Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

revelated

Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Caravan Sport that will not start. The problem seems to be electrical I think, I took it to the local garage and they can't figire it out, their computer scanner can't connect to the van's computer. So they say to take it to the dealer for a scan. The problem is described like this: You put the key to start it....the clock work's everything seems to work, but the speedmeter is blank and the PRND is blank and you try to start the van and there's nothing....you can hear the fuel pump though....if you jiggle the key sometimes the speedometer and PRND will show up but you turn the key and still nothing! So there the van sits....nothing.....any suggestions before we get into BIG money trying to find this problem.....any help would be great!

Thanks alot

thowell

My mothers Caravan is having the same problems! The car will be sitting shut off out side and when someone walks up the windshield wipers will be on and it runs the battery down. What we found out on the first trip to the shop was the ignition switch was allowing the key to turn off and come out in the auxilary postion so the car was still actually on. So they put a new switch in and they fixed the switch so that it would not allow it to let the key out in the auxilary position. That worked for about 4 months. However, it has just started doing it again and the car again will not start. Once you jump the car, which just takes hooking the jumper cables up for one minute the car starts right off. They had a computer hooked up to it for 36 hours trying to catch the switch malfunctioning but could not catch it. When I was at a restaurant one day last week, I saw another Dodge Caravan doing the same thing, the van was off but the wipers were running so I went in and told the guy that his wipers were on. He said that he was having a problem with that and it runs his battery down. But figuring out what is wrong is the problem. Dodge won't give you any info either!

badgerfan

I assume you have done the basic things first, like making sure your battery is OK, then making sure the battery charging system is OK?

thowell

Oh yeah. The first time it happened, we went and bought a new battery. This is my 76 year old mother driving this van back and forth to the nursing home to visit my father. Then with a new battery a week later. she goes out to start it, click-click-click, however the lights come on inside the van.

She was so paranoid that she was leaving the lights on or something else, when she got home from the nursing home, the neighbor would come over and check the car. Everything was turned off. To start the car, you don't even have to connect the jumper cables to it. just touch them to the battery posts. We take it out and run it good. The it's fine for a good couple of weeks, then it happens again. We can tie it to the wipers, because during the middle of the day, some lady walking down the street came up to the front door and told my mother that her wipers were on in the van. They were running on high!

flavijon

Hello everyone, I hope there is someone that can help me out. Here is my situation, bought the van new from the local dealer and had no problems for 5 years and 1 month. Thinking that I have a great vehicle I am excited that I no longer have to make a monthly payment. One day mid July 2006 I go to start it and it does not start, just turns over. Close to 100,000 km, I figure I should bring it in for the routine maintenance anyway I have it towed into the dealer. They tell me that the Power Control Module is no longer working and needs to be replaced ($1200 for the part + labour). Being in shock at the cost but I figured that it is covered under the bumper to bumper warranty I purchased I had no worries. No they tell me.... but they did find out that it would be covered under the federal emissions control. So I'm happy. I go ahead with the full 100,000 km maintenance. Thinking that I lucked out, one day later I get my van back and now my radio is no longer working and I my check engine light is on. Now what... I take it back to the dealer and they tell me that the radio is not working (just happened to stop) and they are not going to replace it and it is not covered under my bumper to bumper warranty. They engine light is one because a hose was broken, I can only think that it happened when they were doing the maintenance. No charge to fix/replace the hose, but nothing with the radio (out of luck). OK, I will have to get a new radio. I can live with that. Three days later the van doesn't start again, take it back in and this time they tell me that the ignition coil is gone, have it replaced. Get the van back and about 4 days later the van is not starting, just turning over. Have it towed in and again they say that the ignition coil is not working. Have it replaced. I get the call that the van is fixed and come and pick it up. I get to the dealer to pick it up, get the keys, start the van and nothing, it's just turning over. I had a mechanic have a quick look and no spark. Ignition coil that they just replaced and tested is not working again. The next day I speak with the service manager and they said that they replaced the ignition coil and found that there was a higher that normal voltage on the O2 censor wire. They also replace the O2 censor and got the vehicle running. They kept the van over night and started it the next day. Picked up the van and they assured me that the vehicle was repaired and working. This is the day that we were going on a family camping vacation. 7 hours after getting our van we got to our camping spot. 3 days later the van didn't start... towed in to local dealership and yet again the ignition coil was not working, replaced again. Got the vehicle back a day later. 3 days later we decided to leave a day early and get back home and it does not start again.... we end up staying another 2 days, now an extra day, missed work and this time we tried starting it so many times that we drained the battery. No codes for the dealer ship once we had it towed back in. They charged the battery moved the wiring harness around a bit and it started. This got me thinking that the problem must of been the wiring harness the entire time. The dealership put some non-conductive grease in the connector to the ignition coil and up until now (about 3 weeks) from the last dealer ship visit the van has been working. As of yesterday Sept 19, 2006 it is not starting again. I get the P codes 0352 and 0351 which are the ignition coils failing. The dealer can't figure this one out and I have run out of options.. Is there anyone out there that can help me or maybe has had the same problem with a resolution. Please post any ideas or thoughts. Thank you...

badgerfan

Find a different repair facility. These people obviously do not know what they are doing.

flavijon

Thanks,
But I have taken to two different dealers and they both can't figure it out. I have even talked with another mechanic that I know and I feel he will not steer me in the wrong direction and he is also unsure of the problem and how to correct it. Who better to find and fix the problem than that ones that specialize in their own vehicles. I am just hoping that someone out in cyberland may find this post that has had a very similar problem and has had it corrected.

thowell

Taking it to a different dealership doesn't help. I've even called the manufacturer and had the dealership manager call the problem center at Dodge. At least you got reading on the coil. This is what they do. The just don't start. Mom has actually taken her key out, turned it over and it will start. We're still wondering if it's not in the ignition.

ongjoy

My wife has a 1998 Grand Caravan Sport that worked fine until about 12 months ago, we started to have "Not Starting" problems. When you get in the car, either the battery seems completely dead or when you turn the ignition, it tries to start very briefly and then goes dead. I took it to Walmart service, thinking it was a dead battery that needed to be replaced. Instead one of the battery cables at the terminal (positive?) was so corroded that most of the wiring has been eaten away. You could start the car by turning or twisting the cable such that the wiring made contact with the battery. Well, the handy Walmart technician (bless him) cut the cable end off and installed a new terminal block with the existing cable (it was just barely long enough to reach the battery terminal). Everything worked fine for several months, until one day, the same thing happened. Battery seemed completely dead and the car would not start.

To make a long story shorter, we found out it was not the battery, but that we could start the car by just pushing or jiggling with the cable to put it in a slightly different position (Yes, I inspected the wiring and it still looks good, at least at the new exposed end). Usually one to three simple pushes (pushing the wire toward the battery terminal) did the trick. I suspect that part of the wiring further inside the cable may be corroded away inside and is the reason for this random action.

Last week, I got tired of this occuring randomly, perhaps once or twice a month, and called a Dodge dealer to find out how much to replace the entire cable. It turns out the battery cable is part of a larger motor wiring harness and the dealer wants $1470 just for the new part! (that is NOT a typo, add about $100 for labor). I will be looking at a used part from a parts junkyard or to selling/trading it for whatever I can get for it.

Hope this info may be helpful in your case.
Good luck.

whatever10

I have a problem in which the ignition won't engage when the engine is cold & then, after I finally get it to start, the engine sometimes won’t shut off if I turn the key back to “off” immediately afterwards.

The starting problem goes like this: I turn the key & hear a click. If I repeat the process several times (I hear one click each time), the vehicle will eventually start (within ten key turns). At first I thought this may have been a starter problem, but now I don’t think so. Also, the battery is fairly new & the terminals are clean with firm contact.

As for turning the engine off (cold engine) & occasionally not getting the motor to stop running: When the key is returned to the off position, the motor sometimes continues to run. Also during these episodes, a constant clicking sound is heard. My wife drove the van like this once & the clicking stopped after a mile or so. She was also able to then turn the engine off by returning the key to the “off” position.

Any thoughts?

upnrunnin

Did you find any solutions? My no start issue was fixed by replacing the cam sensor. Now I have a misfire issue that seems to be related to the coil connection. I'm wondering if it is nesc. to replace the entire wiring harness?

upnrunnin

Actually, it was the crankshaft position sensor that fixed the intermitent no-start problem. The cam sensor was replaced as a precaution.

jagir03

Hi, I have an engine stalling problem with my 92 plymouth voyager mini van, the engine stalls but starts back right away but I have to put my left foot on the brake and right foot on the gas pedal to keep it running at idle speed it is not gutless on higher speeds, no check engine light is on I was wondering if somebody can help me with this problem. Thanks

jpf

We had a 91 Caravan (3.0 liter engine) years ago with a similar problem. I remember a fuel system service being done that cleaned out the fuel injectors. Afterwards, it ran fine. This type of service is not very expensive. Good luck.

rostant

I have a 95' Plymouth Voyager (215K)with the 3.0 engine that is stalling/stumbling after I come to a stop, It happens only when warmed up (Runs perfect cold). No codes are present. I've replaced the following:
Throttle Body (cleaned), TPS, IAC,O2,MAP,EGR,Fuel Pump & Filter,CAT,PCM,PCV,All Vacuum Hoses, Coolant Sensor, Battery and Optical Sensor (in distributor). I've been to 3 different mechanics including a dealer who cannot find the problem. At this point I have too much $$ invested and would like to find a solution. Anyone out there that can help?? :confuse:

mfahey1

I was going to suggest that it was the coolant sensor based on the symptoms but I see that you have that covered unless there is a wiring issue between the sensor and the computer.
Often, when the stalling occurs when coming to a stop, it is the torque converter that is not unlocking when it should. Try shifting into neutral and see if the problem goes away.

rostant

Thanks for your response. Do you know of a way to test the coolant sensor? Is there just (1) coolant sensor? I've tried the neutral scenario with no luck. It would simply spit & sputter when put back in drive. Almost as if it is starving for fuel. Could the injectors be clogged? Why only when warmed up? :confuse:

mfahey1

I don't know enough of the specifics on your year and engine to give you a definitive answer. I know our library has a set of Mitchell manuals that gives you a whole diagnostic decision tree that takes you through various steps to get to an answer.

rostant

Thank you, I found a simple test procedure through the Wells
website that I'll try this weekend. Hopefully, I bought a Bad sensor.

rostant

No such luck, purchased New Coolant Sensor ($16)and problem remains. Could a failing tranny cause me to stall or hesitate when accelerating after a stop? Tranny is original (215K) and acting up with hard shifting. I'm grasping at straws. :confuse:

upnrunnin

I stumbled accross a problem with some of the electical connectors in my voyager 3.3l engine. The connectors to the cam position sensor, the crank position sensor and the coil were all shorting out. The cam sensor was causing the engine to misfire after it warmed up. It was replaced but the problem came back in a few days. I cut off the connector and hard wired it. Problem solved.
Next, the connector to the coil was shorting out. I hard wired this too, but it took some tinkering. It would be easier to get a junk yard replacement but I wasn't sure I could trust it.
I knew my crank sensor connector was also bad because the engine shut off while driving. I had this problem months before but it went away after replacing the crank sensor. Now It comes back? I hard wired this one too.
I could write pages about how long it took to find these problems. How 2 dealerships were stumped, and one top notch mechanic identified a problem with the cam sensor after two weeks of testing. Yet it wasn't the sensor at all - it was the connectors. That snap together and look for all the world like they are solid. I almost reached my limit on this one.

upnrunnin

The connector to the coil can be bad even though it snaps in and seems good. I hard wired it by crimping wire connectors to the 4 metal prongs and extending the wires. It takes some doing and I used a rubber piece from the old connector. You could find another connector at the junk yard and try it. They don't sell new connectors unless you replace the whole wiring harness ($$). See my other posting where I also hard wired my cam and crank sensors.

rostant

STALLING PROBLEM SOLVED ON 3.0
I took out the old wiring harness thinking the MAP Sensor connector was bad and found that the wiring to the Fuel Rail connector was fried. I picked up a complete 15 Point harness at a Junkyard for $20. Thank you for your advice and ending 8 months of misery!

wolv1955

Help-Help
I started to notice that when maintaining a speed of 20mph up to 50 mph, there is like a misfiring. A movement on the tach of 50-100 up then back down. A feeling of push/pull all though slight it is getting progressively worse.It is very annoying.This condition does not happen in any acceleration from 0-80 and only happens when I try to maintain a constant speed between 20-50mph. No engine lights are on and I had the dealer double check the computer today and it was clear as well.

This van was taken in to the dealer to fix the recall on the power brake resevoir/new lines.
This was done back in October and I know it did'nt do this before.

So, is there anything the mechanic's could bumped on the back side and to the right of the engine block that could produce this? Like a hose, connector.?

Plugs,wires,air cleaner ok per dealer.

List of possibilities:
fuel filter/pump
Dirty fuel injectors
dirty valves
egr valve
coil connection?
tranny solenoid sticking
exhaust pipe restriction
cam sensor
Valve spring?
This list came from the old & new forum, I only came up with the dirty fuel filter.
Where in the world do I start?
BTW Thank-you for solving the notorious power steering groaning. By reading the old forum you gave me the info to get the dealer to fix it.
Wolv

wolv1955

Help-Help
I started to notice that when maintaining a speed of 20mph up to 50 mph, there is like a misfiring. A movement on the tac of 50-100 up then back down. A feeling of push/pull all though slight it is getting progressively worse.It is very annoying.This condition does not happen in any acceleration from 0-80 and only happens when I try to maintain a constant speed between 20-50mph. No engine lights are on and I had the dealer double check the computer today and it was clear as well.

This van was taken in to the dealer to fix the recall on the power brake resevoir/new lines.
This was done back in October and I know it did'nt do this before.

So, is there anything the mechanic's could bumped on the back side and to the right of the engine block that could produce this? Like a hose, connector.?

Plugs,wires,air cleaner ok per dealer.

List of possibilities:
fuel filter/pump
Dirty fuel injectors
dirty valves
egr valve
coil connection?
tranny solenoid sticking
exhaust pipe restriction
cam sensor
Valve spring?
This list came from the old & new forum, I only came up with the dirty fuel filter.
Where in the world do I start?
BTW Thank-you for solving the notorious power steering groaning. By reading the old forum you gave me the info to get the dealer to fix it.
Wolv

txhouston

I've 95 Plymouth Voyager, 125K miles, V6, 3.0 Engine. I've intermitant problem of starting and stalling while driving. when I start the engine some time it starts immidieatly and some time it doesn't. This time it cranks but does not run.

Some time while driving engine dies. I've to pull over and start the van again.

I have changed spark plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.

Is there any recommendation? I did read previous Q & A. It mentions about electrical harness replacement (20$ from junk yard) and crank shaft position sensor hard wiring etc. Is changing wire harness easy to do? I like to work on car but not a expert. I've done easy stuf like changing sparkplugs, wires etc.

thanks in advance.

tfd1

after a 20 degree night came out to start van and it was dead. Hooked up a jump pack and van started immediatley. hooked up a tester and alt was charging fine. The instrument panel was going haywire. Speedometer shot to 100 all lights going on and off. so I figured the battery was fried, replaced battery and van still dead. any suggestions or answer are appreciated. Frustrated in ohio.

ace4000

I am working on my friends 1993 Plymouth Voyager and is not starting. It had no spark to the distributor so I replaced the coil. It now has no spark to the plugs so pulled off the cap to see if the rotor was spinning and it was not. You can not spin it by hand so I guess the distributor couldn't be broken. Is this a sign of a broken timming belt/chain or something else? I need to hurry up and get this van running for her, she is trying to get rid of it.

Thanks,
Adam

shipo

IIRC, the various four banger engines had a timing belt, as did the 3.0 V6 Mitsubishi mill. The two Chrysler V6 engines use timing chains and are very unlikely to have this kind of problem. So, which engine is in your GFs Voyager?

Best Regards,
Shipo

ace4000

Its the 3.0 V6 and it is 2wd. BTW, she's not my GF, maybe some other day, lol.

Thanks,
Adam

shipo

Sorry, didn't mean to rush things. ;-)

Okay, so you're dealing with the Mitsubishi mill. I've never actually had to work on one before so I don't actually know how difficult the timing belt R&R is. That having been said, by looking at my handy-dandy manual I see that this is a fairly involved job, and one that I wouldn't want to tackle without a guide.

Were I in your shoes, I'd call around to see who has a manual and go and check the procedure out for yourself.

Best Regards,
Shipo

ace4000

But is the timing belt the problem? I mostly work on Volvos and if the timing belt breaks you can spin the rotor. On this van you can't spin the rotor and it dosen't rotate when craking. It dosn't make any sense to me :confuse: . Oh well, hopfully I can figure it out.

tbmoss

We've had a problem for almost a year - have replaced several sensors, rebuilt the transmission - still continues. At times, while driving, it seems like the van turns itself off & then on, quickly - the rpm and speed gauges go down and then up again, the whole van shudders. Sometimes it happens many times in a few minutes, then not again for awhile. A few times it actually turned off and I had to pull over and restart it (which it did, fine). Now we want to get rid of it, but would sure like to find the answer to this problem so we could sell it for a decent price. Otherwise it's good, not yet 90K miles on it. Any suggestions? We're tired of pouring money into it!

shipo

Tough call. From what I can tell from the pictures, the distributor is slaved to the left side cam (front side on a transverse installation). Given that the distributor is driven at the same speed as the cam (i.e. half of engine RPMs), there should be a 45 degree gear cut for the cam/distributor drive, so turning the cam by itself shouldn't be a problem. That said, it would seem logical to me that if a cam is loaded up by one or more valve spring(s), it should be quite difficult to turn via the distributor shaft, especially so if the belt broke in such a way as to bind the cam drive within the belt housing.

At this point, this is all mere speculation until you pull the front of the engine off and have a good look-see. Let us know what you find. Good luck. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

jorger

I need help with the timming marks.How do I line the timming notches, thanks Jorge

ace4000

I am going to check the timing belt tomorow and I have a quick question: Is the 3.0L an interference engine and if so do you think that we have damage it by trying to get it to start if the timming belt is broken?

Thanks,
Adam

shipo

Funny you should mention that, I was just on a web site a few days ago that gave a list of many (most?, all?) engines sold here in the U.S.A. that are interference engines. I'll see if I can find the link in my "History" and I'll report back. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

shipo

Per the following web site at least, the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi mill is NOT an interference engine. :shades:

http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/bmw-525i-articles.html

Best Regards,
Shipo

yeorgos

the p0352 code indicate a coil circuit failure. I found that for my van one of the leads going to the coil pack that is controlled by the pcm was constantly to ground if the battery was connected. This means that the coil never charges and therefore cannot fire the plugs. This is likely due to a capacitor to the coil driver circuit in the pcm failing. I don't recommend removing the resin in the pcm and replacing the cap as this is your vehicle and if you get in an accident because of your fix, you may end up being in a big pickle.
Why it happens is unknown to me, it may be from command starts, as that one wire that goes to your dash from the coil pack seems to be a command start wire. I would recommend going to a junkyard and picking up another coil pack (i got mine from an intrepid), as there may be a failure in that $10 part ($100 from store) even though it passes the resistance test across primary and secondary windings. If you get a new pcm, it is worth replacing.
The likely culprits are: wiring for the coil pack and injectors, as they go across the engine and may melt from heat; Wiring harnness under the battery box as poor maintenance can drip [non-permissible content removed] on the harness and wreak havoc; PCM coil driver circuit just failing;

Some no spark causes can include: camshaft or crankshaft sensors being faulty or inproper installation (always new paper spacer, always); Voltage supply circuit to these sensors or the output wire being faulty; a messed up flexplate!; grounds being poor; asd relay being faulty; connections in general; spark plug wires!! (secondary circuit uses two spark plug wires to complete the circuit) replace those rear plugs, it is hard, but if you remove the cowl and start taking things apart it gets easier, and if you take the intake phelum off you get "great" access to the plugs in the rear for 3.3 and 3.8L and you also can inspect the wiring to the injectors/coil pack. Just get a new metal gasket for intake phelum replacement.

I had p0352 as a code and after tracing wires, replacing the plugs, checking the plug wires, and jiggling all sorts of things, ended up replacing the coil pack and the pcm (hard to find the pcm for my 3.8L 1996 fwd post nov 95 production date). Threw the junkyard pcm in and started right away. Just be thorough befor you do that, because it can be rare and expensive for the pcm. Match that pcm part number exactly, as parameters matter a lot. Never took it to the dealer because my year is pre crazy carkey days, and the van has been running for a month no problem.

Hope people don't have the struggle MANY others have with this as dealers want to throw parts at it and it has a tendancy to reoccur for many online companions. BE THOROUGH WITH THE WIRES IN QUESTION. Chase them right to the pcm.

yeorgos

It could be your connections to the battery, as the battery seemed fine before i assume, and the removal of the battery may have weakened the cable connections. By boosting, you may have encouraged a better connection. Was the old battery frozen? low specific gravity? corroded connections?
Consider replacing the terminal connections/ cables if you do feel or see failing wires

yeorgos

if you are replacing the belt, get them lined up in the first place! 1st cylinder tdc and all the marks line up, try to find a photo in a chilton or haynes. there may be one on the net

arnc

I have a 1993 Plymouth Voyager that has a broken ignition switch. The key will not go into the start position. I bought a new key switch and key set just incase I need both.
Inorder to take out the switch, it says to disable the airbag?
I have not been able to find out how to do this. (I am a electronic tech/machine repairman at a large factory, by trade). and have done some major repairs on my cars, but I just can't find out anywhere how to disable the airbag. There is only one on the steering column. I wonder if there is a fuse that must be removed? There are no key switches that I know of.

Any help would be appreciated. I am dead in the water!

Arn C.

arnc

I went out and bought a service manual for the van and nothing in there on the air bag system.

Still dead in the water....

Arn C.

nautica1

Need help, my voyager's engine stops while I am driving. I have to let it set for about 20-40 minutes and it will start again. It may operate for a couple of months and it occurs again. I have taken it to the mechanic but none of the fixes seems to solve the problem (replaced several sensors and fuel filter 2x)

The problem is so sporadic and never occurs when the mechanic is checking, so I am unable to get it pinpointed. If anyone is having or has had a similar problem please help me, I am at the end of my road with this thing :mad:

jesusisking

I have a 1991 Voyger LE 3.3L that I am having difficulties with. I have changed the SBEC, the TPS, and the coil pack. I also installed a new muffler just a couple weeks back. It seems as when I installed the muffler, the problem occured. The van starts fine, idles fine, and even runs fine until about 15-20 mins drive time. Then it starts bogging down and missing. It starts burning rich and eventually dies. I also have a speed distance senor that is out, has been out for serveal months (4-6 mon). The speed sensor also helps the AIS adjust in idle. Such as, idle picks up when van is traveling. Idle drops and maintains when vehicle is slowing or stopped. Could this be a cause from the catalytic converter. I have run codes, but am not sure if this means that is the porblem with it running or the computer is telling me it is out. The only code that comes up is the speed distance sensor. PLease help. Thank you

fuzzy4

I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager SE, it will not start. Before the vehicle refused to start the following events came to pass:
The van was driven in 3rd gear at speeds of 70-75 MPH, when the driver realized this he put it into drive and proceeded, the oil pressure gauge was way up and didn`t come down until the van had sit over night. The engine did not get hot. The oil level was checked and was fine, if not dark though. The transmission fluid is still looking pretty clean. The van was driven approx. 500 more miles when it was parked and would not start again. It was making a clunking sound under the hood, NOT a knocking, a clunking. It was jerking as well this was just before stopping and parking...the last time it ran. Do you think it is possible this is a fuel pump issue? A major engine bummer, or the trans is shot? By the way it does turn over, just won`t start.
Thanks for any thought on the matter!

upnrunnin

This sounds exactly like my crank sensor issue. I replaced it and the no start / engine shut off problem went away. However - the real issue may be the connector or further up the wiring harness. I cut off the connector and soldered the wires. Been good for a few months now.

1995dogvan

I have a 1995 caravan. I had the same problem but I didn`t do anything about it. It seemed to have gone away. But 2 months ago the van hasn`t started and still isn`t. I believe it`s loose wire on fuel pump or bad pump. The problem for me is I can`t get under my van to work on it. I have serious back problems. Also I have a half tank of fuel and no where to put it.

sherrylangfitt

97 grand caravan dies when put in gear. The transmission shop says the torque converter shouldn't go bad on a Dodge. What else can we try?

mommybev

I have a 92 grand caravan, and up until Jan this yr it ran fine just normal problems. one afternoon after driving over to friends i went out and it would turn over but not catch. it did start after trying 3-4 more times. sounds like timing chain had gone out. but when started i figured different. it has done it several more times. but have to wait until outside temp is higher than 30 degrees. have had to 2 shops and the fuel pump is good and so is the pressure? any suggestions. alt is new battery yr old and the starter is NOT grinding? my friends van did this too but started next day? help.. dont know if i need to sell or keep????

hinesley

my wife's 99 grand caravan just had the same problem. sometimes it would take up to 20 attempts to get the car to start on cold mornings. took the car to a friend's shop who told me it was probably a bad spot on the starter. Replaced the starter and haven't had any problems since.

hope this helps....