777

its called killer dowel pin, it is bout a $100 or so bucks to fix upfront or thousands on the backside, (if it falls out).

skysteve

Hard starting, Cummins is the bet starting engine there is, I would suggest that the fuel is running back to the tank

sheppardbs

slow cranking...will start...happened after lending truck to a friend, he forgot to "wait to start" and after the third or fourth time the truck starter began dragging ..??

def90

All, I have a 96 2500 with over 300,000KM on it, and excpet some rust (Ontario) it has been an excelalnt truck. It has just sat with minimal use (max 1 trip per week) for the last 10 weeks. When I got back to it I ran it on a 25km trip, no problems then disaster struck. It stalled on me, was hard to restart(cranked but wouldn't fire) and got progressively worse. I replaced & bled the fuel filter, no improvement! I next suspected the transfer (lift) pump & have jsut replaced that. It still starts if primed, runs if throttle is held at 1250RPM or above. If I let of the pedal it will eventually stall out. If I prime the fuel pump & start & let it run on idle (750-900 rpm) it will run for approx one minute. I see no obvious leaks or damaged fuel lines??????
ANY ADVICE GREATLY ACCEPTED!!!!

KCRam

If it's still cold where you are and you have the block heater, plug it in overnight and see if it starts any easier.

When my 96 Cummins was slow to start, it was usually a progressive thing over time and was always the batteries giving out. But I was religious about waiting for the grid heater, and even a couple of ice-cold starts by my dad had no lasting effect on the starter.

Best guess is batteries - the cold cranking may have worn them out. (Remember, the 12-valve Cummins is completely mechanical and once started, requires almost no electrical draw once the grid heater has stopped cycling.) Second would be a worn starter, and if so, you probably want to get that replaced as a matter of preventive maintenance.

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red777

2 things: 1) the camshaft sensor is going bad, you have a limited amount of miles to move it before it will jump time and destruct, really bad thing to have happen. 2) where the fuel lines come out of the tank, 2 copper fittings that your factory fuel fittings plug into will rust and suck air, with it not running at idle only at raised rpm i would suspect you are sucking air somewhere in that area. if its not the top 2 fittings its in the lines right after it. leaks are hard to find because of how dodge ran them in the c - channel of the frame around the tank. fuel will leak into the frame and usually has to run the length of the frame to underneath the cab before it finds a hole to leak through.

i would check the lines and if you are 100% sure you are not leaking fuel, then i would have the camshaft timing sensor checked. it is located on the front of the motor with the timing gear, it is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] but if its broke it has to be replaced or the engine will jump "time" and destroy itself. . . then it gets real expensive.

hope this helps

-Red

ramcharger

i just purchased this truck. It's a 4x4 automatice 4dr dually. i noticed a comment today that got me wondering. 04 vs 04.5 What's the difference? How do you know which you have? I don't know the rear gear, but with stock 235/80/17's I'm turning around 2000 at 70. The fuel milage is poor in my way of thinking. I see others have the same questions about milage. Anyone had first hand experience with Bullydog stuff. Considering it. Thanks

ramcharger

Does the oil change to black quickly in Diesel engines? I just bought this 04 Dodge and the previous owner said he just changed the oil. I drove it 800 miles home and the oil was black as coal. I changed it and the filter. The oil went black again almost immediately. Is this a concern? Can I clean out the engine? Thanks

KCRam

To check the engine, look on the driver's side valve cover. If it says "ISB 305", it's an early 04. If it says "ISB 325", it's an 04.5.

You have 3.73 axles... essentially, you have the same truck I do, just that mine is a 2005.

As for the oil, yes, it turns black almost instantly - nothing to worry about.

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ramcharger

Thanks kcram. It is an 04.5. So what is my question. Does this mean an HO? Is there a way to get the torque converter to lock up earlier? At low speeds, the engine RPM is way up compared to ground speed. Could save alot of fuel, more like a manual. Was reading about this last night. Is it only available on Fords?

emdenton

I have an 04 Ram 2500 Cummins with 130k miles. i have recently ran biodiesel in my engine. since i did this, my engine has been idling very rough and vibrating at speed. i have since switched back to petro and i still have the same issue. i have changed the fuel filter twice, but no help. can someone help me on this and give me an idea on what the problem could be?

sheppardbs

Kcram............thanks for the info....had my batteries checked ...they're ok, but the starter is pulling way to many amps........255,000 miles , I guess i've gotten my money's worth out of the starter....

KCRam

For 2003 and the first part of the 04 model year (summer to Dec 2003), there were 3 different ratings for the Cummins:
- 235/460 = California
- 250/460 = standard output (2003 only)
- 305/555 = high output
In January 2004 (2004.5), they were all replaced by one 50-state legal engine rated at 325/600.

The TC will not change its lockup pattern unfortunately. For 2005, the calibration was revised and I have different shift points and lock-up speeds than your 2004.5, plus I have Tow/Haul instead of OD-off. (It would be a while before the 48RE was allowed to have both.) You can probably ask a dealer if your transmission software is up to date, although a reflash is not reversible if you don't like what happens afterward.

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KCRam

Yep, 12 years out of a diesel starter... it did the job!

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oldtech

ALL I CAN SAY IS MAY GOD HELP YOU. I ALSO MADE THE MISTAKE OF BUYING ONE OF THESE TRUCKS BUT AFTER 7 CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS IN 6000 MILES AND OVER 2 MONTHS TOTAL TIME IN THE SHOP DODGE BOUGHT MINE BACK. APPARENTLY THIS BLUTECH 6.7 DIESEL WAS NOT MADE FOR THE AVERAGE DRIVER. THIS TRUCK HAS TO BE RUN HARD DAY IN AND DAY OUT OR EVERYTHING IN THE BLUTECH EMISSIONS SYSTEM WILL CLOG UP AND TURN THE MIL ON. GET RID OF IT WHILE YOU CAN. CALL DODGE AND REQUEST A BUYBACK. THEY BOUGHT MINE BACK ON THE FIRST TRY. I NOW HAVE A 2008 RAM 1500 HEMI THAT SERVES THE PURPOSE. GOOD LUCK.
OLDTECH

barrc_ranch

:confuse: I have a 2002 dodge 2500 w/cummins auto, 4:10 rear end, 4 wheel drive, extended cab shortbed with 150,000 miles on it. everything works great like it should but when i take off from a light the temp goes up to about 210 degrees, after i cruise for a min. it goes back to normal (under 200) it never overheats or feels like it runs hot but it is bothering me. It also goes up to about 205 degrees stoped at a light with the air conditioner on idleing in the sun with no shade. If you are in the shade it doesnt affect it. On the interstate at 70 mph it is at about 2000 rpms and it runs at like 195 degrees which is normal in my experience.. If anyone has any idea on what it might be please let me know so I can take care of it.

barrc_ranch

My dad has a new cummins and has never had a problem. But he does tow a 35 foot cow trailer a least twice a week which dodge says need to be done with the new cummins or it will clog up the turbo.. If you want to keep it out of the shop tow a heavy trailer or load with it regularly.. If you dont have a trailer or something heavy to make the truck work I would get rid of it like the guy above and get a gas..

I have had a dodge hemi and it pulled my cow trailer full of cows all the time with NO PROBLEMS.. all the power you would need is there in the hemi. I just couldnt deal with the fuel milage or beating on my new truck so i got the cummins.

Best truck i have ever driven by far...

rudybaker

I have an 03 2500 5.9 diesel. Lately it takes more cranking to start and sometimes, not always, it seems to have a miss and valve chatter. The engine light has never come on, but definitely not running right. I changed the fuel filter, NO change. Any ideas???? Fuel ??? Timing ???

ramcharger

When I fill the fuel tank, excess fuel pours out over the tank. I got up under there and there are 2 hose ends with no hose. One at the front of the tank and the other at the sending/pick up unit. i found no lose or extra hoses any where. Got any ideas? Got any diagrams of the 2004 fuel tank and lines;

toadtoe

I don't know if my problem is the same. Usually won't start first time, but after a few trys (and just 'clicks'), the problem goes away and it starts all day. The solenoid is getting voltage but checking at the connector after the relay box, it takes a few seconds for the voltage to build up to 12 volts. I've cleaned connections, but obviously there isn't a broken wire, at least not yet. Does any of this ring a bell? Anyone else have an idea?

jason97

97 2500 5.9 cummins 5 speed n/v4500 trans 4wheel drive had some tranny work done.went to use 4 wheel drive.it did not work light would not come on front axle would not engae please help?

red777

the cheapest start would be to check your vaccum hoses and the vaccum horn on the front axle. dont just look and see if they are connected, make sure they dont leak, as well the vaccum horn on the front axle could be bad.

good luck

jason97

whay do you mean by vaccum horn? how would you check for leaks?

jason97

I know someone that was running off road fuel(heating oil) in a06 that they bought new they put 44k on it and was hard starting burnt up a starter changed fuel filters still the same. took it to a dealer they said clogged injectors from off road fuel.Had to replace all of thee injectors.

jason97

may be losing its prime when it sits was there ever any injector work done to it?

eric456

i have 06 cummings,which has oil accumalating on front of transmission a very little amount happens only when running .doesnt LEAK Over nite like oil pan leak a FEW OIL PAN BOLTS HAVE OIL ON AND WET oil appears when you drive truck is that oil coming from blowby tube

jond09

I also have an 06. My blowby tube extends just past the pan bolts an even if it leaked it would not show on the pan bolts. You could get a piece of tube just big enough to press onto the blowby tube to extend it past where you are seeing the oil build up to prevent any leakage from getting on anything. Then clean everthing off really well. Then if the problem continues you can atleast elliminate the blowby tube.

roland3

... I might start an argument, but these numbers would not bother me; especially with synthetic oil. If we go any further you might have to install an old mechanical bulb type gage to make the discussion worthwhile.

steve194

I have an 2008 Ram 2500 megacab which now has 22,000 miles. The check engine light started coming on after 6,000 miles. The first solution was that a sensor needed to be replaced. That lasted for a little while before I was back to the dealer with check engine light on again. This time the turbo needed to be cleaned. That lasted about 2 weeks before so then the dealer replaced the turbo at 12,000 miles. Now at 22,000 miles the engine light is back on again and the truck is in the shop. Their answer this time is cleaning the exhaust system and possible sensor replacement. All of this is covered under warranty now, but what happens after 36,000 miles and you are still having problems with the exhaust system? :mad:

tds566

I have same problem had update done on 2006 and mileage went downhill. I disonnected my battiers one day and mileage went from 16 to 19.5 then did battiers again and went back down no body can explain dealers not interested dodge customer service same thing did you find out anything. I think batteries sent ecm back to orginal not sure but no one can explain

barrc_ranch

But the fan is comming on too much in my oppinoin. Let me know if any one knows anything?

retman

I'm in the market for a used Dodge 2500 from 05 through 08. What years are better to look for than others? I'm seeing a lot of turbo soot issues and lift pump issues. Should I expect these with any year?

ramcharger

Well it seems you have answered your own question. The newer Dodges need to be worked to keep the system clean. Not designed for a car but work. This is just my opinion. I have an 04 that I bought used just recently. It's my first diesel.. Not really happy with the milage but it pulls the trailer.

gerry80026

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram that I just bought yesterday. This morning it fired up and about a minute later I started down our access road. When I tried to accelerate it boged down, didn't matter how much you depressed the accelerator. It would shift through the gears but very slow and more when you were going downhill. After about 5 minutes when the engine warmed up it was fine and ran like a bat outta hell. Is this a problem with the turbo?

roland3

... Extremely unlikely that it was the turbo. Much more like the lift/pre pump.