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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

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Comments

  • thanksthanks Posts: 2
    Presently, I am driving a 2001 Dodge Diesel and am looking at buying an 2008. I pull a 8500 lb. bumper pull trailer. I am thinking about an 2008 gas and was wondering if anyone out there has had experience pulling with gas and diesel. I pull approximately 3,000 miles per year and I am thinking the gas, in general, will do the job. The cost of diesel fuel and engine is a factor. Any advice will be appreciated.
    Ray
  • ghudsghuds Posts: 8
    You were right the first time! Fifth gear cluster had 3 broken teeth - trans shop warranteed the labor but said that gears are not covered in the warrantee. $300.00 fix, is this reasonable?
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    IF YOU ARE TOWING 8500 POUNDS I THINK YOU SHOULD STAY WITH THE DIESEL. BE WARNED THAT THE 2007 DODGE 2500 HEAVY DUTY WITH THE NEW 6.7 CUMMINS AND BLUTEC EMISSIONS HAVE CHRONIC CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEMS. I BOUGHT ONE 5 MONTHS AGO AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON 7 TIMES AND ALL HAVE BEEN DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE NEW EMISSIONS SYSTEM. I RECENTLY REQUESTED DODGE BUY MY TRUCK BACK SO I CAN GO BACK TO A GAS ENGINE . OTHER THAN THE C E LIGHT COMING ON THE TRUCK RUNS GREAT AND HAS UNBELIEVABLE TORQUE AND THE NEW 6 SPEED AUTOMATIC WORKS GREAT. THIS WILL BE THE BEST 3/4 TON TRUCK ON THE MARKET WHEN THEY GET THE C E LIGHT PROBLEM FIXED. GOOD LUCK ON YOUR CHOICE. BY THE WAY , MY DEALER TOLD ME THEY HAVEN'T HAD ANY 2008 DIESELS COME WITH ANY CE LIGHT PROBLEMS. GOOD LUCK
  • That particular problem has a TSB for reprogramming the computer and burning out the soot to clear the MIL light and fix the cause. I am also told that simply running the new CID engine on highway speeds for a good number of miles, rather than short trips, like to/from work all the time will prevent the NOX particulate filter from plugging in the first place. While annoying, it really isnt an engine problem. It's an emission control problem that avoiding short trips and long idle problems largely prevents.
  •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
  • $300.00 IS A VERY REASONABLE PRICE FOR THAT REPAIR. IT WAS NICE OF THE REPAIR SHOP TO COVER THE LABOR. COUNT YOUR BLESSINGS AND HAVE A GREAT DAY
  • guy7guy7 Posts: 9
    I have a 2006 3500 CTD and was wondering at what mileage could I do a change over to synthetic oil. Some of my mechanic budies are of the opinion that there should be at least 12000 miles on the engine before I change over. Others suggest that some of the seals may not be compatible with synthetic oil and will deteriorate quickly. Does anybody have some sound advice. I do want to use synthetic, I believe it is far better than regular oil. What range of synthetic oil should I use as I live where temperatures go from one extreme to another? Are some brands far superior to others?
  • I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE 2006 MODEL BUT MY 2007 DIESEL CAN RUN ON 5 W 40 SYNTHETIC STARTING ANYTIME. IT HAS TO BE FORMULATED FOR THE DIESEL ENGINES SUCH AS SHELL ROTELLA DIESEL SYNTHETIC. CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR OIL RECOMMENDATIONS. THE DIESEL SYNTHETIC IS ALSO LESS EXPENSIVE THAN THE REGULAR SYNTHETIC. GOOD LUCK
  • Ick!!!! That sounds more like a REAL pain in the neck. Hang in there. I think if you get it solved, you'll really enjoy the truck. I got "lucky" myself. My dealer shared with me that the '07's were going to have the cat-back stuff, so I jumped on the '06 model with the 5.9 for that very reason.....and I love the truck. I'm at 20K without any real issues. Just a recirc door failure which they fixed very quickly for free. Hope you get it settled out! T29
  • The last person is telling u is true the bad thing with biodiesel it gells quickly and u need to talk to manufactor that u are getting ur diesel from some additives will not mix with biodiesel and actually cause a chemical reaction. Just to let u know. I try not to run it in the winter. If u have this problem and causes injector problems the dealer will not warrenty it with biodiesel.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,651
    What range of synthetic oil should I use as I live where temperatures go from one extreme to another? Are some brands far superior to others?

    We switched our 06 Ram 3500 CTD over to Amsoil 5W-40 synthetic at about 20k, not so much waiting for break in more like a lazy husband! Truck runs even better on synthetic, better fuel economy, easier cold starting, in general a happier truck. I think if you are over the 10k mark you should be fine switching.
  • My truck started acting goofy the other day. I was running ond the highway at 60mph and took my foot off the gas, the truck kept running at 60 but it had RPM fluctuation or surging, by the way the cruise control was off. Got off the highway and it did the same thing at low speed and wouldn't come down in RPM until i applied brake pressure- quite hard. Stopped and idling, I tapped the gas pedal and it raced to about 2000 rpm and stayed there for about 20 seconds and then came back to 750rpm. I had to make a few stops around town and about 2 hours after the problem began, the truck died when i put it into reverse while backing into a parking spot. The truck would not start again unless ether was shot into the air cleaner and then it only ran for seconds. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • I got a MIL light that went off after a few "run cycles", but the codes are still in memory. No place on the web, Autozone, has the descriptions, and all my dealer tells me is "you better bring it in". Sure they do. They want their bucks. If it is serious, no problem. If not, I don't have time to take my vehicle in every time the MIL light comes on. So, does ANYBODY know what these two OBD codes reference? Thanks......P0514 and P0071
  • MY ADVISE TO YOU IS TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE DODGE DEALER . THEY HAVE FACTORY TRAINED TECHS THAT KNOW A LOT MORE ABOUT YOUR TRUCK THAN THE INDEPENDENTS KNOW. THE DEALER CAN ACTUALLY SAVE YOU MONEY IN MANY CASES OVER AN INDEPENDENT SIMPLY BECAUSE THEY HAVE BETTER KNOWLEDGE OF YOUR TRUCK. I AM THE SHOP FOREMAN IN A DEALERSHIP AND I SEE PEOPLE COME TO US AFTER SPENDING A TON OF MONEY WITH SOME SHADE TREE MECHANIC JUST TO FIND OUT WHEN THEY BRING IT TO US IT WAS SOMETHING SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE. GOOD LUCK!
  • Actually, my local dealer is very good, and I would take it to them first shot before an independent mechanic for two reasons. One, it's under warranty, and two, because I agree with the reasons you give. But, I don't know about you or other folks, but I work for a living and taking my vehicle in is a real pain. It needs to be a REAL issue. I also know that these OBD codes can be thrown almost when the guy at the red light next to you picks his nose and farts at the same time. So, what I really want to know is what do these codes indicate? From that, I'll know if it warrants the complete inconvenience of taking the truck in, or possibly not. Especially since the MIL has already gone out, indicating three run cycles since without the same condition. Anybody know what they mean?
  • ghudsghuds Posts: 8
    I don't know what year your truck is but everything I've got says P0514 is "Battery Temp. Sensor CKT Range/ Perf." and P0071 is "Ambient Air Temp. Sensor Range / Perf." Hope this helps.
  • Thanks very much. It is an '06 3500. And, what you describe starts to "click" as a. not too concerning, and b.a possible direct impact of.....tada.....the winter front I made out of good tarp materials and have had on for about 30 days. Sounds like maybe I covered up a temp sensor or something. If I get it again, I'll remove the winter front and see how it goes. One more question for our smarter (than I) forum peeps, is there a way to clear the codes other than a dealer visit, or will they clear themselves after so much time without the OBD getting them again? I ask because I would hate to have another real issue down the road that these codes existing in memory might confuse. Thanks very much for your help! J.Davis
  • jond09jond09 Posts: 17
    In most cases if you disconnect your battery for two minutes or so it will reset itself. Might want to do both on your truck to be safe. That is if it just through a code and theirs not a continuous problem. Sometimes certain conditions will cause your vehicle to through a code but there is no real ongoing problem. Or if you invest in a programmer most all of them now can read and clear codes. Or any mechanic shop with a decent scanner could read and clear your codes for $75 or less. If they charge you more than that, go to someone else.
  • I have a 2008 2500 diesel 6.7.I would like to know if there is any way to run off road (dyed) fuel in this engine with out stopping up the PDM filter.Also if not can the filter be taken off and a pipe put back in its place.I know there are sensors on the system and fittens can put back on a pipe to keep the in the system.I also need to know if there is a programing computer to reprogram to do this.thanks .
  • sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem.most diesels will do that when they are running out of fuel or the filter is stopped up or has water in the filter.
  • I wouldn't run the dyed fuel. One it will void your warrenty and a new Injector pump and Injectors aren't worth the cost saving you will have. 2nd thing if you get stopped by DOT and they find that fuel Kiss your truck goodbye
  • red777red777 Posts: 22
    All dealer mechanics are full of [non-permissible content removed]. It sounds to me that they have no clue, and are just throwing parts at it hoping it will go away. Good way to know for sure is if the parts and procedures become more and more costly. Or you get lucky and they admit they dont know what is wrong.
  • red777red777 Posts: 22
    With most diesels if there is air in the fuel line you have to bleed it or it wont start. I've actually heard of damaging the engine while cranking it over with air in the fuel line. Dont think it is a leak, just that the block heater is not working properly, possible fuel gelling - try running an additive, or it is that you have gotten the motor used to getting the starting fluid. My opinion the worst thing is to use starter fluid, its like crack,once the engine has had it, its hooked.
  • Anybody out there heard about fuel delivery problems with the lift pumps installed in the mentioned vehicles ? I did by accident. Seems the lift pumps either deteriorates with age or are failing for some un-described reason. When that happens the fuel injection pump will last for a while but eventually fails because of fuel starvation. How fast depends on the failure rate of the lift pump. The problem is that neither Cummings nor Dodge seen fit to put any warning device into the fuel supply line for the injection pump. So, the first thing you know you are coasting off to the side of the highway.

    On these vehicles the lift pump is staged. Before starting, it delivers 5 PSIG. Following starting, it delivers somewhere above 15 PSIG. The fuel injection pump maintains 14 PSIG inlet pressure with the remainder being relieved back to the fuel tank. Cummings recently revised their specs to require at least 25 oz of relief fuel to help cool the injection pump. This is not identified in the Dodge Truck manuals.

    In my case I checked my lift pump and sure enough it was at the absolute minimum delivery pressue and sometimes fell below limits. I installed a new pump resolving the problem with no know issues with the injection pump. The other thing I did was install a pressure guage in the outlet port of the fuel filter housing ( my warning system). Ebay also sells kits for warning lights but I am not into the warning lights because when the pressure switch fails you are right back to no warning system. Just thought I would pass this information on for people out there. BTW, a new injection pump is $1500+ and the lift pump is about $177. The dealer will install a retro fit in which the lift pump is moved back into the fuel tank for #600+.
  • rdomikisrdomikis Posts: 1
    Ok I have a 96 2500 with the cummins engine. If I park it for any length of time (2-3 days) nose up it will not start. I then have to push the lift pump plunger on the block to get it to start with a huge cloud. It looks like the injection looses its prime in this situation. No leaks or drips.... I have pulled the fuel tank and it is all clean. If I park it nose down this is not a problem. I'm sure something is either loosing a prime or clogging when nose up.....

    Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem A good truck with 250K on it and still strong

    thanks,Rich
  • Dear OLDTECH and other 2007 6.7Litre Dodge Ram Owners. I have this same vehicle which I waited for and took delivery about 8 months ago. My vehicle currently has about 13,500 pampered miles with no towing and although I love the truck my engine light has come on 5 times now. Tomorrow I am taking it in again and I am sick of the visits. I have heard of Dodge buying back a few of these vehicles and wonder what is required for this to happen. I have read all the paperwork I received during delivery and the main requirement is notifiing the factory by mail in writing to get the buyback procedure started. I have deceided to perpare our letter after Easter. If possible I would like to speak with any of you who have already or completed this procedure so we can compare notes and experiences. For those of you who may be interested email me at [email protected]
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    MIAMIMEGACAB,
    I AM VERY FAMILIAR WITH YOUR SITUATION. MY 2007 2500
    DIESEL 6.7 HAD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 7 TIMES IN 6000 MILES. I AM GLAD TO SAY DODGE BOUGHT MY TRUCK BACK MARCH 13, 2008. I NOW OWN A 1500 WITH A HEMI ENGINE. NO MORE BLUTEC DIESEL CRAP FOR ME. I STILL AM A BIG DODGE FAN AND WILL CONTINUE TO DRIVE THEM. NOW, WHAT YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK IN THE LEMON LAW BOOKLET THAT SHOULD BE WITH YOUR OWNERS MANUAL. THERE IS A CARD IN THE BACK OF THE BOOKLET YOU NEED TO FILL OUT AND MAIL TO DODGE TO REQUEST A BUYBACK. THEY WILL TAKE IT FROM THERE. AFTER DODGE REQUESTED MY DEALER SERVICE RECORDS AND REVIEWED THEM THEY BOUGHT MY TRUCK BACK NO QUESTIONS ASKED.. THEY GAVE ME MY DOWN PAYMENT BACK, PAID FOR ALL THE ACCESSORIES THAT I HAD INSTALLED. THEY MADE IT VERY EASY. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A LEMON LAW BOOKLET IN YOUR VEHICLE YOU CAN OBTAIN ONE FROM ANY DODGE DEALER. JUST REMEMBER, THIS IS NOT YOUR DEALERS FAULT. IT IS A DESIGN OR ENGINEERING PROBLEM FROM CUMMINS. GOOD LUCK TO YOU . I HOPE THEY CAN HELP YOU. THEY SURE DID OK BY ME.
    OLDTECH
  • gumby916gumby916 Posts: 1
    I own a 07 2500 5.9 dodge when I start it and let it idle it makes a pop sound out the exhaust just once and a little black smoke comes out. Could this be an injector?
  • Did you use an attorney? Did you have to pay a mileage offset on the buyback?
  • Hopefully you can help, Noticed some driipage under engine a few days ago took a trip about 400 miles almost got home truck stalled at light thought truck lost prime re primed changed filter bled line truck starts, runs , stalls sometimes stays running 5 min 10 min , any suggestions 04 dodge cummings diesel dually manual trans
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    TO WILLYSACE,

    I DID NOT USE AN ATTORNEY. THEY DID CHARGE ME 900.00 FOR THE 8200 MILES I HAD ON THE TRUCK. I FELT THAT WAS FAIR. THEY REFUNDED MY DOWN PAYMENT AND FOR ALL THE ACCESSORIES I INSTALLED ON THE TRUCK. I'VE BEEN DRIVING MY NEW DODGE RAM WITH THE HEMI ENGINE FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS AND SO FAR IT'S DOING GOOD. THE GAS MILEAGE IS ABOUT 16 AVERAGE AND ABOUT 18 ON THE HIGHWAY.WHICH IS CLOSE TO WHAT THE DIESEL WAS GETTING. SO FAR I'M VERY HAPPY WITH THE NEW 2008 1500 RAM WITH THE HEMI ENGINE. IF I CAN HELP FURTHER LET ME KNOW.
    OLDTECH
  • treeguy2treeguy2 Posts: 1
    Neighbor's 01 dodge runs fine till it just loses power. will idle but not pull. when running ok it pulls heavy trailer uphill no problem. was told injector pump is bad. sounds more like something telling pump to shut down on occasion. where is the fuel shutoff solenoid located. any ideas to try. sounds like many have had this problem and one guy replaced his alternator and it fixed it. any help will be appreciated.
  • Sounds like you did o.k. My mileage offset is $2,400 based on the price of the truck and mileage when problem started. Had to fight with them to reduce the offset from $2,800. They wanted to base the purchase price of the truck to include tax, registration fees, extended warranty,etc. in their formula. Customer seems to be penalized for manufacture defect by having to pay anything. According to California law, manufacture does not have to pay for any aftermarket items. Can't take the sprayed-on bedliner out. They certainly don't seem to care about retaining customers.
    Willysace
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    DODGE SHOULD NOT BE GOING BY CALIFORNIA LAW IN A BUY BACK SITUATION. THEY SHOULD BE DOING WHAT IS RIGHT. THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT THEY DID IN MY CASE. THEY SHOULD PAY FOR YOUR ACCESSORIES ESPECIALLY THE SPRAY ON BEDLINER. OF COURSE IF THE ACCESSORIES ARE DETACHABLE YOU CAN REMOVE THEM AND INSTALL THEM ON YOUR NEW TRUCK IF YOU CHOOSE TO BUY ANOTHER DODGE. I CAN'T IMAGINE OWNING ANOTHER BRAND TRUCK. GOOD LUCK AND LET ME KNOW WHAT HAPPENS
    OLDTECH
  • Oldtech thanks for your advise and I hope I have the same luck you did. I just sent the form in last Friday and have yet to receive a phone call back from Dodge. The last time I emailed you I went in again and the dealer kept my truck over night and changed the turbo unit, After getting it back and driving it for 25 miles the light came back on. After this I called the dealer service writer and he was very embarrassed. He told me he did not know what to say and that everyone there were all very embarrassed. Please tell me how long did it take from the time you sent in the form until the time they bought your vehicle back and how long did you own it. I have had mine since April of last year and we now have 14,500 miles on it. Also did the dealer make a last attempt to fix your vehicle before they made the buyback? Thanks for your reply because up until now you are the only one who I have had contact with that has experienced the same process I am going through. My vehicle cost me over $50,000 and this is allot of money to pay for headaches and to make things worse no loaners either. MIAMIMEGACAB (at the moment)
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    IT TOOK ABOUT 4 WEEKS FROM START TO FINISH ON THE BUYBACK. THEY DID NOT REQUIRE ME TO HAVE A FINAL REPAIR ATTEMPT EVEN THOUGH IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE A REQUIREMENT. MY DEALER STOOD BESIDE ME ALL THE WAY AND PLEADED MY CASE WHEN NECESSARY. TALK TO YOUR DEALER SERVICE MANAGER AND GENERAL MANAGER AND LET THEM KNOW WHAT YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO AND ASK FOR THEIR HELP. I DON'T THINK YOU WILL BE DISAPPOINTED. JUST BE PATIENT. THE WORST PART IS WAITING. GOOD LUCK AND KEEP ME POSTED.
    OLDTECH
  • Oldtech if everything goes as smooth as your telling me it looks like I am going to owe you a 12pack of your favorite beer! One last question regarding the form I filled out. When you filled yours out did you state on the form anything specific about the buyback or just the info they requested (which is what I did). To me it is kind of understood that the reason you are sending them the form is to resolve the problem with either your money back or the replacement if you decide you want one. In my case I prefer to take a small loss and buy something else to avoid any more headaches and hair loss. Thanks again for all your info on behalf of myself and others here on this blog. By the way I did a check here in the State of Florida and the State Attorney Generals office does not have any of our vehicles posted as being processed yet. Have a great week Oldtech and I will keep you posted as to my progress.
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    I DIDN'T PUT ANYTHING SPECIFIC ON THE FORM. I JUST WROTE THAT THE TRUCK HAD A CHRONIC CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. WHEN THEY CALL YOU THEY WILL ASK FOR MORE INFO. THEY WILL PROBABLY REQUEST YOUR SERVICE RECORDS FROM THE DEALER BEFORE THEY CALL YOU.
    OLDTECH
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with a Cummins diesel. I have read most of the posts about the fuel injector failures and would like an opionion. When I start out in the morning ( not always ) no matter how hard you press the gas you are only going to go 20mph. Suddenly things clear up and everything runs great. I had the lift pump replaced and it was suggested that I also replace the injector pump. Before I spend $ 2000 +++ I would like to have a pretty good idea that this is my problem. Should I look at something else. Will fuel injector cleaner help or is this even the problem.
    Thanks in advance.
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    I DON'T THINK YOU HAVE AN INJECTOR PROBLEM. MAYBE A PUMP PROBLEM. THERE ARE A FEW THINGS THAT FIT THE SYMTOM. 1. A POSSIBLE SUPPLY OR INJECTOR PUMP. 2. TURBO CHARGER MIGHT BE TRYING TO SEIZE. DOES THE EXHAUST SEEM UNUSUALLY NOISEY WHEN THE PROBLEM HAPPENS? IF SO , I WOULD CHECK THE TURBO. I HOPE THIS HELPS. LET ME KNOW.
    OLDTECH
  • Oldtech,

    Thanks for the response. To answer your question, no there is nothing unusual with smoke or sound. As a matter of fact the truck runs great once it gets over the hump. It humms down the freeway. I put the new lift pump in but I'm still getting that problem in the mornings where it doesn't want to go anywhere. All I can get is 20mph until it warms and then I'm gone, no more problems except it does seem a little slower starting when it's hot. It always started on the first turn but now it sometimes starts like a Ford diesel. I'm just afraid of getting stranded or worse tearing something else up but I don't want to gamble $2000.00 w/o a pretty good idea of what's happening.
    Thanks.
  • Oldtech I received a phone call today from the factory and they have scheduled me for another service attempt to fix the problem. The gentleman who called me told me that if they can not repair the problem this time the buyback is inevitable. I will keep you posted of the what transpires later this week.
  • oldtecholdtech Posts: 29
    NOW YOU'RE GETTING SOMEWHERE. THE CHANCE OF THEM KEEPING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OFF IS EXTREMELY SLIM. GOOD LUCK !
    OLDTECH
  • I am disappointed with my 2007 3500 4x4 6M single CAB. This is my 4th Dodge Cummins so I had high expectations. It has been 6 months and 10,000 miles and I am getting 14.6 MPG running empty. Loaded down with my Lance slide in Camper and Ranger Bassboat in tow I get 11.1 MPG. I had it in the dealer for 3 days and they did a MPG test 15.04 for them. They called Dodge and the Dodge rep said Great he should expect 10 to 12 MPG. Is this true What gives? My other Cummins would be 20++ MPG and empty I gotten 24 mpg many times. I need to know if others are experiencing bad MPG with the 6.7 BluTech? If not, I may have a bad engine!!
  • From what I read, the biggest chunk of the reality you are seeing is due to the new Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel. It doesn't have as good a lubricating property, so it does get less mileage. It's not your engine for sure, and I doubt the BlueTec too. I have an 06 3500 4x4 MegaCab with a 4 speed auto and the 5.9 CTD. I get about 12.5 around town, and about 14.5 to 15.0 at the outside running down the highway. My input is that you are seeing about the best you can hope for!....T29
  • I thank you. You gave me more info then the Dodge dealer. ULSD seems to be causing alot of problems. I Googled ULSD and hit a biofueloasis.com. You hit it right on. I guess I better find a better solution.
    I needed a bigger truck, so traded my practically new 2002 2500 4x4 5M 2-door for a new 04 3500.
    I traded off my 04 3500 4x4 auto 4-door Cummins for this 07 2 dr 6M BluTech. The reason was due to my errattic MPG. I blamed the 04s automatic. Guess it was the ULSD and not the truck. My previous Cummins were Manuals and great MPG.
    My brothers and I went squirrel hunting S ILL In August of 07 and my poor 2004 was grunting really hard (ULSD; I now suspect!). My brothers said what wrong with your diesel. They remembered 17 years ago my 1990 W250 Cummins would climb a tree in idle with a 12 foot (Winabago)slide-in on its back..
  • thanksthanks Posts: 2
    Its bad enough that diesel is over $4 a gallon then to hear that ULSD does not provide the best gas mileage. I just purchased a 2008 Dodge diesel. Is there an addative that can be added to the fuel to off set the poor gas mileage or is there anything that can be added to this '08 to improve the gas mileage? At over $4 a gallon a guy need all the help he can get. Thanks for the help. :cry:
  • I would think that the BIG RIG haulers and companys will be finding a solution quick! BUT there is a WARNING about ULSD posted at link title. For those having injector problems this may be reading worth reviewing. Marathon has a PDF file worth viewing, too link title
    I do believe that the 4.10 ratio gears keep the turbo boost up and actually increases MPG. 2 of my previous CTD has 4.10 gears and very good MPG. My 07 actually gets better MPG keeping the RPM about 2K (5th gear). My 07 CTD has 3.73.
  • All my cousins on my Daddy's side are Power Wagon drivers from way back. I had my ole beater 78 snow commamnder till 2004. So we bleed Dodge/MOPAR. but my disappointment in my 07 CTD is causing me to think gasoline-Chevy.
    You ask about ULSD additives the EPA website has many reg chemical additive makers link title and there is a "Greenburn" product out there, too! link title I AM NOT RECOMMENDING ANY OF THEM!
    THIS ULSD is affecting Dodge, Ford, and Chevy diesels so; I say. "let them do the recoomendations." We CTD spent a lot of money on our 3500 tuggers and we are all disappointed with both the very high price and poor economy. MAYBE some 4x4 author can organize a "side-by-side comparsion test" for ULSD additives that will effectively get our diesel economy BACK! Steve :mad:
  • niknarniknar Posts: 4
    My 2007 dodge turbo diesel has been in the shop 11 times for engine light problems mostly related to the turbo. This last time I was told it was my fault since I was not driving it right. I should be hauling 5,000 lbs which is not mentioned anywhere in their owner's manuel. We tried to have it lemon lawed in the beginning but chrysler refused. I have been told the 2008 are having the same problems. This is my 3rd dodge and this was supposed to be my dream truck. It is sad that they have used consumers as guinea pigs for their new turbo diesel. I am looking into trading this in for a 2500 hemi, but am getting totally screwed by the dealer who sold me the truck. They cannot offer me much for a trade in since nobody is buying these trucks due to the cost of diesel (not to mention they are a piece of crap). At this point is there any sense in trying to get a lawyer? Does anyone have any suggestions?
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