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I have the same problem - it occasionally fails to start, but no problems at all when it does start! I can run it for hundreds and hundreds of miles without incident, but if I shut it off all bets are off as to whether it will restart. I have found that when it does not start, there is no fuel pressure. But, it is difficult to determine what is causing this. I would think that if the pump itself was the issue, it would fail occasionally during use, not just between uses. I am leaning toward an electrical problem, but the circuitry is complicated because it is not just a relay that governs the operation of the pump. I have thus far determined that the controlling relays (fuel pump and ASD relays) are fine, so it is either further down the line or further up it. But, the fuel injectors are receiving signals as though there should be fuel pressure, so I have to conclude that it is most likely an issue closer to the fuel pump.
I am checking this tonight; if there is no power to the wires at the pump connector, I am going to bypass the normal circuitry and just wire a relay directly to the ignition wires so that the pump operates when the ignition is 'on.'
213,000 miles and counting....
It is an HVAC calibration process that is required after a battery disconnect:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl667i.htm
HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC's)
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) DEFINITION/DRB III® DISPLAY
0 PASSED ALL TESTS
1 MODE ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "DEFROST" POSITION
2 MODE ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "PANEL" POSITION
3 BLEND/PASSENGER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "COLD" STOP
4 BLEND/PASSENGER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "HOT" STOP
5 FIN SENSOR "OPEN"
6 FIN SENSOR "SHORTED"
7 ZONE/DRIVER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "COLD" STOP
8 ZONE/DRIVER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "HOT" STOP
9 CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL FAILURE
Note that if a system fails, the intermittent wiper button's light will flash the appropriate number of times, followed by a single flash of the rear wiper button, followed by either the next trouble code or the same code over. Once all codes are read out via flashing, the first code is repeated.
In my case, codes 5 and 6 appeared, indicating fin sensor "open" (5) and "shorted" (6).
PD
As for the ASD relay, it is the first of the larger black relays in the strip, on the right side top if you are looking at the unit from in front of the vehicle. there is a small 10-amp fuse located directly "above" it, and the fuel pump relay is directly below.
At least, this is the lay out on the 1998 Caravan - I am not sure what you have or how it is laid out.
I have a 2003, and the air cleaner is on the passanger side and the trannys on the driver side, so I also had a code PO134 O2 sensor is what it's calling bad... Is that crank sensor on the tranny itself or on the engine?
C.B.
Well I would try cleaning the battery terminals first, then check all the fuses (not to see if they are bad but for a build up of corrosion on them, it will look like a film is on them). if thats doesnt work have it scanned, not code read scan the computer...,.
Well thanks to all of the ideas everyone has given him he believes he finally found the short. He looked at all the areas people suggested, he found a little carrosion cleaned it up but it still wouldn't start. So he pulled the dash once again, messed with some wires while trying to start the van and found the offending wire. There was a pin that had a crack all the way around it, he resoldered it and now no matter how much he messed with the wire it did not die.
Thank you very much for all your help. We have a long trip planned for later this summer and the 6 of us would not fit in my husbands truck for the 16hr drive. You saved my vacation home for the first time in over 10 years!!!!
THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks,
Phil
fildrill@yahoo.com
I have a 2001 grand caravan 3.3L V6.
The van started stalling and check engine light came on. Codes read:
P0106-MAP sensor has a baro reading below an acceptable value.
p1496-5 volt output from regulator does not meet minimum requirement.
garage changed MAP sensor and after a long ride same problem stalling and check engine light. this time a new code came up along with the same two above:
p0122- throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage
Took van back to garage, they said they tested the 5 volt supply it was fine but after an extended warm up tested it again and the readings were low. they said i needed a new PCM. they would charge $805, i found a rebuilt PCM for $275 and replaced myself.
Same thing, after a long drive check engine light comes on and spits out the same codes.
Can anyone help?
thanks in advance
Michael
I erase the codes again, and it will go for a few days with no codes whatsoever but still try to stall or occasionally stall. I have changed the Crank and Cam sensors, Coil pack, Fuel filter, Map Sensor, removed the knock sensor. About a year ago the van died completely and I bought a brand new ECM (ouch) and shelled out more money than the van was worth to get it "programmed for optimal operation" (I think they did nothing at all, as it ran no different when I installed it, and after I got it back from the dealer it runs exactly the same... which is Perfect, except for this mystery stalling, which it did before the original ECM went bad.)
The only thing I can say is it takes approximately 20 minutes of highway driving, and then it just feels like the ignition cuts out. then, if it recovers and doesn't stall, it shifts differently, like it wants to stall again, for the next 10 minutes, which is when I get home and park the van for the night. occasionally it will throw a code, but not usually. This month, it's been the EGR solenoid code, last month it was "no communicartions to BCM". Arrgghh! (no it ISN'T a loose connection. I have checked that too, or at least traced just about everwire in the harness.)
The only thing I can say, is it only happens on the trip home, after 20 minutes, and then I shudder when the van shudders, thinking that this is the day the ECM dies again... I love the old van, but I have looked everywhere for an answer, idea, clue...whatever I can find. I have resolved to just clear the fake codes (god knows these vans are full of erroneous fault codes), clean it up and throw it on craigslist for whatever I can get (maybe $1K?) and be done with it.
Oh, and I've fixed the intermittent/ cracked grounds in the instrument cluster, the ghost wipers, the faulty alarm no start red wire problem, 2 clocksprings (1 under warranty), the corroded fuse box connectors (which I check every year), well... lets just say I've pretty much done everything but sell it. (LOL!)
Things I have never tried:
Flexplate (but the Crank and Cam signals alway stay in sync, and there are no unusual noises)
Fuel pump. (Which was changed long ago, for the sending unit "ding ding" problems)
Transmission. (never had a minute's trouble, shifts normally, does not overheat, correct ATF+4 fluid always, etc..)
This is the only thread ever, anywhere that I have found people with so very similar issues. So... what should I do next? (and getting another Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country is not out of the question, since I have all these perfectly good spare parts, why not?!)
I have so much money invested I can not get rid of this stupid thing:) I will never have another Dodge car,van,truck:)
Good luck.
@ DAWZIN:here's your fix! remove the instrument cluster. Once removed, the entire circuit board on the back is made of flexible mylar. there are points (pins) that are soldered to this circuit. look closely at them, you will see more than one that has fractured solder connections. Re-solder these, or just resolder them all and the problem will go away. If you are not knowledgable about soldering static sensitive devices and practices, find someone who is. These pins connecto to other components in the cluster that can be damaged by excessive heat or static electricity. So, be careful with what you do. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of your Cluster or I could point it out in seconds, but it should be easy to find, or just re-solder/re-work the whole ribbon circuit and you'll be good to go indefinitely. While the cluster is out, you can also replace those pesky instrumane panel lights, maybe spend a few bucks and just replace them or they'll go bad a week later (murphy's law). Good luck.
also no code on OBD test
Over the past couple of days, I would be driving down the road, and suddenly the van would think it had no fuel - fuel gauge drops to empty, fuel light comes on, and no fuel is going to the engine - then it picks up again. As my driving progresses, it happens with more frequency until I have to stop for a few minutes and let it rest - then it picks up again. This was Friday afternoon; Saturday morning, worked fine until the evening - and the same thing.
Today, it happened again - except now, the fuel pump is DEAD. I checked by turning the key and not hearing the characteristic sound of the fuel pump engaging briefly. Likewise, the fuel gauge is empty.
One point of note - I *just* had the fuel pump replaced back in May.
Any ideas on what's going on? Are there other symptoms to check for?
Well, OK, it's either that or I have Firestone do it: $1300 for the wiring harness ALONE, plus the cost of labor (involves removing the ENTIRE dashboard to get it all).
ebenson@hondaofsalem.com 503-581-7785
Thanks,
Ranzack
If you are mechanically inclined, then one at a time replace the Map, Cam, Crank sensors. After each installment clear the Adaptive Learn out of the engine computer. Use OEM parts, not after market. You can always return them if they are not the problem.
Our alternator was going out on our van at the same time as our problems began so it was throwing weird codes. Be careful of dealerships, they have a tendancy to go for the most expensive part first. Like the main engine computer at several hundreds of dollars. Then they work down from there.
Collectively between my wife and I we have 10years at a Chrysler Dealership Service department. We know there tricks and yes the TV documentary was right.