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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions



  • hpleesehpleese Posts: 10
    I did the same on my old 91 with a 3 speed trans. Took the locking torque converter out and went to 3 ring. heavy duty clutches and plates and heavy duty springs in the valve body, This was done at 280,000 miles, now I am at 356,000 and have changed the fluid twice. Only other recommendation is to us the chrysler ATF 4. Better quality oil.
  • Carnut. Thanks for the feedback. What you say makes perfect sense, and I have also heard (like another reply stated) that you must ALWAYS use only Mopar ATF unless you want to send a Chrysler tranny to a very early grave. Sacramento is on the other side of the US from me, but if you had any parts detail on the work he did, that would be great. One question though. Why would a three-ring torque converter with a high pressure valve body be better than a locking torque converter that is on my rig and engages with the "tow/haul" button being pressed? I would think that would prevent any slipping at all, at least when towing on the highway. Or were you speaking of a model year prior to that feature? Does the shop you used have a website? I could contact them there too to get the scoop on what they do to make a tranny bullet-proof.
  • hpleesehpleese Posts: 10
    If your on east coast there is a trans shop in Franklin NJ that specializes in beefing up your trans. I can't remeber the name of place.
  • map602map602 Posts: 1
    Hello Carnut17,
    Who did you find in Sacramento to do your transmission? How were their prices. My Dodge Ram 2500 V10's reverse finally went out. Been hearing a lot of noise like water running when the vehicle starts.
    Thank you,

  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Titanium, i will be in touch with answers to your good questions. I havn't forgotten about you. Thanks Carnut
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Map602 The shop which rebuilt my transmission is A.T.O. Advaced Transmission operations (916)636-3283 This shop was very well known in the 80s and 1990s and his shop was covered in numerous articles of Four Wheeling and Hot Rodding Magazine for their excellent transmission buildups. Hopefully Titanium is reading this post also, the following is a list of what they do. Raybestos clutches/bands, Felpro double lip metal clad seals/gaskets; All rotational bushings are replaced w/needle bearings, Thrust bearings are also needle bearings. High psi Valve body is modified and machined( NO psi/fluid seepage) Heavyduty overdrive/low gear sprag. 4.0 front servo lever. Heavy Duty 3 disc torque converter, low stall stator. new front pump package, deep transmission pan, billet input shaft tested for over 1,000Lbs of torque, updated 5 pinion steel planetary gears(very important!)included is manual lock up switch to lock up torque converter in any gear and a transmission temp. gauge. Inaddition, you can watch your transmission being put together and or installed if you wish. Warranty is three years or 30,000 miles. Price is $4,000.00 to 5,500.00
  • Good stuff, Carnut! Thanks for the feedback. I'll print and tuck it away for when I get there. One thing though that I think got past you or Dusty. Mine is an 06 CTD with the auto. The gear shift has a "tow/haul" setting that locks up the torque converter in everything over 1st gear when about about 40 mph. Is this a new feature that makes the tranny last longer before torque converter failure, and address the 3 ring/high pressure TC part of your configuration, or is it "just a benny" when towing on the highway? Thx.
  • My 1994 5.9 cummins did the exact same thing. They are still working on it and say it is sucking air somewhere. I replaced lift pump didn't fix. Replaced fuel lines up to the braided line that goes into preheater, still won't prime. So now they are thinking of replacing the braided line and possibly the preheater. Did you get your truck running and if so please tell me what fixed it.
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Rackon, try replacing the overflow valve on the fuel tank return line. It is located on the injector pump just where the return line exits the pump. It kind of looks like a bolt threaded into another bolt and then theirs a steel line coming out. These valves fail and allow air to be reverse suck into the pump when the truck has been sitting. Let me know Thanks Carnut17
  • Thanks for the info but they found the problem. It was a cracked fitting where the fuel line goes in on the preheater(I think there is another name for it) down by the lift pump. They replaced the preheater assembly, pumped the primer 5 times and she started right up. Runs like a top and actually has a bit more power than it did. It probably had been sucking a little air for some time. I will keep in mind the overflow valve. I hear they go bad often. Hope this helps others.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Around here the Home Depot stores seem to have somewhat better service than Loew's, but then again that's not saying much. The Home Depot closest to me always seems to have personnel at lunch or something, but another that's a little further away is okay.

    One of the reasons why I won't be trading my '03 Dakota anytime soon is because I like the interior.

    The current interior material finish of the Dak and RAM is the result of excessive influence of the now departed German contingent at Dodge. The rumor is that the new RAM will have a "significant" increase in the level of interior aesthetics. We'll see.

    But as a note: While the instrument panels of other trucks does seem in some cases to be nicer in appearance, I think the RAM interior has been unfairly maligned. It is more spartan to be sure, and I think this comes from the Daimler philosophy of concentrating on actual work trucks instead of image building trucks for those that really want to drive a car.

    Personally, while I think the new GMs have better looking interiors overall (about time, though), I don't see "cheap" when I'm behind the wheel of a RAM. What I think is unfortunate and even more of a problem on the Dak, is an overuse of that hard, dry feel plastic. The interiors look okay on a base truck that's in fleet service, but out of place on a more upscale model, such as a Laramie.

    But hopefully this will be changing on the '08s.

    By the way, a few weeks ago I had use of a new F150 and I did not think it had an interior that was greatly better in appearance than the current RAM. In fact, I thought it was ugly although the finish on the plastic seemed nicer.

    Best regards,
  • Dusty, I agree that the "excessive-hard-plastic-use" influence must have come from the Daimler half of the equation, as it started appearing in the past 2-3 years. But it is interesting to note that I am seeing it in more use with other manufacturers too, such as some of GM's entry-level to mid-level lines. It is a cost cutting measure, pure and simple.

    I hope that the next gen one-ton Rams get two things in '08 - '09 lineups - better interiors of which we speak, and a good, 6 gear auto with the Aisin or some other quality Japanese manufacturer so that the failure-prone auto transmission reputation of Dodge will finally be put to bed. It WAS earned. I hear the Aisin assembly is going the right way, but it needs to be in the mega-cab 2500/3500 configuration. And, it goes without saying, they need to keep putting indestructable Cummins diesel's in them. If they go away from that, it's goodbye Dodge as an option for me, and probably thousands more like me.
    For now, the extruded plastic dash is the only real thing I can't stand about my '06 3500. If they do all that I speak of, I will trade to a Mega Cab dually, with "the right stuff" at that time, and keep it till it dies!
    Regards, Titanium29.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    ...since this is the Cummins Diesel Questions discussion.

    To talk about the New Chrysler, head over to It's official - Cerberus buys Chrysler

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Does anyone have any good feedback and/or real world experience with a performance module/chip upgrade on the '06 5.9L CTD? There are more brands out there than you can shake a stick at, and I've got to believe some of their claims are bogus. But I have also heard tales of some folks who find them useful for MPG gains when not towing, and power gains when they are. Also, does Chrysler "run away" from any warranty obligation "blaming" such an upgrade when they find it when doing warranty engine repair?
  • bobe73bobe73 Posts: 2
  • antoniantoni Posts: 3
    U should emty this uot every time u change ur oils.It is normal if gets filled within 3500- 4000 miles( specially if u rev up ur rpms more than average)
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    To a certain extent I blame Chrysler for automatic transmission problems, but not all. Especially in the more recent years the older "RH" and "RE" series problem index or failure rates are just about in line with those from Ford and GM, and in some instances better. (There seems to be a sudden increase in 4L70 & 4L80 problems with the new shift assembly design that GM is using.)

    Unfortunately a fairly large portion of RH and RE transmissions had a problem and eventual failure due to using the incorrect ATF. Also, a good deal of Chrysler's "bad" reputation in auto transmissions is due to problems with their mini-van version (A-604, T41 series). That is the result of Mr. Iacocca's demand (for bragging rights) to release the first electronic transmission before it was adequately tested, then later attempts at cost engineering to bring the manufacturing cost down.

    The Aisin will be used in the Dodge commercial chassis models only.

    The 545RFE used behind the 4.7 and 5.7 engines is very durable. This has been a great transmission. In fact, until this year no aftermarket company made a kit for it, so few have developed a problem.

    The new 68RE in the Cummins' equiped RAMs has so far been near excellent. Too soon to tell, maybe, but Dodge reportedly put this tranny through very tough testing.

    Best regards,
  • I just replaced the driver's side motor mount and the tranny mount and the motor STILL SHAKES. AHHHHHH!!!!! I've dropped so much money to try to fix this, I'm about to DIG the thing (Drive Into Ground).

    So, the motor shakes. It shakes in park, it shakes in drive. It shakes at Idle, and is worst at about 1100RPM. This is really bad when in gear and driving, as the whole truck shakes then. It shakes on the left (drivers side), but not on the right.

    Right now I'm guessing on 2 possibilities: 1) The new mount is faulty or the bracket is not holding it right, or 2) something in the motor or torque converter is seriously out of balance. A parts shop guy suggested the TC may be out of balance??? Apparantly, this requires removing it and having weights welded on. Anyone heard of or done this?

    Please help.

    95 Dodge RAM 2500, Cummins turbo 12 valve, 47RE tranny, Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear
  • I have 96 dodge ram with a cummins diesel. I truck will start immediately but die after a few seconds. You can restart the engine by pumping the throttle well turning the engine over. The truck will run fine all day and restart unless it has been shut off for a long period of time such as overnight. I may be getting air into the system, or I am losing prime. Could this be a lift pump problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Hello Today I purchased my 4th dodge 2500 but my 1st ctd,I have a question about my oil pressure I have 42-45 lbs while on the fuel but when I am at idle it drops quickly to 20 lbs is this normal the truck has 60000 miles and I bought it from a close friend who I know takes care of it.He ran rotela 15-40 changed the oil at 5000 miles should I change it at 3000 like my gas motors, thanks
  • Looking to buy a Dodge Ram 2500 with the diesel.
    What problems should I look for. I have never had a diesel engine. However, I have driven diesel trucks before.
    I am looking to pay under 10,000 dollars and have seen a bunch on Ebay. Can someone help me with advice on buying a diesel. I am driving a Ram 1500 with 3.9 V-6 that has 238,000 miles so I am aware of some dodge problems like paint,dash and ball joints
  • Could somebody please tell me what the following codes Mean:

    P 0513
    P 0229

    I had these code show upon cycling the ignition. Thank you for your help..Jon Carroll
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on this engine?

    Torque converters are balanced during manufacturing. Have I ever heard of one losing a balance weight? Yes, but that was twenty-plus years ago and I think I've only run across it once. Yes, it can happen, but I think I'd look at other things first.

  • I have a 2002 RAM 2500 and almost every morning after I start it, it acts like there is something stuck in the tail pipe. It will not excellerate, the only way to make it go faster than 15 mph is to turn it off and back on while you are moving. Do you have a suggestion of where to start on fixing this very strange problem?? It also has a starting problem ( at 3/4 to 1/2 tank) you will need to crank for 10-15 seconds before it will start. PLEASE HELP??
  • milage = 160k

    It seems the engine shaking is not the root of my problem, which has more to do with the Throttle Position Sensor and the Tranny kickdown cable. A bad TPS sends too low a voltage to the computer, which can cause TC "chatter" when the computer sends a bad signal to the TC relay. In fact, even the factory setting on the TPS can be too low and cause the chatter. There also seems to be a balance between keeping the TPS voltage high (telling the computer the thottle is more open) and keeping the kickdown cable loose (telling the tranny the throttle is more closed).

    Anyone know how this works? I'm wondering if the vehicle speed sensor is factored into the equation by the computer as well. The computer controls both the TC relay and the overdrive relay, while the cable tells the tranny when to shift through normal gears? Does the tranny unlock the TC when it shifts?

    The TPS costs over $200, so I guess I want to know it will fix the problem before I buy a new one.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I'm about the last person to give you any advice on a diesel engined RAM. The Throttle position Sensor is about $40.00 US for a gas motor. I suspect the TPS for the Cummins' is more complicated.

    1. I'm wondering if the vehicle speed sensor is factored into the equation by the computer as well?

    The vehicle speed sensor (the one in the differential) is used to adjust internal fluid pressures in the transmission and verifying shift schedules, among other things.

    2. The computer controls both the TC relay and the overdrive relay, while the cable tells the tranny when to shift through normal gears?

    Assuming you have a 47RE or 48RE transmission, basically yes. Shift control on Mopar automatics having a throttle position cable are determined by the position of the Manual Lever position, the throttle position (pressure) cable, and governor pressure.

    3. Does the tranny unlock the TC when it shifts?

    First, on all Mopar automatics the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is controlled solely by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). On four speed "RE" series transmissions, the the TCC only engages in third and fourth gears. When operating correctly, the TCC will always disengage momentarily whenever an [X] amount of increase in engine load is sensed by the PCM, such as going up a grade or throttle pressure is sensed. This includes applying the brakes, a slight decrease in throttle pressure, or a 3-4 shift.

    Depending on mileage, torque converter shutter on Mopar automatics is typically fluid related or symptomatic of ATF temperature too high. Low fluid pressure can also cause this, as well as a worn torque converter clutch or an intermittent TCC solenoid.

    If your problem goes away when the O/D switch is on (overdrive defeatured), then you probably have a TCC problem.

    Best regards,
  • Dusty, I am familiar with the method used to get the ODBII codes on my 07 CTD 3500 RAM. But there is also a "hold in the trip OD button while turning the ignition switch to On" that triggers what appears to be a guage test. In the Gear Selection/Trip OD portion of the guage console, three numbers are rotated through 3 times. The first number has an "S" prefix. The second a "," or the like. And the third a "C". What do these numbers mean? They have not changed from delivery. Also, is there some meaning to what this guage test is supposed to tell you, other than it just "looks cool"? Are there other "easter egg" type computer peeks? Thx...Titanium.
  • My 1997 dodge ram 3500 with 147,000 will not idle while in gear with the A/C on. This happens when the engine is warm. I have also noticed that my oil pressure is very low when idling. Otherwise it runs great.
  • Rancherone, I own the exact same truck which had the same problem. I simply reached back behind the injection pump and found a small bolt (10MM open end wrench) loosened the lock nut and turn the bolt counter clockwise, your idle will increase. However, make sure your fuel filter is clean first. It seems when these Cummins finally break in they all need the idle increased slightly at about the above mileage. Don't know why but they all do it. Thanks Jeff
  • I have been reading some of the posts about Dodge trucks with the Cummins Diesel engine. We just returned from a 1300 mile trip from Knoxville to Cape Hatteras (through the Smoky Mountains) pulling an 11,000 pound trailer and for the total trip (some unladen) we averaged 13.1 mpg. We were getting 21.1 around the Knoxville area before the trip, and that may increase again - if I can keep my foot out of it. I'm really happy with my choice of trucks. :)
  • Dusty? Anybody? Anyone know what the guage test numbers mean, or what the test itself is supposed to indicate? I'd really like to know....T29
  • Just bought one of the last '07s with the 5.9. Life was good, until I picked up the latest copy of Diesel Tech. In an article talking about aftermarket add-ons, they get into EGT temperatures on the Cummins. In Vol 1 Issue 2 (the most current one)it states on page 88, and I quote, "Edge's engineers tell us that the last of the 5.9 motors had different programming from the factory, and can hit 1,400 degrees bone stock."
    I know a lot of you out there are very well conected into the Cummins & Dodge communities. So my question is, is this true? If so, is it possible to get the PCM reloaded to earlier, more protective (cooler)programming? Personally, I would not want my motor running a hotter EGT than 1250 max. Thanks in advance for your time on this.
  • 2002 diesel automatic at times does not accelerate when pushing on pedal. Just does this at times. Has had the lift pump replaced and several electronic test done. Fuel filter has been changed to.
  • guy7guy7 Posts: 9
    My new 06 CTD 3500 runs great, although I have only 4000kms. on it. In reading the manual it states that you need to grease the front joint with a lithium based grease. I went to our regular oil supply outlet and the salesperson said , Lithium is "just soap" and most quality grease contains it. I can't find it on the contents label. I use Polyproplex blue from Castrol. Does anyone know if this qualifies? Also I finally stepped into the truck a bit. Man this truck really hauls. I was really impressed with the acceleration on this beast.


  • guykguyk Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem that you described.What did you ever find was the problem with yours?
  • Any ideas on an 03' 2500 that cranks but won't start? Fuel gets to filter.
  • ssaarissaari Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 3500 with 120km (72000 miles) the promblen I`m having is transfer case with shift into 4 hi but not into 4 lo why.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,662
    Any ideas on an 03' 2500 that cranks but won't start? Fuel gets to filter.

    Did you ever figure it out? Our 06 did this on Tuesday, dealer has no idea what's wrong with it. It still won't start.
  • I have an '06 2500 5.9L Cummins. I got tired of turbo lag real fast. So, I did a lot of research and eventually bought the Edge with Attitude. If you jack it up to 5 and set the low boost fueling to 5, it will launch very well from a dead stop (huge clouds of black smoke from the tail pipe and the tires).

    I tend to drive with it in 1. I can't say if mileage improvements are from the computer or the engine breaking in.

    When the dealer call STAR for warranty repair work, they do ask if it has an after market computer or if the PCM has been flashed. They will then void the warranty on any drivetrain issues. At that point, you must fight them in court, to prove that the upgrade did not cause the problem. It can be rather expensive and you are driving a rental, until the case is resolved.
  • Try a different dealer or a Cummins shop.
  • litedlited Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 CTD that is chipped with EDGE and has been running flawlessly until this morning when i started it up it fired up right away and idled for about 15 sec. and then i drove about 20 feet and it just died with no hesitations or anything. I noticed that the fuel light was on and the tank was empty (my wife drove it last) so I put 5 gallons in and tried bleeding the air out at the fuel line test port fitting at the injector pump but cant get any fuel to come out. HOW LONG SHOULD IT TAKE? Also I can hear the transfer pump running after every crank and I put a new fuel filter in. Ther was fuel in the filter canister. I know from the factory that there is no pump in the tank but they said some people put pumps in afterwards. WHY IS THAT? IS IT BECAUSE ITS CHIPPED? I personally dont think the tank was completley dry, but cant be certain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • 2005 dodge 24 valve cummins diesel,has 60,000 miles on it,in past 3,600 miles have used 4 quarts of oil,any one have a reason why. have not found oil spots on floor,and truck works good. help loosing fait in dodge product fast. dpollock.
  • Hello Everyone,

    I own an '06 2500 with the CTD 5.9L, auto tranny. I do a moderate amount of towing in somewhat hilly terrain and was considering adding the exhaust brake for the additional braking and safety factors. I spoke with two different Dodge dealers, one quoted me $1700 installed, the other $2300. I understand the new 6.7L comes standard from the factory with the exhuast brake, does anyone have any comments / opinions about it? Would like to know if it would be worth the investment or not. Thanks.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,662
    I own an '06 2500 with the CTD 5.9L, auto tranny. I do a moderate amount of towing in somewhat hilly terrain and was considering adding the exhaust brake for the additional braking and safety factors. I spoke with two different Dodge dealers, one quoted me $1700 installed, the other $2300.

    YES, it is VERY worth the money. When I had my 06 3500 5.9L CTD/automatic I had one put on and wow, it was awesome. We don't have one on our 06 3500 5.9L CTD/6-spd, but will soon.

    We drove my truck all the way to washington and back to alaska pulling a 10k lb trailer in the winter. Without the exhaust brake I don't think we would have made it back as easily. We could shift the automatic into 2nd gear and the exhaust brake would hold the truck and trailer at 20 mph coming down a 12% grade, was really awesome!

    Even in everyday driving without a trailer it will save your brakes, I kept mine on all the time. It also aids in warming up the engine fast on cold mornings.

    I had the Jacobs Exhaust Brake, it was installed by the dealer, I believe I paid $1575 and it was worth every penny. That's probably the main thing I miss about the truck, I sold it in March, diesels aren't for me.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    diesels aren't for me.

    Come baaaaaack Jolieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee, come baaaaaack to the dark siiiiiiide ;)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,662
    Come baaaaaack Jolieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee, come baaaaaack to the dark siiiiiiide

    Ok, truth is after we bought the TWO 06 Rams in July 06 we aquired a 97 F-250 PSD for way cheap and well, THREE diesel trucks was just too many.

    Mine had a problem with injectors and an engine knock, then it got vandalized and backed into. Guess I just got fed up with the truck. I'm now driving an 07 Honda Pilot and couldn't be happier.

    I do still drive a diesel when I need to tow a trailer and its a MIGHTY fine looking red dually!!

    So I really haven't technically *left* the dark side, lol. :P
  • Thanks for the info, akangl. I'm always alittle leary to have shop work like this done when there's nothing wrong to begin with, and then create problems. The first service tech told me that they would have to put in stiffer exhuast valve springs, did they do this with yours? Also, is it just a matter of an on / off switch located somewhere on your dash?

    Thanks again.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,662
    The first service tech told me that they would have to put in stiffer exhuast valve springs, did they do this with yours? Also, is it just a matter of an on / off switch located somewhere on your dash?

    All there is to it is a vacuum valve on the exhaust leaving the engine (hard to explain, lol), some wires, a different belt, and a switch located on your automatic shifter. Its pretty simple really. I had the one made FOR the Cummins by Jacobs exhaust, VERY good exhaust brake. We are having one put on our 2006 3500 5.9L CTD/6-spd in about 3 weeks or so.
  • Hey everybody, I have a question about my truck I bought it wrecked and it wont start but the damage should not effect the engine since it was hit in the driver front wheel, there is also another issiue it has the banks power package and is missing the tunner could that be the cause?
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