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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems



  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Just a guess, but sounds like your ignition switch (where you put your key into the ignition). Have your mechanic take a look at it. Good luck.
  • My 1996 Plymouth Voyager has a bad MAP sensor and I want to know how long will my car run with a bad MAP sensor. It has only been 2 days since I was told that I have a bad map system and my car has not stalled or stopped.
  • danutdlpdanutdlp Posts: 2
    Hi there. I have a 1995 dodge caravan, that has been having an issue lately. When i come to a stop and wait at a red light, the van will be in drive and I will have my foot on the brake. After about 5 seconds of being stopped, the engine starts to surge up and down, and after about 4 times surging up and down it will die. If I stick it in neutral or park the engine will balance out and be fine. It only happens when it is in reverse or drive and I am stopped. While I drive I have no problems. I had a compression check on the cylinders and they are running great. I also had the timing ajusted and the throttle positioning sensor replaced. I also put in a fuel injector cleaner about 200 miles ago and that still didn't change anything. Last thing I did, I replaced the Idle Control motor. It still does it and I don't know what else it can be. Has this happened to anybody else? And what could it be?

  • WOW... sounds like a similar problem that I'm fighting right now in a 2002 Grand Caravan. It's got 105K miles and dies at stop lights, going around corners and sputters when you put it in reverse. In neutral, the car maintains a constant 1000 RPM. Slide it in drive and apply throttle and it sputters (light surge and bucking) and then stall.

    It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagontics and replaced thermostat and manifold pressure sensors.

    It's tempermental and does not act up when he's chasing the problem. So, I'm open to anyone that's solved this mystery. It's been acting up since mid May. Otherwise, it's a solid van.
  • i have a 2002 chrysler voyager that just stalled in the middle of traffic and wont start the engine turns over the light the horn everything works but it just will not crank :confuse: please help.
  • sumsmumsumsmum Posts: 4
    I saw your posting and went out to look at my fuse box, but could not identify an anti theft fuse. Was it labelled?
  • alpineptalpinept Posts: 4
    i have the same started about a year ago. i replaced the BCM and it was not the problem...i got mad at the van one day and with the key left in the start position i "banged on the dash above the control panel.....the dash lights came on and it started working again. The van has done this several times and each time i hit it and it starts working again....until this last time and it no longer will come on. I knew this would happen one day...i only hoped someone would figure the solution before now. i read an old message on this site and someone suggested the park-neutral-safety switch has a bad connection. I think it has something to do with the alarm system.
  • Got a 2003 Chrysler voyager parked it at the airport for 3 days when i returned it would not start! I checked everything out in the parking deck for loose connections etc. I just so happened to of pulled the entire fuse box located on the drivers side fender and the bottom of it was severely corroded. cleaned it up the best I could the van started right up. My buddy works for chrysler and he told me they are having problems with those corroding around 70,000 miles causing the vans to not start and confusing everyone with bogus codes. So I replaced it with a new fuse box cost me 375.00 and have not even had a slight hint of a problem. most garages will try to tell you the Pcm is bad try pulling the entire fuse pannel and check the connections on the bottom first if they are corroded that is your problem
  • pqxraypqxray Posts: 1
    I used to own a 1992 Ford Taurus, and it did the same thing. I had the fuel injection system cleaned, went thru all the Auto Zone/Advanced Auto fuel fixers. It would help for a little while, but nothing solved it. Giving in, I took it to the local Ford dealership, and they said it was the O2 sensor. This little device senses the oxygen/ fuel that is being sprayed thru the injectors. If this is not sensing correctly, it will cause the fluctuations that you may be experiencing. This was relatively inexpensive($100.00or less), if I'm remembering this right. I KNOW it was the O2 sensor in the fuel injection system. I also had a Ford Escort, and the spark plug wires got mixed up, and at times it would do what you're talking about, especially at red lights! Come to think of it, not long after the sparkplug wires were replaced, we had to get the "MODULE" replaced. What this is, I do not know, but your local mechanic should know. GOOD LUCK GUYS, and let me know if any of this helps, cause I have one now that is doing kind of the same thing.
  • The throttle position sensor was bad.... it's a simple rheostat that provides the position of the throttle into the computer. It had a couple of dead spots that were intermittent. Hence, the mechanic could never duplicate the problem. The mechanic mentioned it was "plugged with oil". I'm not sure where it's located but he said that's what made the troubleshooting so difficult.

    It's a $40 buck sensor but on top of about $400 in diagontics. Not to mention the fuel injection flush, thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and that air induction gizzmo.

    I hope this helps some other poor fool.....
  • My van started doing the same thing. It will die in either drive or reverse unless I give it a few RPM's it will not go. Anyone found a fix for this yet?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152

    Please retype your post in normal mixed case letters to that the rest of us can read it and comment.

    Best regards,
  • eshanieshani Posts: 3
    The van keeps cutting out while driving normally ill turn it off and restart it an it turns over on 1 ocassion it did not turn over and i had to wait about 5-10 mins before it would do so ,also the rpm is out of control it goes up but it wont come back down,then theres this thing with the gears not cathing.
    ive been to 2 mechanics one said i need to replace fuel pump and filters also possible electric problems. the second one says i need vehicle speed sensor, cam sensor and ignition coil pack. With all these different possibilities idont know who or what to believe and really cannot afford to replace things that arent damage. If any one has an idea or any helpful information it would be gladly appreciated
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Problems like this are very difficult to diagnose via the internet. A good place to start would be to get the van to your local AutoZone and have them plug in an OBDC-II reader and capture the error codes.

    FWIW, I kind of doubt the fuel pump is an issue, but depending upon the number of miles you have on the van, the filter might be an issue.

    Regarding the electronics, oxygen sensors, cam and vehicle speed sensors do fail over time and you should be prepared to replace these as well (assuming the codes point that way). As for the coil pack, I highly doubt it is an issue either.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
  • eshanieshani Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding . I went to a third mechanic today he first said it could be electrical problems then he attached a little computer looking thing once he finished he told me that its presenting transmission problems a code came up and i was told that i need to replace the computer for the transmission he also said thats the reason why the gears arent catching, the head lights are out and also why the rpm is wack,he also said that its only runing on 2 cylinders instead of 6. So heres the thing the mechanic says once the computer is replaced the van shouldnt have anyore problems, my thing is i just purchased this van 1 week ago with 96,183 miles on it apparently it seems to be a lemon,i spoke to this dealer guy and he wants me to take it to his mechanic to have it fixed and im kind of ify on the matter because i dont want to get stuck with continuos problems, so at this point dont know what to do should i let him fix it, should i trade it for another or should i get my money back and am i entitled to a refund under the new york lemon law.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    First off, I believe that the New York Lemon Law only applies to new vehicles, although I could be wrong on that one.

    Were I in your shoes, I'd take it back to whoever you bought it from and ask them to fix it. If they won't, I might be inclined to talk with a lawyer.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Best regards,
  • I have had similar problems wiht my '9 Voyager, and finally took it to a Mennonite electric motor place who told me I needed a new power train computer, which I ordered. i am expecting to get it back from them today, so if you can hold on a day or so, I can let you know how that works for me. I found a place that sells these more reasonably than the dealership. They were very helpful, lifetime warranty:
    Hold tight if you can.
  • My mechanics say that they part I bought did not fix the problem
  • I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. I turn it over and it starts then immediately shuts off. After the 4th or 5th time when I turn the key it does nothing! The idiot lights come on but nothing else happens when I turn the key, no clicking, no nothing!! The dealership that I have service done at started pulling sensors and found that the circuit board for the instrument cluster was shorting out so they changed it ($676 later!!!) But now my alarm goes of all by itself randomly???!!! Can you help? Any theories, suggestions, etc?? Thank you!! bbdoll62
  • Our van has been misfiring and stalling for the last 2 months. We have hooked it up to the computer 3 times with no codes, even though the check engine light is on. We have replaced plugs and wires and coil pack with no improvement. It runs better on hot days with the air conditioner on. Runs well as long as you are giving it gas, when you slow down or stop it sputters and sometimes dies. Restarts fine. We have the gas tank out and the fuel filter is out but there doesn't appear to be anything wrong that we can see. Any suggestions on where to go next?
  • eshanieshani Posts: 3
    Does any one have an idea how much it cost to fix an electrical problem . I took the van to the mechanic to replace the computer turns out he wasnt able to fix it said it started to smoke and that it has serious electrical problems when i asked him about fixing it he said he does not do electrical problems. Back to square one . Lemon law does not cover electrical problems ,any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
  • parncparnc Posts: 2
    Please help! Followed the instructions on the manual for what to do when the steering wheel is locked. The steering wheel will not move at all when the ignition key is inserted - the key won't even turn, it's as if it's locked. Tried changing the tilt steering column but still not luck. Replaced new batteries 2-months ago. I can turn my headlights on and the interior lights too when the ignition key is in.
  • Hi everyone, have a problem that I hope someone can help with. I have a 2000 Grand Voyager with 109k. When putting the van into drive it dies. It starts right back up, no hesitation or engine issues. When you put it into reverse it backs up just fine, but every time you put it into drive it dies. At one point I was able to limp forward about two blocks. Since it happened late at night, and of course away from home I had no choice but to have it towed home. Transmission was rebuilt @ 72K and I had the transmission fluid changed at 100k. Any info will be appreciated.
  • Hello all, I am new to the forum and I hope I can recieve some valuable info from this site. I have a 2000 Grand Caravan Sport. It has the 3.3L V-6. For aprox. the last month or so it has been having cold start issues. It cranks over for at least 3-5 seconds before it will fire up. When it does fire up it seems to run fine. After the engine is warm it will fire up every time right away. I've had the fuel pump pressure checked, changed the spark plugs and had the coil pack checked out for proper spark. Still having problems. Does anybody have a clue what it could be? Your help possibly may save a marriage. (lol) Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,910
    Do you wait for a couple seconds after turning the key to the "on" position? That will give the van time for the fuel system to fully pressurize. My '98 DGC will take a few cranks to start when very cold, especially if I fail to plug in the engine block/oil pan/transmission heaters for a couple hours prior, if I do not let the fuel system prime.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Thanks for replying . Yes, I do wait to start after turning the key to the on position. I started waiting to start when it began to turn over longer than I thought it should.
  • my husband has put a new computer, crank shaft/ cam sensor ,new coil pack , plugschanged feul filter feul pump every time he does something it runs fine for about three days then it starts stalling again ,anyone got any more ideas to make this car stay running! any info : would be helpful
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