Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems



  • But is the timing belt the problem? I mostly work on Volvos and if the timing belt breaks you can spin the rotor. On this van you can't spin the rotor and it dosen't rotate when craking. It dosn't make any sense to me :confuse: . Oh well, hopfully I can figure it out.
  • tbmosstbmoss Posts: 1
    We've had a problem for almost a year - have replaced several sensors, rebuilt the transmission - still continues. At times, while driving, it seems like the van turns itself off & then on, quickly - the rpm and speed gauges go down and then up again, the whole van shudders. Sometimes it happens many times in a few minutes, then not again for awhile. A few times it actually turned off and I had to pull over and restart it (which it did, fine). Now we want to get rid of it, but would sure like to find the answer to this problem so we could sell it for a decent price. Otherwise it's good, not yet 90K miles on it. Any suggestions? We're tired of pouring money into it!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Tough call. From what I can tell from the pictures, the distributor is slaved to the left side cam (front side on a transverse installation). Given that the distributor is driven at the same speed as the cam (i.e. half of engine RPMs), there should be a 45 degree gear cut for the cam/distributor drive, so turning the cam by itself shouldn't be a problem. That said, it would seem logical to me that if a cam is loaded up by one or more valve spring(s), it should be quite difficult to turn via the distributor shaft, especially so if the belt broke in such a way as to bind the cam drive within the belt housing.

    At this point, this is all mere speculation until you pull the front of the engine off and have a good look-see. Let us know what you find. Good luck. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • jorgerjorger Posts: 6
    I need help with the timming marks.How do I line the timming notches, thanks Jorge
  • I am going to check the timing belt tomorow and I have a quick question: Is the 3.0L an interference engine and if so do you think that we have damage it by trying to get it to start if the timming belt is broken?

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Funny you should mention that, I was just on a web site a few days ago that gave a list of many (most?, all?) engines sold here in the U.S.A. that are interference engines. I'll see if I can find the link in my "History" and I'll report back. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Per the following web site at least, the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi mill is NOT an interference engine. :shades:

    Best Regards,
  • the p0352 code indicate a coil circuit failure. I found that for my van one of the leads going to the coil pack that is controlled by the pcm was constantly to ground if the battery was connected. This means that the coil never charges and therefore cannot fire the plugs. This is likely due to a capacitor to the coil driver circuit in the pcm failing. I don't recommend removing the resin in the pcm and replacing the cap as this is your vehicle and if you get in an accident because of your fix, you may end up being in a big pickle.
    Why it happens is unknown to me, it may be from command starts, as that one wire that goes to your dash from the coil pack seems to be a command start wire. I would recommend going to a junkyard and picking up another coil pack (i got mine from an intrepid), as there may be a failure in that $10 part ($100 from store) even though it passes the resistance test across primary and secondary windings. If you get a new pcm, it is worth replacing.
    The likely culprits are: wiring for the coil pack and injectors, as they go across the engine and may melt from heat; Wiring harnness under the battery box as poor maintenance can drip [non-permissible content removed] on the harness and wreak havoc; PCM coil driver circuit just failing;

    Some no spark causes can include: camshaft or crankshaft sensors being faulty or inproper installation (always new paper spacer, always); Voltage supply circuit to these sensors or the output wire being faulty; a messed up flexplate!; grounds being poor; asd relay being faulty; connections in general; spark plug wires!! (secondary circuit uses two spark plug wires to complete the circuit) replace those rear plugs, it is hard, but if you remove the cowl and start taking things apart it gets easier, and if you take the intake phelum off you get "great" access to the plugs in the rear for 3.3 and 3.8L and you also can inspect the wiring to the injectors/coil pack. Just get a new metal gasket for intake phelum replacement.

    I had p0352 as a code and after tracing wires, replacing the plugs, checking the plug wires, and jiggling all sorts of things, ended up replacing the coil pack and the pcm (hard to find the pcm for my 3.8L 1996 fwd post nov 95 production date). Threw the junkyard pcm in and started right away. Just be thorough befor you do that, because it can be rare and expensive for the pcm. Match that pcm part number exactly, as parameters matter a lot. Never took it to the dealer because my year is pre crazy carkey days, and the van has been running for a month no problem.

    Hope people don't have the struggle MANY others have with this as dealers want to throw parts at it and it has a tendancy to reoccur for many online companions. BE THOROUGH WITH THE WIRES IN QUESTION. Chase them right to the pcm.
  • It could be your connections to the battery, as the battery seemed fine before i assume, and the removal of the battery may have weakened the cable connections. By boosting, you may have encouraged a better connection. Was the old battery frozen? low specific gravity? corroded connections?
    Consider replacing the terminal connections/ cables if you do feel or see failing wires
  • if you are replacing the belt, get them lined up in the first place! 1st cylinder tdc and all the marks line up, try to find a photo in a chilton or haynes. there may be one on the net
  • arncarnc Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Plymouth Voyager that has a broken ignition switch. The key will not go into the start position. I bought a new key switch and key set just incase I need both.
    Inorder to take out the switch, it says to disable the airbag?
    I have not been able to find out how to do this. (I am a electronic tech/machine repairman at a large factory, by trade). and have done some major repairs on my cars, but I just can't find out anywhere how to disable the airbag. There is only one on the steering column. I wonder if there is a fuse that must be removed? There are no key switches that I know of.

    Any help would be appreciated. I am dead in the water!

    Arn C.
  • arncarnc Posts: 2
    I went out and bought a service manual for the van and nothing in there on the air bag system.

    Still dead in the water....

    Arn C.
  • nautica1nautica1 Posts: 1
    Need help, my voyager's engine stops while I am driving. I have to let it set for about 20-40 minutes and it will start again. It may operate for a couple of months and it occurs again. I have taken it to the mechanic but none of the fixes seems to solve the problem (replaced several sensors and fuel filter 2x)

    The problem is so sporadic and never occurs when the mechanic is checking, so I am unable to get it pinpointed. If anyone is having or has had a similar problem please help me, I am at the end of my road with this thing :mad:
  • I have a 1991 Voyger LE 3.3L that I am having difficulties with. I have changed the SBEC, the TPS, and the coil pack. I also installed a new muffler just a couple weeks back. It seems as when I installed the muffler, the problem occured. The van starts fine, idles fine, and even runs fine until about 15-20 mins drive time. Then it starts bogging down and missing. It starts burning rich and eventually dies. I also have a speed distance senor that is out, has been out for serveal months (4-6 mon). The speed sensor also helps the AIS adjust in idle. Such as, idle picks up when van is traveling. Idle drops and maintains when vehicle is slowing or stopped. Could this be a cause from the catalytic converter. I have run codes, but am not sure if this means that is the porblem with it running or the computer is telling me it is out. The only code that comes up is the speed distance sensor. PLease help. Thank you
  • fuzzy4fuzzy4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager SE, it will not start. Before the vehicle refused to start the following events came to pass:
    The van was driven in 3rd gear at speeds of 70-75 MPH, when the driver realized this he put it into drive and proceeded, the oil pressure gauge was way up and didn`t come down until the van had sit over night. The engine did not get hot. The oil level was checked and was fine, if not dark though. The transmission fluid is still looking pretty clean. The van was driven approx. 500 more miles when it was parked and would not start again. It was making a clunking sound under the hood, NOT a knocking, a clunking. It was jerking as well this was just before stopping and parking...the last time it ran. Do you think it is possible this is a fuel pump issue? A major engine bummer, or the trans is shot? By the way it does turn over, just won`t start.
    Thanks for any thought on the matter!
  • This sounds exactly like my crank sensor issue. I replaced it and the no start / engine shut off problem went away. However - the real issue may be the connector or further up the wiring harness. I cut off the connector and soldered the wires. Been good for a few months now.
  • I have a 1995 caravan. I had the same problem but I didn`t do anything about it. It seemed to have gone away. But 2 months ago the van hasn`t started and still isn`t. I believe it`s loose wire on fuel pump or bad pump. The problem for me is I can`t get under my van to work on it. I have serious back problems. Also I have a half tank of fuel and no where to put it.
  • 97 grand caravan dies when put in gear. The transmission shop says the torque converter shouldn't go bad on a Dodge. What else can we try?
  • mommybevmommybev Posts: 1
    I have a 92 grand caravan, and up until Jan this yr it ran fine just normal problems. one afternoon after driving over to friends i went out and it would turn over but not catch. it did start after trying 3-4 more times. sounds like timing chain had gone out. but when started i figured different. it has done it several more times. but have to wait until outside temp is higher than 30 degrees. have had to 2 shops and the fuel pump is good and so is the pressure? any suggestions. alt is new battery yr old and the starter is NOT grinding? my friends van did this too but started next day? help.. dont know if i need to sell or keep????
  • hinesleyhinesley Posts: 1
    my wife's 99 grand caravan just had the same problem. sometimes it would take up to 20 attempts to get the car to start on cold mornings. took the car to a friend's shop who told me it was probably a bad spot on the starter. Replaced the starter and haven't had any problems since.

    hope this helps....
  • when we start out from a stop {red light, stop sign etc...}, or highway speed the van will hesitate if we push on the accelerator more the problem goes away, almost seems like it wants to stall, any ideas would be great as to what is going on. and it is a 2003 model year, with a 4 banger
  • rpolchinrpolchin Posts: 2
    I have a '93 Voyager. Recently the car started stalling while idling in traffic. I originally thought I had run out of gas, but that wasn't the case. I changed the fuel filter , but that didn't solve the problem. The car won't restart after it stalls, unless I either wait awhile. I've found that if I remove the key from the ignition, and then go back in to re-start, it will start right away. The stalling starts after the car is well warmed up.

    Separately, or maybe not, my transmission won't work in Drive anymore, but I can get it to run in Rev or in the 1 position only. In First only, it doesn't shift to 2 and 3, so it doesn't appear to be a position problem.

    Any ideas?

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    Not sure about the transmission, but the stalling could be related to a faulty mass airflow sensor. I had a problem similar to this in a '96 Subaru. It would never record a code when this happened (though the CEL would illuminate), but I changed the MAS on a hunch and never experienced a stall again.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Our family has a '91 Plymouth Voyager (3.0 engine with 120,000 miles) that runs perfectly but has begun to be very difficult to start.

    We've had three mechanics look at it ~ We've replaced the computer, most sensors, and the fuel pump (shows 60 pounds of pressure).

    The electronic tester says the problem is a code 26, which no one seems to know the meaning of.

    We really love this old van and want to get the problem worked out ~ Does anyone out there have any ideas or advice?

    e-mail: dona at
  • johnc21johnc21 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem ... did you find out what the issue is/was? thanks, john c.
  • I didn't get that far. I think I overfilled the transmission fluid which caused the 2nd and 3rd gears to fail. I'm not going to bother getting the transmission fixed on such an old car. I changed the filter and replaced the fluid to the right level, but to no avail. My next choice would have been to check the speed sensor.

    You can get the trouble codes by turning your key in the ignition 3 times. so off-on-off-on off on (without turning the car over) the engine light will blink. a sequence of blinks, a pause then miore blinks. so 3 blinks followed by 2 blinks is code 32.
  • This may be a little late to help you, but hopefully it can help someone. My van was stalling when I'd come to a stop. Thought I'd gotten bad gas. Mechanic thought so as well since the plugs smelled rancid and they had tried replacing a number of sensors. Had recently replaced the Oxygen Sensor...check engine light had been coming on. Now however, the light was not coming on and no codes were showing up in the computer according to the mechanic so they chose to replace the fuel pump, filters and scrub the tank....$700 later and the van was still dying. They replaced the oxygen sensor and it is no longer dying, but is still running a little rough.
  • My 1990 Voyager with a 3.3 litre motor has an intermittant starting problem. Occasionally it will not start (turns over fine), if you squirt starting fluid in the intake, it starts for as long as the fluid lasts, then dies. If you leave it for a few hours, it will then start up fine. I had it towed to a shop and they could not find a thing wrong as it would not act up there (go figure). Has anyone had this problem?
  • I have a 1997 dodge caravan sport.It will start but it's like someone is stealing it.It runs for a couple of sec. then shuts down. It's been in several shops and had work done and sensors put in but every couple of weeks this happens.Some times it's hours and this time it's been 5
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Have you had the fuel pump and fuel filter looked at?
Sign In or Register to comment.