Chevy SILVERADO (2001)



  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89

    I have a 2001 LT, 5.3L 2WD Ext Cab SB and trailer package, so sounds very similar to yours. It has Michelin LTX M/S in the same size as yours.

    The door post sticker shows 30 front, 35 rear, just like yours. Handles really nice with that inflation, and the road ride is excellent.

  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Ryan, Peter and Hans, I appreciate your responses. Hans, sounds like we have the exact same package. A couple strikes against me already as I've used the cruise a couple of times and have also my wife had it up to 62 tonight. What is it with not keeping it at a constant speed for the first 500 miles??? Also, I didn't want to get the heavy duty suspension package on mine as I thought I would end up with a stiffer ride, but I am surprised how smooth it rides, and my wife has already commented on how tight the steering feels compared to the '97 Silverado Ext. cab that I just traded in. Lastly, this is probably a stupid question, but I've always been told that there is no such thing as a stupid question....what is the purpose of locking differential? Is that similar to the old Posi-traction? Thanks once again.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    If your rear wheels are spinning it gives one of the wheels traction so there is less wheel slippage. Its hard to explain.

    Did you get it with your truck???

    I have it and its nice.

    NO CRUISE!!!

  • ndared1ndared1 Member Posts: 21
    Well folks I got a 2500LS HD 4x4 extd LB truck and love it. The 8.1L with auto 5 allison does like gas, however but I knew that going in. With the 4.1 rear ax I get 10mpg first 500 miles around Phoenix.
    Looking for bed cover can't decide between hard glass or roller type. I have read the good and bad with both and never would install a rag top.
    the bed rug is the greatest.
    For the record no problems yet with anything on this vehicle and I like it better than my last two Hummers I would never go back to those things.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    A buddy of mine had a hard fiberglass bed cover. He hated it! Every time he had something large to carry, he had to remove it completely.

    He just got a new SD250 and a rolling bed cover, so he can carry anything, anytime and still have a locking cover for the other 98% of the time.

    Mike L
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    Locking rear is similar (but not the same) as older "positrac".

    In positrac, the power goes to the "non-spinning" wheel.

    In locking rear, *both* wheels are locked together -- better by far, especially when married to "traction assist" in snow/ice. I have both, and am amazed how effective they are. Not as good as 4WD, but $3,000 less in price and no ugly stickers plastered all over the sides of my black beauty!

  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    If you're having problems with your Chevy Silverado, or have feedback for those with problems, please visit our new Chevy Silverado Problems topic. Thanks for your participation. ;-)

    Pocahontas, Host

    Thanks for your participation. ;-)

    Pocahontas, Host
  • usampusamp Member Posts: 2
    I'm researching my next truck which will most likely be the Silverado Z71 Ext Cab w/5.3 I use it to tow a 3,500 bass boat on weekly trips - some long, some short. I'd like to find out how the two different gear ratio's compare in torque, mileage, performance, etc.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Hey Ryan (or anyone), can you give me the scoop on the dash rattle? I printed out the info on dash removal, but now I need the fix. This is one of two problems I've had with my 2001 Sierra 1500. The other was a thunking sound when I applied moderate brake pedal pressure. I told the service dept that it was either the RR rotor or the caliper. First they sanded the rotor a little saying there was rust. I was skeptical but took it anyway. Sure enough, the problem resurfaced later that day. The next morning I took the service manager on a quick test ride and let him handle it. This time they resurfaced the RR rotor and everything works great now. But I still want to fix the rattle and I'd rather do it myself so it's done right the first time. Thanks.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I wouldn't spend too much time trying to analyze this one. The 3.73 is more than adequate for what you're hauling, especially with the 5.3 engine. I have no regrets with mine.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Dash rattle

    I didnt take apart the whole dash just around the top and sides by the autotrac and the glove box. I pulled it out far enough above the instrument cluster to stuff that area with a bunch of foam. WHen you pull that area out there will be a gap maybe a 1/2 thick between the top of the dash and the top of the instument cluster housing (thats the black part). In between this area i stuffed it with foam. I know this isnt very clear but where ever you hear the noise coming from just stuff some foam in there it should stop it worked for me

  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Thanks for the info. Isn't there a TSB out on the subject?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    no tsb for the dash rattle that i know of.

    I have only heard of a few that have this rattle. I told my dealership where i went for service how to fix it if they encounter it. They have had 1 other silverado in that was it

  • silvsilv Member Posts: 41
    Could someone please point out how to tell where a Silverado was assembled? I'm just curious. I heard it was part of the VIN# but I don't know which part.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Its one of the letters

    Also check when you open the door. If it was built in fort wayne indiana itll have a sticker of the state of indiana (mines red) witht he union number and other info

    Theres a site ill check on it and get back to you.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Also SILV it should say on the window sticker mine said where final completetion took place

  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    liner in their truck? I am interested in knowing if it attaches with stickie pads to the bed, and will the paint come off if you remove the pads later. Also, if you slide a heavy object (e.g. refrigerator, table saw, etc.) across the floor of the bed, with the liner come loose and bunch up? The samples I got from BedRug look nice with thick padding and carpet- I just wonder if it will stay in place.
  • silvsilv Member Posts: 41
    There was a piece of paper the glove department that stated where the final assembly took place. Mine was assembled in Canada.
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I believe it is also on the big window stickers that lists your options and MSRP. Mine was assembled in Oshawa, Ontario.
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Okay all, have had the truck a little over two weeks now. Great ride (yes Ryan, no cruise used first 500 miles and kept around 62-63 mph - forget it after that!). Heres my new problem/question, some of my coworkers noticed my truck had a slight lean on one side. Didn't notice it at home since my driveway isn't paved. Next day, took a tape measurer to work and the right side, front and rear, sits a little over an inch higher than the left. Someone at work knew someone that had a similar problem years ago and mentioned the left side could be missing a "spacer" or "shim". Took it back to the dealership last week and the service department checked it out, didn't know the exact reason why and stated it was a "body" problem, so since they don't have a body shop at this dealership, would have to contract it out to a body shop. Please let me know what y'all think. This has been a great forum and I value your opinions. Lastly, when I had about 1200 miles on the truck, was down in south Texas over the Thanksgiving holidays and opened it up on one of those long paved farm roads. Got it up to 91 mph and the rpm meter only hit 2,400 rpm's! This is going to be a great truck!
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    My '99 came with a droop on one side in the rear.

    Traced it to a front torsion bar preload mismatch. Kinda like a stool with on short leg. You are not sure which leg is short, just that the problem exists on a diagonal.

    Adjust the torsion bar bolt to get equal wheelwell height in front. The back will then even out. A little time and weight in the back will also settle the rear leaf springs.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    You can do this youself in about 5 minutes on level ground.... Just look for the front torsion bars, follow them to the rear and you will see the adjuster....

    Adjust a little, then drive over bumps, adjust some more.

    Resist the temptation to jack up the front. Truck should settle into the suspension travel about 1/3 of the total travel for optimum performane....
  • gmcsierragmcsierra Member Posts: 40
    I have a 2000 gmc 2wd with the same thing. Sits 3/4 lower on drivers rear than passenger rear with a full tank of gas. Lessens to about 1/2 inch with empty tank. It may be a difference in leaf springs in the rear or could be a difference in coil springs or torsion bars(depending). Bottom line. I haven't seen one yet while traveling down the interstate that was level. Either a little lower on drivers side or passengers side. This includes 1/2 ton 2 and 4wd and 3/4 to 2 and 4wd.

    I personally wouldn't worry about it. Friend of mine had dealer replace rear leafs on his with the opposite side now being lower. Oddly enough by the same amount. Go figure!

    Keep in mine that the truck also torques to the passenger side when pulling out. So the likelyhood that they will even out on there own is pretty good.

  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Thanks for the info, but don't know if you read my note right, you see, it sits exactly the same on front and rear, not just rear. Difference is a little over an inch difference on the complete left side, front and rear both. Again, it doesn't bother the ride, it drives great, and the alignment is also great as I can let go of the steering wheel and it drives straight. It looks a lot more prominent when sitting in a parking alot, more than an inch, but that's what it is. Again, had a friend tell me he thought it may be lacking a "spacer" or "shim". I'm going to wait a couple more weeks and mull it over, but I'd be interested in hearing more thoughts on this. If it was just the front or the rear, I'd think the same as you all, but with both the front and rear the same, it makes me wonder.
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Forgot to mention that the inch difference "is" with a full tank of gas.
  • gmcsierragmcsierra Member Posts: 40
    I'm gonna take the end links on the front and rear anti-sway bars loose this weekend to see if that has an effect on things. (I added a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar if your wondering). I was looking at the front one this evening and it is so huge that if adjusted improperly, it could cause the whole truck to sway to one side. I have seen this happen before on other vehicles so I'm gonna check into it. I'll let you know what I find. It'll be Saturday evening before I get a chance to mess with it though.

  • morepowermorepower Member Posts: 7
    I just took delivery of a 2500HD extended cab Duramax/Allison with LT trim. Looking forward to the power and torque. This is my first diesel, so any "tips" you might have will be appreciated.
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    Awesome looking truck. i thought to myself, 'this is how high ALL Z-71
    trucks should sit.' if only they would give the half tons a similar ride height instead of worrying that women would hitch up their skirts tryin to climb up, it would be pretty much perfecct.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    the lifting of the skirt is minor compared to falling in the mud or on the ground....very difficult to look ladylike......
  • jpfltawjpfltaw Member Posts: 43
    after 3000 miles my rear springs sagged causing the the ride to get choppy. This was on my 99 rado ext sb 5.3 3 door and then the same thing happened on the 2000 rado, set up the same way, ( except with 4th door and locker. But this time the 2000 is having a steering proplem that has not been fixed in 4 trips to the dealer. The truck wanders on highway and in windy conditions. Generally the steering feels super sensetive to scary on wet roads.

    The truck sits level now, not like when I first got it.
  • serrodserrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 3500 4wd crew cab that has a problem with the rear brakes locking up in high humid conditions (be rain or fog). This only happens when the vehicle has sit idle for a while. If I ride the brakes for a while they stop locking up. I have had it into the dealer multiple times and now have started arbitration. Has any one heard of this problem before???
  • sundog93sundog93 Member Posts: 3
    I haven't used this before, so if I make any grievous mistakes, I apologize in advance.

    I'm looking for information of all kinds on the 2001 1500 Ext. Cab SB and the 2500 Ext. SB Silverado. Particularly right now, does anyone know the maximum tire size that will fit without modification on the 1/2 ton with the Z71 package and on the 3/4 ton with the Firm Ride (Z85) suspension package? I'm looking to buy, but want to know how big a tire I can stuff in it without making any changes. Also, is there enough of a difference in the tire size from 245/75 to whatever will fit to make changing the axle gearing worthwhile? Thanks...
  • meetturbomeetturbo Member Posts: 5
    This "problem" you speak of is evidently a fairly common trait to any vehicle with front disk/rear drum brakes. The only difference is with a truck, you have less weight in the rear. When you consider the contact area you have with drum brakes, you should understand why they may have a tendancy lock-up when cold, especially in high humidity conditions as you describe when brakes appear to be "sticky". From what I understand this is just very minor surface rust on the drum combined with the other factors I just talked about.
  • rossdirkserossdirkse Member Posts: 1
    I was just curios if anyone has kept track of fuel milage on the 8100 engine. If so, how wasit?
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    I am awaiting delivery on a 2500HD and had the same kinds of questions. From what I've read here and by visiting a couple of tire stores I believe going to anything larger than the 245/75/r16's will require that you change wheels to something wider than the 16x6.5 that comes stock. Probably to a 16x8. As far as modifying the wheel wells, some say trimming the air dam and/or fender flares is required when you move up to a 285 others say no. The tire store guy told me that a 285 was as big as you could go.
  • dogman4x4dogman4x4 Member Posts: 16
    Check the pictures on the 2500 HD 8100/Allison topic mth1 has 285s on stock wheels.
  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    where we can discuss the 2001 Silverado, let's please this discussion in one of these other active discussions. To start, here are direct links to Chevy Silverdo continued XVIII and Chevy Silverado/Gmc Sierra Owners hangout.

    Use the Board Search to find other Chevy Silverado discussions throughout Town Hall. Thanks for your participation.



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