Dodge Ram Gasoline Engine Questions

dakota6479

I have a 1998 Ram with the 360. Last week the check engine light came on and the code says misfire on cylinder 5. Pulled the plugs and they all are fine. Plug wires are new. Any ideas what may be the problem?

traceyj

Sorry cant help but some one may be able to help me I have a 2006 5.7 hemi had a gas convertion only got 9000 miles on clock and has poss burnt cyl 7 main dealer saying if it because of gas wont warrant it gas company wont warrant it help has any one had any problems main dealer said it is common when had gas convertion

larebare

I am wondering about the mileage I could expect to get on this Truck that I am thinking about buying. Is the V10 a real gas hog?

majorpain421

Is the 360 blocks the same and if so can u put a 70's block in a 90's and what would you have to do so it would still pass an ins.

traceyj

Turns out it is the ECU at fault and the dealer has one on order thank goodness

tizme

Lare,
I have a 99 V10 and on a good day get 10 - 12 mpg. These BIG BLOCK motors do drink a lot of gas. I got ours to pull our 10,000 lb travel trailer with and it doesn't even cough going uphill. Even though it drinks a ton of gas, I love my V10! I just had to have my motor replaced because the person who had it before me didn't do oil changes on a regular basis and sludge blew up the top end .

scrappydog1

Hey iust to keep you guys posted I took my truck to the mec. and my rocker arm was good. He thinks its my oil pump getting ready to go. Going to put in a new oil pump today I'll keep you posted

larznach

I have a 2004 Ram 1500 quad cab hemi. The check engine light came on and was running rough. The dealer told me I needed my sparkplugs replaced. This did not fix the problem. They eventually found rust in fuel injectors and fuel rail. No rust was found in gas tank. Has anyone heard of this before. I am getting no help (warranty wise) paying for this because everyone tells me it was a contamination issue. Any information is greatly appreciated.

minardi

Had similar problem with '02 Durango 5.9. Fuel rail had rusted on the inside due to water in gas. Some rust particles clogged one of the injectors and caused rough running and "check engine" light to come on. Could also have been some rust in fuel line(metal). Won't find any rust in your plastic gas tank. The new "E-10" gas that contains 10% ethanol is notorious for absorbing and holding any water that might be in the fuel. It will burn OK but can cause corrosion along the way. Hope this helps.

minardi

Could be a clogged injector. It would run very rough if that were the case. Re-check the plug wire connections at both ends.

swanney

I have a 03 Quadcab 1500 4.7, sometimes it will start when you hit the key, others time it will turn quite a few times and as you let up on the key it will start. The dearler said to wait until it won't start and get it fixed.

dustyk

Switch the ASD and Fuel Pump Relays around and see if that makes a difference.

Regards,
Dusty

swanney

Thanks I will try that tomorrow, will let you know

Berry_zik

My 1999 2500 stalls when shifted into reverse when engine is warmed up, and twice has stalled in drive when stopping from highway speed. Any Suggestions?
Thanks, Berry :confuse:

angel1976

hi just wanted to see if there are any one else out there with the same prob.
k i have a 04 1500 ram and it just stoped working the other day had it to to a lokel shop and they said my pistons are shot need new moter my truck has only 104 k on it i go and get the oil changed regularly i have not called dodge yet would like to get some more info first so if any one has had there truck just die please let me no what happend to you ty

dustyk

It would be nice to know which engine you have.

The 3.7 and 4.7 motors are almost invincible. I have yet to even hear of one that developed a major problem requiring serious engine repair or replacement that wasn't caused by operator abuse or neglect. I actually have only heard of one failure anyways.

I am aware of one 5.7 Hemi that had developed a knock which later was attributed to badly worn main bearings. However, there was suspicion that this engine had been run out of oil intentionally (this was a warrantee situation). I know of one other that had the top end apart for a valve problem.

However, bad Dodge truck engines are extremely rare. I know of none that have had a failure like yours. Its hard to judge what is meant by "bad pistons," Did this engine seize? If it did, was the engine overheated? If you lost the oil pump then that could explain "bad pistons." We need more detail on how this engine failed.

Regards,
Dusty

angel1976

angel1976

hi dusty
ok it is a 5.7 and it is fully maintained all the time i take it in all the time and as for not hearing of any other i heard about 300 so far but they where all oil sludge in the engine resulting in engine failure my oil is clean so its not that so i did not miss use my turk i never drove over the seed limit. as far as i can tell you is my husband was driving so i dont no all the deatals on that all i no is 3 of the pistons are seized thats what the guy at the shop i had it towed to said now you have to under stand i love that truck it was the first thing i ever bought for my self and i am devastated about ben crying non stop i never let my husband drive it and i had to let him he was taking me to the hospatil so as you can so i dont remember much about gauges i just am hopeing it is still covered under warenty was hopeing to hear some happy stories

glenlo

I have had this Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 since july 2002. I have been fortunate so far with no major issues . My warranty is 7/100 with a wrap . It has fixed power windows,cooler radiator, even had the roof repainted from Chrysler for free! Seems black gets a bit hot and the paint is know to have popped.... although they dont advertise it. Im the original owner and have used mobil 1 Since 12 k . Recently I have used high milage mobil 1 w mobil 1 oil filter. I have changed tran fluid at 60/ twice to make sure old fluid was out. Now at 90 Im getting ready to replace fluids , differential hoses belts. But really is there things I should really be sure of maintaining first? I dont tow ... or go off road.
Also resently the oil pressure gage dips and says check gages. It has used about a quart every 4000 miles and I believe that is the cause. Ok anyone got any suggestions?

glenlo

xscooba

I have a 1996 Dodge Ram with a 5.2 L ( 318 ) and I am receiving trouble code 1391 ( intermittent loss of camshaft or crankshaft sensor ). The distributor and camshaft were replaced not too long ago. Where is the crankshaft sensor located exactly?

corkscrew

Crankshaft sensor is located on the passenger side of the bellhousing. It "reads" notches cut on the flywheel/driveplate.
Regards,
Corkscrew

swanney

I have an 03 Dodge Ram, I will be towing it with my motorhome, does anyone know if there is a fuse that I can pull so that when I turn the key one click to unlock the steering wheel the dashs light won't come on. I don't want to use a battery disconnect. Thanks Swanney

swanney

Changed the fuel pump, took care of the problem. Swannwy

Arazu

Arazu

How do the newer, smaller engines compare to larger, but older engines? I can't seem to find any good specs.

cosnal1970

i have a 1994 ram 1500 4x4 with 5.9 L engine with approx. 127000 miles. last couple of months during roads trips driving approx. 73 mph my truck has lost power-accerlation 3 times no luck with throttle increase. pull off to side of road to get out of traffic truck idles fine. last time i shut it off and waited a few minutes to see what would happen. had to shut off again for a short time and then restarted. slowly drove off and seemed to run fine. got back up to speed and made it to my destiny ok. then drove over to auto repair place and it ran fine. already had O2 sensor and catalytic converter replaced. someone suggested it could be the throttle position sensor. does this make sense? no luck with auto repair place as of yet

dodgeowner2

i have a 1996 5.2 (318)4x4 truck. when driving and i lightly press the gas pedal to give it power it starts to jerk but when fully pressed it runs fine.when idiling it runs fine.just starts jerking when i begin to press gas pedal.. any answers to fix this problem????????? :confuse:

jsaam

i have a 99 gas pot that sat over the weekend in -30c canadian weather,monday morning it would not start,i put in gas line antifreeze,i tried liquid fire,i have been trying for about 2hrs nothing. it turns over and over until the battery dies.it was plugged in all weekend and still is,this is the first time. earlier this year it sat all weekend without being plugged in, in-40c started no problem? i use my truck for work putting on about 1200km a week. any help would be appreciated.

04yellowhemi

At 30,000 miles I changed my spark plugs to bosch plat +2. From that time the truck just does'nt seem the same Horse power and mpg got worse. I've read to just use the original champion plugs Does anyone have any imput on which plugs are best?

moparblue2

You have to use factor plugs. Been there & done that. It will set a check engine light for a miss fire. The Bosch plugs are hotter then original. The computer is retarding the timeing so the engine will not ping or nock. That means less power & more gas!

04yellowhemi

Thank you That's what I'll do

xtech78

95 dodge ram 1500 pickup's don't have a fuel filter except the sock in the gas tank...

offroad01

I have an 01 Dodge 4x4 with 5.2ltr Truck worked fine one day stopped for lunch came out ran like I was running out of gas. Gas gauge said 1/4 tank but filled it up anyway. Still acted up but not as bad. Got it home thought it was not getting fire so changed the plugs and changed the oil and filter and changed the air filter. Still no luck so then changed the fuel pump because go figure dodge put the filter in the tank but this did not work. Changed the igntion coil and the crank shaft sensor still no luck. So bad now it had to be towed to a shop and I am not getting any check lights and the dio cant get any fails either. Mechanic has had truck for 2weeks and cant figure it out

unclejosha

My 75000 mi 4.7 has very poor acceleration from idle to 2500 and it also surges under acceleration but not when maintaining speed, any clues?

mll1

I have a 2001 dodge ram 1500 quad 4x4 with the 5.9L engine. On occasion under full speed it would flutter and lose power for a few seconds, appear to want to stall, all of the gages dip, and then regain normal operation. This happened a few times over the last year. The last time this happened it completely lost power and stalled, no power steering, no power brakes, but electronics such as wipers and radio continued to function. After coming to a stop, the truck immediately started right back up with no problems. The MIL light has been on. I checked it at autozone and the code was P1491 which was for a blown fuse for the AC condensor fan. No other fault codes appeared. Please help. Anybody else have this problem? What should I check?

unclejosha

cwiseguy

I posted to the transmission problem forum and did not see any activity...I hope I can post it here too...

Thanks, ,

I baby this truck. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4, 360 motor, 5.9 with 46RE, I think. Automatic Tranny. I have 180,000 miles on the truck and motor. I replaced the tranny with a Jasper about 90,000 miles ago.

About 30,000 miles ago I had the tranny flushed by a machine. The tranny started shifting funny a few weeks ago. I would give it the gas and it would shift up normally then sometimes it would not shift up, without letting off the gas a bit. I could sometimes take it easy and it would shift fine through the gears. Sometimes I could stand on it, and it would shift fine.

The other day it started as normal and will not shift up past 1st gear. I can go in reverse too without a problem. I can put the shifter into 1 and 2 and D and the truck will go but not past 1st gear.

I get NO codes but "P doNe."

"My first tranny went out with NO notice or acting funny at all. It just quit and the engine kept winding."

For the last year or so...If my truck would sit for a day or so, when I went to start it up, the transmission would have to build up pressure for a few seconds before it would finally grab hold and go after putting it in drive...I was told this was normal and not harmful.

I was told to change the filter and fluid, along with the governor pressure solenoid and sensor…

Does this sound right? When I get the pan off can I do anything else that needs to be done like band adjustment, and to what spec? Taking into consideration the pan is not filled with debris. I guess a CLEAN pan is a GOOD pan. Can I tell if the right fluid has been used in it?

Thanks for any help you can give…

cwiseguy

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 360 with 46RE tranny. I am having tranny problems...

Doing the On-Off-On-Off-On test I get no codes other than "P doNe."

Can I use another type of scanner and get codes...OR is this way of getting codes the same?

Thanks, Cwiseguy

corkscrew

Done means that the computer is finished displaying codes. Auto Zone or Pep Boys will check for codes for free. I would have one of them check for codes just in case. My 2002 used to display in caps (DONE) so maybe there is a problem.
Regards,
Corkscrew

cwiseguy

Well here is an update...

I had the Governor solenoid and Governor sensor replaced...I had the fluid and filter changed and the bands adjusted...

It did not fix anything...$400 and the same problem...

The tranny guy said I had the normal stuff in the pan for 80,000 miles and a little more than the average...

Does anyone have any other ideas...

My next one will be a manual tranny...

Thanks, Cwise

highvolts57

Sounds like alot os slippin going on around here. I've got a 01 2500 V-10, had shifting problems at 210,000 miles, took it down, found linkage outa adjustment and one bad sensor. Cost me $135.00. I got 236,000 on it now. Working fine.

samsram

I have a 05 Ram 1500, with the 5.7, first time i had a problem, the engine light would flicker and the idle was very erratic, it would do it for about 5-10 minutes then quit, I then changed the plugs and wires and seemed to cure the problem, I drove it for about 3 days then it started acting up with a vengence bucking and horrible idle, dropping to 300- 400 rpm then back to normal and no power at all, unless i floored it. It now give me the codes 300, miss fire detected and code 175 fuel system rich right bank #2, I am thinking o2 sensors, but i never had a o2 sensor do that, dont want to be changing 100.00 sensors unless i have to. Any Ideas?

condor74

replace the battery and make sure your connections are good. A low battery will cause your truck to stall when cold.

dokkie

hi i have a 2001 1500 1/2 ton 4x4 with a 318. when truck is sitting idling everything is great but SOMETIMES when u drive it and give it to much throttle the rpms climb sometimes red lining before shifting. when going up small hills it does not shift properly. i have changed water pump, oil, air filter, transmission filter and oil, and have added injector cleaner but to no avail. oh and transmission oil was dirt but there was no a abundance of fillings and no pieces in filter or oil.i had plugs and wires changed last fall. tommorrow i check plugs to make sure they are wearing properly. does anyone else have any ideas the next step is to change fuel pump but they are 400.00 for a jobber brand so i would like to try everyhting else possible before that. Thnaks in adavance for any help!! :confuse:

robert477

91 dodge 250 new pump,ecm, filter, ect.....starts and will run great for a while...then just stops... sometimes it will re-start... sometimes not. this one has me fooled new tune up and filter also????? HELP!!!

dokkie

:mad: hi i have a 2001 1500 1/2 ton 4x4 with a 318. when truck is sitting idling everything is great but SOMETIMES when u drive it and give it to much throttle the rpms climb sometimes red lining before shifting. when going up small hills it does not shift properly. i have changed water pump, oil, air filter, transmission filter and oil, and have added injector cleaner but to no avail. oh and transmission oil was dirt but there was no a abundance of fillings and no pieces in filter or oil.i had plugs and wires changed last fall. tommorrow i check plugs to make sure they are wearing properly. does anyone else have any ideas the next step is to change fuel pump but they are 400.00 for a jobber brand so i would like to try everyhting else possible before that. Thnaks in adavance for any help!!

willyou

My Ram has 180,000 miles, I did a tune-up last week. When I drive between 25--40 mph,it starts to sound noise, like "Zee......." from the front as I give gas pedal. When the mph over 50, the sound gone. OR If I drive without AC, there is no problem at all. It had happened twice of the engine stop on the road. But I can restart the engine. Is my truck's engine getting old or weak? It cannot support the AC. Please advise. Thank you so much.

mkehayias

Drove the truck home from work yesterday, all was good. Got in it to run an errand, engine ran erratically for 30 seconds and died. It would kick over and die as soon as the starter released. Next morning, would not even do that. Good spark at #1 and #8 spark plugs. Popped the cover off the injector rack bleeder/test port, opened the valve, no fuel comes out. Got volts at the connector to the fuel pump and good ground (on a multimeter). Easy to jump on the fuel pump being bad, BUT...

I checked the relays (the old fashioned way: turn the ignition to "run", pull the relay out and push back in, feel it click in your fingers). The ASD relay makes and breaks fine (feel it and hear it engage/disengage). The fuel system relay does not. Take the fuel system relay and plug it in to the ASD relay slot, it worked. I put the relay from the ASD slot into the fuel system relay slot, did not work.

Here is what I know:

ASD Relay works.
Good Spark to the plugs.
Volts at the fuel pump connector.
Fuel pump fuse is good.
No fuel pressure at the injector rack bleed/test valve.
The fuel system relay does not make with the key in the "run" position.

Before I blow 250 on a fuel pump module and spend the day dropping the gas tank, I want to make sure the fuel system relay is working properly. I do not have schematics for the system. If anyone knows how the control voltage gets to the fuel system relay (even if the answer is the truck has to be running for it to come on) I would appreciate it.

grodrigue

I have a 03, 4.7, four door, ram. 9/04/09 at 125 /k miles radiator busted. Just six (6) months prior had system flushed out and refilled. When radiator busted it saturated the engine compartment. ( did not run engine hot). On 9/05 the next morning installed new radiator, put all fresh new anti freeze the recommended type. Started engine and ran smooth for about 2 hrs. Washed under hood to get excess splashed antifreeze (when radiator busted). Now runs rough on idle and going down the raod. any suggestions.
Thanks
Gus-truck