Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

jaysdodge

it ended up being the fuel rail pressure sensor not allowing my injectors to open up so the dodge is back on the road bustin trails through the snow just like it should be.

williamsum123

well it started back in april. i was driving back home when it was like i reached over and turned off the key i coasted off the road and waited a minute then hit the key it cranked over for about thirty seconds to a minute then fired up and i was on my way. Put about four hundred miles on it with out a problem then it did it again so i changed the fuel filter. But it kept doing the same thing. took the truck back to the dodge garage but they could not find the problem. So i kept driving it until i went to town which is only three miles from my house and it quit ten times in the three miles. So i took it to another dodge garage where they told me it was the high pressure injection pump. Which cost me over Twenty Two Hundred dollars they said they test drove it and there was no problems. so i went to pick it up started back home got a mile from the garage when it quit again. if anyone could help me out or has had any problems like this one because my patients are running thin and i am falling behind on my payments because of the service bills and it is my work truck

keeper34

95, 2500 5.9lit. 115,000 miles.
With the cold snaps going threw i plug my truck in just like everybody else. Well the other day i tripped a breaker and it sat while i was at work with no heat. Took me half the day to get it started, and in the process i killed my batteries trying to turn it over. Got a jump and it started. drove it around, let it idle just to get the batteries up to life. Well next morning i go out and the truck is dead. No lights, no clicking dead. I attributed this to the cold weather and old batteries so i replaced them last night. With new batteries truck started right up and no problems. Go out this morning to start plowing and the truck is dead. No lights, no clicking, no beeping, just dead. Any ideas why the truck all of a sudden after not moving more than 20 feet in the course of three days has a battery draw? No lights were left on and i found that the wire connecting the black terminal to the ground of the truck has rusted off, but that stil shouldnt cause a draw. Thanks for any help i get

KCRam

Since your question isn't specific to the Cummins itself, you may get a faster answer if you post in the Dodge Ram Lighting and Electrical Issues discussion.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

jaysdodge

i've found ur better off not taking a truck to dodge. most dealerships dont really have grade a diesel mechanics. u should try and find a place like something diesel. like in swift current ther is swift diesel , saskatoon has a saskatoon diesel, and edmonton has north american diesel. these kinds of places have actual knowledge and the right tools to find low fuel pressure problems. and ive had my truck to dodge many times but not no more, when they charge u for doing nothing.

jjricard

Any ony have some advive on this? My truck will not start, batteries and starter new. replaced fuel filter and pick up pump..It cranks over good but wont start. p/u pump comes on and pressure is good to the injector pump. someone told me to try the crank pos sensor so i replaced that but to no avail. I keep it plugged in. any advice greatly appreciated.

partsman2k

I have a 2000 dodge ram 3500 with the 24 valve 5.9 cummins with a 5 speed manual. The injector pump has been diaganosed as being weak. I allready replaced the lift pump. Im looking at buying a rebuild kit from E-bay for my pump. It comes with NO instructions. Cant find any instructions....Anywhere. What is your thought on trying to do this? I have rebuilt pumps before on heavy duty trucks. I figure If it dosent work the worst is, Im out $55.00 The price of the kit, and i'll still have to buy a rebuilt pump. And who knows I might get lucky and fix mine.

nuduner

I am posting this for my internet - challenged cousin, who doesn't own a computer. He has an '01 Ram 3/4 ton, Cummins diesel, 131000. Engine will occasionally idle high (1150 RPM). Turn engine off, will reset and idle normally. "Check engine" light on. Eventually will not run. Replaced "lever accelerator" (aka TPS) at 80000. Lasted 10 months. Replaced another 14 months after that. The one after that lasted 3 months. Apparently, this is a rather pricey item. Does anyone out there have any idea what might be causing these things to go out? He's got it in his mind that it might have something to do with the cruise control. Any advice or insight would be appreciated.

fordfan08

I know the 6.7 has been out for a couple years now and I was curious, does anyone know if the turbo still clogs up with ash and soot? If so under what driving conditions does it happen?

jake78

Were you having the no start problem before you changed the fuel filter and the lift pump (pickup pump)? If not what has likely happened is that you have introduced air into the fuel system when you replaced the filter....i've found that some trucks are easy to bleed the air out some are a real hassle. If you did not fill the filter up before installing you are going to have a lot of trouble filling up the filters with the lift pump. What you can try is loosening the fuel lines maybe 3 lines either at the injection pump or where they enter the cylinder head but only one side of the fuel line. Try bumping the starter if the lift pump is electronic you should be able to hear it if not electric you have to pump it by hand and that really sucks because they are never in an easy spot to access. Once fuel is present where ever you loosened to fuel line at tighten it back down. And when i say loosen don't completely loosen just loosen a thread or 2. If that doesn't work leave the lines loose get a friend and have them crank the engine for about 15 to 20 seconds at a time. Tighten fuel lines back up as fuel becomes present if the fuel is bubbling from the lines that is not enough fuel has to be spraying out of the lines before you tighten back down.

cmeadows

I have 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 that came with the California emissions.
I have not liked the transmission on this truck since day one of owning it. It shifts hard and you never know when it will shift.
The truck lacks power and torque which gives me a problem since I bought it to pull my fifth wheel camper.
I recently had the Cal. emissions removed and added a cold air intake filter which helped the power and mileage some, but the transmission will not shift down to pass or gain speed when needed.
I had the local Dodge dealership check out the transmission and they say everything works perfectly.
Am I expecting to much from this truck or is there anything that can be done to help this problem?

jake78

I might be able to help you out more if you were to tell me the engine i'm guessing its an ISB but what size? Also the make and model of the transmission would help. But here's a general check you might want to make. When you removed all the emmisions did you ever have engine ECM recalibrated or atleast checked to see what calibration is in it? With the truck originally being from california even though you have removed the emissions you may still have parameters inside the ECM that are keeping the horse power down. Have them hook up to the ECM and check the features and parameters. Check what torque limits, rpm limits, ect. They should know more than me about what they need to change. With some luck you may not have to recalibrate the ECM (which actually only takes about an hour but i have no idea how much it costs) you can manually change some of the parameters which ones i dont know some are locked and can only be changed with a new calibation. You would be amazed how much power you can take away and add to a cummins engine just by changing the calibration. If you need more help or that doesnt work feel free to write back.

labennett5

I have a 2000 Ram 2500 turbo diesel with a starting problem. I narrowed the problem down to either the ignition switch or the bypass jumper. Where do I find the bypass jumper to check it?

jake78

By bypass jumper do you mean starter relay? I've seen them in 2 placed either fasened to the firewall or bolted right to the starter. ive only seen the relay bolted right to the starter on 07 cummins so id focus on the firewall. what youll be looking for is a black box with a small wiring diagram on it (depending on how it is mounted you may or may not see it.) It's not big maybe an inch by an inch it should be mounted to the firewall with only 1 bolt or stud/nut. Try the upper half of the firewall on the driverside.

schecterguy

Okay guys i'm having a huuuge problem. Last night I borrowed my dad's truck, 99 Ram 2500 24 valve turbo diesel, for work. It was about 20 degrees out when I got out, I started it, and I didn't really give it a chance to warm up i guess. I got about fifty feet, and it just died. All lights on, full battery, cranks, but won't start :sick:
It has a quarter tank of gas, and I can hear the fuel pump kick on and off.
I don't know what to do here, but he's completely flipping at me. What do I do!!
I'm a jeep guy, and have absolutely no knowledge whatsoever about diesel engines.
Thank you in advance!

Richard

jjricard

unfortunately, i dont have solution yet, but im leaning toward replacing the injection pump in my 98 2500 24 valve. the same thing happened to me, but i let it warm up for 15 minutes, had it plugged in(it was 2 degrees the morning it quit). i havn't had any responses to my message. also i checked it for fault codes and no faults were logged. ill let you know if i figure it out, good luck. probably not your fault though.
?? did you try to add 911(in the case it is just a jelling issue)

ramsport

Hi there, I'm new to this but hopefully I can get some help. I have a 00 2500 5.9L 24V with 119K. So if the truck sits for an extended period of time (ie. over night or all day at work) it starts and runs without a problem except for the tach not working sometimes. If it sits for a short amount of time such as going in to a store or even a few hours it'll fire up then die. It'll do this sometimes only twice in a row or up to 5 time before it stays running. I had a crank sensor code so i replaced it, no change. It also has a P1689 code "No comm between ECM and IPM". I ran through the tests that I found on Alldata and found nothing wrong. Someone please tell me I dont have to replace the ECM or the Injector pump please. Thanks

blackone

I have taken my 2007 RAM diesel in at least four times now due to the infamous engine light and finally they said they had to replace the turbo on it. That has been about 800 miles ago and the engine light has not come on. I only have about 13000 miles on my truck. Has anyone else had satisfactory results with the engine light not coming on after replacing the turbocharger? I am hoping this was the magic bullet but realize that it is too soon to know yet.

Blackone

gwt3383

Someone please help me!! My truck became hard to start in one day. It was hard to crank over the next 2 days and now it won't start at all. This is what I have done thus far.
1. Changed fuel filter
2. Changed air filter
3. Replaced lift pump in tank
4. Test the high pressure pump (volume) and it is ok
5. Checked grid heater and it is working
6. Plugging in the block heater dose not help
7. Have the following error codes: P0073, P0107 & P0336
Occasionally, I can get it to start and it runs good with no missing, etc. but I am afraid to drive it anywhere because it won't start after it cools off.
What should I do next?

rs6309

mine is doing the same thing have a 2004 3500 5.9 deisel my code says lift pump

KCRam

All three error codes are for sensors -
P0073-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0107-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0336-crankshaft Position Sensor Performance
This is probably a job for the dealer. You likely spent unnecessary money on some of the items you replaced.

I had an issue on my 2005 3500 where the Battery Temp Sensor was annoyed and would not allow the truck to start until it got its act together (the repeated cranking likely created some heat in the battery that cured whatever was ailing the sensor), but it only happened once.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

rs6309

your 2004 dodge what was the fix? mine is doing exactly the same thing ... what fixed it??

rs6309

your 2004 dodge what was the fix? mine is doing exactly the same thing ... what fixed it??

rs6309

my 2004 3500 will run flawlessly....then it will stall doesnt matter how fast im going it just stalls.. then normally within 30 seconds to 2 minutes it will decide to start might run for hours???? help

rs6309

did you get it fixed?

gwt3383

Not yet - I got it started once and it runs fine after it starts. The problem is just during start up. I ran it for about an hour around town, etc. I returned home and killed it and haven't gotten it cranked since then. It wouldn't even crank immediately after shutting it off. Do you know what the error codes are telling me? I was told by a hometown mechanic that P0336 is "crankshaft position performance sensor". No one around here has the equipment to test this vehicle. Our Dodge dealership closed about 2 years ago and I have to travel quite a distance to another one.

P.S. The few times that I started it was when I have had the block heater plugged in even though it has not been below 40 degrees at any time. This whole problem came on immediately. It started and ran anytime with no problems on one day and the next day it did not want to start easily and now it is very difficult to get it going.

Thanks for your inquiry. Any ideas?

dfraley

I have a 2008 and at about 11,000 miles I started having the engine light problems with turbo issues after 6 times in the shop they replaced the turbo. I have put about 10,000 miles on the since the replacement and have not had any problems with the light or the turbo I still hope this corrected my problem

felt

The 6.7 has been out several years now, have the early problems been resolved? I have wonderd, were the problems Dodge's or Cummins? Does Cummins provide the electronics? or just the engine, including the turbo, and Dodge provide the electronics?

In late 2006 when I bought, I could have purchased either a late 06 or an early 07. I am glad I followed the dealers recommendation and went for the 06. Thus far, it has performed flawlessly .... no issues at all. Great power, good mileage.

sangleton

2007 Dodge 6.7L was accounced JAN07 and first shipment was MAR07.
Cummins engineered a variable geometry Turbo. This allows computer dynamic controlled boost change within any amount of engine exhaust output.
Your repeat engine light is probably turbo speed or boost pressure. WHY? The computer is applying geometry changes to the turbo,but after a number of failed events then the light comes on.
Your Turbo Charger geometry plates are sticking. Soot is most common, but if the light returns then the turbo charger is likely bad, of course so can be the sensors. The sensor replacements will delay the Turbo replacement $$$ and if it is soot cause of sticking blades then the exhaust brake usage may fix, too!
Remember if the Variable Geometry Turbo is sticking due to manufacture defect, then Replace the Turbo Charger. I had this done everythings is OK now! But what a fight it is because the VGT is very very expensive!!

pauliney

I've got a 2007megacab 2500 with a 6.7L cummins engine.
Engine light stays on .Fault codes displayed are P1451,P2463,P0405,P0037.
O/head display says catalyst full svc req'd.
Code P1451 is diesel particulate filter,does this mean the catalyst needs replacing.Unable to clear codes.

stoking

I have a 2004.5 Dodge Diesel 5.9 motor. Up until now has preformed Great. After tanking up I noticed the Malfunction indicator light was staying on. I also experienced a brief loss of power that went away after a few minuets. The light is still staying on. I did the ignition on off test and it showed the numbers Po 633 ,Po 514 and Po237..I have no Idea what this means..Any leads out their? Thanks

KCRam

Your DPF is indicating that it is unable to burn off the collected pollutants. This will likely be a dealer service if you can't get the DPF to go into "burn mode".

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

jake78

Im not 100% sure what all those codes are but you will have to take you truck to either a dodge dealership or a cummins shop. the catalyst and the diesel particulate filter (DPF) are part of cummins aftertreatment system. In short it takes the exhaust gas and extra fuel dumped to the exhaust (the fuel reacts with the catalyst to make higher temps roughly 1000F) and then turns the exhaust in to water and nitrogen if i remember correctly. As a by product it leaves behind ash which gets left in the DPF and its completly normal. Now where the problem comes in is if you do a lot of city driving the system is not able to go in to what cummins calls a regen cycle or it will not complete the regen cycle. and somehow this makes the DPF fill faster. They are able to remove the DPF and clean it where they will put it in a machine that blows air in the out side of the filter and vaccums on the in side emptying the DPF since ash can only be manually removed. They will then put it back together and tell you do drive on a highway for about an hour or they will do a stationary regen where the vehicle will regen while sitting still. Depending on where you are percentage wise of the DPF (30% full, 50%, 60% ect.) you maybe able to solve this yourself by enabling a stationary regen (i have no idea how you do this you probably have a button somewhere on the dash or consult your owners manual) or run down an interstate for about an hour or longer. The vehicle should let you know if you are able to do this if you enable to regen and it does not respond or starts a regen then stop ( the RPM's should pick up when enabled) check a few things.... if you have an active fault code this could knock it out of regen also make sure your foot is not on the brake clutch or throttle pedal. if DPF is too full (over 85%) i believe...... the regen will not start. The catalyst will be fine they use to replace them if any fluid is present in the down pipe behind the turbo but they have changed their thinking on that one they now just clean the DPF and run a regen.

KCRam

P0237 = Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor Low
P0514 = Battery Temperature Sensor Performance
P0633 = SKIM Key Not Programmed in PCM

(BTW, those are zeroes in the codes, as opposed to the letter "O" in case you were trying to look them up on the web.)

I have had personal experience with P0514 on my 2005 3500... would not allow the truck to start for about 45 minutes after sitting overnight near 0°F. The Battery Temp Sensor is located under the driver's side battery and if it either gets unusually cold or malfunctions, it assumes the ambient air is too cold to safely use the batteries in max cranking amp (starting) situations.

P0237 likely caused your power loss. The engine went into failsafe mode to avoid
turbo damage.

P0633 usually means a malfunction with the Sentry Key.

Considering all of these together, I'd say your truck's computer may have burped and needs some attention.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

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jake78

This may sound dumb but you're 100% sure you put desiel fuel in the tank? (you'd be surprised how many times people put gas in the tank) may also have gotten a bad batch of fuel.

jaamen

fuel pump engages, I can wiggle the starter relay and it will start. new relay didn't help matters any. help!

oly2

Can any one tell me what kind of fuel mileage I should be getting. I drive conservatively. I am getting 12 to 13 per gal. The truck has 187000 on it I replaced the injectors.exhaust system and put a cold air air system on it. also keep up on all regular maintance.
Any help or advise will be appreciated.

ssaari

I have a 2003 3500 diesel quad cab 4x4 my average is 16 mpg and out on the open road it has gotten to 19 - 20, I still running stock cold air & exhaust and my area its get climate ranges fron -25 to -30 to 100 + and I still average 16

KCRam

I had a 96 3500 Club Cab 4x4 dually with the 4-speed automatic and 3.54 axles. I had no trouble breaking 20 mpg on the highway the whole 9 years I owned it, and had a best tank of 24.3.

A few questions:

- Which transmission and axle do you have, and are you running stock-size tires?

- Do you keep a lot of excess weight in the cab and/or bed?

- At that mileage, the engine should have had 4 valve lash adjustments by now (24K, 72K, 120K, 168K)... have those been done?

- Have you ever replaced the throttle cable, either on your own or after the recall about 7-1/2 years ago?

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

cory6

my 98 dodge cummins 2500 wont start at ignition switch but i can jump it at starter or at starter relay i have put a new starter on and a ignition switch i have moved relays around that dident help so before i spend more $ on something that dont help i wanted to ask for help from someone that might have had the same trouble or some one that would know whats going on what do i do next

mtcutters

Thinking of buying new Ram 3500. lots of options for year 2007, 2008 ,2009. whats the best year for the 6.7? does it matter? bets deals on 2007 any known problems motor, tranny?

cory6

i figured out why my 98 dodge cummins would not start at ignition switch the wire behind the fuse box on the 30amp jcas fuse in the ignition run slot on fuse box under the hood was broke at the wire connector on the no power side so it would not switch the power over to the starter relay easy fix but a pain to figure out so if any one has the same trouble try looking there first thanks to everyone who was trying to think of what my trucks problem was

mckenzie101

I have a 2007 and I wish I would have waited on the 2008. I'm still having some issues with the Turbo. They have already installed one new one. Also my power steer pump went out and they were on ntl back order. The 2008 should have most of the bugs worked out.

oly2

Thanks for the input on the mileage. I don't know what the rear axle is I think it is
3:54. I did changed the tire size to 285/75R/16. I have also kept up on the valve adjustment. By changing to a taller tire would that make my mileage seam less when in reality it has not changed. Yes I did replace the throttle cable. Thanks oly2

KCRam

Definitely get the speedometer cable adjusted for the new tires. Your mileage may be better than you're calculating.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

barrc_ranch

I have a 2002 dodge ram 2500 4x4 cummins. totally stock. i was wondering where the temp should be on average? and what is the hottest it should be getting while driving?

jaimec

any body i have a o7dodge ram 5.9 diesel when towing a 5 wheel up hill the tranny over heats to about 235 but not over heating in flat road :confuse:

jaimec

under 200 deg.

dsmitty1

I drive about 35 miles per day to work, 8 of those miles is city. I get 13.5 mpg. Highway unloaded I get 16 and towing my 5th wheel I get 8.5. The dealer has updated the computer chip and checked the boost, all within specks. Can anyone give me an honest answer on what kind on mpg I should expect? I have talked to Cummins and they say it is on the lower end. Any ideas?

oly2

I have the same problem with my 96, the same engine 5.9. The HOST brought to my attention about my tire size. My tire size is about one to two inches taller then the stock tire. I am going to have my speedometer checked. This might be your problem. Hope this gives you some help.