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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

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Comments

  • Hi,
    I would ask the dealer to prove the water content. Isn't there a warning light on the dash that says water in fuel? Call Chrysler direct. If not go after the cardlock dealer. Best of luck and don't give up.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The fuel filter/separator should indeed trigger the dash warning light, but if your tank really was 2/3rds water, that may have overwhelmed it and the engine failed immediately.

    Definitely look to file a claim against the fuel station - if that's where the water came from, you won't be alone.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • I am getting fault signals on my 2001 Ram with cummings diesel. I wanted to know if I had fixed anything by cleaning some terminals. How can I reset the computer?
    Thanks.... ps... see my post... I disconnected the batteries and cleaned them and it totally changed my automatic transmission. It shifts perfectly now. Before would get stuck between gears, would have to punch it to get it to shift, very sluggish. Now I swear it shifts like a honda. What did I do?
  • manlawn04manlawn04 Posts: 4
    Today, July 26, 2007, I tried to start 96 2500 and engine just turned over, no fire at all. Ran great yesterday and before that for last two years, no problem at all. Does anyone know what the problem might be??? The repair wants to send hook but I would like to get information in case it happens again. SOMEONE HELP
  • manlawnmanlawn Posts: 5
    Just where is th.po.se. located? And while I have you, do you know the Ph# for Chry,div. for cummings??? I was told that valves on 96 were self adjusting, is this correct?? You could reply to email: [email protected] if this allowed.
  • manlawnmanlawn Posts: 5
    After I was asked if they should send a "hook" tow truck, I looked at batteries and noticed a wire had come loose. I should have remember that because when I first got truck the same wire did damage. Next time I will look there first. If some of you are have a starting problem, look at the small wires coming off battery. So for going on and on but I did locate a problem and will know where to look if this happens again.
  • 01dually01dually Posts: 1
    :cry: We have a 2001 Dodge Ram Dually 3500 5.9L Diesel. This past weekend we went away for vacation. We parked the truck and then about 10 minutes later we were asked to move it. We started it up and went to move, it puked a little and just stalled out. It took a few tries, but it did re-start. Then it did the same thing the next day. We replaced the filter, primed it, new 0-ring...blah blah blah. Truck sat overnight and in the morning we were preparing to leave and it died on us again before we could get moving. It did this 6 or 7 times, it finally started and blew a ton of white and blue smoke!! A friend of ours kept bleeding the air out of it. He said it is sucking air somewhere. Finally got it started and got it home, but then it died completely as we were taking a golf cart back. We had to be towed home. It will not re-start this time. Not even sure where to start with it. Some people are telling us it is the injectors, a crack or a bad fitting in the fuel lines, a lift pump, an injector pump, or just bad fuel. If anyone can give me some guidance, that would be great. Just want to know where to start. :confuse:
  • manlawnmanlawn Posts: 5
    Well, first of all, I read a posting about the fix for rpm and wish to thank the person that gave me the cure. Now I wish to pass it on... First,Dodge Ram 2500, TURN on key but don't start, leave it on and then disconnect both batteries and leave disconnected for about 1/2 hr to 1 hr.
    Then turn key off, connect batteries (CLEANED of course) then turn key to on, then pushing foot feed down and back up Start and drive to see if it works for you. I can only say that it almost stopped all rpm jumping. ALso, I cleaned all connector on transmission,(4) with carburator cleaner, blem excess fluid off. Sound difficult but not. I do notice a big difference in the shifting problem. SORRY, for going on and on but a new truck with 1996 body, love it.
  • manlawnmanlawn Posts: 5
    Well, first of all, I read a posting about the fix for rpm and wish to thank the person that gave me the cure. Now I wish to pass it on... First,Dodge Ram 2500, TURN on key but don't start, leave it on and then disconnect both batteries and leave disconnected for about 1/2 hr to 1 hr.
    Then turn key off, connect batteries (CLEANED of course) then turn key to on, then pushing foot feed down and back up Start and drive to see if it works for you. I can only say that it almost stopped all rpm jumping. ALso, I cleaned all connector on transmission,(4) with carburator cleaner, blew excess fluid off. Sounds difficult but not. I do notice a big difference in the shifting problem. SORRY, for going on and on but a new truck with 1996 body, love it.
  • dmcabeedmcabee Posts: 1
    2006 dodge diesel cummins turbo. not sure what the running temp is. when pulling 16 ft. box trailer and running a/c the temp gets up a little over 200o. is this normal? any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    For that load, that temp is about right. My 2005 Cummins is about 180° running empty on the highway.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • My first american vehicle - an 06 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins. I like the truck very much.

    A day or two ago, Cerberus, the new private owners of the majority share of Chrysler appointed their new CEO - Bob Nardelli. Don't know of him? I'll bet we all know his handywork. If you walked into a Home Depot over the last 4 years or so, and got red faced like the huge numbers of folks complaining that there was no customer service whatsoever, you know him. He turned the books around, but customers left in droves because it appeared Home Depot couldn't care less about their customers. That's Bob! And now he's going to head up the new Chrysler. I just hope someone makes the new Chrysler keep more of an eye on the customer first, then the books. If not, all of us Chrysler/Dodge owners are going to be left in the cold.

    PS. And someone tell Chrysler that there new vehicles are great except for one BIG thing - whats with all the hard, cheap plastic for their dashboards? I thought it was just my truck, but got a new charger as a rental car this week and it's the same cheap junk. More hard plastic than the Chinese toy section at K-mart. Go back to the semi-padded vinyl PLEASE!
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Titanium29, I couldn't agree with you more! I am convinced that if Dodge didn't put a Cummins Diesel in their full size trucks they probably would have gone out of business a long time ago. Their transmissions are almost just as bad as the interior. However; once you put a upgraded trans. which should happen at about 50,000 miles if you tow a lot, 70,000 if you don't. Then your truck will be perfect and out last any Ford or Chevy. Crazy but it's true!! thanks Carnut
  • 98 Dodge 3500, 2wd, 5 speed man., 24 valve diesel. 265k miles. I am having problems with it not starting after I shut it off. It just cranks and cranks, and it is like someone shut the fuel off. It started about 1 month ago. It used to start within 1/2 sec of cranking. Then it started taking up to 5 sec before firing up. Now, sometimes it starts, delayed and others it does not start at all. The only way to start it is to use a little starting fluid in the air intake. I don't like doing this, but it is the only way. Once started, it runs perfect, idles great, plenty of power, no problems at all, until I shut it off. The fuel pump seems ok, it is not lagging the engine. Fuel is getting through the filter ok. Air filter is clean. I do have a cracked exhaust manifold. The local Dodge people sucked, and did not know what it was. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • bdonhbdonh Posts: 3
    2001 Cummings knocking on pull or deceleration is high not crank or deep knock no knock even at 80 mph no load have a 2001 cummins, 6 sp tran Was going down a steep hill after a hard climb Was going to slingshot the next hill hauling a 36' fifth wheel Went from 5th to 4th instead of 5th to 6th over revved for a second or two, shifted back to 5th and climbed the hill when the load leveled off had a light knock high not deep like crank No loss of power and no leakage of oil or water no MISSING Was in the middle of desert and was best to go on The knock would come and go When I leveled the speed at 70mph it ran with out any knock if I climbed a hill or down shifted to go down a hill knocking would return I loosened the fuel line to all the injectors one at a time and revved engine and let off knock remained the same on deceleration When the injector fuel line was loosened the engine missed on that cylender. Pulled the pan plastigaged all rods Had good clearance mains ok as well I was getting ready to pull the head and look for a wrist pin or piston with collapsed skirt Was told it could be a thrust knock Is this possible if so how to check for this also I found no metal in oil or oil pan
  • bdonhbdonh Posts: 3
    dodge did a recall on the transfer fuel pump will fix it free if yours is one of the recalls sounds like your problem
  • bdonhbdonh Posts: 3
    have a 2001 cummins, 6 sp tran Was going down a steep hill after a hard climb Was going to slingshot the next hill hauling a 36' fifth wheel Went from 5th to 4th instead of 5th to 6th over revved for a second or two, shifted back to 5th and climbed the hill when the load leveled off had a light knock high not deep like crank No loss of power and no leakage of oil or water no MISSING Was in the middle of desert and was best to go on The knock would come and go When I leveled the speed at 70mph it ran with out any knock if I climbed a hill or down shifted to go down a hill knocking would return I loosened the fuel line to all the injectors one at a time and revved engine and let off knock remained the same on deceleration When the injector fuel line was loosened the engine missed on that cylender. Pulled the pan plastigaged all rods Had good clearance mains ok as well I was getting ready to pull the head and look for a wrist pin or piston with collapsed skirt Was told it could be a thrust knock Is this possible if so how to check for this also I found no metal in oil or oil pan
  • Ditto, CarNut17. I would not have gotten anywhere near a Dodge truck if it weren't for the Cummins motor for towing a big load. And yes, I am aware of their pathetic track record for sad transmissions. I looked to put an extended service contract on the powertrain, but they wanted a mint to cover basically just the tranny, since the Cummins is covered for 100,000 and 5 years.
    But, I am curious. What do you mean by "an upgraded transmission"? I'm intrigued. I just figured it would go to the dealer who would swap it with another rebuilt for another 50,000. How/where do you get one put together and installed that IS bullet-proof?

    PS. Even all the talking heads on CNN and FoxNews are bemoaning Bob's placement at the helm. They say "wave goodbye to whatever talent Chrysler had that was sticking around to see what happened". I guess Monster.com will come out ahead from all the resume postings from Chrysler folks!!
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Titanium, My transmission started to slip about 80,000 miles. You have to do some shopping around to find a good transmission shop (HONEST) I found the most ethical and knowledgeable guy here in Sacramento Ca. He told and showed me exactly what i needed. To over simplify things you need kevlar bands and clutches. A valve body which increases your line pressure which increases the holding power(resists slipping) of your torque converter. A heavy duty torque converter is a must if your going to tow, one that has a double or triple clutch ring inside. I can give you his shop # if you like. Thanks Carnut17
  • My 1998 Dodge 3500, 2wd, 5 speed man., diesel sits on about 180* pulling a 16' cargo trailer. With a heavy load, hill climbing, 100* + temp outside, it sits on about 190 - 200*
  • hpleesehpleese Posts: 10
    I did the same on my old 91 with a 3 speed trans. Took the locking torque converter out and went to 3 ring. heavy duty clutches and plates and heavy duty springs in the valve body, This was done at 280,000 miles, now I am at 356,000 and have changed the fluid twice. Only other recommendation is to us the chrysler ATF 4. Better quality oil.
  • Carnut. Thanks for the feedback. What you say makes perfect sense, and I have also heard (like another reply stated) that you must ALWAYS use only Mopar ATF unless you want to send a Chrysler tranny to a very early grave. Sacramento is on the other side of the US from me, but if you had any parts detail on the work he did, that would be great. One question though. Why would a three-ring torque converter with a high pressure valve body be better than a locking torque converter that is on my rig and engages with the "tow/haul" button being pressed? I would think that would prevent any slipping at all, at least when towing on the highway. Or were you speaking of a model year prior to that feature? Does the shop you used have a website? I could contact them there too to get the scoop on what they do to make a tranny bullet-proof.
  • hpleesehpleese Posts: 10
    If your on east coast there is a trans shop in Franklin NJ that specializes in beefing up your trans. I can't remeber the name of place.
  • map602map602 Posts: 1
    Hello Carnut17,
    Who did you find in Sacramento to do your transmission? How were their prices. My Dodge Ram 2500 V10's reverse finally went out. Been hearing a lot of noise like water running when the vehicle starts.
    Thank you,

    Mike
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Titanium, i will be in touch with answers to your good questions. I havn't forgotten about you. Thanks Carnut
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Map602 The shop which rebuilt my transmission is A.T.O. Advaced Transmission operations (916)636-3283 This shop was very well known in the 80s and 1990s and his shop was covered in numerous articles of Four Wheeling and Hot Rodding Magazine for their excellent transmission buildups. Hopefully Titanium is reading this post also, the following is a list of what they do. Raybestos clutches/bands, Felpro double lip metal clad seals/gaskets; All rotational bushings are replaced w/needle bearings, Thrust bearings are also needle bearings. High psi Valve body is modified and machined( NO psi/fluid seepage) Heavyduty overdrive/low gear sprag. 4.0 front servo lever. Heavy Duty 3 disc torque converter, low stall stator. new front pump package, deep transmission pan, billet input shaft tested for over 1,000Lbs of torque, updated 5 pinion steel planetary gears(very important!)included is manual lock up switch to lock up torque converter in any gear and a transmission temp. gauge. Inaddition, you can watch your transmission being put together and or installed if you wish. Warranty is three years or 30,000 miles. Price is $4,000.00 to 5,500.00
  • Good stuff, Carnut! Thanks for the feedback. I'll print and tuck it away for when I get there. One thing though that I think got past you or Dusty. Mine is an 06 CTD with the auto. The gear shift has a "tow/haul" setting that locks up the torque converter in everything over 1st gear when about about 40 mph. Is this a new feature that makes the tranny last longer before torque converter failure, and address the 3 ring/high pressure TC part of your configuration, or is it "just a benny" when towing on the highway? Thx.
  • My 1994 5.9 cummins did the exact same thing. They are still working on it and say it is sucking air somewhere. I replaced lift pump didn't fix. Replaced fuel lines up to the braided line that goes into preheater, still won't prime. So now they are thinking of replacing the braided line and possibly the preheater. Did you get your truck running and if so please tell me what fixed it.
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Rackon, try replacing the overflow valve on the fuel tank return line. It is located on the injector pump just where the return line exits the pump. It kind of looks like a bolt threaded into another bolt and then theirs a steel line coming out. These valves fail and allow air to be reverse suck into the pump when the truck has been sitting. Let me know Thanks Carnut17
  • Thanks for the info but they found the problem. It was a cracked fitting where the fuel line goes in on the preheater(I think there is another name for it) down by the lift pump. They replaced the preheater assembly, pumped the primer 5 times and she started right up. Runs like a top and actually has a bit more power than it did. It probably had been sucking a little air for some time. I will keep in mind the overflow valve. I hear they go bad often. Hope this helps others.
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