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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

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Comments

  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Sounds like an exhaust restriction... could be anywhere from a corroded tailpipe to a coked turbocharger. Have an exhaust shop check from the turbo to the tailpipe... if all that is ok and in spec, you likely have a turbo problem.
  • My 06 3500 Cummins does the exact same thing with 4800 miles on it. Started when it got cold here in Northern California and we initally took it back to the dealer when we saw the voltage meter jump back and forth. They ran some tests and supposedly flashed some codes on the computer. Did the exact same thing the next day. I havent exactly found it in the manual as normal, but sounds like everyone's truck is doing the same thing and possibly not an issue. Our dealership hasnt seen the issue before but then again, it does usually get very cold here.
  • I was just wondering can I get the code from my 04 dodge the same way.By doing the on-off-on-off-on
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,651
    I was just wondering can I get the code from my 04 dodge the same way.By doing the on-off-on-off-on

    I believe so, but I'm not totally sure. You can try it.
  • pjp1pjp1 Posts: 2
    My 07 2500 (5300 mi) does the same thing...but from a previous discussion I thought it was the grid heaters in the air intake kicking on/off in the cold weather till she gets up to temp. I think there is a section in my manual.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    I can pull codes from my 05 with the key sequence, so your 04 will definitely do it.
  • Thanks kcram, ill bring it to a local exhaust shop.. Ill keep you posted a s to how i made out.. as for the vibration problem i just solved it today. i was told the [non-permissible content removed] on the rear yolk were poorley made, so i was told to change that an dsure enough the vibration is gone..all for a $90.. rear yolk.. hope this solves everyone elses vibration problem..
  • We had one with the same problem you are having. Check the rear end backlash and see if you pinion gear and ring have the same +/-. If they are a 2+ more have them order another ring and pinion kit. Also have them check the housing for warpage/ wear marks on the diff side bearing area..
  • stdbobstdbob Posts: 14
    Try having your batteries load tested. I've had batteries show the right voltage, but under load dead.
  • I have 2003 3500 4x4 Ram. I love this truck. However, I find myself looking for problems that don't exist and maybe this is one. I have owned the truck since last june. Each time I change my oil (No matter what brand of oil) I have to deal with smelling oil burn for about 2 weeks. I have tried to locate any type of leak near the manifold to no avail. I am getting frustrated with not knowing if something is wrong or if this is normal. The truck runs fine and with some of the banks upgrades it is extremely fun to drive. Any help over this would be greatly appreciated.
  • Make sure that your not smelling residual oil from replacing the oil filter. Next time just try to JUST drain and refill oil, Don't change filter and see if the problem is still there. Going 7000 on a oil filter isn't bad to skip one. Might just be residual oil you can't see
  • I work at a dealer that has been seeing this problem alot in last year. Containated fuel can be from a station that doesn't change there filter or have bad tanks. (Most of the time it is people that are using from On-site refuelers) Red fuel, farm fuel. I use fuel from one place all the time and the owner isn't afraid to show you his maintenance or fill rate per month. Also you might want to add a another fuel seperator. Like the ones made by Amsoil. Short runs with a diesel isn't good either,, Make sure they get good and HOT. (Have a 91 Diesel 12 valve with 365,000 miles that I change filter every 6 months.)
  • Yesterday, My 2001 Ram 2500 Cummins without the HO blew out 3 or 4 big clouds of white smoke and died. Cannot start. Their is fuel moving to the injector pump, and some into the injectors. A new filter was installed and no codes come up on the odometer. Any help?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Yep, I use a truck stop with high turnover and lots of use from tractor-trailers, dump trucks, and box trucks. They don't keep showing up or passing the word on the CB if it's bad fuel.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Does anyone know when the new 2007's with the 6.7 engines will be available? Dodge said January in its publications but my local dealers tell me that they have no idea. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • I heard Spring or early summer. I think they can be ordered with 6.7 now
  • 12061206 Posts: 1
    2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins fuel problem. I was driving on Interstate, engine was warm. Stopped at rest area, less than a minute idling, engine shutdown, restarted 3 times and shutdown each time after running a few seconds. Fourth time gave it more fuel and it continued to run. Came on home, about 60 miles, ran find. Left it idling while I unloaded and it shutdown again, won't restart. Any help is greatly appreciated. Could it be the fuel shutdown solenoid
  • guy7guy7 Posts: 9
    I would like to squeeze more horsepower out of my 93 CTD. Yes A 93 it is still a workhorse,and reliable. Iknow that there is a lot more in this motor then the anemic 160 hp. it advertises. The truck has 210 k on it,burns no oil andis gettin a body off resto.. I know many have said that it is not worth it, but if you do lots of the work yourself I think it is... To each his own... What are some of the mechanical modications I could focus on that would be most effective? I think the exhaust and turbo is the right place to start,but I need a bit more information from people that have actually done similiar work.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The 12-valve mechanical Cummins is the easiest to turn up the wick of all the versions Dodge has used. Even Cummins offered a kit for it. An internet search should tun up plenty of choices.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • In regards to everyone's posts and questions about the voltage meter going up and down, lights bright then dim, etc etc on cold start-up, my 06 2500 (13k miles) does it as well. I would suspect the grid-heater reason is probably accurate. Also...remember its a big motor, takes alot of amps to crank it. Just a personal theory. On a side note, my truck has been cranky as hell in the cold since I brought it home with 22 miles on it. I just assumed it was a typical Dodge...LOL...Cranky and Loud...haha. :mad: Anyway, I have a couple of questions for yall that have modified your trucks....

    1. What's the bolt pattern? (Can't find that anywhere...and I understand nothing about tires and wheels...that concept escapes me)

    2. Bully Dog vs. Edge?

    3. Is there a Dual Exhaust for the 2006 4x4 Quad/shortbox ? (rear exhaust..not stacks)

    4. Favorite Air Intake Upgrade....

    5. Anything else you can think I should know what be great.

    It's tax return season..time to buy toys. haha

    Josh
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    1 - 8 lug x 6.5 bolt circle. Be sure to check the offset though.

    2 - I keep mine stock. 325/610 is plenty for me

    3 - Depends on how much you want to spend. you can have a cat-back dual, or someone will certainly make a dural from the exhaust side of the turbo, but to stay legal, you'd need dual cats

    4 - Only thing I've done to the intake is swap the paper filter for the Fram AirHog reusable

    5 - As for that rough running on cold-day starts, that's also normal. Diesels of course run on high compression and heat, and it takes a short while to get the cylinder temps to where combustion is complete

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • 606dodge606dodge Posts: 1
    trouble code came up as fuel control module voltage low on my diablo sport programmer. truck died on highway. finally got it started and it ran for about 5 miles then died again.
    it wouldnt start again after that. same code came up again after clearing it out. is this anything to do with fuel sending unit in the tank or module on the back side of the fuel canister? please help
  • zzim10zzim10 Posts: 1
    I have a Dodge Ram 06 with diesel engine and has 6000 mile on it. I see a lots of black smoke out whenever I step on the gas, and yes soot too. On 5700 mile, I changed the engine oil. Before I changed the oil, the oil was black. Now just 300 miles on it, the oil is back to black again.
    Any idea anyone?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The black oil is "normal" (it won't stay as clean as an older Cummins - my 1996 would stay clear for thousands of miles, my 2005's oil is dark in 24 hours after an oil change), the black smoke is not normal. Black smoke is unburned fuel - you need to have that checked.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • sullyaksullyak Posts: 30
    I am going to purchase my first diesel truck this month. I have read a great deal about Ford, Chrysler and Chevy's diesels. I have narrowed it down to the 2007 chevy with the Duramax or the new 2007 6.7 liter Cummins(supposedly out this March). My question is regarding fuel mileage. It appears from this post and others that the cummins has the reputation of providing significantly better mileage. Would you agree with this? It is especially important for me because in addition to towing, I will be putting several thousand miles/yr of unloaded highway driving. Any opinions on unloaded highway fuel mileage between the Duramax and Cummins would be greatly appreciated as well as general opinions regarding durability and features preferences between these two.

    Thank you.
  • guy7guy7 Posts: 9
    I changed the oil on my new 06 with only 400 miles on it and it was black, I also changed the oil on my 93 with 3500 miles and it appeared to to be much cleaner than the previous, made me wonder a bit as well.
  • this is caused by the intake heater cycling on and off until the truck warms up.
  • flyingaflyinga Posts: 2
    Hello Everyone. I am new to this forum.
    I have a 2006 3500 Diesel. All of a sudden, will not crank. Almost like something in the electronics has the ignition blocked or neutral safety switch or something. Everything works and batteries are up. Turn the key, no click, no crank or anything. Anyone ever have this problem or any suggestions?
    Thanks in advance.
  • flyingaflyinga Posts: 2
  • hours2xhours2x Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 dodge cummings diesel that when going into drive or overdrive or up hill and appling power it shutters just for a second but mash throttle on down it smooths out.Any suggestions? Also when Engine/trans is cold and you pull it into gear it will sometimes not move but rev engine up and it slams into gear and will pull and it will do this if you stop,change from forward to reverse and visa versa for the 1st 3 to 5 min. of operation depending on the outside temp. Warmer weather it does better with hessitation and shuttering.I have changed fluid and filter many,many times over 5000 mile stretch .I have tried recommended ATF and all the way to Allison Trans Synthetic at $48 a gallon Which does help it some.($144+tax in just fluid per change):cry: Please Help
  • feltfelt Posts: 105
    Hello All. I am new to this forum, and to diesel engines. I recently purchased a 2006, 2500 Dodge with the Cummins engine. With low-sulphur fuel now being supplied, are any additives required to run the fuel in 2006 engine?

    Thanks in advance.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Absolutely none. My 05 Cummins runs just fine on it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • tiger094tiger094 Posts: 2
    The 5.9 cummins has a 100 k factory warranty. Any work they did to your Ram that did not repair the problem you should not pay. I would go to another authorized repair center. Dont drive the vehicle, your problem may suddenly go catasrtophic. I.E. dropping a valve. Hope this helps
  • Hey Ya'll. I just found this forum and I'm wanting to meet up with some diesl folks in my area. I'm from Hernando, MS. I have a 2004 3500 quad 4x4 Dodge with the 5.9. I added a bullydog programmer, banks monster exaust, and a Canadian transmission a friend got me. I run her some at Memphis Mptorsports Park. Averahe in low 15's. No feet on it yet. I also pull a travel trailer with it. If there is a local club or group I'd like to hear about it. Thanks, and remember if it ain;t blowin black its just another ride
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    Hello Freebird, You couldnt have chosen a better ride. My Ram D350 Cummins has 328,000 miles on it. I have 370 marine injectors, BorgWarner Turbo, 4"exhaust and a #8 Fuel plate. Their fun to drive especially when you bomb the motor. It's such a durable engine their still reliable when you hop em up. Im getting about 350 horse out of mine. Love to smoke those gas engine trucks, literally leaven em in a black cloud; feels great especially after they have been tailgating.
  • Hey Carnut17, went tothe track thurs night and ran a 14.623, my fastest so far by 2 tenths.Havn't been there in awhile. Huge crowd so I was inly able to make 1 run, but it was a good one. My light was bad .101, but I smoked a Mustang. Thanks for the reply. Maybe we'll hook up on the road someday.
  • Don't have the money for 2 sets so here goes. I like to run at our local track, but I also pull a 29 ft travel trailer. Anybody got a suggestion for a compromise tire for stock rims on a 3500.
  • manlawnmanlawn Posts: 5
    I have a 96 Ram 2500 auto and when driving normally but most of time I will have a trailer behind, the rpm go up and down often. I don't know if something is wrong or not. If anyone has a suggestion or fix for this problem, please let me know, this is driving me crazy. Email [email protected] asap.
    Thanks
  • james59james59 Posts: 4
    I have 95 3500 deisel that does same thing. torgue converter is disconnecting and connecting randomly but I don't know why. I have rebuilt transmission and replaced torque 2 times and it still does it. Have been told it isn't the transmission but something electrical but no one seems to be able to find exactly what.Sorry I don't have a positive answer to your question but maybe someone will respond that does. Jim Lewis in Georgia
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Jim,

    On your vintage RAM the electrical connectors at the transmission had a propensity to corrode if the connector housing wasn't sealing correctly. That's a very common problem and could cause you to have intermittent Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) engagement.

    Your symptom is also a sign that the correct ATF wasn't used or has been contaminated. Chrysler/Dodge automatics are extremely sensitive to the ATF type and quality. Dexron-Mercon should never be used, not even a drop! You should have at least ATF+3, and ATF+4 would even be better.

    Another problem I see occasionally is the Transmission Control Module (TCM) looses something in the memory and has to be re-flashed. In fact, I have a good friend that just had this occurrence on a 2000 RAM.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    When it starts to surge, step down lightly on the brake pedal. Only enough to turn the brake light on, but not enough to engage the brakes.
    Does the surging stop? If so, then you have a TCC solenoid problem and there was a Programming reflash for that problem. Which may or many not solve the problem.

    If the surge still continues, then you have a deeper problem than the TCC solenoid or possibly a Vehicle speed sensor problem.
    Have you had the vehicle scanned to see if there were any trouble codes?
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    To MANLAWN and JAMES59 replace your throttle position sensor and your troubles will disappear. The part is about $200.00 but i am 99% sure this is the problem. The TPS is located on the left side of the engine in front of the injection pump. It is a black piece of plastic w/ three wires going into it located on a pivot point at the end of the throttle cable. Fairly easy to replace, Thanks Carnut17
  • ctb06ctb06 Posts: 2
    Maybe it's some sort of reminder to "check engine". I mean as far as the fluids are concerned.
  • james59james59 Posts: 4
    The throttle position sensor was the culprit. Fortunately I only had to clean the connection with carb cleaner to remove grit and oil and it hasn't missed a lick for past 1200 miles. Thanks for the info.
  • New member - Yuma, Arizona area.

    I have owned a '96 Dodge 2500 Deisel 2WD for several years; aside from seeming to be a little hard on brakes, its been fairly trouble-free. I've been changing the oil every 5,000 miles or so and have been replacing the fuel filter every 3rd oil change. In December '06 I suddenly started having problems starting. Engine would crank over OK, but it acted like it wasn't getting fuel; I'd have to pop the hood and pump the primer several times; then it would start. This was occuring 3-4 times a week. I took it in to a diesel shop; picked it up later that day after paying $732 for Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Kit(with labor). Mechanic showed me my old one and I saw the rubber boot was fairly well worn and the internal shaft was broken. Around the first part of March I started having the same problem. Doesn't seem to make a difference whether engine is hot or cold. I haven't experienced any problems with acceleration or performance even while pulling a load.

    I don't have a workshop or enclosed garage for a comfortable work area and don't have much more than the basic tools. Aside from replacing a starter and doing the brake pads and shoes, I'm not equiped to take on any real challenging repairs. I have the HAYNES manual to refer to and have read through the Troubleshooting section. I'm the typical 60 yr old home week-end mechanic, but only when I have to be.

    I've never kept track of mileage, but haven't noticed any drastic changes; There have been no indications of any fuel leaks. One difficulty I did have while replacing the fuel filter: I replaced the little O-ring on the water-in-fuel sensor, but really became frustrated trying to get the old thick, flat O-ring seal on the filter housing to come off. So it wasn't replaced.

    My hope is that some member has maybe experienced this same problem and has a simple and inexpensive solution for me; or some ideas on what I should be checking for. thanks, Michael Fisher
  • I guess I should have spent time exploring this site before posting my message; I've read through several posts and areas and see I'm not alone with this 'starting' problem. Sounds like I need to have my batteries checked and look into my fuel pump maybe. Thanks, Michael
  • shadowmicashadowmica VermontPosts: 16
    Normal.

    It is the heaters for the intake cycling. The electrical system can keep up with the voltage draw.

    My 07 does this from new but I have two batteries and bigger alternator
  • mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Posts: 365
    I just got rid of my 300C and am now into an 07 Ram 2500 Laramie with all options. I picked it up as a demo and it had 19,800 Kms. on it. I made sure that a full service was done on it, but I do have a question. I checked the oil when I got home and it is still very black. I do know that there is a new oil filter. Is this normal? I have never had a diesel before but so far after a week, I love it and fuel costs are way lower than gas, and I just heard that gas prices have jumped again for the second time this week in my area of Canada.

    The only sad thing is that I put a crease in my right door yesterday while backing out of my garage(I must learn to drive)so I went to my local dent guy who I have used in the past and he says that he can remove the dent but the crease will be visible. I hate black vehicles but the price was right!!!!!
  • russ18russ18 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 2500 dodge diesel. the throttle will loose control frequintly. You start it up idle down the drive to the hiway when you put the trottle down it may or may not accelerate. Also when traveling at any given speed and you add more throttle it wont accelerate iot will maintain the same speed. This happens at any time. We replaced the primary fuel pump because the machanic thought it was the problem. Got any ideas?
    Russ
  • hooligan3hooligan3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel it's been in the shop twice they changed the MAP sensor the first time with no change.The second time they said nothing was wrong!The problem is at about 1500-2000 RPM the engine surges like it wants to die.It had the Edge Juice on it and it kept giving me injector problem codes so I pulled it out now there are no codes but it surges every time I come to a stoplight or at 15-2000 RPM.When I get into the throttle it seems to clear up.I have a buddy that said it may be the crank shaft or cam shaft sensor?It has Air Raid cold air intake,6" magnaflow exhaust,40" tires with 20" wheels,air bag suspension,14" lift fit,dual Fox shocks all around,dual stabilizer arm, I have ordered the Bully Dog Triple Dog with outlook monitor,CFM intake,BD lift pump,I am considering a set of Dynamite injectors 90hp.With all this time and money invested and it runs like crap I'm going nuts HELP!!!
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